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LrBRARY 

UNIVERSITY OF 
CALIFORNIA 

SAN DIEGO 



'N 



presented to the 
UNIVERSITY LIBRARY 
UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA 
SAN DIEGO 

by 



Douglas Warren 




/^ /:/ ^co^^^^t^ 



General U. S. Grant's 

TOUR 

Around the World, 



EMURACING HIS 



Speeches, Receptions, and Deschiption 
OF HIS Travels. 



WITH A 



BIOGRAPHICAL SKETCH OF HIS LIFE 



EDITED BY 



L. T. REM LAP. 



CHICAGO: 
W. M. FARRAR 

1870. 



COPTBIQHTBD. 

J. FAIRBANKS & CO. 

1879. 



PKINTEU ii\ 

CUSHING, THOMAS * CO. 

CHICAGO. 



CONTENTS. 



CHAPTER I. 

LIFE OF GENERAL U. S. GRANT. 

His Birth — His Father — Early Education at West Point — In Mex- 
ico — Garrison Life — Marriage — A. Farmer — April 12, 18G1 — A Colo- 
nel — Battle of Belmont — Forts Henry and Donaldson — Sliiloh — At Vicks- 
burg — Witli the Army of the Potomac — Surrender of Lee — Farewell 
Address — Disbandment of the Army — Secretary of War ad interim — 
Nomination for President — Inaugural — A Second Term — His achieve- 
ments, - .-.---.._ -9 

CHAPTER II. 

OFF FOR EUROPE. 

Departure from Philadelphia — Rousing Demonstration — On the 
Ocean — Arrival at Queenstown — Liverpool — Grand Reception — A Round 
of Pleasure — At the Docks — Mayor's Reception and Ball, . 17 

CHAPTER III. 

GENERAL GRANT IN LONDON. 

His Arrival — Prince of Wales— Grand Banquet — Duke of Welling- 
ton — Waterloo Chamber — At Westminster Abbey — Reception at the 
American Legation — Grand Ball — Buckingham Palace — Freedom of the 
City of London— Magnificent Reception — Its Significance — Gold Casket 
— Distinguished Guests — Marquis of Lome, - - - - 27 

CHAPTER IV. 

GRANT IN ENGLAND. 

A Letter to D. W. Childs— Dining with the Prince of Wales— At 
Minister Pierrepont's— Royal Opera House— Banquet by Trinity House- 
Speech by the Prince of Wales— Address by Earl Carnarvon— General 



4 CONTENTS. 

Grant's Reply — Reception by Queen Victoria — State Dinner — Ladies' 
Toilets — State Concert — Grand Banquet Tendered by the City of Liver- 
pool — Addresses — General Badeau — United Service Club — American 
Legation, 43 

CHAPTER V. 

ON THE CONTINENT. 

At Brussels — Reception and Dinner by King Leopold — At Co- 
logne — Visiting Churches and the Cathedral — At Frankfort — Great 
Reception — A Grand Ball — At Hamburg — At Lucerne — Berne — 
Geneva — Laying a Corner Stone — At Pallanza — At Copenhagen — 
Ulysses — A Happy Speech, -.--.--56 

CHAPTER VL 

RETURN TO GREAT BRITAIN. 

Presented with the Freedom of Edinburgh — Enthusiastic Recep- 
tion — Lord Provost's Speech — Grant's Reply — Tay Bridge — Its De- 
scription — City of Wick — At Glasgow — The Finest and Most Enthu- 
Biastic Reception — Speech of Mr. Anderson — Grant's Long Speech — 
Remarkable Reception at Newcastle — At Northumberland — Gateshead 

— At Sheffield — At Birmingham — Speeches, ... 61 

CHAPTER VII. 

GENERAL GRANT IN PARIS. 

Adieu to England — Bologne — At Paris — Enthusiastic Reception 

— Palace d' Elysee — Grand Banquet by Resident Americans — Recep- 
ion by Minister Noyes — Menu — Brilliant Assemblage — Banquet at 
Marshal McMahon's — Address — Grant's Reply — A Comparison — 
Mrs. Mackay's Reception — Extravagance of Display — Dinner at Mrs. 
Sickles' — At Mr. Ilarjes, -...--.74 

CHAPTER VIII. 

THROUGH FRANCE — ITALY. 

At Lyons — Marseilles — Genoa — Reception on Board the Van- 
dalia — At Naples — Mt. Vesuvius — " House of Refuge " — Ruins of 
Pompeii — Special Excavation — Interesting Relics — Royal Palace — At 



CONTENTS. 



Palermo — Christmas Dinner — Mtnu — How He Traveled — Land of 
Many Civilizations — Brigandage — At Malta — Duke of Edinburgh — 
Palace San Antonio — Adieu, - - - - . - - 89 



CHAPTER IX. 

IN EGYPT AND THE LOTUS LAND. 

A Severe Storm — At Alexandria — Oriental Etiquette — The Pacha 

— Reception — Brilliant Entertainment at Vice-Consul Salvage — Henry 
M. Stanley — The Khedive calls on General Grant— A Host's Thoughtful- 
ness — At Siout — The Donkey Ride — Inspecting the Town — Speech 
of the Pacha's Son — At Girgel to Ruined City of Abydos — God Osiris 

— Excavations — At Thebes — City of a Hundred Gates — Its Magnifi- 
cent Ruins — The Great Temple of Karnak — At Keneh — At Assowan 

— Philce — The First Cataract — The Return — At Memphis — Sacred 
Bulls at Kaser-el-Nousa, -.---..- 96 

CHAPTER X. 

TURKEY AND THE HOLY LAND. 

At Jaffa — Ruins of Gezer — David and Goliah — At Jerusalem — 
Bishops and Patriarchs — Stroll on the Via Dolorosa — Ruins and Relics 

— Dives — Calvary — Brook Kedron — Valley of Jehoshaphat — Mount 
of Olives — Bethany — At Damascus — At Athens — Grand Entertain- 
ment by the King at Naples — At Rome — His Clerical Visitor — At 
Turin — Return to the French Capital — At the Exposition — A Game of 
Polo — Ball at Mr. Healy's — At the Hague — Great Demonstration at 
Rotterdam — At Amsterdam — Enthusiastic Welcome — The Dutch Ex- 
cited, ------..-.- 110 

CHAPTER XI. 

GRANT IN GERMANY, NORWAY, SWEDEN, RUSSIA AND AUSTRIA. 

General Grant at Berlin — An Evening Stroll — Prince Bismarck — 
Great Peace Congress — Attempt to Assassinate the Emperor — Bismarck 
Calls on Mrs. Grant — Reception at Minister Taj^lor's — Crown Prince — 
Military Manoeuvers — Dining with Bismarck — Bottle of Schnapps — 
At Gothenburg — Immense Crowd — At Christiana — King Oscar II. — 
Turning out era masse at Stockholm — Grand Banquet — At St. Peters- 



6 ' CONTENTS. 

burgh — Prince Gortschakoff — With theCzar — At the Versailles of St. 
Petersburgh — Grand Duke Alexis — At Moscow — At Warsaw — Vi- 
enna — Grand Reception — At Zurich, . - . . 119 

CHAPTER XII. 

GENERAL GRANT IX SPAIN AND PORTUGAL.. 

Again at Paris — Reception by Minister Noyes — In Spain — Span- 
ish Life and Character — Alfonso XII. — -San Sebastian — Grand Annual 
Military Review at Victoria — Palace of Ayuntamiento — At Madrid — At- 
tempt on Alfonzo's Life — The Shot Seen by General Grant — Escape — 
Congratulations — At Lisbon — Dining with King Luis — A Cordial Re- 
ception — At Seville — Duke de Montpensier — At Cadiz — Enthusias- 
tic Reception — At Gibraltar — Old Friends — Lord Napier — Grand 
Review — At Pau — Return to Paris, . - . - , 135 

CHAPTER XIII. 

GENERAL GRANT IN IRELAND. 

Irish Interest — A Citizen of Dublin — Grand Ovation — Long- 
Speech from General Grant — Good Times Coming — Trinity College — 
Insultfrom Cork — Grant's Friendship Toward Catholics — Unparalleled 
Reception at Derry — Denouncing the Insult of Corkonians — Curiosi- 
ties of Ulster — Old Soldiers — At Belfast — Imposing and Extraordi- 
nary Reception — Stopping the Linen Mills — At the Ship Yards — At 
Kingston — Tho Irish Welcome Compared to oihers, - - 146 

CHAPTER XIV. 

GENERAL GRANT IN INDIA. 

Again in London — Paris — Marseilles — Delightful Trip Through 
the Mediteranean — Description of Trip — At Alexandria — A Railroad 
Ride in Egypt — At Suez — On the Red Sea — At Aden — Bombay — 
Enthusiastic Reception — Holy Place of the Hindoos — A Parsee Mer- 
chant — The Ryculla Club — Flagship Eurydius — Elcphanta Caves — 
Reception at the Government House — Singular Custom — Caste — Hat- 
red of Races — A Farewell — AtTatulpur — At Allahabad — Agra — 
The Maharajah of Jeypore — At Amber — A Native City Under Native 
Rule — Gas in India — Elephant Ride — The Temple — A Kid Sacrificed 
at the Palace — Naufch Dancing Girls — Playing Billiards — A Royal 
Photograph, • - 161 



CONTENTS. ^ 

CHAPTER XV. 

STILL IN INDIA. 

At Burtpoor — A Princely Reception — Tiittehpoor Sikva — Akbar — 
Interesting Ruins — At Benares — Sacred City — At the Ganges '' Holy 
Kasi" — A City of Priests — Fourteen Hundred and Fifty Temples — A 
Sacred Ruler — Burning the Body — At Delhi — Military Pieception — 
Its Splendor — The Palace of the Grand Mogul — The Kutah Tower — 
At Calcutta — Lord Lytton's Speech — Continuous Round of Enjoyment 
, — At Rangoon, Burmah — The Philadelphia of Burmah — Commercial 
Advantages — Opening for American Merchants, - - 186 



CHAPTER XVI. 

GENERAL GRANT IN SIAM. 

At Singapore — Interesting Letter from the King of Siam — Bang- 
kok — Another Letter — Embarking — Reception at the King's Pal- 
ace — The ex-Regent — An Aged Statesman — Mr. Borie and the 
King — Royal Proclamation — A Second King — His Income — A Polit- 
ical Influence — First King of Siam — Grand Palace — Elegant Furnish- 
ing — An Audience with the King — The King Returns the Visit — An 
Interesting Conversation — Correspondence Promised — A State Dinner 
— Who Were There — The Surroundings — Icing's Speech — General 
Grant's Reply — A Delightful Week, - ■ - - - - 200 



CHAPTER XVII. 

GENERAL GRANT IN CHINA. 

At Saigon — The Government House — Hong Kong — At Canton — 
Its Situation — The Viceroy — Special Honors — Bulletin — Chairs of 
Rank — Two Hundred Thousand People — Members of Court — The En- 
tertainment — Dinner at Consul-General Lincoln's — Greatest Demon- 
stration of Trip — At Macao — The Grotto of Camocns — Reception at 
Hong Kong — An Address — General Grant's Reply — Pai-ting Salutes 

— At Swatow — Chinese Governor — Amoy — A Sti-oll Through the 
Town — Letters from the King of Siam and King of the Sandwich 
Islands and the Viceroy of Canton — General Grant's Replies — At 
Shanghai — Unexpected Greetings — An Address — Reply — At Tientsin 

— The Viceroy — Extraordinary Conversation at Pekin — Reception by 



8 CONTEXTS. 

tlie Prince Imperial — Confidential Proposition —Flattering Reception 

— Unusual Demonstration by the Prince — Return to Tientsin — The 
Viceroy's Friendly Visits — Pleasure of General Grant — Farewell to 
China, 220 

CHAPTER XVIII. 

GENERAL GRANT IN JAPAN. 

At Nagasaki — Banqueted by Citizens — The Herald' s Graphic De- 
scription — Address of Merchants — Fish and Soup — Arrival at Tokio 

— Palace of Enriokwan — Its Gardens — The Bazaars — A Ncstive Dance 

— Reception at the College of Engineering — At Yokohama — Grand 
Reception — Address of Welcome — Feast of Lanterns — A Brilliant 
Spectacle — Reception by the Emperor — His Palace — Japanese Eti- 
quette — Address of the Emperor and Empress — In the Mountains — 
At the Old Capital — Interesting tcte a tete with the Emperor — Fare- 
well to Japan — Sailing of the Tokio, . . . - - 256 

CHAPTER XIX. 

GENERAL GRANT'S RETURN. 

Embarking From Tokio — Date of Arrival — Review of Tour — 
Preparation for His Reception — The Great Excursion — Not Flattering 
to the American People — Out of the Presidential Race — Admiral Am- 
men — Hon. E. B. Washburn — Murat Halstead — His Positive Accept- 
ance of the Presidency of the Nicaragua Ship Canal Company — Letter 
to Admiral Ammen — Reception Programme at San Francisco — On the 
Watch — Magnificent Ovation Expected — The "Sand Lot" Braggart 

— Threat to Hang Grant in Effigy — Intense Excitement — Probable 
Reeult, 312 

CHAPTER XX. 

ARRIVAL AT SAN FRANCISCO. 

Preparation for His Reception — Arrival — Immense Cro.wds — Pro- 
cession — Addresses — California Theatre — Municipal Reception — At Pro- 
duce Exchange — At Oakland — Veterans' Reception — At San Jose — 
Santa Clara — In the Yoscmitc — At Portland, Oregon — At Salem — Re- 
turn to San Frnncisco — Munificent Reception at Senator Sharon's— At 
S;icramcrito — In Nevada — Rcucjitions En Route to Galena — At Chicago 

— Unpandlflpil Kniliurfiasra — Relnrii to Galena — Finale, 



CHAPTER I. 



LIFE OF ULYSSES S. GRANT. 

Ulysses Simpson Grant was born April 23, 1822, 
at Point Pleasant, Clermont county, Ohio, a small town 
on the Ohio river, twenty-five miles above Cincinnati. 
The Grants are of Scotch descent, and the motto of their 
clan in Aberdeenshire was, " Stand fast, stand firm, stand 
sure." Grant inherits from many of his ancestors a love 
for freedom and a determination to fight for its cause. In 
1799, his grandfather, a Pennsylvania farmer, joined the 
great tide of emigration moving to the Northwest Terri- 
tory. 

His great-grandfather, Captain Noah Grant, of Wind- 
sor, Connecticut, and his brother, Lieutenant Solomon 
Grant, were soldiers in the old French war, and were both 
killed in battle in 1756. 

His grandfather, also Noah Grant, of Windsor, hurried 
from his fields at the first conflict of the Revolution, and 
appeared as a lieutenant on Lexington Common on the 
morning of the memorable 19th of April, when the em- 
battled farmers " fired the shot heard round the world." 

His father, Jesse R. Grant, was born in Westmoreland 
county, Pa., in 1794. Was apprenticed to the tanner's 
trade at the early age of eleven years. Removed to May- 
ville, Kentucky, thence to Point Pleasant, Ohio, where he 
followed the business of a tanner. In 1869 he was appointed 
postmaster at Covington, Kentucky, by President Grant, 
and died in 1874. 



lO GENERAL U. S. GRANT S 

Like other great men, Grant had an excellent mother 
— a pious woman, cheerful, unambitious of worldly dis- 
play, watchful of her children, and " looking well to the 
ways of her household." Her husband pays her the high- 
est tribute which can be paid to any wife and mother in 
saying, " Her steadiness, firmness and strength of character 
have been the stay of the family through life." 

Love of their children has ever been a marked trait 
in the Grant family. 

He was originally christened Hiram Ulysses ; his grand- 
father giving the name of Hiram ; his grandmother, who 
was a great student of history, giving the name of Ulj'sses, 
whose character had strongly attracted her admiration. 
The member of congress who appointed Grant to his ca- 
detship at West Point when a boy of seventeen, by acci- 
dent changed his name, in filling his appointment, to U. S. 
Grant. Grant repeatedly endeavored to have the mistake 
corrected at West Point, and at the war department at 
Washington; but this was one of the few things in which 
he failed; his applications were never complied with. As 
if fate foresaw the patriotic duty, the filial love, the tran- 
scendant services he was one day to render his country, 
the government seemed to insist, when adopting him 
among her military children, on renaming him, and giving 
to him her own initials, "U. S.," which he has ever since 
borne. 

Grant was neither a precocious nor a stupid child ; he 
was a well-behaved, dutiful boy. He attended the public 
school in the village; he learned well, but was no prodigy. 

He never liked his father's business of tanning. It was 
disagreeable; and he early determined not to follow it. He 
wanted an education. He said he would be a farmer, or 
trade down the river; but a tanner he would not be. 

His father, with limited means, did not feel that, in jus- 



TOUR AROUND THE WORLD. U 

tice to himself and his other children, he could afford the 
money to send him to college. 

He applied, with the boy's assent, for a vacant cadet- 
ship at West Point. The appointment was made by Hon, 
T. L. Hamer, the member of congress from the district. 

It is remarkable that, without any preparatory study, 
he passed the rigid examination which all cadets are 
obliged to undergo. 

But Grant received at West Point the best education a. 
man can receive, namely, that which fits him for his work 
in life. He was subjected to a course of physical training 
which invigorated his body. He was taught fencino-^^ 
drawing, riding, dancing; he was taught science, mathe- 
matics, the modern languages, constitutional and interna- 
tional law, and engineering. 

Young Grant appreciated and improved all the oppor- 
tunities which were offered to him. He gave those years 
diligently to self-improvement in the widest sense. He 
graduated with a good rank in his class; and, what was 
better, without vices which enfeebled his body, or mental 
habits which depraved his mind. 

In July, 1843, he entered the United States army as a 
brevet second lieutenant in the fourth infantry. Ordered 
to the frontier of Missouri among the Indians, he remained 
nearly two years, when, in 1S45, he was ordered to Corpus 
Christi, Texas, where United States troops were gathering 
under command of General Taylor. From the first attack 
on Fort Brown, opposite Matamoras, Grant was in every 
battle in the Mexican war except Buena Vista — fourteen 
in all — and conducted himself with distinguished bravery, 
which elicited special mention from his superiors in com- 
mand. In 1847 ^^ ^^^ appointed brevet captain, and in 
1853 to a full captaincy. 

At the close of the war, Captain Grant returned to the 
United States, and was subsequently stationed on the Cana*. 



12 GENERAL U. S. GRANT'S 

dian frontier, in California and in Oregon. But garrison 
life, in that lonely region, offered no opportunities of use- 
fulness, and he determined to resign his commission, which 
he did in July, 1854. He moved to St. Louis, and there 
married Miss Julia Dent, daughter of a merchant of that 
city. Taking a small farm in the suburbs of St. Louis, he 
labored in the life of a farmer. In 1859 he moved to Ga- 
lena, Illinois, entered in business, and was residing there on 
the I2th of April, 1861. The "first shot" at Fort Sumter 
moved Grant to the utmost depths of his being. He said 
to a friend : " The government has educated me for the 
army. What I am, I owe to my country. I have served 
her through one war, and, live or die, will serve her 
through this." Recruiting a company at Galena, he was 
at once made adjutant-general of the State; on the 15th of 
June, 1861, was commissioned colonel of the Twenty-first 
Illinois Volunteers, stationed at Mexico, Missouri; made 
brigadier-general May 17, 1861, and on ist September or- 
dered to Cairo, and at once took possession of Paducah, 
Kentucky; 7th of November, fighting the battle of Bel- 
mont, with 2,850 men, against 7,000 Confederates — Fed- 
eral loss, 400; Rebel, 875. On the 2d of February he, 
with the aid of the navy, under Commodore Foote, cap- 
tured Fort Henry, on the Tennessee river. On February 
15th, captured Fort Donaldson, on the Cumberland river, 
the key to Nashville, Tennessee, with 65 guns, 17,600 
small arms, nearly 15,000 soldiers, with horses, mules and 
army supplies; his loss was about 2,000 men. Grant was 
immediately nominated and confirmed as a major-general. 
By this victory the Cumberland and Tennessee rivers were 
opened, Nashville fell, Columbus was abandoned, Bowl- 
ing Green evacuated, and the States of Kentucky and 
Tennessee were rescued from the Rebel armies. 

The battles of Shiloh and Pittsburgh Landing were 
fought April 6 and 7, 1863, resulting in a victory to the 



TOUR AROUND THE WORLD. I 3 

Federal arms, and was one of the most hotly contested 
fields of the war. General Grant has said, since the close 
of the war, that it was, with one exception — that of the 
Wilderness — the most terrific which he saw in the war. 
On the 3d of June Shiloh was evacuated, and in a few 
days New Orleans was captured and Memphis fell. April 
30, 1S63, captured Port Gibson and Grand Gulf; May 14 
he captured Jackson, the capital of Mississippi; fought the 
battle of Champion Hills, defeating the Confederate Gen- 
eral Pemberton, losing 2,457 '^^^n; the Rebel loss was over 
4,000 killed and wounded and 3,000 prisoners; invested 
Vicksburg May 19, receiving its surrender July 4, 1863. 
The results of the summer campaign in the investment and 
capture of Vicksburg were the defeat of the enemy in five 
battles, the occupation of Jackson, a loss to the enemy of 
56,000 prisonex's, with 10,000 killed and wounded, arms and 
munitions of war for 60,000 men, and nearly 200 cannon. 
Grant had lost 943 killed, 7,095 wounded and 537 missing, 
and had made the largest capture ever made in war. On 
November 25 he carried the heights of Missionary Ridge, 
Ringold a few days after, and relieved the siege of Knox- 
ville, thus virtually closing the war in the southwest. On 
the 3d of March, 1864, he was confirmed as lieutenant-gen- 
eral and ordered to Washington, and on May 5, 6 and 7 
fought the bloody battles of the Wilderness, and June i that 
of Cold Harbor. The whole series of brilliant military 
operations, by which General Grant had carried an army of 
100,000 men, in forty-three days, from the Rapidan to the 
James, without the loss of a wagon, compelling his able an- 
tagonist to race at his side for the safety of the capital, will 
never cease to be the study and admiration of the military 
student. 

On the 15th of June he invested Petersburg, Virginia, 
with an army of over 100,000 men, his lines embracing a 
circuit of thirty miles. During the siege of Petersburg oc- 



14 GENERAL U. S. GRANT'S 

curred the victorious battles of the Shenandoah under 
General Philip Sheridan, and the great march of General 
Sherman " to the sea," when about 65,000 men swept over 
the country in a track fifty miles wide. Accompanying 
this army were 3,500 wagons and 35,000 horses; 1,328 pris- 
oners and 167 guns were taken; the Federal loss in killed 
63, and 245 wounded; 5,000 horses and 4,000 mules 
appropriated, 20,000 bales of cotton burned and 25,000 
captured at Savannah; 13,000 head of cattle, 10,000,000 
pounds of corn, 1,217,527 rations of meat, 919,000 of bread, 
483,000 of coffee, 581,534 of sugar, 1,145,500 of soap, 
137,000 of salt, and 10,000,000 of fodder were taken. By 
this severing of the Confederacy, Charleston was evacuated, 
Columbia, the capital of South Carolina, captured, and April 
13 the army had occupied Raleigh, North Carolina. April 
2, Grant captured Petersburg, after three days of hard fight- 
ing; the capture of Richmond the following day, and the 
surrender of General Lee and the Army of Virginia at 
Appomatox Court House April 9, 1865, followed by the 
suiTender of General Joseph E.Johnston to General Sher- 
man on the 26th, and on the 4th of May of General Taylor, 
with all the Confederate forces east of the Mississippi, and 
the surrender of General Kirby Smith, with all of his com- 
mand west of the Mississippi, on May 26th. The war 
was thus terminated with the surrender of all the Con- 
federate Government, its President, Jefferson Davis, having 
been captured on the iith of May, at Irwinsville, Georgia. 
The number of Rebel soldiers who surrendered was 174,223. 
The number of prisoners was 98,802. The Union armies 
under command of General Grant numbered 1,000,516 
soldiers. Their commander might well be proud of the 
great services which with him they had performed for the 
country. He issued the following farewell address: 

"Sor.DiERS OP THK Armibs OF THE Umted Statks : By your patriotic de- 
motion to your CO intry in the hour of tliiiiLrer and al.irm, your ma^^nificcnt fig'ht- 
Ing, bravery and endurincc, you have, iiuuntuiricd the su|ireituicy ol' the Union and 



TOUR AROUND THE WORLD. 



15 



'the ConstiUition, overthrown all armed opposition to the enforcement of the laws 
and the proclamations forever abolishin^j slavery — the cause and pretext of the Re- 
bellion — and openel tlie way to the rig^htful authorities to restore order, and inaugu- 
rate peace 01 a permanent and enduring' basis on every foot of American soil. 
Your marches, seig^es and battles, in distance, duration, resolution and brilliancy of 
results, dim the lustre of the world's past military achievements, and will be tlie 
patriot's precedent in the defence of liberty and right in all time to come. In obe- 
dience to your country's call, you left your homes and families, and volunt^-red in 
her defence. Victory has crowned your valor and secured the purpose of your pat- 
riotic hearts; and with the gratitude of your countrymen, and the highest honors a 
great and free nation can accord, you will soon be pirniitted to return to your 
homes and families, conscious of having discharged the highest duty of Aineri- 
can citizens. To achieve these glorious triumphs, and secure to yourselves, fellow- 
countrymen and posterity, the blessings ol free institutions, tens of thousands of 
your gallant comrades have fallen, and sealed the priceless legacy with their 
blood. The graves of these a grateful nation bedews with tears, honors their 
memories, and will ever cherish and support their stricken families." 

The war had now closed, and General Grant now ad- 
dressed himself with great energy to the works of peace. 
By the 2 2d of August he had succeeded in mustering out 
of the army 719,338, and by November 15, 1865, there had 
been returned to their homes 800,963 men. This was rap- 
idly followed every month until 1,023,021 had been dis- 
charged. Horses and mules had been sold to the value of 
$15,269,000; barracks and hospitals $447,873; damaged 
clothing 3^ielded $902,770; military railroads, 2,630 miles, 
with 6,695 ^^^^ ^^^ 433 locomotives transferred over, to 
proper authorities, and railroad equipments were sold 
amounting to $10,910,812. 

The whole number of men enlisted at different times 
during the war was 2,688,522. Of these, 56,000 were 
killed in battle; 219,000 died of wounds and disease in the 
military hospitals, and So,ooo died after discharge, from 
disease contracted during service; making a total loss of 
about 300,000 men. About 200,000 were crippled or per- 
manently disabled. Of colored troops, 180,000 enlisted and 
30,000 died. More than $300,000,000 was paid in bounties, 
and by States, towns and cities for the support of the fami- 
lies of soldiers. The Sanitary Commission disbursed, in 
money and supplies, $14,600,000. The Christian Com- 
mission disbursed $4,500,000. 



l6 GENERAL U. S. GRANT'S 

Congress at once passed a bill to revive the grade, 
" General of the army of the United States," and General 
Grant was appointed to the position. 

On December 12, 1867, he was appointed by President 
Johnson Secretary of War ad interim^ in the place of Hon. 
E. M. Stanton, suspended, which position he held until 
December following, when the senate refused to sanction 
the suspension of Mr. Stanton. On the 21st of May, 1868, 
General Grant was nominated by the national republican 
convention, assembled at Chicago, having received every 
vote cast; elected President the November following, hav- 
ing received two hundred and fourteen electoral votes, 
against eighty for Horatio Seymour, democrat. Inaugu- 
rated March 4, 1869, and was re-elected in 1872, over 
Horace Greeley, receiving two hundred and eighty-six 
votes against sixty-three scattering (Mr. Greeley having 
died). Inaugurated March 4, 1873, he vacated the Presi- 
dency only upon the expiration of his time, March 4, 1877. 

To one who has read what General Grant has done, 
little need be said as to what manner of man he is. The 
outline of his life shows his ability. Such achievements 
are, not the result of luck or accident. They are seldom 
seen in history. He has not only shown great ability, but 
wisdom, practical sagacity and independence in the whirl 
of extraordinary and important events which have occurred 
at Washington and in the South since the close of the war. 

For some months previous to the expiration of Gen- 
eral Grant's second term of ofKce, he felt the need of ab- 
solute rest, and that he might be entirely relieved from all 
cares and annoyances that would necessarily reach him, 
even in retirement, he planned a tour of the woi'ld, to occu- 
py at least two years, hoping to find the relief sought for. 
The history of this tour, with its unprecedented and un- 
looked-for ovations and triumphal tour will be found of in- 
tense interest to every American. 



CHAPTER II. 



OFF FOR EUROPE. 

On May 17th, 1877, ex-President U. S. Grant, his wife, 
and son Jesse, sailed from Philadelphia for Europe, via 
American Line steamer Indiana. His departure was made 
the occasion of a great parting demonstration, in which 
all classes of the community seemed to take a hearty and 
enthusiastic share. The courtesies extended to him in 
every city through which he had passed since his retire- 
ment from the Presidency were alike creditable to those 
who proffered, and to him who received them, and were 
the outburst of a people who recognized his great military 
and civil services. Before leaving the steamer that con- 
veyed the General to the Indiana, a very interesting cere- 
mony took place on board. In the ladies' cabin a private 
table was spread for the distinguished guests, among whom^ 
were General Grant, at the head of the table; General 
Sherman, on his right; Mayor Stokley, of Philadelphia^ 
on his left; Honorable Hamilton Fish, Colonel Fred. 
Grant, Honorable Zach. Chandler, Honorable Simon Cam- 
eron, Honorable Don Cameron, and other prominent 
military and civil officers. After luncheon. Mayor Stokley 
arose and toasted the " honored guest of the day " in a few 
appropriate and eulogistic remarks. General Grant replied : 

"Mr. Mayor and Gentlemen: I had not expected 
to make a speech to-day, and therefore can do nothing 
more than thank you, as I have had occasion to do so oflen 

2 



Il8 GENERAL U. S. GRANT's 

within the past week. I have been only eight days in 
Philadelphia, and have been received with such unexpect- 
ed kindness that it finds me with no words to thank you. 
What with driving in the park, and dinners afterward, 
and keeping it up until after midnight, and now to find 
myself still receiving your kind hospitality, I am afraid 
you have not left me stomach enough to cross the Atlan- 
tic." 

This was followed by short and highly complimentary 
speeches from General Sherman, ex-Secretary Fish, ex- 
Secreiary Chandler, ex-Secretary Robeson, ex-Senator 
Cameron, General Bailey, Governor Hartranft, and others; 
and so affected General Grant that he replied : 

"My Dear Friends: I was not aware tnat wc 
would have so much speech-making here, or that it would 
be necessary for me to say any more to you, but I feel that 
the compliments you have so sho^vered upon me were not 
altogether deserved — that they should not all be paid to 
me, either as a soldier or as a civil officer. As a General 
your praises do not all belong to me — as the executive of 
the nation they are not due to me. There is no man who 
can fill both or either of these positions without the help 
of good men. I selected my lieutenants when I was in 
both positions, and they were men, I believe, who could 
have filled my place often better than I did. I never flat- 
tered myself that I was entitled to the place you gave me. 
My lieutenants could have acted perhaps better than I, had 
the opportunity presented itself. Sherman could have 
taken my place, as a soldier or in a civil ofiice, and so could 
Sheridan, and others I might name. I am sure if the coun- 
try ever comes to this need again there will be men for the 
work. There will be men born for every emergency. 
Again I thank you, and again I bid you good-bye; and 
once again I say that, if I had failed, Sherman or Sheri- 



TOUR AROUND THE WORLD. I9 

dan, or some of my other lieutenants, would have succeed- 
ed." 

Shortly after this the General was transferred to the 
Indiana, last good-byes were said, and the steamer pro- 
ceeded on her way to England, arriving at Queenstown 
May 27, without mishap, the General and party having 
passed a delightful voyage, almost entirely free from the 
disagreeable effects of " seasickness", that renders an 
" ocean trip " so unpleasant. He was met by a delegation 
of prominent city officials, and tendered the hospitalities 
of Queenstown, with the assurance that every village and 
hamlet of Ireland had resounded with the praises of his 
name, and would welcome him with all the warmth and 
candor of the Irish people. He replied that he could 
not then avail himself of their hospitality, but would 
return to Ireland within a short time. 

Reaching Liverpool at half past two p. M., all the ship- 
ping in the Liverpool docks exhibited a profuse display of 
bunting, the flags of all nations waving along the seven 
miles of water front. An immense crowd was gathered 
on the docks to welcome the ex-President, and he landed 
amid cheers such as must have reminded him of the days 
directly after the war, when he was received by New York 
and other American cities. The Mayor of Liverpo(i^l read 
him an address of welcome, saluting him as an illustrious 
statesman and soldier, and when the ex-President modestly 
and in a few brief words acknowledged the honor done 
him, and expressed the very great pleasure he had from 
his reception, new cheers burst forth and a great crowd 
followed his carriage to the hotel. 

The judgment of strangers resembles somewhat the 
judgment of posterity. As he is regarded in European 
countries, so, doubtless, he will stand in historv, when the 
bitterness and the littleness of partisan strife have passed 



aO GENERAL U. S. GRANTS 

away, and his real services lo his country and his real char- 
acter are better understood. But in spite of partisan bitter- 
ness and personal opposition, such as a man of his positive 
character, placed in the most dithcult position in the world, 
and kept there during eight long years, could not fail to 
arouse, nothing is more certain than that General Grant 
has to-day a larger share of the gratitude and the affection 
of the American people than any other of our public men 
No matter how widely men may have differed from him, 
no matter how they may have opposed him, if they are 
really Americans, and if they are manly and patriotic men, 
in their hearts they wish well to the man who led our 
armies to victory; whose firm will saved the Union, and 
who — no matter what they may think his errors during 
his Presidency — entered political life against his will, and 
at the demand of the people gave up the great and per- 
manent position the nation had given him, to serve it in a 
new and to him untried and unwelcome field; and who, 
during sixteen long and weary years, stood at his post of 
duty unrelieved and without rest. 

It is a fact not generally remembered, that Grant's great 
lieutenants in the war — Sherman, Sheridan and Farragut 
— all enjoyed the " vacation in Europe " which they had 
so well earned. To General Grant, their honored chief, 
alone, was rest denied. The country required of him, and 
him alone, that he should derange all his plans in life, 
that he should put off the period of rest which he coveted 
and which he had earned, that he should even surrender 
the place at the head of the armies, to which he was ap- 
pointed amid the plaudits of the people, in order contin- 
uously to serve thcni. Few men of such arduous and 
conspicuous services have had so long and difiicult a toui 
of duty imposed upon them. Republics are said to be un- 
grateful, but our own is not so entirely cold and devoid of 
gratitude that men do not feci a keen sense of gratification 



TOUR AROUND THE WORLD. 21 

when they see their faithful and tired servant taking his 
ease at last, and receiving in foreign lands the honors and 
the respect to which his remarkable career so eminently 
entitle him. 

To the statesmen and soldiers whom he will meet, even 
more than to the general mass, he will be an object of 
great curiosity. Except Field Marshal Von Moltke, no 
general of our days has commanded and wielded such 
masses of men ; no general whom he will meet can boast 
of a more brilliantly conceived or a more daringly exe- 
cuted campaign than that of Vicksburg; no one of them 
has had the control of so vast a field of war as he, and 
surely none has seen hotter fire than Grant withstood in 
the desperate days of the Wilderness, Spottsylvania and 
Cold Harbor. In every country in Europe which he may 
visit, he will find distinguished military chiefs who have 
studied his campaigns, who know how to appreciate the 
dogged courage of Shiloh, the brilliant audacity of Vicks- 
burg, the genius which recovered an imperilled position 
before Chattanooga, the indomitable perseverance of the 
Virginia campaigns, and the broad and comprehensive view 
which enabled him to plan the operations of armies 
stretched across half a continent. 

Nor will distinguished civilians be less eager to hear his 
voice and to scrutinize his features, for they will remem- 
ber that he acted a foremost part in many of the most 
notable events of the century; they will see in him the 
supporter and right hand of Lincoln in the emancipation 
of the slaves, the restorer of peace, the general who re- 
turned a million of soldiers to peaceful industries, the ruler 
of the American republic during eight years of extraordi- 
nary political turbulence. 

All the journals of the city next day appeared with 
highly complimentary editorials, assuring General Grant 
of a generous hospitality. The Daily News said that 



22 GENERAL U. S. GRANt's 

" General Grant was unquestionably the greatest soldier 
living." The General and Mrs. Grant had a perfect round 
of festivities at Liverpool. Hurried visits w^ere made to 
all points of interest, visiting and examining the docks of 
the city, enlisting great interest from General Grant in the 
magnificent dock system, and, contrasted with the system 
of piers in the United States, he admitted the superiority 
of these supurb and substantial structures over those of 
the East and North rivers. 

The party returned to the city, and were driven to the 
town hall to lunch with the Mayor and other civic digni- 
taries. This building is one of the most interesting in the 
city, and the figure of Britannia, looking abroad from the 
summit of the great dome, reminds the visitor of the now 
celebrated Hermann monument in Germany. The ex- 
President was escorted to the reception saloon, and subse- 
quently examined the portraits of former mayors and 
wealthy merchants, who have long since passed away; 
the famous Chantry statues of Canning and Roscoe, and 
the elegant tapestry with which the various saloons are 
fitted up. 

Lunch was prepared. Covers were laid for fifty, the 
table being beautifully decorated with choice flow^ers and 
ornaments in confection, suggestive of very elaborate pre- 
paration. Among those present, were the Mayor, the 
Mayoress, members of the city council, one member of 
parliament, the City Solicitor and several prominent mer- 
chants. Mrs. Grant sat on the left of the Mayor, and our 
ex-President on his right. The repast was served immedi- 
ately the guests assembled, and was a most enjoyable affair. 
At the conclusion of lunch, the Mayor arose and pro- 
posed the health of the Queen, in accordance with the 
tradition which places English majesty first on all state 
and festive occasions. This was drank standing. The 
host next proposed the health of "General and ex-Presi» 



TOUR AROUND THE WORLD 33 

dent Grant, the distinguished soldier and statesman pres- 
ent," remarking that it would be unnecessary for him to 
repeat the earnestness of their welcome, their desire to 
draw closer the bonds of friendship between the two great- 
est commercial nations in the world, and especially to honor 
the hero of a hundred battles, whose courage and skill 
challenged their admiration. 

Grant responded with unusual gayety of manner, 
acknowledging the pleasure with which he received their 
constant manifestations of good will, believing that ulti- 
mately the bonds of union must be strengthened between 
the two countries. He excused himself from an extended 
reply. During the luncheon, the streets leading to the town 
hall were packed with spectators. 

General Grant afterward visited the exchange and news- 
rooms, where he was received with great enthusiasm. 
Leaving Liverpool for Manchester, May 30, immense 
crowds gathered along the route, and the stations were 
beautifully decorated, the American <flag being everywhere 
prominent. Arriving at Manchester at eleven o'clock, he 
was received by the Mayor and Aldermen and a tremen- 
dous crowd of citizens, who manifested their enthusiasm by 
continued cheering. The Mayor's speech was quite lengthy, 
and referred feelingly to a similar occasion, when, in 1S63,. 
the ship Griswold brought a cargo of provisions to the 
suffering operatives of the city, who had been thrown out 
of employment, owing to the failure of the cotton crop, 
from the South. This address was followed by a laudatory 
and congratulatory address by Sir John Heron, recalling the. 
kind expressions which the Queen's birthday had evoked 
in America. He hoped for a constant increase of the exist- 
ing good feeling, and trusted that the visit of the ex-Presi- 
dent would ultimately lead to free commercial intercourse 
between England and the United States. 

The General, who had listened to the addresses with 



24 GENERAL U. S. GRANT's 

that quiet composure of manner peculiar to him — as 
unmoved, though the target of thousands of eyes, as though 
alone — rising, acknowledged the presentation. " It is 
scarcely possible for me," he said, " to give utterance to the 
feelings evoked by my reception upon your soil from the 
moment of my arrival in Liverpool, where I have passed 
a couple of days, until the present moment. After the 
scene which I have witnessed in your streets, the elements 
of greatness, as manifested in your public and industrial 
buildings, I may be allowed to say, that no person could be 
the recipient of the honor and attention you have bestowed 
upon me, without the profoundest feelings. Such have 
been incited in me, and I find myself inadequate to their 
iproper expression. It was my original purpose on my 
arrival in Liverpool to hasten to London, and from thence 
•proceed to visit the various points of interest in the coun- 
•try. Among these I have regarded Manchester as the 
imost important. As I have been aware for years of the 
great amount of your manufactures, many of which find 
their ultimate destination in my own country, so I am aware 
that the sentiments of the sfreat mass of the people of Man- 
chester went out in sympathy to that country, during the 
mighty struggle, in which it fell to my lot to take some 
humble part. The expressions of the people of Manchester 
at the time of the great trial, incited within the breasts 
of my countrymen a feeling of friendship toward them, 
distinct from that felt toward all England; and in that 
spirit I accept, on the part of my country, the compliments 
paid me as its representative, and thank you." 

After General Grant had concluded his address of 
thanks, luncheon was served in the large banquet hall. 
Toasts to the Queen and the Prince of Wales were pro- 
posed and drank with all the honors. The Mayor of Man- 
chester responded to each in loyal speeches. The health of 
President Hayes was then proposed, and was received with 



TOUR AROUND THE WORLD. 2^ 

enthusiasm. Mr. Newton Crane, United States consul to 
Manchester, responded amid apphuise. After these form- 
ahties, the Mayor of Manchester proposed the health of 
General Grant, amid the plaudits of the assemblage. 

General Grant replied, with a humorous twinkle in his 
eye, that Englishmen had got more speeches and of greater 
length out of him than his own countrymen; but they 
were poorer, because they were longer than he was accus- 
tomed to make. He warmly returned thanks for the 
reception he had received at the hands of the people of 
Manchester, and concluded his remarks by proposing the 
health of the Mayoress and the ladies. The Mayor replied 
in suitable terms. 

Mr. Jacob Bright, M. P., being called upon for a 
speech, said : "No guest so distinguished has ever before 
visited Manchester. General Grant is a brave soldier, and 
he has pursued a generous, pacific policy toward the ene- 
mies he had conquex'ed. He should be honored and beloved, 
and deserves the hearty reception he will receive through- 
out the realm." After the banquet, the General was intro- 
duced to the assemblage, and a general hand-shaking fol- 
lowed. In the evening he visted the Theatre Royal, and 
spent a short time at the Prince's Theatre. His reception 
at both places was very enthusiastic. 

The journey from Manchester to London was marked 
by hearty greetings and welcomes at the several stations, 
and imposing demonstrations were made at Leicester and 
Bedford, as the handsomely decorated cars reached those 
places. To some of the addresses that were made to him, 
General Grant replied with an ease and sincerity which, 
no doubt, made our British cousins wonder how he came 
by his title of the "silent president." The secret lies, prob- 
ably, in the fact that the General detests forms and shams 
and political intrigue, and he had good reasons for his taci- 
turnity when he found himself surrounded by politicians 



96 GBNBRAL, U. S. GRANT'S 

whom his judgment told him it was dangerous to trust. 
His welcome in England was a genuine outpouring of a 
nation's respect and admiration, and as such General Grant 
received it, and responded to it with an unembarrassed and 
earnest sinceri^. 



CHAPTER III. 



GENERAL GRANT IN LONDON. 

General Grant arrived at the terminus of the Midland 
Railway (St. Pancras Station), London, June i, where he 
was met by Minister Pierrepont, in behalf of the United 
States, and Lord Vernon. Huge crowds thronged the 
entrance to the station, and cheered loudly, but there 
were no speeches. General Grant and party at once 
entered Minister Pierrepont's carriage, and were driven 
rapidly down Tottenham Court Road into Oxford street, 
thence to the residence of the American Minister. During 
the afternoon he was introduced to the Prince of Wales, it 
being his first visit of importance since reaching the city. 

The following day General Grant, Prince of Wales, 
Duke of Cambridge, Lord Dudley, Lord Eicho, the Duke 
of Hamilton, the German Ambassador, Count Munster, 
and a number of Peers, left London by rail to witness 
the races at Epsom. Returning to London, General 
Grant was entertained at a grand banquet at Apsley House,, 
given in his honor by the Duke of Wellington. It was 
a splendid and hearty reception. The guests were Mrs. 
and General Grant, Count and Countess Gleichen, Lord 
and Lady Abercromby, Lord and Lady Churchill, Mar- 
quises Tweeddale, Sligo and Ailesbury, Earl Roden, Vi» 
count Torrington, Lords George Paget, Calthorpe, Hough- 
ton, Strathnairn, the Marchioness of Hertford, Countess 
of Hardwicke, Countess of Bradford, Lady Wellesley, 
Lady Emily Peel and Lady Skelmersdale, Miss Wellesley, 



S8 GENERAL U. S. GRANt's 

and a number of others well known to the London world 
of high social life. 

The banquet was served up in the famous Waterloo 
Chamber, where the old Iron Duke loved to meet the war 
generals of 1815 ^^ ^^^® iSth of June every year, and cele- 
brate the anniversary of the great battle which forever 
closed the fortunes of Napoleon Bonaj^arte. Here, over- 
looking Hyde Park and within view of his own statute at 
the entrance to the park at Hyde Park corner, the old 
Duke presided over the annual banquet, reviewing the 
events of the [momentous times when the supremacy of 
Great Britain was hanging in the balance, with strong 
probabilities of the scale turning against her. The Water- 
loo Chamber has been closed a good deal since the death 
of Arthur Wellesley, for the present Duke and Duchess 
have spent most of their time when in England at the 
lovely estate in Winchelsea, which was presented to the 
eminent soldier by the Crown after the close of the great 
European wars. 

The present owner of the estates and titles of Welling- 
ton is a quiet, unassuming gentleman, who loves the fine 
arts, is a writer of ability, fishes in his lake at Winchelsea, 
and, during the season in London, patronizes the clubs. He 
is Lord of the Manor of Surrey, appoints the justices 
of the peace and attends to the poor. He is a member of 
the House of Lords, of course, but he has rarely done more 
than record his vote on such extraordinary occasions as 
the disestablishment of the Church of Ireland, and mat- 
ters affecting the autonomy in his party. The Duchess is 
considered one of the handsomest ladies in Europe, and has 
always been a great favorite with Queen Victoria. As a 
lady in waiting, she attends Her Majesty on all state occa- 
sions. Hence the tastes and desires of the Duke and 
Duchess have lead them to neglect Apsley House to some 
extent 



TOUR AROUND THE WORLD. 29 

This Waterloo Chamber still contains some of the fine 
old paintings which were hung upon the walls by the first 
Duke. For instance, there is the celebrated painting, " Sign- 
ing the treaty of Westphalia," where the commander-in- 
chief is the central figure of a galaxy of generals, such as 
has seldom been gathered together since. A magnificent 
life-size portrait of Napoleon, Landseer's " Van Amburgh 
and the Lions," Correggio's " Christ on the Mount of 
Olives," on a panel, and full length portraits of foreign 
sovereigns and notabilities, by Velasquez, Wilkie and 
Teniers, are in the saloons adjoining. The Duke was look- 
ing out of the main window overlooking the park at the 
time the house was mobbed by the reformers whom he 
opposed. 

It was a dramatic incident, that the conqueror of Lee 
should meet in this revered chamber the descendant of the 
conqueror of Napoleon the Great. General Grant was 
given precedence in the honors of the evening, escorting 
the Duchess of Wellington to supper, and afterward escort- 
ing her to the reception, at which were present the Duke 
and Duchess of Cleveland, the Duke and Duchess of Suth- 
erland, the Duke and Duchess of Manchester, and many 
of those already mentioned above. 

There were no speeches of note at the supper, which 
was a quiet though brilliant affair. The grand gaseliers 
lit up the magnificent hall and the lovely damasks and 
laces, and revealed the wealth of gold and silver and the 
flowers and confections of the table. 

General Grant attended divine service on the 3d in 
Westminster Abbey. An eloquent sermon was preached 
by Dean Stanley, from Genesis xxvii. 38. In the course 
of his sermon he alluded to ex-President Grant, saying, 
"that in the midst of the congregation there was one of 
the chiefest citizens of the United States, who had just laid 
down his sceptre of the American commonwealth, who, 



30 GENERAL U. S. GRANT'S 

b}' his military prowess and generous treatment of his com- 
rades and adversaries, had restored unity to his country. 
We welcome him as a sign and pledge that the two great 
kindred nations are one in heart, and are equally at home 
under this fraternal roof. Both regard with reverential 
affection this ancient cradle of their common life." 

Although the Duke of Wellington was the first to 
exhibit to a circle of admirers the great lion of the season, 
yet it was only possible for him to make a restricted use of 
his triumph in favor of the type of humanity that can be 
invited to a ducal mansion. The real introduction of the 
ex-President to the world of Londoners was made on the 
5th, by the American Minister, in a reception so brilliant 
that all occasions of the sort which have hitherto shone 
in the annals of our legations abroad will become a prey 
to "dumb forgetfulness." In each one of the engage- 
ments scored for a month ahead, the ex-President met 
some one set of English society — men of this or that 
party or shade of opinion, men of science or of letters, 
army men or navy men — but at the legation, and presented 
by the American Minister, he had an opportunity to make 
the acquaintance of English society, without regard to the 
lines which divide it into so many coteries, and saw at its 
best that average quantity of the London world which 
he could never get at one view save on some such neutral 
ground as our Minister's parlors. The reception at Min- 
ister Pierrepont's was immensely successful. The lega- 
tion in Cavendish Square was interiorly decorated with 
the grandest profusion of flowers, with the grand old 
American flag over all. Since the announcement was 
made that the Minister would receive the ex-President, 
Mrs. Pierrepont had been overwhelmed with requests for 
invitations, and out of her good nature acceded, until the 
number of cards out guaranteed perhai:)S a greater throng 
than would ordinarily be comfortable. But, after all, what 



TOUR AROUND THE WORLD. 3I 

ns a reception without a crush? Despite the Immense 
crowd, especially of on-lookers, in Cavendish Square, 
there was not the slightest confusion. Carriages rolled 
up, occupants moved out and up into the mansion, with 
that absence of surrounding noise and shouting that char- 
acterizes your true reception where the ton is don and the 
servants well drilled. 

On entering, the guests were shown into the cloak 
rooms, on the ground floor, where wraps were left and a 
last glance in the mirrors taken. Who, even a philoso- 
pher, disdains that last reflective glance? 

On ascending the drawing-room floor, the guests were 
announced in the small ante-room where stood Mrs. 
Pierrepont, General Grant, Colonel Badeau, Mrs. Grant, 
and Mr. Pierrepont, in the order given. 

General Grant was attired in plain evening dress, which 
was conspicuous in its plainness amid the stars, garters 
and ribbons worn by many of lesser note; even the Jap- 
anese Minister was more gorgeous. As for the Chinese 
Embassy, no tea chest ever equalled their curious splendor. 

Mrs. Grant wore a toilet of claret-colored stamped vel- 
vet, and cream satin, high-necked, and with long sleeves. 

Mrs. Pierrepont was clad in an elaborate costume of 
scarlet and black. 

Among the English notables present, were the Lord 
Chancellor, the Dukes of Leeds and Bedford, the Marquises 
of Salisbury and Hertford, the Earls of Derby, Belmore, 
Longford, Dunravan, Ducie, Caithness and Shaftesbury, 
Lord Airey, General Probyn, Mr. and Mrs. Gladstone, 
with peers and peeresses innumerable. 

Every American resident responded to the Minister's 
invitation. The Morgans and the Peabodys, Mr. James 
McHenry, Chevalier Wikoff, Mr. G. W. Smalley, Chief 
Justice Shea, Mr. Moncure D. Conway, Mr. Newton Crane, 
Consul at Manchester, Mrs. Fairchild, Mrs. Julia Ward 



33 GENERAL U. S. GRANT S 

Howe and her daughter Maud, Mr. and Mrs. Ives, Mrs. 
Hicks and Miss Nannie Schomberg, were among the most 
prominent. 

The immense majority of the dresses of the ladies 
were in excellent taste, and none were censurable. The 
American belles carried awa}^ the palm for style and beauty, 
as they usually do on such occasions. 

At half-past twelve Mrs, Pierrepont and General Grant 
came down stairs, and, standing in the lower hall, bade 
farewell to the parting guests, while Mrs. Grant, Mr. 
Pierrepont and Colonel Badeau took up position in a separ- 
ate room, the amiable Secretary of Legation, Mr. William 
J. Hoppin, hovering over one and all. The children of 
both nations left the legation with a feeling that the tie be- 
tween them had been strengthened in the generous hospi- 
tality of the American representative and the cordial, 
response of England's best and greatest. 

On the 6th, General Grant dined with the Earl Car- 
narvon, and in the evening attended the royal concert at 
Buckingham Palace; on the yth, dined with Lord Hough- 
ton; on the 8th, with the Marquis of Hertford, where he 
met about fifty of the members of the house of lords, and 
in the evening a grand reception tendered by General 
Badeau, in Beaufort Gardens. Here his reception was 
brilliant, and only eclipsed by that of Minister Pierrepont. 
When General Grant arrived, a distinguished company hnd 
already assembled in the drawing-room, by whom he was 
most warmly greeted. Among the first to welcome hini 
was Mr. Gladstone, who appeared to take great interest in 
American affairs. 

As General Grant moved about the saloon, he encoun- 
tered Lord Northbrooke, Lord Fitzwilliam, Lord O'Hagan, 
Sir Charles Dilke, Sir James Colville, Viscount Reid- 
haven, Sir Patrick and Lady Grant, who claim some kind 
of kinship with our illustrious countryman; the Lord 



TOUR AROUND THE WORLD. 



33 



Bishop of Bristol and Gloucester, Jacob and Mrs. Bright, 
Mr. Kinglake, Tom Hughes, who has become almost a 
hero to Americans; Mr. Macmillan, the publisher of the 
celebrated magazine bearing his name; Mr. Walter, pro- 
prietor of the Times; Mr. Bothwick, of the Morning 
Post^ and Baron Renter. 

On the 9th, General Grant attended a reception at the 
Hertford mansion, having lunched with Lord Granville 
previously. On the nth, he was at his daughter's, Mrs. 
Sartoris, remaining until the 15th, when occurred the 
grand reception by the corporation of London, at which 
time he was made an honorary citizen, and presented with 
the freedom of the city. 

The presentation of the freedom of the city of London 
is always an event of importance. It is no common honor. 
The greatest heroes and the proudest monarchs have been 
reckoned among the " freemen." George HL, who always 
expressed a supreme contempt for ordinary matters and 
mortals, had to acknowledge that the city of London could 
bestow a franchise more valuable than all the knighthoods 
and baubles of the crown. Since his day hundreds of men, 
whose works will ever be regarded as the gems of history 
— statesmen, scientists, lawyers, merchants, princes — have 
been recorded in the grand old book which is prized by 
the corporation of London more than all the privileges and 
immunities granted by the government. George Peabody, 
the noble and benevolent American merchant, whose name 
is ever uttered by the poor of the English metropolis with 
affectionate reverence, was made a freeman. General Gari- 
baldi, the liberator of Italy and the father of Italian unitv, 
received the same privilege. The Shah of Persia, the Sul- 
tan of Turkey, the Czar of Russia, Prince Leopold of 
Belgium, Napoleon III., General Blucher and M. Thiers 
were also presented with the rights, privileges and immu- 
3 



34 GENERAL U. S. GRANT'S 

nities of the dwellers within " ye Bishopsgate " and Temple 
Bar. 

It has often been asked, What is the freedom of the 
city of London? It is simply this — a small slip of parch- 
ment, inscribed with the name and titles of the person to 
whom it is to be presented, guarantees to the holder and 
his children after him forever the right to live and trade 
within the city prescribed by St. Clements in the west, 
Bishopsgate in the east, Pentonville on the north, and the 
shores of the Thames on the south, without having to pay 
a tax on the goods as they are brought through the gates. 
It exempts them from naval and military service, and tolls 
and duties throughout the United Kingdom. It insures to 
his children the care of the Chamberlain, who, incase they 
are left orphans, taKes cnarge of their property and admin- 
isters it in their interest until they arrive at years of matu- 
rity. The parchment bears the seal and signature of the 
Lord Mayor and Chamberlain, and is generally ornamented 
with ribbon, and illuminated. It is always enclosed in a 
long, thin gold box, and is intended, of course, as an heir- 
loom. 

When the corporation have decided to confer the parch- 
ment upon any distinguished individual, he is notified in the 
old-fashioned style by the City Chamberlain, whose missive 
begins, " You are hereby commanded to appear in the 
common hall," etc., naming the date when the city fathers 
will be present. He is met in the common hall by the 
Mayor and Councillors. The City Chamberlain informs him 
that the city has decided to confer upon him the privileges 
of a free citizen, and makes an address, usually applauda- 
tory of the special services or merits of the individual. The 
recipient signs his name in the Clerk's book, and this offi- 
cial and the City Chamberlain then sign their names beneath, 
guarantors or " compurgators," becoming, according to the 



TOUR AROUND THE WORLD. 35 

rule, responsible for his acts as a citizen. The recipient 
then steps forward, the oath is administered by the Cham- 
berlain, who demands that he shall be in all and every 
respect true and loyal to the interests of the city ; he shakes 
hands with the Mayor, Chamberlain, Clerk and Councillors, 
and the gold box is committed to his care. 

The reception was a complete success. It was a his- 
torical event in the history of two great nations. The 
event excited unusual [^interest, even in cynical London. 
The day was sunny and clear, being what many of the 
spectators called " Queen's weather." 

General Grant arrived most unostentatiously in the 
private carriage of the American Minister, accompanied 
by his wife, Jesse (his son), Mr. and Mrs. Pierrepont and 
General Badeau. Ten thousand spectators crowded to the 
edge of the barricades and greeted him with that hearty 
cheering peculiar to the English when they desire to wel 
come a stranger of distinction. 

Just as much enthusiasm was manifested as on the occa- 
sion of the visits of the Shah, four years before, and when 
Garibaldi took the Emperor of the French by surprise and 
accepted an ovation such as will never be forgotten by 
those who witnessed it at the Mansion House. 

As Grant alighted, he was met by a deputation of 
London Aldermen, arrayed in their gorgeous crimson 
robes and with the gold chains of office glittering in the 
sunlight. As he passed on into the corridor, a company of 
the City Guards and Yeomen presented arms and the 
crowd again <rave a long- cheer. It was a brilliant scene. 

The distinguished party were then escorted into the 
library. Here the scene became bewildering in its antique 
splendor. The stately hall, with its stately alcoves lined 
with books, and its many colored windows which blushed in 
the golden sunlight, the ladies attired in their variegated 
spring toilets, the Aldermen in scarlet and the Councilmen 



36 GENERAL U. S. GRANT'S 

in their mazarine robes, all presented an ensemble at once 
charming and inspiring. The band played " Hail Colum- 
bia " as the party entered. 

General Grant walked in a dignified and self-possessed 
manner toward the Mayor's chair, and took a seat to the 
left of the dais, amid the most cordial cheering. The 
City Chamberlain arose, and read the formal address on 
behalf of the Mayor, tendering to the General the right 
hand of fellowship, and referring at length to the fact that 
he was the first President of the American Republic who 
had been elevated to the dignity of citizenship of the city 
of London. 

Alluding to the kindness extended by America to the 
Prince of Wales and Prince Artiiur, he said the corpor- 
ation received General Grant, desiring to compliment the 
General and the country in his pel'son by conferring on him 
the honorary freedom of their ancient city, a freedom exist- 
ing eight centuries before his ancestors landed on Ply- 
mouth Rock — nay, even before the time of the Norman 
Conqueror. London, in conferring the honor, recognized 
the distinguished mark he has left on American history, 
his magnanimity, his triumphs and his consideration for his 
vanquished adversaries. It also recognized the conciliatory 
policy of his administration. 

They, the corporation, fervently hoped he would enjoy 
his visit to England; that he might live long, and be 
spared to witness the two great branches of the Anglo- 
Saxon family go on in their career of increasing amity and 
mutual respect, in an honest rivalry for the advancement 
of the peace, th« liberty and the morality of mankind. 

In conclusion, the speaker said: "Nothing now remains, 
General, but that I should present to you an illuminated 
copy of the resolution of this honorable court, for the 
reception of which an appropriate casket is preparing, and, 
finally, to offer you, in the name of this honorable court, 



TOUR AROUND THE WORLD. 



37 



the right hand of fellowship as a citizen of London." 
The Chamberlain then shook General Grant's right hand 
amid loud cheering. 

Grant arose, and very briefly and appropriately thanked 
the court for the distinguished honor, and then signed his 
name to the roll of honor, with the Clerk and Chamberlain 
as compurgators. 

The gold casket, containing the freedom of the city, is 
in the cinque cento style, oblong, the corners mounted by 
American eagles, and beautifully decorated. On the 
reverse side is a view of the entrance to the Guildhall, and 
an appropriate inscription. At the ends are two figures, 
also in gold, finely modeled and chased, representing the 
city of London and the United States, and bearing their 
respective shields, the latter executed in rich enamel. At 
the corners are double columns laurel wreathed with corn 
and cotton, and on the cover a cornucopia, emblematic of 
the fertility and prosperity of the United States. The 
rose, shamrock and thistle are also introduced. The cover 
is surmounted by the arms of the city of London. The 
casket is supported by American eagles, modeled and 
chased in gold, the whole standing on a velvet plinth deco- 
rated with stars and stripes. 

The company then proceeded to the banqueting hall, 
where seats had been provided for one thousand guests. 
The Lord Mayor presided. At his right sat General and 
Mrs. Grant, Minister and Mrs. Pierrepont, General 
Badeau and Jesse Grant. 

Among the distinguished guests present, were Sir Staf- 
ford Northcote, Lord and Lady Tenderden, Mr. Stans- 
field, Mr. A. E. Foster, several peers prominent in the 
house of lords, a number of the members of the house of 
commons, consuls, merchants, and other citizens of Lon- 
don. 

The room was decorated with miniature English and 



38 GENERAL U. S. GRANT's 

American flags, and the tables presented an interesting 
and artistic appearance. 

After the dejeuner^ the toastmaster, dressed in a gor- 
geous silk sash formed of stars and stripes, arose, and the 
bugle sounded. The first toast was "The Queen," the sec- 
ond was " The Health of General Grant," which was 
received by the guests standing, and amid great cheering. 

The Lord Mayor then said: "I, as chief magistrate 
of the city of London, and on the part of the corporation, 
offer you as hearty a welcome as the sincerity of language 
can conve3\ Your presence here, as the late President of 
the United States, is especially gratifying to all classes of 
the community, and we feel that, although this is your first 
visit to England, it is not a stranger we greet, but a tried 
and honored friend. Twice occupying, as you did, the 
exalted position of President of the United States, and, 
therefore, one of the foremost representatives of that coun- 
try, we confer honor upon ourselves by honoring you. Let 
me express both the hope and the belief that, when you 
take your departure, you will feel that many true friends 
of yours personally, and also of 3'our countrymen, have 
been left behind. T have the distinguished honor to pro- 
pose to your health. May you long live to enjoy the best 
of health and unqualified happiness." 

General Grant's reply was made with deep emotion, and 
was simply to return his thanks for the unexpected honor 
paid him, and his desire to say much more for their brilliant 
reception than he could express. 

" The United States " was coupled with the name of 
Mr. Pierrepont, who responded in a happy speech, com- 
plimenting Grant and England. The final toast was " The 
city of London," and responded to by the Lord Mayor. 
The company then di'=:persed with " three cheers for Gen- 
eral Grant and the United .States." 

After leaving the Guildhall, the company proceeded 



TOUR AROUND THE WORLD. 39 

to the Mansion House, at the corner of what was once 
the famous Bucklesbury and Poultry. Here they took 
coffee with the Mayor. 

Then the Mayor's state carriage was ordered, and they 
drove over to Sydenham to the crystal palace, arriving at 
the main entrance at half past four o'clock p. m. They 
were received with the most boisterous enthusiasm. There 
were at least thirty thousand persons present. A tour ot 
the vast building was rapidly made, the party dining in the 
west wing. General Grant avoided all demonstrations 
made by the crowd. When darkness set in, Grant was 
escorted to the place of honor in the Queen's corridor of the 
palace, where he remained for some time smoking and 
chatting with his friends and their ladies. 

A grand display of fireworks took place during the 
evening. The principal pyrotechnic display pieces were 
the portrait of Grant and the capitol at Washington, which 
were received with prolonged cheers. 

At about eleven o'clock the demonstration finished, 
and the party returned to town in their carriages. Gen- 
eral Grant, on parting with the Mayor, expressed his ex- 
treme gratification and pleasure. 

On the i6th, General and Mrs. Grant dined with the 
Marquis of Lome and the Princess Louise, at Kensington 
castle; on the i8th, at breakfast with Mr. George W. 
Smalley, correspondent New York Tribune. Everything 
was recherche^ and the company of the choicest. Among 
the guests were Professor Huxley, the scientist; Matthew 
Arnold, Sir Charles Dilke, Sir Frederick Pollock, Robert 
Browning, A. W. Kinglake, Anthony Trollope, Tom 
Hughes, Meredith Townsend, Frank Hill, Right Honorable 
James Stanfield, and many others. 

In the evening General Grant was the guest of the 
Reform club, Earl Granville presiding. The party num- 
bered forty, and represented the liberal ideas which the club 



40 GEXEItAL U. S, grant's 

sets itself the task of embodying. The dinner itself was 
among the finest ever given in London, the cuisine of this 
association of liberal gentlemen being celebrated all over 
the world, and free from all danger of its c/^^ ever being 
called on to fight for his reputation in the courts, as the 
Napoleon of the soup tureen who composes banquets for 
a rival club was obliged to do of late. The table was a 
picture in itself, not to speak of the good things between 
the top and bottom of the jnenu. 

Earl Granville, as soon as the cloth was removed, pro- 
posed the health of Her Majesty the Queen. To this the 
Right Honorable William E. Forster responded in a 
singularly eloquent speech. In the course of his remarks 
he referred to the great services of General Grant in the 
cause of human freedom. He dwelt with particular em- 
phasis upon the imjDortance to civilization of the cultivation 
of amicable relations between the two great countries, Eng- 
land and the United States. With gi'eat felicity he pictured 
the results of such a state of friendliness, and elicited con- 
tinued cheering. Passing on to a more practical branch of 
his subject, he amplified upon the opportunities for ad- 
vancement to the human race, which a hearty concord 
between the two nations would give. He saw in it the ac- 
celeration of discoveries in every branch of science, the 
material progress of the masses and the setting up of loftier 
standards of private taste and public virtue. 

Earl Granville proposed the health of " the Illustrious 
Statesman and Warrior, General Ulysses S. Grant," al- 
luding in the course of his pithy speech to the beneficent 
results accruing to both nations from the settlement of the 
Alabama Claims. " England and America," he said, "nay, 
civilization throughout the universe, recognize in General 
Grant one of those extraordinary instruments of Divine 
Providence bestowed in its beneficence to the human race.*' 

Upon rising to reply, General Grant was greeted with 



TOUR AROUND THE WORLD. 



41 



a perfect storm of applause. "I am overwhelmed," he 
said, "with the kindness shown by Enf^lishmen to me 
and expressed to America. I regret that I am unable ade- 
quately to express, even with the temptation to do so of 
the omnipresent enterprise of the New York Herald 
[cheers] — to express my thanks for the manifold fraternal 
courtesies I have received. Words would fail, especially 
within the limitations of a public speech, to express my 
feelings in this regai"d. I hope, when an opportunity is 
offered me of calmer and more deliberate moments, to put 
on record my grateful recognition of the fraternal senti- 
njents of the English people, and the desire of America to 
render an adequate response." " The speech of Earl Gran- 
ville," he continued, " has inspired thoughts in my bosom 
which it is impossible for me adequately to present. Never 
have I lamented so much as now my poverty in phrases to 
give due expression to my affection for the mother country." 

General Grant spoke under the pressure of unusual 
feeling, and continued with unusual eloquence to express 
the hope that his words, so far as they had any value, would 
be heard in both countries and lead to the union of the 
English speaking people and the fraternity of the human 
race. During the delivery of his speech the applause and 
cheering was almost continuous while he was on his feet. 
The dinner was the greatest demonstration yet made in the 
ex-President's honor. 

The interest taken by the American public in the move- 
ments of General Grant not only concerns itself with the 
honors showered upon the great soldier, but also partakes 
of curiosity to observe what effect all this will have upon 
the man. He has always been individually an object of 
speculation. 

During the war, people studied his cigar stumps, and 
we all remember what Lincoln, judging by results, thought 
of his brand of whisky. His silence was symbolical, and 



GENERAL U. S. GRANt's 

eager partisans, and often the nation, grasped at his centen'* 
tious utterances — if not as the rallying cries of new ideas, 
at least as old ones put into fighting form. From operating 
on millions of men he has become a being to be operated 
on. Princes, dukes, earls, marquises, viscounts, have him 
within short range, and fire dinners and receptions at him. 
Princesses, duchesses, marchionesses, open all their batter- 
ies and smiles and soft speech upon him. The heavy shot 
of statesmen, scientists and philanthropists bang into his 
brain. British brass bands blaze away at him, British 
crowds let fly volleys of cheers at him, and away ahead are 
seen the ammunition trains of the nobility, gentry and com- 
mon people, coming up with more dinners, receptions, civic 
honors, brass bands and cheers. Almost enough to make 
us pity him. How will he come out of the ordeal? 



CHAPTER IV. 



GRANT IN ENGLAND. 

The following letter, written by Gen. Grant to George 
W. Childs, of Philadelphia, will be of general interest: 
"London, Eng., June i6, 1877. 

"My Dear Mr. Guilds : — After an unusually stormy 
passage for any season of the year, and continuous sea- 
sickness generally among the passengers after the second 
day out, we reached Liverpool Monday afternoon, the 2Sth 
of May. Jesse and I proved to be among the few good 
sailors. Neither of us felt a moment's uneasiness during 
the voyage. 

"I had proposed to leave Liverpool immediately on arri- 
val, and proceed to London, where I knew our Minister had 
made arrangements for a formal reception, and had accepted 
for me a few invitations of courtesy ; but what was my sur- 
prise to find nearly all the shipping in port at Liverpool 
decorated with flags of all nations, and from the mainmast 
of each the flag of the Union was most conspicuous. 

"The docks were lined with as many of the population 
as could find standing room, and the streets, to the hotel 
where it was understood my party would stop, were packed. 
The demonstration was, to all appearances, as hearty and 
as enthusiastic as at Philadelphia on our departure. 

"The Mayor was present with his state carriage, to con- 
vey us to the hotel, and after that to his beautiful country 
residence, some six miles out, where we were entertained 
at dinner with a small party of gentlemen, and remained 



44 GENERAL U. S. GRANT S 

over niglit. The following clay a large party was given at 
the official residence of the Mayor, in the city, at which 
there were some one hundred and fifty of the distinguished 
citizens and officers of the corporation present. Pressing 
invitations were sent from most of the cities of the kingdom 
to have me visit them. I accepted for a day at Alanchester, 
and stojDped a few moments at Leicester, and at one other 
place. The same hearty welcome was shown at each place, 
as you have no doubt seen. 

"The press of the country has been exceedingly kind 
and courteous. So far I have not been permitted to travel 
in a regular train, much less in a common car. The Mid- 
land road, which penetrates a great portion of the island, 
including Wales and Scotland, have extended to me the 
courtesy of their road, and a Pullman car to take me 
wherever I wish to go dui'ing the whole of my stay in' 
England. We arrived in London on Monday evening, the 
30th of May, when I found our Minister had accepted 
engagements for me up to the aytli of June, having but a 
few spare days in the interval. 

"On Saturday last we dined with the Duke of Welling- 
ton, and last night the formal reception at Judge Pierre- 
pont's was held. It was a great success, most brilliant in 
the numbers, rank and attire of the audience, and was 
graced by the presence of every American in the city who 
had called on the minister or left a card for me. I doubt 
whether London has ever seen a private house so elabo- 
rately or tastefully decorated as was our American minis- 
ter's last night. I am deeply indebted to him for the pains 
he has taken to make my stay pleasant, and the attentions 
extended to our country, I appreciate the fact, and am 
proud of it, that the attentions I am receiving are intended 
more for our country than for me personally. I love to see 
our country honored and respected abroad, and I am proud 
to believe that it is by most all nations, and by some even 



TOUR AKOUN'D THE WORLD. 45 

loved. It has always been my desire to see all jealousy 
between England and the United States abated, and every 
sore healed. Together they are more j^owerful for the 
spread of commerce and civilization than all others com- 
bined, and can do more to remove causes of wars by cre- 
ating moral interests that would be so much endangered 
by war. 

"I have written very hastily, and a good deal at length, 
but I trust this will not bore you. Had I written for publi- 
cation, I should have taken more pains. 

"U. S. Grant." 

On the 19th, General and Mrs. Grant, Minister and 
Mrs. Pierrepont, and Consul-General Badeau, dined at 
Marlborough House with the Prince of Wales. The din- 
ner was a full dress affair. Earls Beaconsfield, Derby and 
Granville, and the leading members of the government, 
were present. The ex-President occupied the seat of honor 
at the table. The dinner proved one of the most enjoyable 
since the General's arrival. 

On the 20th, a deputation waited on ex-President Grant 
at General Badeau's house, to present an address and ex- 
press gratitude for his aid in procuring from the government 
of the United States recognition of the claims of Mrs. 
Carroll, whose husband was killed in a naval engagement 
during the American war. The deputation was presented 
by Mr. Mullaly. Dr. Brady, M. P., said he had been 
greatly gratified, as had all Irishmen to whom he had 
spoken, at the reception of General Grant in this country. 

The General said it was very gratifying to him to 
know that a case, no doubt worthy and deserving, had been 
righted, and that this act of justice had been performed un- 
der his government. As to himself, he was simply the 
executive, and could claim no credit in the matter further 
than for having approved what was done. The government 



46 GENERAL U. S. GRANt'S 

of the United States was much like that of England, and 
was divided into three branches, each distinct and independ- 
ent. Of course, his own branch had its share in urging 
the claims of this case, but without legislative action nothing 
could have been done. 

On the 2ist, ex- President Grant dined at the residence 
of Minister Pierrepont. The Prince of Wales was pres- 
ent, attended by Major General Sir Dighton Probyn, con- 
troller of his household. General Grant sat on the right 
of the prince, and Mrs. Pierrepont on the left. Mrs. Grant 
sat opposite the Prince, having the Duke of Richmond on 
her right and Mr. Pierrepont on her left. Mesdames Grant 
and Pierrepont were the only ladies present. The other 
guests were the Turkish, Austrian, German, French, Italia* 
and Russian ambassadors; tne Dukes of Argyle, Welling- 
ton and Westminster; the Marquises of Salisbury, Hertford 
and Lansdowne; the Earls of Beaconsfield, Derby and 
Carnarvon; Earls Granville and Manvers; Lords Cairne, 
Manners and Houghton, also Sir Stafford Northcote; Mr. 
Cross, Home Secretary; Mr. Gawthorne Hardy, Mr. Hop- 
pan, Mr. Beckwith and Jesse Grant. 

On the 22d, a special performance at the London Royal 
Italian Opera was given in honor of General Grant. The 
house was filled. General and Mrs. Grant and Genei^al 
Badcau arrived at half-past eight. The curtain immediately 
rose, disclosing Mile. Albani and the full chorus of the 
company, behind whom was a group of American flags. 
Mile. Albani sang the " Star Spangled Banner," with the 
full chorus and orchestra. General Grant, for the first time 
since his arrival in England, was dressed in the full uniform 
of a major general. The entire audience rose on the Gener- 
al's entrance, and remained standing during the singing, as 
did also the General and wife. After the song was fin- 
ished, he was loudly applauded and bowed in response. 



TOUR AROUND THE WORLD. ^»J 

General Grant was obliged to leave early to go to the 
Queen's ball at Buckingham Palace. The General's box 
was decorated with flowers. 

On the 34th, General Grant was present at a banquet 
given by the corporation of Trinity House. The Prince 
of Wales presided. Prince Leopold, Prince Christian, the 
Prince of Leinington, the Prince of Saxe- Weimar, the 
Duke of Wellington, the Marquis of Hertford, the Earl of 
Derby, the Earl of Carnarvon, Sir Stafford Northcote, 
Mr. Cross, and Chief Justice Sir Alexander Cockburn, 
were among the distinguished company present. 

The Prince of Wales, referring to General Grant, in 
the course of his speech, said : " On the present occasion 
it is a matter of peculiar gratification to us as Englishmen 
to icc-elve as our guest General Graril. I cnii nssure him 
for myself, and for all loyal subjects of the Queen, that it 
has given us the greatest pleasure to see him as a guest in 
this country." 

Eai'l Carnarvon proposed the health of the visitors, and 
coupled with it General Grant's name. 

He said " Strangers of all classes, men of letters, arts, 
science, state, and all that has been most worthy and great, 
have, as it were, come to this center of old civilization. I 
venture, without disparagement to any of those illustrious 
guests, to say that never has there been one to whom we 
willingly accord a freer, fuller, heartier welcome than we 
do to General Grant on this occasion — not merely because 
we believe he has performed the part of a distinguished 
general, nor because he has twice filled the highest office 
which the citizens of his great country can fill, but because 
we look upon him as representing that good will and affec- 
tion which ought to subsist between us and the United 
States. It has been my duty to be connected with the 
great Dominion of Canada, stretching several thousand 
miles along the frontier of the United States, and during 



48 GENERAL U. S. GRANT's 

the last three or four years I can truthfully say that noth- 
ing impressed me more than the interchange of friendly 
and good offices which took place between the two coun- 
tries under the auspices of President Grant." 

General Grant replied that he felt more impressed than 
he had possibly ever felt before on any occasion. He came 
here under the impression that this was Trinity House, and 
that trinity consisted of the army, navy, and peace. He 
thought it was a place of quietude, where there would be 
no talk or toasts. He had been, therefore, naturally sur- 
prised at hearing both. He had heard some remarks from 
His Royal Highness which compelled him to say a word in 
response. He begged to thank His Highness for these 
remarks. There had been other things said during the 
evening highly gratifying to him. Not the least gratify- 
ing was to hear that there were occasionally in this country 
party fights as well as in America. He had seen before 
now a war between three departments of the state, the 
executive, the judicial, and the legislative. He had not 
seen the political parties of England go so far as that. He 
would imitate their chaplain, who had set a good example 
of oratory — that was shortness — and say no more than 
simply thank His Royal Highness and the company on 
behalf of the visitors. 

This reception at Windsor Castle, on the 26th, may be 
regarded as the culmination of the remarkable social atten- 
tions which were bestowed on General Grant in such pro- 
fuse abundance during his visit to England. No such 
honor*",, nor anything approaching them, have ever before 
been paid to an American citizen. While their distinguished 
recipient modestly regards them as a compliment to 
his country rather than to himself, it is pretty safe to say 
that there is no other American citizen through whom such 
honors to our Republic would have been possible. The 
English people feel, as all mankind in all ages have felt, 



TOUR AROUND THE WORLD. 49 

the magic of great military names. It is General Grant's 
resplendent and successful career as a soldier, rather than the 
fact that he has been twice elected the chief magistrate of a 
great country, that has broken down so many social barri- 
ers in his favor. His quiet and undemonstrative personal 
manners have contributed to his favorable reception. He 
is such a contrast to the offensive bumptiousness too often 
exhibited by Americans, that Englishmen are read^' to 
concede a great deal more than he would ever think of 
claiming for himself. While his splendid reception is no 
doubt a compliment to the American people, it is also a great 
personal compliment to the only man who could have 
evoked such a series of demonstrations. 

General Grant and wife left London by the five p. M. 
train from Paddington, and arrived at Windsor at thirty- 
five minutes past five. The Mayor, several members of the 
corporation, and a number of spectators, were assembled 
on the platform to witness the arrival. The General and 
Mrs. Grant, who were accompanied by Minister Pierre- 
pont, were conveyed in one of Her Majesty's carriages to 
the castle, where they were received by the Queen at the 
bottom of the staircase at the Queen's entrance, and con- 
ducted through the state corridor to the white drawing 
room. After a short interview, General Grant and wife 
were conducted to apartments over the Waterloo Gallery, 
overlooking the Home Park. In the evening a grand 
dinner party was given in General Grant's honor. 

Dinner was served in Oak Room, according to custom, 
which reserves St. George's Hall for state banquets. The 
party was small, because etiquette requires that the Queen 
shall converse with every guest. 

The introductions were made as follows: Minister 

Pierrepont, advancing, introduced General Grant; then 

Lord Derby stepped forward with Mrs. Grant. The Queen 

shook hands with them, while the ladies in waiting simply 

4 



50 GENERAL U. S. GRANT S 

bowed. This formality at an end, the gentlemen led the 
way to the Oak Room. The Queen sat at the head of the 
table. On her right were respectively Prince Leopold, 
Princess Christian and General Grant; on her left Prince 
Christian, Princess Beatrice and Minister Pierrepont. Then 
came the Duchess of Wellington, Lord Elphinstone and 
Mrs. Pierrepont; Lord Derby and Mrs. Grant; the Duch- 
ess of Roxburgh and Lord Biddulph; the Countess of 
Derby and Jesse Grant. 

During the dinner, the band of the Grenadier Guards, 
under Dan Godfrey, played in the quadrangle. The en- 
joyment of the party was unconstrained, the Queen taking 
a prominent part in the lively convei^sation, during which 
all kinds of topics were discussed, American and English, 
political and social. The Princess Beatrice is a brilliant 
conversationalist, and she was particularly interesting on 
many American social topics, which she thoroughly under- 
stood. 

Most of the ladies were all dressed in black with white 
trimmings, owing to the deaths recently of the Queen of 
Holland and the Duke of Hesse-Darmstadt. The Queen 
was attired in a similar style, but her toilet comprised a 
very magnificent array of diamonds. 

After dinner, the Queen's party proceeded to the corridor, 
for the purpose of enabling the visitors to examine it more 
closely. Here they met another party from the Octagon, 
and a lively conversation ensued, during which Her Majesty 
talked with every person present. 

At about ten o'clock Her Majesty shook hands with her 
lady guests, bowed to the gentlemen, and retired, followed 
by other members of the royal family present. 

The guests then entered one of the magnificent draw- 
ing-rooms along the east front, where they were enter- 
tained by the Queen's private band. 

Refreshments having been served. General Grant and 



\ 



TOUR AROUND THE WORLD. ^l 

Ministei* Picrrepont played whist with the Duchesses of 
Wellington and Roxburgh, during which, of course, the 
gentlemen were beaten. Mr. Pieri'epont played badly; so 
did the ex-President. 

At half-past eleven o'clock, the Americans retired to the 
rooms, which were in a different part of the palace. 

The following morning, General and Mrs. Grant were 
driven in the great park, in a carriage usually used by the 
Queen, at half7past ten. He, with Americans, accompanied 
by Mr. Ward Hunt, first Lord of the Admiralty, and Colonel 
Gai'diner, went to the station and took the train for Bish- 
op's road (Paddington). 

A state concert was given at Buckingham Palace at 
nighf. General Grant and Mrs. Grant, the Emperor and 
Empress of Brazil, the Prince and Princess of Wales, the 
Duke and Duchess of Teck, Prince Christian and the 
Princess Helena, the Princess Louise and the Marquis of 
Lome and the Duke of Cambridge were present. 

On the 28th, Liverpool again honors General Grant 
with a grand banquet. Upwards of two hundred gentle- 
men, including representatives of all public bodies in the 
town, attended the banquet, which was held in the large 
ballroom of the town hall, and was a very grand affair. 
General Grant, who was in the uniform of a major general, 
was received with the greatest enthusiasiti. He sat on 
the right of the Mayor. Next to Genei-al Grant sat Lieu- 
tenant General Sir Henry de Bathe, commander of the 
forces in the northern district. 

The Mayor, proposing General Grant's health, spoke 
of the sterling qualities he possessed as a soldier, which had 
enabled him to restore peace and prosperity to his country. 
General Grant, responding, said the reception he encoun- 
tered in Great Bi-itain was far beyond his expectation, and 
was such as any living person might well be proud of. He 
believed, however, that it was indicative of the friendly 



53 GENERAL U. S. GRANt'S 

relations which existed between two peoples, who were of 
one kindred blood and civilization. He hoped that friend- 
ship would continue to be cultivated and long endure. 
Referring to some remarks relative to the British army, he 
said there were as many soldiers now at Aldershott as in 
the regular army of the United States, which had a frontier 
of thousands of miles; but if necessary the United States 
could raise volunteers, and he and Mr. Fairchild were 
examples of what those volunteers were. 

On the 30th, General Grant attended a dinner given by 
a personal friend belonging to the American press, at 
Grosvenor Hotel. The company nuinbered forty, consist- 
ing chiefl}'' of distinguished journalists of the London press, 
and authors. There were no speeches, the dinner being 
strictly a social and private one. 

On the 3d of Jul}'^, a deputation of forty men, each 
representing a different trade, and representing altogether 
about one million English v/orkingmen, waited upon Gen- 
eral Grant at Consul General Badeau's house, and presented 
him an address, welcoming him to England, and assuring 
him of their good wishes and deep regard for the welfare 
and progress of America, where British workmen had al- 
ways found a welcome. Impromptu speeches were then 
made by various members of the deputation, all of which 
were extremely cordial. 

General Grant replied as follows: " In the name of 
my country, I thank you for the address you have pre- 
sented to me. I feel it a great compliment paid my gov- 
ernment and one to mc personally. Since my arrival on 
British soil I have received great attentions, which were 
intended, I feel sure, in the same way, for my country. I 
have had ovations, free hand-shakings, presentations from 
difTcrcn*" classes, from the government, from the controlling 
authorities of cities, and have been received in the cities by 
the populace, but there has been no reception which I ara 



TOUR AROUMD THE WORLD. 53 

prouder of than this to-day. I recognize the fact that what- 
ever there is of greatness in the United States, as indeed in any 
otlier country, is due to lal^or. The laborer is the author 
of all greatness and wealth. Witliout labor there would 
be no government, or no leading class, or nothing to pre- 
serve. With us, labor is regarded as highly respectable. 
AVhen it is not so regarded, it is because man dishonors 
labor. We recognize that labor dishonors no man; and, no 
matter what a man's occupation is, he is eligible to fill any 
post in the gift of the people; his occupation is not consid- 
ered in selecting, whether as a law maker or as an executor 
of the lawv Now, gentlemen, in conclusion, all I can do 
is to renew my thanks for the address, and repeat what I 
have said before, that I have received nothing from any 
class since my arrival which has given me more pleasure." 

After the speech there was an informal exchange of 
courtesies, and the deputation then withdrew. 

In the evening, a banquet was given by the United 
Service Club. The Duke of Cambridge presided, having 
on his right General Grant and Lord Hampton, and on his 
left Minister Pierrepont and Lord Strathnalrn. Admiral 
Sir Charles Eden was the vice-president, having on his 
right Sir George Sartorios, and General Sir William 
Codington on his left. There was a very full attendance 
of guests. 

The Duke of Cambridge proposed the health of Gen- 
eral Grant. The General, in reply, alluded to the visit of 
the Prince of Wales to the United States. He said he 
knew from all his friends, as well as of his own personal 
knowledge, that His Royal Highness was received, as the 
son of England's Queen, with the sincerest respect. He 
thanked the company for their hospitality, which was one 
of the greatest honors he had received. 

On the 4th, a reception was given at the American 
Legation, which was a social event of a very high order, and 



54 GENERAL U. S. GRANT's 

very enjoyable throughout. It lasted from four until sever* 
o'clock. Nearly all the Americans in London, estimated 
at over one thousand, called during that time. A large 
silk American flag hung over the entrance, and the interior 
was beautifully decorated with flowers. Mr. and Mrs» 
Pierrepont, General and Mrs. Grant, received all the guests. 
The reception closed with the singing of the " Star Span- 
gled Banner " by Miss Abel, an American. 

On the 5th, General and Mrs. Grant, their son, and 
General Badeau, left London for the continent. They were 
accompanied to the station by a number of friends, and the 
parting was most enthusiastic. With the exception of 
brief stops at Tunbridge and Ashford, there was nothing 
worthy of note. 

A large crowd had collected at the Folkestone station 
when the train arrived, and as General Grant alighted he 
was loudly cheered. The Mayor's carriage was in waiting, 
and the party were driven to the town hall. Here the 
Mayor received them in his robes of office, surrounded by 
the members of the town council and a large number of 
citizens. As the clerk to the corporation read the address, 
the whole assemblage remained standing. The address 
recited the idea of honoring the General for his deeds in 
the battle-field, and concluded by expressing the wish that 
he might have a third term as President of the United 
States, and advancing the opinion that he would. In his 
reply the ex-President ignored this. He thanked them, as 
he said he did all their countrymen, for their kindness and 
courtesy. He believed it would be to the mutual interests 
of the two great English-speaking nations to maintain the 
friendly relations which now existed. England and 
America must lead in commerce and civilization. He also 
expressed his gratification at the settlement of the Alabama 
claims, which had been referred to. But he carefully 
avoided any allusion to politics. 



TOUR AROUND THE WORLD. 55 

The reception over, the party started at once for the pier, 
where the steamer Vittoria was waiting to convey them to 
Ostend, Belgium. The American flag was seen flying 
among the shipping in the harbor, in honor of the town's 
guest. A great crowd had gathered again at the pier, and 
cheered loudly as the Vittoria left and passed out into the 
straits, the General bowing repeatedly from the bridge 
of the steamer. General Grant's stay in England had been 
made pleasant by honors which were extremely gratifying 
to Americans. His excellent taste in ignoring the toady- 
ism of the Englishman at Folkestone, shows how quickly 
the General could resent such a piece of impertinence, and 
that he thought, correctly, that foreigners have no business 
with our politics. 



CHAPTER V. 



ON THE CONTINENT. 

General Grant arrived at Brussels, Belgium, at six o'clock 
on the evening of July 6, and proceeded to the Bellevue Hotel. 
No official reception was given him, as it was understood 
that he was traveling incognito. Within an hour of his 
arrival, an aide-de-camp of King Leopold visited the Gen- 
eral, conveying from his royal master an invitation to din- 
ner, and placing at his disposal his aides and the carriage of 
state. In the evening General Grant dined with ex-Minis- 
ter Sanford. Several Belgian functionaries were in attend- 
ance at the board. 

On the 8th, General Grant dined with the King and 
royal family; all the high officials of state and foreign min- 
isters were present. King Leopold took Mrs. Grant to 
•dinner, and the ex-President had the honor of escorting the 
Queen. On Sunday the King paid the General a visit, a 
step which is considered by the Belgians as being a great 
honor, as it is entirely out of the usual course. The Gen- 
eral and Mrs. Grant visited the King and Queen in the after- 
noon. On Monday morning all the foreign ministers in 
Brussels called on the General, previous to his departure. 
The King's aide-de-camp and members of the American 
legation accompanied the party to the railway station. 
During General Grant's stay he was treated with the great- 
est distinction. 

On the 9th, General Grant arrived at Cologne, and was 
received at the railway station by the American Consul, 



\ 



TOUR AROUND THE WORLD. 57 

President of Police, and the civil and military governors of 
the city, the Emperor having commanded that every atten- 
tion should be paid to their honored guest. At Cologne 
the General visited several churches and the cathedral, and 
made an excursion over the suspension bridge to Deutz, 
returning by the bridge of boats. In the evening he was 
serenaded at the Hotel du Nord, by a military band. 

On the loth, he left Cologne, and proceeded up the 
river Rhine, stopping at Bingen, Coblentz and Weisbaden, 
reaching Frankfort on the i3th, where a grand reception 
was given him at the Palmer-garten; the burgomaster 
presided, and one hundred and twenty guests were present. 
This included all the prominent officials of the town, offi- 
cers of the garrison, and leading citizens. The banquet 
hall was beautifully illuminated and decorated. After the 
toasts to the Emperor and President Hayes had been drunk 
arid duly responded to, Henry Seligman, the banker, pro- 
posed the health of General Grant. Mr. Seligman, in giving 
the toast, made a few appropriate remarks, in the course of 
which he said that the General was universally honored and 
esteemed. General Grant, in reply, thanked the city of 
Frankfort for the confidence it placed in the Union during 
the late civil war. He concluded by drinking to the wel- 
fare and prosperity of the city. At the conclusion of this 
short speech, the General was given a magnificent ovation. 
The guests rose to their feet and cheered lustily, and the 
crowd outside, numbei"ing six thousand people, caught up 
the cheer, and were enthusiastic in their demonstrations of 
welcome. 

After the conclusion of the banquet, a grand ball was 
given, at which the elite of the city was present. Jessr 
Grant opened the ball with an American lady. 

On the following day, General Grant visited Hamburg, 
and held a reception, the chief burgomaster presenting the 
guests. A grand concert was given in the grounds of the 



58 GENERAL U. S. GRANT'S 

zoological garden afterward, which was attended by many 
thousands of people. 

On the 16th, General Grant spent several days in the 
immediate vicinity of Lucerne and Interlaken, Switzerland, 
whence he made excursions to the mountains in the vicin- 
ity. On the 24th, we find him at Berne, Switzerland, 
where he was received by the President of the Swiss Con- 
federation. On the 27th, he was at Geneva, where he laid 
the corner stone of a new American Protestant church in 
that city. Large crowds were present, and hundreds of 
American flags were displaj^ed from the windows of citi- 
zens' houses. The authorities of the city, and also the 
English and American clergymen of Geneva, were present. 
Speeches complimentary to General Grant were made by 
M. Carteret, President of Geneva, and by several of the 
principal clergymen. General Grant said, in replying to 
the toast given to America, that the greatest honor he had 
received since landing in Europe was to be among Amer- 
icans, and in a republic, and in a city where so great a serv- 
ice had been rendered to the Americans by a Swiss citizen 
in the settlement of a question which might have produced 
war, but which left no rancor on either side. On the 30th, 
the General left Geneva for the North Italian lakes, thence 
to Ragatz, where he spent several days for rest and recuper- 
ation with his brother-in-law, M. J. Cramer, American 
Minister to Denmark. 

On the 5th of August, General Grant went to Pallanza, 
on Lake Maggiore; thence to Lake Como, stopping at 
Bellagio; thence to Varese. At each of these points he 
was received with great enthusiasm, his stay being one 
grand round of festivities, each city seeming to vie with the 
other in the hospitalities offered. At Lake Maggiore, ad- 
dresses were made by the Mayor and an officer who served 
under General Garibaldi. General Grant, in his reply, re- 
ferred to the exceeding hospitality he had received, praised 



TOUR AROUND "fllE WORLD. 59 

the general conduct of the people so far as he had seen 
them, expressed his delight at the grand and lovely scenes 
that had met his eye at every turn since he had crossed the 
Alps, and concluded by saying, " There is one Italian whose 
hand 1 wish especially to shake, and that man is General 
Garibaldi." This allusion was greeted with a perfect storm 
of applause. 

On the 1 8th, the General visited Copenhagen, where 
he was received with distinguished honors, and at Antwerp 
a like cordial reception was given. 

On the 25th, he returned to England, having made a 
hurried and fatiguing continental tour, where he rested, 
previous to accepting the urgent and flattering invitation to 
visit Scotland. 

The fact that General Grant is named Ulysses, and 
that, in making " the grand tour," has suggested a classic 
comparison to the good-natured jokers of the obvious. It 
seems, too, as though the General had determined to keep 
up the character of the wandering king of Ithaca; for the 
heavy English journals, after slowly lifting their eyebrows 
to the point of astonishment that Ulysses the Silent could 
speak at all, have found the word " wise " to apply to what 
he did utter. Indeed, one of them believed that the term 
silent was ironical, and as proof quoted from " his remark- 
able speech " that sentence about fighting it out on a certain 
line if it took all summer. Perhaps if we use a society 
phrase, and say that General Grant has been " happy " in his 
recent after-dinner utterances, we shall come nearer the 
mark. When there are certain unpleasant topics that might 
be touched on, it is " happy " to avoid them at such times; 
and when the speaker who ignores them plunges into plati- 
tudes about " common blood and kindred peoples," he may 
be called felicitous when he is only politely adroit. In 
England, for instance, the General kept clear of blockade 
runners and Confederate scrip, and, when the Alabama was 



6o GENERAL U. S. GRANT's 

forced before him, only touched on that piratical craft as a 
sort of blessing in disguise to both peoples. On the other 
hand, he was overwhelmingly unctuous in calling the En- 
glish our blood relations, making the glasses dance on the 
festive board with the thunderous applause he evoked from 
noble lords and lofty commoners. 

In Frankfort, however, he had a chance to say a 
"happy" thing, and he said it. In Frankfort they bought 
our bonds, when it was vital to the nation that our securi- 
ties should find purchasers. To be sure, they made a good 
thing of it, for they bought them cheap; but England and 
poor generals had cheapened them. Hence it was a " hap- 
py" thing for the soldier who brought our "boys" and our 
bonds "out of the wilderness" — the former to Richmond, 
and the latter to par and beyond — to tell the Frankforters 
how well they had stood by the Union in its darkest days. 
There was much good German blood spilled in the cause 
of the Union, so that his hearers were aware that the Gen- 
eral referred to heart-strings as well as purse-strings in his 
compliment to them. So, also, at Geneva, his compliment 
to the representative whose "casting vote" turned the 
scales in the Geneva award was not forgotten ; in fact, the 
General seemed to be in a "happy" vein, complimenting 
without stint. This change, or rather drawing out of Gen- 
eral Grant's thoughts, will surprise none more than his inti- 
qnate friends, who have known him only by works, not 
words. 



CHAPTER VI. 



RETURN TO GREAT BRITAIN. 

The freedom of the city of Edinburgh was presented to 
General Grant on the 31st of August. He left London in 
a Pullman car. On the way from London — four hundred 
miles — the scenery was exceedingly attractive. All through 
England and in the south of Scotland, the country is a 
perfect garden, and only when you get among the chilly 
hills, valleys and crags of northern Scotland, do you feel 
that you are getting into the open country. What a pity 
that there are no forests to cover these beautiful and historic 
mountains, where in centuries gone by the horns of the 
leaders summoned the clans to bloody work! 

The reception given to General Grant as each station 
was reached, was whole-souled and fully meant hospitality. 
At Carlisle — the dinner stopping-place — at Galashiels, Mel- 
rose, Harwick, and a number of smaller towns in Scotland, 
there were expressions of joy and enthusiasm that reminded 
one of the railroad receptions that General Grant gets at the 
towns of Illinois and Ohio. It seemed as though they knew 
him perfectly well — his face, his histoiy, etc. — for they 
recognized him everywhere, and demanded as much hand- 
shaking as could be done in the limited time the train was 
to stay. Then the cheers and hurrahs always sounded in 
the distance above the whistle of the locomotive. Mrs. 
Grant was quite cheerful and talkative. She looked very 
much better than when she left Washington, though she 
said she was always in good health there. Washington 



62 GENERAL U. S. GRANT'S 

has a slightly malarial atmosphere, and the complexion of a 
Washingtonian changes for the better after a trip to 
Europe. She enjoyed her European trip. She said her 
lines of association there had always fallen in pleasant 
places, and that she had been greatly pleased with every 
acquaintance she made in Europe. Mrs. Grant is a quiet, 
rather reserved lady, but one who impresses her associates 
by her kind nature, her broad views upon the subject under 
discussion, be it commonplace or important, and her sensible 
ideas of life. She sprang from one of the best families of 
the Mississippi Valley, well known and highly respected 
since a hundred years and more ago, and her early training 
was not lost. All the ladies who met her and became her 
acquaintances at the White House, loved her, from first to 
last. 

The freedom of the city of Edinburgh was presented 
to ex-President Grant by Lord Provost Sir James Falshaw, 
in Free Assembly Hall, two thousand persons being pres- 
ent. In reply to the Lord Provost's speech, General Grant 
said: 

" I am so filled with emotion that I scarcely know how 
to thank you for the honor conferred upon me by making 
me a burgess of this ancient city of Edinburgh. I feel 
that it is a great compliment to me and to my country. 
Had I the proper eloquence, I might dwell somewhat on 
the history of the great men you have produced, on the 
numerous citizens of this city and of Scotland who have 
gone to America, and the record they have made. We are 
proud of Scotchmen as citizens of America. They make 
good citizens of our country, and they find it profitable to 
themselves. I again thank you for the honor conferred 
upon me." 

On September ist. General Grant and party visited Tay 
Bridge. One of the most striking features of the view 
obtained from the deck of the little steamer is that of the 



TOUR AROUND THE WORLD. 63 

bridge itaelf, which, as seen from some little distance, com- 
bines massiveness with airiness of structure, impressing one 
even more than the almost fairy-like span of the Menai 
tubular bridge, or the larger and equally reputed, though 
perhaps less elegant, viaduct across the Hollandsche Dicp. 

A few minutes' sailing brought the party to Wormi 
Pier, on the south side of the river, and immediately under 
the first span of Mr. Bouch's grand structure. At this 
place Admiral Maitland Dougal, Mr. Matthew McDougal, 
United States Consul at Dundee, and ex-Provost Ewan, 
Dundee, were in waiting to do honor to the General, not to 
speak of a numerous concourse of the public, comprising 
seemingly most of the workmen connected with the bridge, 
as well as many persons from the neighboring villages. 
After landing. General Grant, Mrs. Grant and some others 
were conducted to one of the rooms in the contractor's 
offices, where Mr, Grothe, the resident engineer, explained, 
with the aid of models and diagrams, the manner in which 
the large piers of the bridge were constructed, mentioning 
fii'st that the bridge was designed on what is known as the 
lattice girder principle, and then stating that the piers were 
built on shore, floated out between two barges to the de- 
sired position ni the river, sunk to a suitable foundation, and 
then brought up to high water mark. By means of an- 
other working model, the manner In which the girders were 
transported from the shore was illustrated, it being shown 
that the tide was the motive power by which masses of 
iron work weighing as much as two hundred tons were 
moved. The method by which these girders were raised 
from the river to the required height of eighty-eight feet 
above high water mark, through the agency of hydraulic 
apparatus, was also explained. 

Describing the work generally, Mr. Grothe said there 
were in all eighty-five spans, thirteen of which, over the 
navigable part of the river, were each two hundred and 



64 GENERAL U. S. GRANT'S 

forty-five feet in length, and carried neai'ly two hundred 
tons weight, while the smaller ones on either side of the 
channel were from sixty-seven to one hundred and forty- 
five feet long. It was further stated that considerable 
progress had been made with the works during the present 
season, and especially during the last month, nine spans of 
an aggregate weight of more than nine hundred tons hav- 
ing been lifted and fixed in their places within the latter 
period — a feat which has been accomplished by almost in- 
cessant work. In concluding his remarks, Mr. Grothe 
stated that in the winter the shortness of the day had of 
course been found very much against the progress of the 
work, and that to get over this difficulty there were used 
powerful electric lights, the currents for which were gener- 
ated by magneto-electric machines driven by a four-horse- 
power engine. It was added that the bridge was nearly 
completed, all the spans up forming a continuous line, and 
the fixing of timber and laying of rails on the top at pres- 
ent actively carried on. 

On the 7th September, General Grant was presented with 
the freedom of the city of Wick, and, in accepting, said : 
" During the eight years of my Presidency it was my only 
hope, which I am glad to say was realized, that all differ- 
ences between the two nations should be healed in a manner 
honorable to both. In my desire for that result it was my 
aim to do what was right, irrespective of any other consid- 
eration whatever. During all the negotiations, I felt the 
importance of maintaining friendly relations between the 
great English speaking peoples, which I believe to be essen- 
tial to the maintenance of peace and principle throughout 
the world." 

On the 8th, at Inverness, General Grant was presented 
with the freedom of the city, and a great reception given 
him. 

Ex-President Grant received the freedom of the city of 



TOUR AROUND THE WORLD. 65 

Glasgow on the 13th. Replying to the address of the Lord 
Provost, he said that he would ever remember the day, and 
when back in America would refer with pride to his visit to 
Glasgow. He was so much a citizen of Scotland that it 
would be a serious question where he would vote. He 
thanked the Lord Provost for his kind words and the audi- 
ence for its welcome. The parchment was contained in a 
gold casket. The ceremony was witnessed by a large crowd, 
and the General was enthusiastically cheered. A banquet in 
his honor was given in the evening, but was of a private 
character. 

The reception of General Grant in Scotland was hearty 
and continuously enthusiastic. There was not a day since 
the General came to Scotland that he was not overwhelmed 
with kindnesses. 

The enthusiasm of the Scotch people and the great atten- 
tion shown to General Grant have a double significance. 
The people of Scotland sympathized with the North during the 
civil war, and always rejoiced when Grant or his generals 
won a victory. They have been curious to see the great man 
they have talked so much about, and take great pride in the 
fact that he is of Scotch descent. Plence the magnificent 
ovations at Edinburgh, Dundee, Melrose, Ayr, Glasgow, 
the Trossachs, and all the places at which he stopped. 

The finest and most enthusiastic reception was given at 
Glasgow. An immense hall, accommodating several thou- 
sand persons, was, all but places for four hundred specially 
invited guests, thrown open to the public. The cheering 
was so general and continuous that the ceremonies could 
only with difficulty be heard. At night the grand banquet 
at corporation hall was a splendid affair, embracing in the 
menu the viands and wines that make the best dinner Scot- 
land could furnish. Even tropical delicacies were in profu- 
sion, and the wines were exceptionally fine and in great vari- 
5 



66 GENERAL U. S. GRANx's 

ety. Several toasts were given, and speeches followed up to 
eleven o'clock. 

At this banquet the Lord Provost announced that there 
were no reporters present, and the editors there were 
expected to let the speeches pass without comment, in order 
that everybody could feel perfectly free in speaking. General 
Grant, on this account, probably, made the longest speech of 
his life, and the Lord Provost was finally, at the end of the 
feast, persuaded to yield his position against newspaper enter- 
prise. 

The speech of General Grant was brought about by a 
speech of Mr. Anderson, M. P., of Glasgow, wherein he 
charged, turning to General Grant, that the United States 
had gained a victory over Great Britain in the creation of the 
Geneva arbitration. However, he said, Great Britain had 
agreed to the Washington treaty, and while disappointed 
with the result at Geneva, had stood manfully by it. In view 
of this, and the fact that the United States had completed 
the distribution of the award, and had some $8,000,000 left 
after all claims had been satisfied, he would be pleased to see 
the government return that amount in the interests of con- 
cord and thorough amity. This was said in a half earnest, 
half joking way, but was met with " hear, hear," all along 
the tables. 

General Grant in reply said that he had a great deal 
to do with the negotiations concerning the Washington 
treaty, and that he had always felt that our government had 
3'ielded too much to Great Britain in the matter. He was 
determined, however, from the first, that, if possible, the 
experiment of peaceful arbitration should prevail. It was 
his ambition to live to see all national disputes settled in 
this way. " I am called a man of war," said he, " but I 
never was a man of war. Though I entered the army at 
an early age, I got out of it whenever I found a chance to 



TOUR AROUND THE VvORLD. 67 

do SO creditaLly. I was always a riTan of peace, and I shall 
always continue of that mind. Though I may not live to 
see the general settlement of national disputes by arbitra- 
tion, it will not be very many years before that system of 
settlement will be adopted, and the immense standing 
armies that are depressing Europe by their great expense 
will be disbanded, and the arts of war almost forgotten in the 
general devotion of the people to the development of peace- 
ful industries. I want to see, and I believe I will, Great 
Britain, the United States and Canada joined with com- 
mon purpose in the advance of civilization, an invincible 
community of English-speaking nations that all the world 
beside could not conquer." The General went on in this 
vein for some time, and finally again touched the Alabama- 
claims question. He said: " There was one point in con- 
nection with that matter that I was glad we yielded — that 
was the indirect damage claim. I was always opposed to 
it, because I feared the future consequences of such a 
demand. In any future arbitration we would have been 
placed at a great disadvantage by its allowance. After 
that was settled we made our other demands, you made 
yours. It was a long time before the Joint High Commis- 
sion came together, but each side yielded here a bit and 
there a bit, until about as good a treaty as we could expect 
to get was completed. Mr. Anderson says many of the 
people of Great Britain believe we got the best of the 
bargain. I can assure you that we did not come out of the 
discussion as much benefited as we should have been. 
Many of our people w^ere quite incensed, and fought the 
confirmation of the treaty, claiming that its terms were not 
broad enough to cover the losses of local interests, but a 
very large majority determined to stand by it in the inter- 
ests of peace 'and manly dealing with friends. We yielded 
more than we intended to yield, but had gone so far i:ito 
the business of doing what we advocated that nine-tenihs 



68 GENERAL U. S. GRANt'S 

of our people had no desire to recede. We did not want 
war, or even a new arbitration. We had been satisfied 
with the former, and the latter meant delay. We wanted 
the question settled peacefully, at once and forever. As to 
the $S,ooo,ooo surplus ISIr. Anderson mentions, I will 
explain that briefly. After the $15,500,000 awarded at 
Geneva was paid by Great Britain, the matter of its dis- 
tribution was presented to Congress. It became necessary 
to distribute it under the terms of the treaty, and it was 
found that if the insurance companies which had received 
war premiums were admitted to participation in the sum, it 
would not be large enough to go around. So they and 
other parties were excluded. Congress will legislate 
further in the matter, and the money will be distributed to 
rightful claimants, so that it will not be necessary to discuss 
the question of returning it to Great Britain." The 
General explained the workings of the S3'stem of dis- 
tributing the money, details of fact that are familiar to all 
Americans. We cannot reproduce his speech in full, because 
lead pencils and note books were prohibited. But the 
above, with expressive remarks touching his magnificent 
receptions in Scotland, and the renewed expressions of good 
feeling between Great Britain and the United States, is his 
speech in carefully prepared substance. At the end of it, 
the entire party, of perhaps two hundred persons, ap- 
plauded to the echo, and in this applause Mr. Anderson 
was one of the most ardent participants. 

General Grant's visit to Newcastle-on-Tyne, on the 
2 1st, was the occasion of a most enthusiastic and remarkable 
demonstration. During the day the visitors visited the 
Exchange and other places of interest in Newcastle. 
There were numerous banners along the' route, and large 
crowds of spectators. In the Exchange, General Grant 
received an address from the Chamber of Commerce, and, 
replying, thanked the large and enthusiastic audience for its 



TOUR AROUND THE WORLD. 69 

kind reception, which was highly gratifying to him and the 
American people, who would accept it as a token of friend- 
ship between the two nations — he could not say two peo- 
ples, for they were really one, having a common destiny, 
which would be brilliant in proportion to their friendship, 
lie referred to the honorable settlement of all differences 
between England and America, and said they ought not 
only keep peace with each other, but with all the world, 
anil by their example stop the wars which are now devasta- 
ting Europe. The speech was loudly cheered. General 
Grant and the corporation then proceeded down the Tyne 
in a steamer, which was saluted with guns from almost 
every factory on the banks, every available spot on which 
was crowded with people. General Grant stood on the 
bridge of the steamer (hiring the greater part of the voyage, 
bowing in response to repeated cheers. The steamer 
stopped at Jarrow and Tynemouth, at both of which places 
the municipal authorities presented most cordial addresses. 
The ceremony was witnessed by large and enthusiastic 
crowds. General Grant made suitable replies, of similar 
tenor to his Newcastle speech. At Tynemouth he said he 
had that day seen one hundred and fifty thousand people 
leave their homes and occupations to manifest friendship 
to America. The ex-President held a reception at New- 
castle in the evening. 

A great demonstration of the workmen of Northum- 
berland and Durham was held on the town moor of New- 
castle in honor of General Grant. Twenty-two trade 
societies participated in a procession, which occupied twenty 
minutes in passing a given point. The number of persons 
present on the moor was estimated at from forty to fifty 
thousand. The demonstration had no precedent since 
the great political meetings at the time of the Reform 
Agitation. Mr. Thomas Burt, member of Parliament for 
Morpeth, presented an eulogistic address to General Grant, 



70 GENEUAi. o. ». grant's 

who said he thanked the vvorkingmen for their very wel- 
come address, and thought this recejDtion was the most 
honorable he could meet with. Alluding to what Mr. 
Burt had said concerning the late civil war, General Grant 
declared he had always been "an advocate of peace, but when 
war was declared he went to the war for the cause which 
he believed to be right, and fought to the best of his ability 
to secure peace and safety to the nation. In regard to the 
relations between America and England, the General said 
that friendship now existed between the two countries, 
which he fully believed was increasing, and which would, 
in common with industry and civilization, increase in the 
future. - 

On the same day the Mayor and Town Council of 
Gateshead presented the ex-President with a congratulatory 
address. General Grant expressed pleasure at his enthusi- 
astic reception in all the towns in the North of England, 
and said he was glad the good feeling between England 
and America was warmer to-day. than it had ever been. 
A banquet was given in honor of General Grant in the 
evening, by the Mayor of Newcastle. In response to a 
toast to his health, the General said his reception in New- 
castle exceeded anything he had expected, and had been 
the warmest and best he had had or could have had. 

General Grant was met at Sunderland railway station 
by the Mayor and Messrs. Gourley and Burt, members of 
Parliament. The day was observed as almost a general 
holiday. Nearly ten thousand members of trade and 
friendly societies marched in procession. General Grant 
was present at the laying of the foundation stone of the 
library and museum. Replying to an address of the friendly 
and trade societies, General Grant said he would simply 
renew what he had said relative to the way in which labor 
was regarded in the United States, and the way in which 
he personally regarded it. 



TOUR AROUND THE WORLD. Jl 

At Leamington, Warwick, a grand reception was given 
General Grant, and participated in by the Mayor and lead- 
ing citizens. 

On an-iving at Sheffield, on the 26th, General Grant 
was received at the railway station by the Mayor and cor- 
poi^ation. A procession then formed to the Cutlers' Hall, 
where congratulatory addresses were presented by the Cor- 
porated Cutlers' Company and the Chamber of Commerce, 
to which General Grant briefly replied, referred to the 
American tariff, and reminded his hearers that the United 
States had to raise money to pay off the great debt incurred 
by the war. The revenue from imports was regarded solely 
as the means of attaining that end. If the United States 
were to abolish the revenue from imports, foreign bond- 
holders would very soon cry out when their interest was 
not forthcoming. He added: "We get along well enough 
with the payment of our debt, and will compete with you 
in your manufactures in the markets of the world. The 
more of your merchants and mechanics that goto America, 
the better. Nothing pleases us more than the immigration 
of the industry and intelligence of this community. We 
have room for all, and will try to treat you as you have 
treated me to-day." The General was loudly cheered. 

The following evening a grand banquet was given in 
his honor by the Mayor and corporation of Sheffield. The 
proceedings were most enthusiastic and cordial. 

General Grant arrived at Stratford-on-Avon on the 2Sth, 
and met with a brilliant reception. His visit was made the 
occasion of a festival, in which the whole town took part. 
The houses were decorated with flags, among which the 
American colors were conspicuous. The stars and stripes 
were displayed from the Town Hall and the Mayor's resi- 
dence. The Mayor and members of the corporation re- 
ceived the General and Mrs. Grant, who were accompanied 



72 GENERAL U. S. GRANT's 

by General Badeau, at the railway station, and escorted 
them to Shakespeare's birthplace. Thence the party pro- 
ceeded to the Museum, the church, Anne Hathaway's cot- 
tage, and other places of interest. 

The distinguished visitors were subsequently entertained 
at a public lunch in the Town Hall. A toast to the health 
of General Grant was proposed and drank with cheers, 
and he was presented with a very cordial address, enclosed 
in a casket made from the wood of the mulberry tree 
planted by Shakespeare. The General, replying to the 
toast, spoke most heartily of the welcome given him. He 
'declared it would have been impossible for him to leave 
-England without visiting the birthplace and home of 
Shakespeare. He pointed to the numerous American 
Shakespearian societies as proof of the hopor paid the poet 
in the United States. 

General Grant and wife spent several days visiting their 
daughter, Mrs. Sartoris, at Southampton. 

On the 6th October, the corporation of the city received 
him, presenting a complimentary address. At Torquay, 
Mr. Alfred D. Jessup, of Philadelphia, gave a brilliant re- 
ception, the leading residents and noblemen of Torquay 
.and vicinity being present. 

On the 1 6th, General Grant and party visited Birming- 
ham. On their arrival, they were received by the Mayor, 
:and driven to the Town Hall, where the Town Council, a 
deputation of workingmen, and the Peace Society, pre- 
sented the General with addresses, which he briefly ac- 
knowledged. He was the guest of Mr. Chamberlain, 
M. P. The following evening General Grant was enter- 
tained at a banquet, the Mayor presiding. After the health 
of the Queen was drank, the Mayor proposed that of the 
President of the United States, as a potentate all should 
honor. This was received with due honor by the company. 



TOUR AROUND THE WORLD. 7J 

Mr. Chamberlain, M. P., then proposed the health of ex- 
President Grant in a happy sjDcech, complimentary to the 
distinguished guest and his countrymen. 

General Grant, in response, referring to the last speak- 
er's allusion to the prompt disbandment of the army after 
the civil war, said : " We Americans claim so much per- 
sonal independence and general intelligence that I do not 
believe it possible for one man to assume any more author- 
ity than the constitution and laws give him." As to the re- 
marks that had been made as to the benefits which would 
accrue to America by the establishment of free trade, the 
General said he had a kind of recollection that England 
herself had a protective tariff until her manufactures were 
established. American manufactures were rapidly pro- 
gressing, and America was thus becoming a great free 
trade nation. [Laughter.] The General then warmly 
thanked the company for the reception they had given 
him. 

General Grant found the labor of accepting the hospi- 
tality of his English fi'iends more arduous than the cares 
of State. It had, in fact, become so great a tax upon his 
health that from the first of October he had determined to 
retire to private life, and that the first thing he would do 
would be to avail himself of the courtesy extended by the 
Secretary of the Navy, to visit the Mediterranean in one 
of the vessels of the European squadron, and spend some 
time in the waters of Italy. 



CHAPTER VII. 



GRANT IN PARIS. 

Ex-President Grant, accompanied by his wife and son, 
left London for Paris on the morning of October 24, 1877. 
On the arrival of the General and party at the railway sta- 
tion in Charing Cross, to take the train for Folkestone, he 
was greeted by a large crowd of Americans and English- 
men, who gave him a hearty cheer as he stepped out of his 
carriage. A special train was in waiting to convey the dis- 
tinguished party. The large space in front of the hotel 
and station, extending through to Trafalgar square, was 
filled with vehicles and pedestrians. After considerable 
hand-shaking in the waiting-room, and lively greetings on 
the platform. Sir Edward Watkin, the chairman of the 
Southeastern Railway Company, being in attendance, he 
and his guests boarded the train, which moved off precisely 
at ten o'clock. After a pleasant run of about two hours 
the train arrived at Folkestone, where General Grant was 
met at the wharf by the Mayor and members of the Com- 
mon Council; and fully two thousand of the inhabitants of 
this old Kentish town welcomed the ex-President with 
loud cheers. The General at once went on board the spe- 
cial yacht Victoria, accompanied by the Herald correspond- 
ent. Sergeant Gazelee, and one or two other officials, these 
being the only guests. As the trim-looking yacht, with 
the American flag flying at its fore, lefl the chalk cliffs of 
old England, the General stood upon the bridge and waved 
his hat, responsive to the cheers and adieus from the shore. 



^ TOUR AROUND THE WORLD. 75 

The sea was calm, with only a gentle swell, and a fine 
summer yachting breeze prevailed. The General paced 
the deck, enjoying his cigar and studying the interesting 
points and scenery along the majestic cliffs on the south- 
eastern coast, where William the Conquerer landed and 
fought the battle of Hastings. On nearing the French 
coast he beheld the sunny hills and shores of the memora- 
ble site of Napoleon's Boulogne camp, where the Auster- 
litz army so long prepared for the invasion of England. 

The Victoria arrived at the Boulogne wharf at a quar- 
• ter to two o'clock. A large crowd of Frenchmen, who had 
been advised of the arrival oi\.\\& grand guerrier Americain^ 
was in attendance, and received the guests with a hearty greet- 
ing. On entering the special train, the sub-Prefect of the 
Department met and was mtroduced to the General. In 
the name of the Marshal-President and of the French peo- 
ple, he welcomed him to the shores of France. 

The General expressed his warm acknowledgments, 
saying he had long cherished the wish to visit France, and 
he was delighted with the present opportunity. M. Hoguet- 
Grandsire, the Senator representing the Department of the 
Pas de Calais, also bade him welcome in a brief address, 
full of sympathy and kindly feeling. 

After a long delay, somewhat in contrast to the prompt- 
ness of the English railroads, the train started for Paris. 
On the way the General studied closely the scenery of the 
lovely country along the route, noted the principal indus- 
trial sections, and especially observed the wonderful agri- 
cultural resources of the country. 

General Grant spoke a great deal about his reception 
in England; that it had been unvarying in warmth, and, as 
to the hospitality of the people there, nothing could be 
more kind, considerate and gracious. Everywhere he had 
experienced, both in official and private circles, courtesy 



*]6 GENERAL U. S. GRANT'S 

and respect. At Amiens General Grant quietly partook of 
a dish of cousomme. 

As the train neated Paris the moon rose, and the Gen- 
eral curiously studied the prominent features of the great 
French capital. They reached the station at a quarter to 
«ight o'clock. Generals Noyes and Torbert entered the 
car, accompanied by the Marquis d'Abzac, first Aide-de- 
Camp of the Marshal-President, the official whose duty it 
was to introduce ambassadors. 

In the name of the President of the French Republic, 
the Aide-de-Camp tendered General Grant a cordial wel- 
come. In reply, the General thanked the Marshal, saying 
he anticipated great pleasure and interest from his visit to 
France. Generals Noyes and Torbert greeted him warmly. 
The party had borne the journey splendidly, none of them 
showing the least fatigue. 

Among the Americans awaiting the arrival of General 
Grant at the station, in the company of the Minister, were 
General Meredith Read, from Greece; ex-Minister Part- 
ridge, Admiral Worden, the bankers Seligman, Winthrop 
and Munroe; Dr. Johnson, Dr. Warren, and the representa- 
tives of the leading New York journals. 

A richly carpeted salon was prepared at the station for 
the reception of the distinguished party. The ladies of the 
party, conducted by General Torbert, passed through this 
.salon on their way to the carnages. A splendid bouquet 
was presented to Mrs. Grant by a French journalist on the 
way. General Grant followed, leaning on the arm of Min- 
ister Noyes. As soon as he appeared in the crowded salon^ 
several rounds of hearty cheers were given, and a number 
of people were presented to him. 

The party then entered carriages, in company with 
General Noyes and the Marshal's Aide-de-Camp and intro- 
ducer of ambassadors. They drove to the Hotel Bristol, 



TOUK AROUND 1 HE WORLD. 'J*J 

where a handsome suite of rooms had been engaged for 
them. After a quiet dinner, General Grant smoked a cigar 
and retired early. 

The following morning opened dismally. Rain fell in 
torrents, and there seemed no prospect of its cessation. 
During the morning General Grant Ccilled upon his bank- 
ers, Messrs. Drexel, Harjes & Co. Upon his return, a mul- 
titude of visitors, including diplomatists, ambassadors and 
Americans, began to arrive, and continued to come until 
noon. The most eminent men of France were among the 
callers. At two o'clock, General Grant, wife and son, with 
Minister Noyes, drove to the Elysee, through a pouring 
rain. President MacMahon, the Duchess of Magenta, and 
the Duke Decazes, received the General most cordially. 
The Duchess did everything in her power to render the 
occasion agreeable. 

General Grant wore plain evening dress, calling upon 
the official head of the French people simply as any Amer- 
ican citizen, properly introduced, might. 

President MacMahon said that he was truly glad to 
welcome so eminent a soldier and citizen to France. 

In brief, the ex-President of the United States replied 
that the opportunity of expressing to the chief magistrate 
of France the friendly sentiments entertained throughout 
the length and breadth of America toward the French 
people was equally pleasing to him. 

The interview was entirely informal and exceedingly 
cordial. President MacMahon extended and General Grant 
accepted an invitation to dine at the Elysee on the Thurs- 
day following. 

At four o'clock the committee of resident Americans 
called to invite General Grant and family to a grand ban- 
quet to be given in his honor by the American residents of 
Paris, upon any date the General might see fit to appoint. 
General Grant named November 6, thanking the commit- 



78 GENERAL U. S. GRANT's 

tee for the honor conferred upon him by his own country- 
men in a foreign land. Much agreeable conversation fol- 
lowed. 

In the evening General Grant, accompanied by a per- 
sonal friend, took a long w^alk around the Tuilleries, Palais 
Royal, Place de la Concord and the Boulevards, for two 
hours, seeing Paris by gaslight. 

This unanimity of the American residents in Paris, in 
assisting to make his stay a pleasant one, was one of the 
most pleasing incidents of the General's tour, and the cour- 
teous reception accorded by President MacMahon was not 
so much formality as it was an expression of the kindly 
feelings that exist between the French nation and our own, 
and will be regarded as an evidence that the century-old 
ties that bind the two nations together are not weakened 
by time or any alterations of the political conditions that 
have arisen, or are likely to arise, in either country. 

On the 27th, General Grant visited the Herald Bureau, 
remaining an hour or more. He then went to the studio of 
Mr. Healy, the American artist, and gave a sitting for a 
portrait; afterwards strolled about Montmartre and climbed 
the hill, which affords a fine view of Paris. In the even- 
ing he was honored by visits from several distinguished 
people, including the Comte de Paris, head of the Orleans 
family, and the Duchess of Magenta, wife of the Marshal- 
President. 

If being much feted brings much pleasure, General 
Grant must have been in a happy frame of mind. After the 
stately round of London festivities, which were led off by 
the magnificent reception at Minister Pierrepont's ; after 
becoming a citizen of some twenty-five Scotch burghs; 
after going through Belgium, and dining with kings and 
such; after the return to England, which led to the eating 
of dinners with some twenty-five fine old English corpora- 
tions, the imperturbable ex-President took his way to 



TOUR AROUND THE WORLD. 79 

Paris. He who would fight anything out on a certain line, 
if it took him all the four seasons, is not the man you can 
frighten with a string of long dinners. He has the confi- 
dence in himself that says, I can eat my way through all 
the marshals and marquises, from Finistere to the Alps. 
His Scotch campaign, no less than his English, proved 
what broadsides of hospitality he can safely withstand. 

On the 29th, Minister Noyes gave a grand banquet and 
reception to General Grant. The banquet was a superb 
effort of culinary skill, which can work such gastronomic 
wonders when given carte blanche and where there is a • 
cellar of monte christo to draw upon. President MacMa- 
hon had been invited, but declined on the ground of having 
recently refused to be present at several diplomatic dinners. 
He promised to be present at the reception in the evening. 
Twenty -two guests were present at the table: General 
and Mrs. Grant; Minister and Mrs. Noyes; Mme. Ber- 
thaut; M. Caillaux, Minister of Finance; M. Brunet, 
Minister of Public Instruction; M. Voisin, Prefect of 
Police; General Berthaut, Minister of War; M. Paris, 
Minister of Public Works; General Marquis d' Abzac, 
Aid-de-Camp to the President; Due de Broglie, President 
of the Council, Keeper of the Seals, Minister of Justice; 
Miss Lincoln; Jesse R. Grant; M. Duval, Prefect of the 
Seine; M. De Fourtou, Minister of the Interior; Viscounte 
de Meaux, Minister of Commerce; Miss Stevens; Duchess 
Decazes; M. Mollard, Introducer of Ambassadors; Lieu- 
tenant de la Panouse, Staff Officer of the Marshal; and 
M. Vignaux, Assistant Secretary of Legation. The fol- 
lowing was the memi,: 

MENU. 

POTAGES. 

Tortue a I'Anglaise. 

Consomme a la Sevigne. 

noRs d'ceuvres. 

Bouchoes Agnes Sorel. 

RELEVE. 

Turbol, sauce creme, et crevettes. 



PUNCH. 

Rose. 

ROTIS. 

Faisans truffes. 
Cailles sur croustades. 

ENTREMETS. 

Pate de foie gras de Strasbourg. 

Salade Parisienne. 

Crepes a la Bordelaise. 

Timbales d'ananas, Pompadour. 

Gateaux noisettes. 

DESSERT. 
VINS. 

Vieux Madere. 

Chateau d'Yquem, creme 1864. 

Chateau Lafitte, 1864. 

Chateau Margaux, 1869. 

Johannisberg, Metternich's, 1857. 

Clos Vougeot, 1858. 

Romanee Conti, 1865. 

Champagne Dry Monopole, 187a 

Amontillado. , 

Vieux Port, vintage 1858. 

Cognac, 1S44. 

Kirschwasser. Anisette. Chartreuse. 

Cuiacoa. 

The banquet passed off without any special incident 
worthy of note, that charming flow of polite and witty, or, 
at least, pleasantly pointed conversation which character- 
izes French dinners, kept time to the melody of the repast 
itself. There was no English reserve to thaw — the 
French and the American entendetit without difficulty, and 
hence they make the best of neighbors around the snowy 
damask. 

At about nine o'clock the general reception began. A 
heavy rain had been falling all the afternoon and evening. 
It, of course, had no deterrent effect on the invited. It was 
not long before the salons were filled with guests. The 
guests were received by General Grant, Mrs. Grant and 



TOUR AROUND THE WORLD. 8l 

their son, General and Mrs. Noyes, Consul-General Tor- 
bert, and Secretary Vignaux making the introductions. 
Mrs. Grant was dressed in a costume of heavy white satin, 
Mrs. Noyes appeared in a similar dress, General Grant 
and Minister Noyes wore plain evening dress, and General 
Torbert appearing in the full uniform of a major-general. 

The rooms, as the guests arrived, became perfect gar- 
dens of lovely colors. Brilliant uniforms, diplomatic orders 
and decorations, mingling with the sheen of silks and satins, 
made up a wonderful picture. Marshal MacMahon arrived 
early. He wore a plain evening dress, with the ribbon of 
the Legion, and a breast covered with orders. The Mar- 
shal stood for nearly an hour beside General Grant, join- 
ing in the conversation and receiving congratulations. As 
the two renowned soldiers stood side by side, one could not 
help contrasting them. Marshal MacMahon's ruddy, 
honest, Celtic face, white moustache and white hair, recalled 
the poet's figure of "a rose in snow"; Grant, calm, mas- 
sive and reserved, wore the same imperturbable face so 
well known at home. MacMahon seemed all nerve and 
restlessness; Grant looked all patience and repose. The 
contrast in person was indeed remarkable. Although each 
had come to the Presidency of a powerful republic over 
the same red road, the passion of arms commanding two 
great nations had led each to choose its foremost soldier as 
executive head. One had laid down his power at the feet 
of the people who conferred it. The other, a few months 
later, after a long and severe struggle with the hot and 
ungovernable radicals, was forced to give way to one 
more in sympathy with the dominant party. Meantime two 
great warlike careers touched in friendship in the parlors of 
Minister Noyes. 

The reception drew together the largest assembly of the 
American colony known in years, and they compared 
6 



82 GENERAL U. S. GRANt's 

favorably with the many European nations represented 
there. 

The refreshment tables were exquisitely arranged and 
well patronized, which is just how such a host as General 
Nt)yes would desire to have his sumptuous hospitality 
appreciated. 

On the 31st, General Grant visited the Palais d' Indus- 
trie, and the works where the statue of " Liberty" for New 
York harbor is being constructed. The sculptor, M. Bar- 
tholdi, presented him with a miniature model of the statue. 
In the evening the General attended the opera, where he 
was enthusiastically received by the audience, and treated 
with gi-eat ceremony by the officials. 

On November i, Marshal MacMahon gave a dinner atthe 
Elvsee, in honor of General Grant. Cabinet and Marshal's 
military household and prominent French and American 
residents were present. The banquet was a very brilliant 
and animated affair. After dinner, General Grant and Pres- 
ident MacMahon had a long conversation in the smoking- 
room. The Marshal invited General Grant to breakfast 
with him, as a friend, and also to witness some of the sit- 
tino-s of the Senate and Chamber of Deputies, which the 
General accepted, and was much pleased with his cordial 
reception. 

If Paris is the place where good Americans go after 
death, it is, all the same, a good place for great Americans 
to go during life. The magnificent banquet tendered No- 
vember 6, in the gay capital, to General Grant, by the resi- 
dent Americans, is a proof of the latter. The three hundred 
and fifty Americans who greeted our great soldier so hand- 
somely, one and all, thought so. As for the General, him- 
self, he has had so many courtesies from occasional kings 
and nol)les, that he must have felt a thrill of pleasure pass 
thnju'di him, as he found himself face to face with a com- 



TOUR AKOUND THE WORLD. S3 

pany in which every man was a sovereign. As for the 
ladies, God bless them! they are queens everywhere. 
Among those beside the General at the banquet, were men 
who carried the names, dear to all patriotic Americans, of 
Rochambeau and Lafayette. Thus did old France look 
kindly through the eyes of her descendants upon the chil- 
dren of the Republic of the West, which her blood and 
treasure did so much to found. 

The banqeting hall was splendidly decorated and illu- 
minated. The Franco-American Union contributed a 
portrait of General Grant, which, adorned with flags, was 
hung over the principal table. A band stationed in the 
gallery played at intervals, and vocal music was given by 
a chorus furnished by the director of the Italian opera. 

General Grant, Minister Noyes and General Torbert 
were in full military uniform. 

Mr. Noyes, as chairman, proposed the following 
toasts : — 

"The President of the United States," which was re- 
sponded to by music only. 

"The President of the Fi-ench Republic," to which a 
similar response was made. 

These were followed by the toast of the evening, " Our 
Guest, General Grant," which was proposed by the Chair- 
man in the following speech: — 

"Ladies and Gentlemen: It has generally hap- 
pened, according to the world's history, that when a great 
public crisis has occurred, such as a revolution for inde- 
pendence or a struggle for national existence, some man 
has been found specially fitted for and equal to the emer- 
gency. He appears suddenly from unexpected quarters, 
and is not always selected from the arena of politics or from 
among the most prominent of his countrymen. He as- 
sumes at the proper time leadership and control, simply 



84 GENERAL U. S. GRANT'S 

because he was born for it and seems to have waited for 
the opportunity and the necessity. 

"When the war of secession was inaugurated in America, 
in 1S61, a quiet and silent man, who had received a 
military education, was pursuing an avocation in civil life 
in a small town in Illinois. As soon as the first hostile 
guns opened upon Fort Sumter, he offered his services to 
his country and was appointed colonel of a regiment of 
volunteers. It was then believed that the war would be of 
short duration and limited in extent, but the North had un- 
derrated the spirit and perhaps the courage and endurance 
of the rebellious section. Early reverses and doubtful con- 
tests that were either defeats or drawn battles soon made it 
apparent that all the energies and resources of the govern- 
ment would be taxed to the uttermost. The theater of war 
rapidly extended until it stretched westward a thousand 
miles from the sea, across great rivers and mountain ranges. 
Immense armies were assembled in the South, composed 
of brave and chivalric soldiers and commanded by able and 
accomplished leaders. There were serious political troubles 
and divided sympathies among the people of the North, 
but both sides nerved themselves for the bloody and terri- 
ble struggle, which lasted four years and resulted in the 
success of the national forces. 

"Meantime our Illinois Colonel had risen in rank until 
there was no grade sufHcient for his recognition and re- 
ward, and two new ones were successively created. This 
silent man had shaken the continent with the thunder of his 
artillery and the tramp of his victorious columns. At the 
close of the war he was general-in-chief, commanding all 
the armies of the Republic, which carried upon their muster 
rolls 1,100,000 men. The Union was preserved, and its flag 
everywhere respected. After the close of the war he was 
twice called by a grateful nation to the highest ofhce in the 
gift of forty-five million people. 



TOUR AROUND THE WORLD. 85 

"He administered tlie government with moderation, gen- 
erosity, wisdom and success. The civil power was con- 
fronted by many complicated and difficult questions. He 
solved them with rare patriotism and intelligence, and his 
place in history as a civil magistrate will be among the 
foremost. After sixteen years of such labor as few men 
could endure, after such success in war and peace as few 
men ever attain, he seeks recreation in many lands, and an 
opportunity to compare the institutions of his own country 
with the civilization and forms of government of the Old 
World. It is our happy privilege to-night to welcome the 
great soldier and statesman to this, the Queen City of the 
world, and to wish for him and his family health and hap- 
piness. Without detaining you longer, I propose the health 
of the distinguished guest of the evening, General Grant, 
ex-President of the United States." 

The delivery of General Noyes' speech was frequently 
interrupted by enthusiastic applause. 

General Grant, on rising to reply, was received with 
prolonged cheering. He said: 

"Ladies and Gentlemen: After your flattering 
reception, and the compliments of Governor Noyes, I am 
embarrassed to thank you as I should wish. During the 
five and a half months I have been in Europe, my recep- 
tion has been very gratifying, not only to me, but also, 
above all, to my country and countrymen, who were hon- 
ored by it. I thank the American colony of Paris. I hope 
its members will enjoy their visit here as I am doing and 
hope to do for some weeks yet. I hope when you return 
home 3'ou will find you realized the benefits predicted by 
our Minister." 

Loud and enthusiastic applause followed the General's 
speech. 

M. de Lafayette replied to the toast of "France." He 
said France duly appreciated the great leader and great 



86 GENERAL U. S. GRANt's 

citizen who honored her by his visit. M. de Lafayette re- 
marked that General Grant quitted power solely to bow 
before the laws of his country. He thanked him for visit- 
ing France, because he was a great example for her, and 
because France gained from close inspection. In con- 
clusion, he alluded to the Revolutionary war, and expressed 
an ardent wish that the French and American republics 
should never be sejjarated, but form an indissoluble union 
for the welfare, liberty and independence of peoples. 

The Marquis of Rochambeau also spoke in eulogy of 
General Grant. 

The toast, " The Army and Navy," was responded to 
by the singing of the " Star Spangled Banner " by the 
Italian chorus, 

Mr. Noyes finally proposed " The Ladies," and General 
Torbert offered " The Health of the United States Min- 
ister." Mr. Noyes replied briefly, and the company then 
adjourned to the drawing-room. 

After nearly a month's stay in Paris, having been dined 
and feted by nearly all the prominent and distinguished 
civilians and officials in this gay city, the great sensational 
event was \h& fete^ consisting of a dinner and ball, given in 
honor of ex-President Grant by Mrs. Mackay, wife of 
"Bonanza" Mackay, on November 21, at her splendid 
mansion in the Rue Tilsit. The affair overshadowed in 
importance, as far as the American colony and fashionable 
society are concerned, anything that had preceded it in 
brilliant extravagance of display. Even the reporters were 
at a loss for hyperboles of descriptive style that could do 
justice to the pomp, splendor and sparkle of the occasion. 
The house where the affair took place cost one mil- 
lion five hundred thousand francs, and the furniture five 
hundred thousand francs. It looks out upon the Place 
d'Etoilc, and is a splendid residence. The garden 
was brilliantly illuminated and decorated with national 



TOUR AROUND THE WORLD. 87 

flags, and with emblems set in thousands of gas jets. The 
orchestra, consisting of thirty-six musicians, was stationed 
on a pavilion built out from the house in front of the Rue 
Tilsit. A dozen footmen, in liveries of crimson and gold, 
lined the entrance and stairway. 

The carriages occupied the causeway in front. The 
vestibule, staircase and jDassage-ways were \ ^ofusely deco- 
rated with flags and beautiful flowers. Tht rooms were 
magnificent. Everything that money could supply and ele- 
gant taste select was there to add to the beauty and im- 
pressiveness of the scene. 

There were covers for twenty-four, and the guests were 
General Grant and family, and the members of the Amer- 
ican Legation and Consulate and their families. There 
were no unofficial Americans present at the dinner. The 
menu was inscribed on small silver tablettes^ as in the case 
of the famous dinner to Senator Sharon at San Francisco. 
After the dinner, a grand reception and ball took place, 
at which three hundred guests were present. Among 
the guests were the Marquis de Lafayette, MM. de 
Rochambeau and de Bois-Thierry, the Due de Rivoli, 
the Due and Duchesse de Bojano, the Due and Mile. 
Ribon de Trohen, Comtes de Beon, Serrurrier, de 
Montferraut, de Divonns and Excelmans, the Baronne 
Delort de Gleon, Barons Houbeyran and de Reinach, and 
Vicomtes de Villestrux and Marchand, the Due Decazes^, 
Senator Laboulaye, MM. Henri Martin and Leon Say> 
Mme. Guizot, Mr. and Mrs. Seligman and M. Cei'nuschi, 

The American colony was largely represented, and the 
number of beautiful women was very remarkable. The 
ladies' costumes displayed extraordinary taste, elegance and 
richness. The dancing commenced early and continued 
till four o'clock in the morning. 

During the latter part of November, General Grant 
Vias, feted and dined by Mrs. General Sickles, at her resi- 



^ 



88 GENERAL U. S. GRANT'S 

dence in the Rue Presbourg, which was a brilliant affair; 
by the Marquis de Talleyrand-Perigoi'd; by the Comte de 
Paris; Emile Girardin, editor of Z.a France; M. Gam- 
betta; Mr. Healy, the American artist; M. Laugel, a prom- 
inent Orleanist, and at the house of Mr. Harjes, the banker, 
was toasted for the last time in Paris. The gentlemen in 
the party were all Americans, and the affair was one of the 
most elegant which has taken place in Paris this season. 

As a guest of many distinguished persons in the gay 
capital, and a man honored in all circles, he had enjoyed an 
uncommonly brilliant round of festivities, and had been the 
subject of wide and various criticism, and had stood the fire 
of festivities and criticism alike with that imperturbable 
tranquility which is an inseparable element of his identity. 



4 



CHAPTER VIII. 



THROUGH FPIANCE. ITALY. 

General Grant and party reached Lyons on the 2d of 
December, and were received by the Prefect, the President 
of the Municipal Council, American residents and several 
of the leading silk merchants of Lyons. After a tour of 
inspection of the quays and places of interest, he left for 
Marseilles on the 3d, where he was received with great 
enthusiasm. On the 15th we find him at Genoa, he hav- 
ing previously visited Villa Franca and Leghorn. After 
visiting the town of Genoa, the General gave a reception 
to the authorities on board the United States steamer Van- 
dalia, Commander Robeson. 

Reaching Naples, early on the evening of the 17th, on 
the following day, in company with Mrs. Grant and son, he 
made the ascent of Mount Vesuvius, but, the day being 
cold, the party did not reach the crater. Luncheon was 
served at the " House of Refuge," near the Observatory, 
and a pleasant hour spent in enjoying the remarkable view 
of Capri and Ischia. The plain is studded with twenty 
villages and lined with snow clad hills, and the snow looked 
beautifully clear and white in the gorgeous sunlight of an 
Italian sky. They returned in the evening to the Vanda- 
lia, after having spent a delightfully pleasant day. 

On Wednesday the General and family, accompanied by 
Consul Duncan, Commander Robeson, Lieutenants Strong, 
Rush and Miller, and Engineer Baird, visited the ruins of 



90 GENERAL U. S. GRANT S 

Pompeii. The government had made arrangements for 
a special excavation in honor of General Grant, so 
that he might see how the work was done, and see 
some of the curiosities recovered just as they were 
placed when the city was suddenly destroyed. The day 
was a little cold, but clear, and in every way favorable 
for the work. The director of the excavations received 
General Grant and party, and conducted them to the prin- 
cipal points of interest. Two hours were spent wandering 
among the ruins of this ancient and memorable city, and 
at every step something of interest was seen. The work- 
ingmen then proceeded to dig out the chamber of a buried 
house, and discovered some fragments of a table made of 
wood and bronze. The workmanship was very curious 
and elaborate, and was examined with great interest by the 
whole party. The next object of interest discovered was 
a loaf of bread, wrapped neatly in cloth and perfectly dis- 
tinguishable. Many other curious and interesting articles 
were found and inspected by the party of visitors, and all 
expressed themselves as highly gratified with their visit to 
the ruins of the ancient city. They returned in the even- 
ing. 

On Thursday ex-President Grant returned the ofticial 
visits' of the civil and military authorities of the city. As 
he left the Vandalia the yards were manned and a salute 
fired, the salute being returned by the Italian Admiral. 
General Grant then landed, and was met by the General 
commanding the district, who had a regiment of Bersaglieri 
drawn up in front of the Royal Palace, and reviewed by 
General Grant. Accompanied by the Italian officials, he 
then visited the naval and military schools and the palace, 
after which he attended a recej^tion at the house of Consul 
Duncan. 

During these visits General Grant was accompanied by 
his son, Commander Robeson, Lieutenants Rush and 



I 



TOUR AIIOUND THE WOULD. 9^ 

Miller, and a splendid retinue of Italian officials. The 
whole tone of the reception accorded him was cordial and 
stately. The General expressed himself with the greatest 
admiration of the Italian troops. 

Christmas we find General Grant and party on board the 
Vandalia,at Palermo. The General remained on board until 
noon to receive the visit of the Prefect, who came in state, 
and was honored with a salute of fifteen guns. His Honor 
remained only a few minutes, during which he tendered 
the General all the hospitalities and courtesies of the town, 
but General Grant declined them, with thanks. 

After the departure of the city authorities, the General 
and Captain Robeson went on shore, and sauntered about 
for two or three hours, looking on the holiday groups, who 
made the day a merry one in their Sicilian fashion. A 
Christmas dinner was furnished from the ship's larder. 
The hosts were Chief Engineer J. Trilley, Surgeon George 
Cooke, Lieutenant-Commander A. G. Caldwell, Lieutenant 
E. T. Strong, Past- Assistant-Engineers G. W. Baird and 
D. M. Fulmer, Lieutenant Jacob W. Miller, Paymaster J. 
P. Loomis, Lieutenant Richard Rush, Captain L. E. 
Fagan, commanding the marines, Lieutenant H. O. 
Handy, Lieutenant W. A. Hadden and Master J. W. 
Daunehower. These comprised the names of the ward- 
room officers of the Vandalia — a gallant, manly, chivalrous 
company they were. The guests of the evening were Gen- 
eral Grant and wife. Commander H. B. Robeson, and 
Jesse R. Grant. This was the company; the menu will 
give an idea of what a ship's kitchen can do for a Christ- 
mas dinner: 

MENU. 

Polage. 

Tomate puree. 

Bouchees a la reine. 

Cabellon a la Hollandaise. 

Puree de pommes. 
Dindonneau aux huitre*. 
Haricots verts. 



Q2 GENERAL U. S. GRANT S 

Filets aux champignons. 

Petits pois. 

Punch a la Romaine. 

Salade. 

Phim pudding. 

Mince pies. 

Dessert. 

It was nearly six when the soup made its appearance, 
and it was half-past eight before the waiters brought in the 
coffee. There was no hurry — no long pauses. The chat 
went round the table, the General doing his share of talk. 
It was a genial, home-like feast. Thus, Christmas, 1877, 
closed merry and pleasant. 

The next morning there were calls to make — official 
calls; this is one of the duties of the General's trip. The 
incognito of General Grant is one that no one will respect. 
He declines all honors and attentions, so far as he can do 
so without rudeness, and is especially indifferent to the 
parade and etiquette by which his journey is surrounded. 
It is amusing, knowing Genei'al Grant's feelings on the 
subject, to read the articles in English and American papers 
about his craving for precedence, and his fear lest he may 
not have the proper seat at the table and the highest num- 
ber of guns for a salute. He had declined every attention 
of an official character thus far, except those whose non- 
acceptance would have been misconstrued. When he 
arrived at a port, his habit was to go ashore with his wife 
and son, see what was to be seen, and drift about from pal- 
ace to picture gallery, like any other wandering, studious 
American, " doing Europe." Sometimes the officials were 
too prompt for him, but generally, unless they called by 
appointment, they found the General absent. 

In this country a large class of our citizens have been 
misled by the false reports of the press and enemies of ex- 
President Grant, and believe that the General traveled 
like a prince, with a large retinue ; that he was enabled to do 
so, because the men who fattened on the corruptions of his 



TOUR AROUND THE WORLD. 93 

administration gave him a share of their plunder. The 
truth is, General Grant traveled as a private citizen. He 
had one servant and a courier. His courier arranged for 
his hotel accommodations, and the one who did office for 
the General took pains to get as good bargains for his 
master as possible. So far as General Grant being a rich 
man, it is known by his friends that, when he left this 
country, the duration of his trip would depend entirely 
upon his income, and this income depends altogether upon 
the proceeds of his investment of the money presented to 
hinf at the close of the war. The Presidency yielded him 
nothing in the way of capital, and he has not now a dollar 
that came to him as an official. By this is meant, that the 
money paid to General Grant as a soldier and as a Presi- 
dent was spent by him in supporting the dignity of his 
office. Everybody knows how much money was given 
him at the close of the war; as this was all well invested 
and has grown, one may estimate the fortune of the Gen- 
eral, and about how long that fortune would enable him to 
travel like a prince over Europe. 

At Palermo General Grant and family remained several 
days, enjoying the delightful climate and picturesque attrac- 
tions. This Sicily is the land of many civilizations. Here 
Greek, the Carthagenian, the Roman and the Saracen, 
have made their mark. This is the land of the poetry of 
Homer, the genius of Archimedes, the philosophy and piety 
of Paul. These hills and bays and valleys have seen mighty 
armies striving for the mastery of the world. Certainly if 
example or precept, or the opportunity for great deeds, 
could ennoble a nation, Sicily should be the land of heroes. 
But its heroism has fallen into rags, and the descendants of 
the men who destroyed the Athenian fleet in Syracuse, and 
who confronted the power of Carthage at Agrigentum, 
now spend their time sleeping in the sun, swarming around 
chapel doors to beg, and hiding in the hills to waylay tray- 



94 GENERAL U. S. GRANT S 

elers and rob them or keep them for a ransom. Brigand- 
age has for generations been the dominant industry in the 
SiciHes, but it is due to the present Italian government to say 
tliat they are doing all in their power to supjjress it. 

On the zSth, General Grant and party arrived at La 
Valetta, Malta. At this place the General was visited 
by the Duke of Edinburgh, who was at Malta in com- 
mand of the Sultan, an English ironclad. His Royal 
Highness was received at the gangway by Captain Robe- 
son. He was dressed in his uniform as Captain, wearing 
on his breast the star of the Garter. 

General Grant advanced and greeted the Duke, and 
presented the gentlemen with him, and they retired to the 
cabin. They remained in conversation for the best part of 
an hour, talking about Malta, its antiquities, its history, 
England, education and the Eastern question. The Duke 
spoke of the visit of his brother-in-law, the Grand Duke 
Alexis, to America, and of the gratification of the family 
at the reception tendered him in America. His Royal 
Highness is a pattern of a sailor, and has all the ease and 
ofF-li/snd grace of the family. On taking his leave, he 
invi'-'d the General and family to visit him at his palace of 
San Antonio and take luncheon, which was accepted. 

The palace of San Antonio is about four miles from 
town ; it is surroinided by orange groves and walls, and is 
noted as the only large garden on the island. The drive 
was through an interesting countr}'^, and greatly enjoyed 
by the visitors. At the palace, the Duke and Duchess 
received the General and Mrs. Grant and their son in the 
most gracious manner. After luncheon His Royal High- 
ness escorted them through the orange groves. At noon 
General Grant visited the Governor-General of Malta. 

On leaving, the General was saluted with twentj'-one 
guns. A regiment was drawn up in front of the palace as 
a jfuard of honor. The Governor, a famous old English 



TOUR AROUND THE WORLD. 9^ 

General, Van Straubeuzee, wore the Order of the Grand 
Cross of the Bath. He received the General and party at the 
door of the palace, surrounded by his council and a group 
of Maltese noblemen. After presentation to Lady Van 
Straubeuzee, the same ceremonies were repeated. In the 
evening there was a state dinner to the General and party 
at the palace, including, among the guests, Commander 
Robeson and Lieutenant-Commander Caldwell, of the 
Vandalia, as well as the Captain and executive officers of 
the Gettysburg. At the dinner General Grant's health was 
proposed, which was responded to in the heartiest manner. 
There were many temptations to remain in Malta. 
Hospitalities were showered upon General Grant. All the 
great ones vied with one another in making his visit a pleas-, 
ant one. Yet on the last day of the year the General bid 
good-bye, and sailed for the land of the Lotus. 



CHAPTER IX. 



IN EGYPT AND THE LOTUS LAND. 

The voyage from Malta to Egypt was exceedingly un- 
pleasant. A severe storm prevailed most of the time, ren- 
dering life anything but comfortable. Unlike the majority 
of military heroes, General Grant seems to take kindly to 
the waves, and to be as much at home on them as if he 
had been educated at Annapolis instead of West Point. 

No storm, however severe, could deprive him of his 
cigar, or, to use a sea phrase, keep him below. In this 
respect he is very unlike Napoleon, who detested the sea, 
and whom the smell of tar invariably sickened. The 
English humorists never tired of twitting him on the fact, 
and the patriotic prints and cartoons at the time he was 
planning his celebrated invasion depict the conqueror of 
the continent in some exceedingly ludicrous positions. 

The General and party stopped at Alexandria because 
they wanted a safe anchorage, though they had intended 
going direct to Cairo. He remained there three days. 
The Vandalia had hardly anchored when the Governor of 
the district, the Admiral and the General, Pachas and Beys, 
Consul-General Farman, Judges Barringer and Morgan, 
and resident missionaries, came on board, and were received 
by General Grant. The Governor, in the name of the 
Khedive, welcomed General Grant to Egypt, and offered 
him a palace in Cairo, and a special steamer up the Nile. 
It is Oriental etiquette to return calls as soon as possible, 
and accordingly in the afternoon the General, accompanied 



TOUR AROUND THE WORLD. 97 

by his son, Commander Robeson, Chief Engineer Trilley* 
and Lieutenant Handy of the navy, landed in the official 
barge. As this was an official visit, the Vandalia manned the 
yards and fired twenty-one guns. These salutes were 
responded to by the Egyptian vessels; a guard of honor 
received the General at the palace, and the reception was 
after the manner of the Orientals. 

We enter a spacious chamber and are seated on a cush- 
ioned seat or divan, according to rank. The Pacha oflTers 
the company cigarettes. Then compliments are exchanged, 
the Pacha saying how proud Egypt is to see the illustrious 
stranger, and the General answering that he anticipates 
great pleasure in visiting Egypt. The Pacha gives a signal, 
and servants enter bearing little porcelain cups about as 
large as an egg, in filigree cases. This is the beverage — 
coflfee — or, as was the case with this special Pacha, a hot 
drink spiced with cinnamon. Then the conversation con- 
tinues with judicious pauses, the Orientals being slow in 
speech and our General not apt to diflfuse his opinions. In 
about five minutes we arise and file down-stairs in slow, 
solemn fashion, servants and guards saluting, and the visit 
is over. 

General and Mrs. Grant dined with Vice-Consul Sal- 
vage, and in the evening attended a ball given in their 
honor. This was an exceedingly brilliant entertainment, 
and interesting in one respect especially, because it was 
here that the General met Henry M. Stanley, just fresh 
from the African wilderness. Stanley sat on the right of 
the General, and they had a long conversation upon African 
matters and the practical results of the work done by the 
intrepid explorer. The Consul-General proposed the 
health of General Grant, and Judge Barringer proposed 
that of Mrs. Grant, who was prevented by fatigue from 
attending. Then a toast was proposed in honor of Stan- 
ley, who made a grateful response, saying that it was one 
7 



98 GENERAL U. S. GRANT'S 

of the proudest moments of his life to find himself seated 
by the guest of the evening. The entertainment at Mr. 
Salvage's at an end, the visitors returned on board the 
Vandalia. Sunday w^as spent quietly in a stroll about the 
town. Here the General and party left the Vandalia to 
visit Cairo and the Nile. Going by rail, they reached 
Cairo after a run of four hours. Here he w^as met by Gen- 
eral Stone, the representative of the Khedive, and also 
General Loring, both Americans, and late of the Confed- 
erate States army. General Grant and General Stone 
were together at West Point, and old friends. Their meet- 
ing was quite enthusiastic. The General asks General 
Loring to ride with him, while General Stone accompanies 
Mrs. Grant, and so they drive off to the Palace of Kassr- 
el-Doussa — the palace placed at General Grant's disposal 
by the Khedive. Commander Robeson and Lieutenant 
Rush accept the General's invitation to reside in the palace 
while they are in Cairo, and the remainder of the party 
find homes in the hotel- 

The General dined qttJetly with his family, and neX. 
day called on the Khedive. The hour fixed for the recep- 
tion was eleven, and a few minutes before that hour the 
state carriages called at the palace. The General wore 
plain evening dress, and was accompanied by the following 
officers: Commander H. B. Robeson, commanding the 
Vandalia; Joseph Trilley, chief engineer; George H. 
Cooke, surgeon; Lieutenant E. T. Strong, Lieutenant J» 
W. Miller, Paymaster J. P. Loomis; G. W. Baird, en- 
gineer; H. L. Hoskinson, ensign; B. F. Walling and E. 
S. Hotchkin, midshipmen; E. R. Freeman, engineer. 
Jesse R. Grant and Consul-General Farman accompanied 
the General. They reached the palace shortly after eleven. 
There was a guard of honor, and the officers of the house- 
hold were ranged on the stairs. The General entered, and 
was met by His Highness the Khedive at the foot of the 



TOUR AROUND THE WORLD. 99 

stairs. The General, his son, and Mr. Farman, went into 
an inner room, where the ceremonies of the formal pre- 
sentation took place. The officers then entered, and were 
received by His Highness, who expressed his gratification 
at seeing so many representatives of the navy. This recep- 
tion lasted about half an hour. They then returned to the 
palace, and had scarcely entered when the carriage of the 
Khedive was announced. The General received the Khe- 
dive, who was accompanied by his Secretary for Foreign 
Affairs, and welcomed him in the grand saloon. The offi- 
cers of the Vandalia were present, and their striking uni- 
forms, the picturesque costumes of the Khedive and his 
attendants, and the splendid, stately decorations of the room 
in which they assembled, made the group imposing. At 
the close of the interview. General Grant escorted the Khe- 
dive to his carriage. Official calls were then made upon 
the two sons of the Khedive, who at once returned the 
calls, and so ended official duties. 

Judge Batcheller and Consul-General Farman each 
^avc a giand dinner and ball in nonor of the General, which 
were attended by the notables of all nations residing at 
Cairo. 

The thoughtful Khedive gave our distinguished traveler 
a steamer specially adapted to the intricate and difficult navi- 
gation of the Nile, also guides, interpreters, and professors 
learned in the mysterious language of the monuments and 
ruins which tell of a civilization that was old a thousand 
years before the dawn of the Western Roman empire. The 
party consisted of General and Mrs. Grant, their son, Sami 
Bey, Emile Brugsch, Consul-General Farman, Chief Sur- 
geon Cooke, Lieutenant Hadden, Ensign F. A. Wilner, 
and a correspondent of the New York Herald — ten in all. 

On the morning of the 19th of January, General Grant 
and party reached Siout, the capital of Upper Egypt, and 
containing twenty-five thousand inhabitants, where we 



lOO GENERAL U. S. GRANT S 

have a Vice-Consul, the city being at some distance from 
tlie river. After having received a call from Vice-Consul 
Wasif-el-Hayat, a Syrian, they all drove to the town. It 
was over parched fields, through a country parched with 
the drought, but in more favorable years blooming like a 
garden. All the town seemed to know of their coming, 
for wherever they went great crowds swarmed around, and 
they had to force their donkeys through masses of Arabs 
and Egyptians, of all ages and conditions. The stores are 
little holes of rooms, in front of which the trader sits and 
calls upon you to buy. As these avenues are less than 
six feet, one can imagine the trouble had in making prog- 
ress. The town has some fine mosques and houses, but 
in the main is like all the towns of Upper Egypt, a collec- 
tion of mud hovels. A grand reception was given by the 
Vice-Consul. The dinner was regal in its profusion and 
splendor, and consisted of fully twenty courses, all well 
served. When it was concluded, the son of the host arose, 
and, in remarkably clear and correct English, proposed the 
General's health. We give a fragment of this speech: 

" Long have we heard and wondered," said the speaker, 
" at the strange progress which Arherica has made during 
this past century by which she has taken the first position 
among the most widely civilized nations. She has so 
quickly improved in sciences, morals and arts that the world 
stands amazed at this extraordinary progress, which sur- 
passes the swiftness of lightning. It is to the hard work of 
her great and wise men that all this advance is imputed, those 
who have shown to the world what wise, courageous, pat- 
riotic men can do. Let all the world look to America and 
follow her example — that nation which has taken as the 
basis of her laws and the object of her undertakings to 
maintain freedom and equality among her own people, and 
secure them for others, avoiding all ambitious schemes 
which would draw her into bloody and disastrous wars, 



TOUR AROUND THE WORLD. lOI 

and trying by all means to maintain peace internally and 
externally. The only two great wars upon which she has 
engaged were entered upon for pure and just purposes — 
the first for releasing herself from the English yoke and 
erecting her independence, and the other for stopping slav- 
ery and strengthening the union of the States; and well 
we know that it was mainly, under God, due to the talent, 
courage and wisdom of his excellency, General Grant, that 
the latter of the two enterprises was brought to a success- 
ful issue." The speech closed by a tribute to the Gen- 
eral and the Khedive. General Grant said in response 
that nothing in his whole trip had so impressed him as this 
unexpected, this generous welcome in the heart of Egypt. 
He had anticipated great pleasure in his visit to Egypt, and 
the anticipation had been more than realized. He thanked 
his host, and especially the young man who had spoken of 
him with so high praise, for their reception. The dinner 
dissolved into coffee, conversation and cigars. 

On the 3 1st, at the town of Girgel, the General and 
party take to the donkeys and make a trip under the broil- 
ing hot sun, to the ruined city of Abydos. This was the 
oldest city in Egypt. It went back to Menes, the first of 
the Egyptian Kings, who reigned, according to Egyptian 
history, four thousand five hundred years before Christ. 
The ruins ai'e on a grand scale. Abydos is a temple 
which the Khedive is rescuing from the sand. Here, 
according to tradition, was buried the god Osiris. To 
the ancient Egyptian, the burial place of that god was 
as sacred as Mecca to the Moslems, or the Holy Sep- 
ulchre was to the Mediceval Christians. The govern- 
ment is trying to reclaim this temple, and has been 
digging in all directions. One excavation over fifty feet 
deep was visited. Remnants of an old house or tomb could 
be seen. Millions of fragments of broken pottery around. 
The strata, that age after age had heaped upon the buried 



I02 GENERAL U. S, GRANT S 

city, were plainly visible. The city was really a city of 
tombs. In the ancient days the devout Egyptian craved 
burial near the tomb of Osiris, and so for centuries their re- 
mains were brought to Abydos from all parts of Egypt. 
Lunch was taken with Salib, an Arabian, who had for 
twenty years been working at the excavations, working 
with so much diligence that he had become entirely blind, 
and it is now his only comfort to \vander through the ruins, 
direct the workmen, and trace with his finger inany a loved 
inscription that his zeal has brought to light, Salib lives 
near the ruin, on a pension allowed by the Khedive. After 
an hour's rest, having ridden fifteen miles on donkeys and 
walked two or three in tlie sand, the visitors returned to 
the shelter and repose of the cabin of the Vandalia. 

We next find our visitors at Thebes, once a city that 
covered both banks of the Nile, was known to Homer as the 
city of the hundred gates. It had a population of three 
hundred thousand inhabitants, and sent out twenty thousand 
armed chariots. It was famed for its riches and its splendor 
until it was besieged. Here was the temple of Memnon and 
its colossal statues, and the palace temple of the great Ram- 
eses, the only ruin in Egypt known to be the home of a 
King; the columns of the Luxor, and the stupendous ruins 
of Kanark, and the tombs of the kings. Visiting the town 
of Luxor, a collection of houses built upon the ruins of the 
old temple, erected over three thousand years ago; there is 
a fine obelisk here, the companion to the one now standing 
in the Place Concordia, Paris; also a statue of Rameses, of 
colossal size, now broken and partly buried in the sand. 
Next morning the party crossed the river, and prepared 
for a ride to visit Memnon statues; arrived at their destina- 
tion, they found all that is left of ISlcmnonism are the two 
colossal statues. A good part of the base is buried in the 
earth, but they loom up over the plain, and can be seen miles 
and miles away. Some idea of their size can be formed. 



TOUR AROUND THE WORLD. 103 

when it is known that tlie statue measures eighteen feet 
three inches across the shoulders, sixteen feet six inches 
from tlie top of the shoulder to the elbow, and the j^ortions 
of the body in due proportion. After examining these 
statues and resting a half hour, they visited the temple of 
Medesnet Habro, one of the great temples of Thebes, 
and the palace temple of the great Rameses, who lived 
thirteen hundred years before Christ, and is supposed b}' 
some to be the Pharaoh that brought the j^lagues upon 
Egypt. The walls of the palace are covered with inscrip- 
tions. After carefully ex^Dloring these interesting ruins, and 
luncheon being served in one of the old King's apaitments, 
our party returned by the route of the early morning. 
Next morning, after a ride of forty minutes from Luxor, our 
party were at the ruined temple of Kanark, built in the 
days of Abraham. It is hard to realize that in the infinite 
and awful past, in the days when the Lord came down to 
the earth and comminied with men and gave His command- 
ments, these columns and statues, these plinths and entabla- 
tures, these mighty, bending walls, upon which chaos has 
put its seal, were the shrines of a nation's faith and sover- 
eignty ; yet this is all told in stone. 

Kanark, which was not only a temple, but one in the 
series of temples which constituted Thebes, is about half a 
mile from the river, a mile or two from the temple of 
Luxor. The front wall or propylon is 370 feet broad, 50 
feet deep, and the standing tower 140 feet high. Leading 
up to this main entrance is an avenue, lined with statues and 
sphinxes, 200 feet long. When you enter this gate, you 
enter an open court-yard 275 feet by 329. There is a cor- 
rider or cloister on either side; in the middle a double 
line of columns, of which only one remains. We now 
come to another wall or propylon, as large as the entrance, 
and enter the great hall — the most magnificent ruin in 
Egypt. The steps of the door are 40 feet by 10. The 



I04 GENERAL^ U. S. GRANT S 

room is a 170 feet by 329, and the roof was supported by 
134 columns. These columns are all or nearly all standing, 
but the roof has gone. Twelve are 62 feet high without 
the plinth, and 1 1 feet 6 inches in diameter. One hundred 
and twenty-two are 42 feet 5 inches in height, and 28 feet 
in circumference. They were all brilliantly colored, and 
some of them retain their colors still ; and you can well 
imagine what must have been the blaze of light and color, 
when the kings and priests passed through in solemn pro- 
cession. We pass through another gate into an open court. 
Here is an obelisk in granite 75 feet high, and the fragments 
of another, its companion. The inscriptions on them are 
OS clear as though they had been cut yesterday, so gentle 
is this climate in its dealings with time. They celebrate 
the victories and virtues of the kings who reigned 1700 
years before Christ, and promise the kings in the name of 
the immortal gods that their glory shall live for ages. 
We pass into another chamber very much in ruins, and 
see another obelisk, 92 feet high and 8 feet square — the 
largest in the world. This monument commemorates the 
virtues of the king's daughter — womanly and queenly vir- 
tues, which met their reward, let us hope, thirty-five cen- 
turies ago. One may form some idea of what the Egyp- 
tians could do in the way of mechanics and engineering, 
when it is known that this obelisk is a smgle block of 
granite, that it was brought from the quarry, miles and 
miles away, erected and inscribed, in seven months. The 
next room was the sanctury, the holy of holies, and is now 
a mass of rubbish requiring nimble feet to climb. We 
scramble over stones and sand, until we come to what was 
the room where King Amenoj^his III., who lived sixteen 
centuries before Christ, was represented as giving offerings 
to fifty-six of his royal predecessors. The hall is a ruin, 
and some French Vandals earned off the tablet — one of 
the most valuable in Egypt — to Paris. Altogether the 



TOUR AROUND THE WORLD. IO5 

building alone was i,io8 feet long, and about 300 feet wide, 
the circuit around the outside, according to a Roman histo- 
rian who saw it in its glory, being about a mile and a half. 

This was the temple, but the temple was only a part. 
There were three avenues leading from it to the other tem- 
ples; these avenues were lined with statues, large and small, 
generally of the Sphinx. Some distance from the temple 
is a pool of water, known as the Sacred Lake. When an 
Egyptian died and was embalmed, his body was brought 
to the lake, where, if the deceased had lived worthily, the 
body was sprinkled with water from the lake by the priests, 
and was carried across to the other shore, and removed 
from there to the catacombs. 

Wherever we find walls we have inscriptions. The in- 
scriptions are in hieroglyphic language — a language as 
clear to scholars now as the Latin or Sanscrit. They tell of 
battles and the glory of the King Rameses, who is supposed 
to be the Sesostris of the Greeks. We see him leading his 
men to attack a fortified place. Again we see him leading 
foot soldiers and putting an enemy to the sword. We see him 
leading his captives as an offering to the gods, and offering 
not only prisoners, but booty of great value. The group 
of prisoners are rudely done, but you see the type of the 
race clearly outlined. We trace these types, and thus learn 
of the warlike achievements of this monarch whose fame 
is carved all over Egypt, and about whose name there is 
an interesting debate. Again and again these war themes 
are repeated, one king after another reciting his conquests 
and his virtues, wars and treaties of peace. It seemed in 
the building of these temples that the intention was to 
make the walls monumental records of the achievements 
of various reigns. When the walls were covered, or a king 
wished to be especially gracious to the priests, or, as is more 
probable, desired to employ his soldiers, he would build a 
new wing or addition to the temple already existing, striv- 



Io6 GENERAL U. S. GRANt's 

Ing, if possible, to make his own addition more magnificent 
than those of his predecessors. In this way came the great 
temple of Karnak. As a consequence, these stupendous, 
inconceivable ruins were not the work of one prince or one 
generation, but of many; and as there was always some- 
thing to add, and always a new ambition coming into play, 
we find these temples, tombs, pyramids and obelisks, all 
piled one upon another, all inspired by the one sentiment, 
and all telling the same story. Here are the records, and 
here are the ruins. If the records read like a tale of en- 
chantment, these ruins look the work of gods. The world 
does not show, except where we have evidences of the con- 
vulsions of nature, a ruin as vast as that of Karnak. Let 
the reader imagine a city covering two banks of the Hud- 
son, running as far as the Battery to Yonkers and back, 
seven miles, all densely built, and you have an idea of the 
extent of Thebes. But this will only give you an idea of 
size. The buildings were not Broadways and Fifth Av- 
enues, but temples and colossal monuments and tombs, the 
greatness of which, and the skill and the patience neces- 
sary to build them, exciting our w^onder to-day. Thebes 
in its day must have been a wonder of the world — even of 
the ancient world, which knew Nineveh and Babylon. 
To-day all that remains are a few villages of mud huts, a 
few houses in stone, flying consular flags, a plain here and 
there strewed with ruins, and under the sand ruins even 
more stupendous than those we now see. 

At Keneh the General and his party landed and in- 
spected the town, making several purchases. The Pacha 
of the province, learning that so illustrious a visitor was in 
his domain, sent couriers at once to invite the General to his 
palace, which was accepted. This palace was a low brick 
building, like a barracks. The visitors were shown into the 
reception chamber, and ranged on the divan. There was a 
long waiting, when the Governor appeared, a stout, pleas- 



TOUR AROUND THE WORLD. I07 

ant looking, gray mustached soldier, in his full uniform of 
a general. He received the General with courtesy, and 
there was the usual exchange of compliments; then came 
the coflfee and the pipes, and the adieu. The Governor ac- 
companied General Grant in his return walk, calling upon 
the German Consul, who had waylaid him and begged that 
he would honor his house. This officer lived in style ap- 
proaching splendor, and when his visitors were served with 
coffee and pipes they noticed that the pipestems were 
amber garnished with diamonds, and the coffeecups were 
of the finest porcelain in cases of silver and gold. These 
ceremonies over, the General and party returned to the 
boat, through a gust of sand. 

At Assouan, a town of four thousand inhabitants, 
five hundred and eighty miles south of Cairo and seven 
hundred and thirty from the Mediteranean, General 
Grant and party intended to end their journey. Assouan 
is the frontier station of Old Egypt, on the boundary of 
Nubia, and supposed to lay directly under the equator. In 
the ancient days the town was a quarry, and here were found 
the stones which became obelisks, temples and tombs. 
When Islam was marching to conquer the world, the Sar- 
acens made a town here and an outpost, and for years was 
the battlefield in the constant strifes and schisms between 
Nubian and Egyptian. At Assouan the aspect of the tour 
changes; we see the Nubian type, the predominance of the 
Negro. The people seem happy enough. They are 
sparing of clothes, live on sugar cane, and lie in the sun — 
a happy, laughing, idle, dirty, good humored race. 

Next day General Grant visited Philae, situated on an 
island at the foot of the first cataract of the Nile. It was by 
far the most interesting and picturesque ruin that our party 
had seen. The island is green, and the date palms of luxu- 
riant growth, and, unlike other portions of Egypt, we miss 
the sand, and can step trippingly over stones and turf. The 



Io8 GENERAL U. S. GRANT's 

river here spreads in various channels, and runs over rocks. 
One channel is used for vessels ascending the river; the 
other for vessels descending the stream. The river is nar- 
row, the banks are steep, and the stream rolls and dashes 
like a sea, the waves roaring and lashing the banks. The 
dano-er is from the rocks and being dashed against its 
banks. 

In the morning the boat's prow is turned, and the Gen- 
eral is moving back toward the Vandalia. On his return 
trip the General stopped over night at Keneh, saw his old 
friend the Governor, stopped an hour at Siout, and on the 
3d of February reached Memphis. Here are the tombs of 
the sacred bull. 

It was believed in the Egyptian mythology that the 
god Osiris came to earth and allowed himself to be put to 
death in order that the souls of the people might be saved. 
After his death there was a resurrection, and the immortal 
part of him passed into a bull, called Apis. 

The ride to the tombs of Memphis was a pleasant one. 
The ruins of Memphis are two or three tombs and the 
serapeum or mausoleum of the sacred bulls. One of the 
tombs being open, the visitors examined it, the walls 
having the same profuse decoration as had been noted at 
other points, entering a long, arched passage, with par- 
allel passages, candles having been placed at various points. 
On each side of this passage were the tombs. Each tomb 
was in its alcove; the bull was placed in a huge sarcophagus, 
the surface finely polished and covered with inscriptions. 
These cofiins were stupendous. The tombs have all been 
violated by the early conquerors, to find gold and silver. 
In most cases the cover has been shoved aside. The 
inside was so large that eight or ten men could enter. 

After finishing this study of the tombs, the party of visit- 
ors rode back to their boat, and in the morning steamed 
down to Cairo. 



TOUR AROUND THE WORLD. IO9 

General Grant had seen the Nile much more rapidly 
than is the custom. 

The General sent for the captain, and thanked him, and 
made him a handsome present, and gave presents to all on 
the boat, including the crew. 

At 12 o'clock the boat passed the bridge and moored 
at the wharf. The General and party returned to the pal- 
ace of Kaser-el-Nousa, where he remained three days, and 
then resumed his journey. 



CHAPTER X. 



TURKEY AND THE HOLY LAND. 

General Grant and party arrived at JafTa on the morning 
of Sunday, February lo, having spent just one month on 
the Nile and vicinity. Upon landing, the visitors at once 
went to Vice-Consul Hardegg, and there found welcome 
and entertainment. There w^as a little archway of 
flowers and bi'anches over the road, surmounted by the in- 
scription, "Welcome, General Grant," and all the town 
was out to do him honor. After visiting all the j^laces of 
interest. General and Mrs. Grant, with four of the officers 
of the Vandalia, prepared to visit the Holy City. Having 
obtained three clumsy open wagons, each drawn by three 
horses, they drove out of the town into the plain of Sharon. 
It was too early in the season to see Palestine in its glory, 
but the plain was rich and fertile. The party reached 
Ramleh at about sundown, and remained over night, resum- 
ing their journey at six in the morning. Passing from the 
plain of Sharon into the country of Joshua and Sampson, the 
road becomes rough and stony, and the carts go bumping, 
thumping over the worst road in the world. The fertility of 
Palestine lies in the plain below. Around and ahead, the 
beauty of Palestine, the beauty of Nature in her deso- 
lation; no houses, no farms, no trace of civilization but the 
telegraph poles. The first biblical view is the ruins of 
Gezer, once a royal city of Canaan. Passing through the 
Kirjath Jearim, the valley of Ajalon and the scene of the 
great battle between David and Goliath, the valley is deep 



TOUH AKOL'ND THE WORLD. Ill 

and the brook still runs a swift course. This was the last, 
ravine this side of the heights of Jerusalem, and one of the 
strongest natural defenses of the city. At this point Gen- 
eral Grant was met by a troop of cavalry, representatives 
from all of the Consulates, delegations from the Americans, 
Jews, Armenians and Greeks, resident in Jerusalem — in all 
quite a small army — and, instead of quietly entering the city 
as he had expected, he was commanded to enter as a con- 
queror, in a triumphal manner. . 

Arrived at the city, General Grant was at once called 
upon by the Pacha and the Consuls. The Bishops and the 
Patriarchs all came and blessed the General and his house. 
The Pacha sent his band of fifty pieces in the evening to 
serenade the ex-President. The Pacha also gave a state 
dinner, which was largely attended. Early the following 
morning General Grant stole away, before the reception 
ceremonies, and walked over the street Via Dolorosa, con- 
secrated to Christianity as the street over which Jesus 
carried His cross. The General lived while in Jerusalem 
^rithm nve minutes' walk of Calvary, ana wirhin sight from 
his chamber. The first place of interest on this street is 
the Coptic monastery. Here Christ sank under the weight 
of the cross. At the ruins of the Hospice of the Knights 
of St. John; here is where Jesus addressed the women 
who followed him. A few steps further and we are at the 
house and tomb of Veronica, who wiped the blood from 
Jesus' holy brows, and left His image on her napkin. De- 
scending a slippery path, and at the corner is the house 
against which Christ leaned, overcome by agony. You 
see a dent in the stone. This dent was made by the hand 
of our Lord, as He stretched it out to support His burden. 
It is smooth and dark with the kisses of millions of believ- 
ing lips. 

The next house is that of Dives, the rich man. At this 
corner Simon of Cvrene took the cross and carried it a 



112 GENERAL U. S. GRANT's 

part of the way. In front of the house of Dives is a stone, 
and over it a hovel. The hovel was the house of the 
beggar; the stone is where he sat in quest of alms, and 
under this archway Jesus stood and pronounced the para- 
ble which is found in the sixteenth chapter of Luke. 
Here the road makes another bend, and we pass a broken 
column, that must at one time have been a stately 
ornament. The column broke where Jesus sank upon 
it, and the fissure is clear and deep. We keep on until we 
come to a church, a bright, new church, with an arch over- 
hanging the street. This is the church of Ecce Homo. It 
was here or hereabouts that the road to the cross began. 
There is a barracks on the site of Pilate's judgment hall. 
We go into the church. Behind the altar is an arch, and 
under this arch Pilate stood when he delivered over Jesus to 
the Jews and washed his hands of innocent blood. Here, 
in an enclosure, was the whipping, the crowning with 
thorns, the decoration with the purple robes, and here also 
Jesus took up the cross, which He carried to Calvary. 

We can readily see, as we retrace our way up the Via 
Dolorosa, that it must have been a rough and weary road 
to one rent and torn and bleeding and crushed under the 
cruel burden of the cross. Even to the wayfarer, in full 
possession of his faculties, it is a tedious task to climb the 
hill of Calvary. 

After finishing the Via Dolorosa, the visitors kept on 
outside of the gates and over the valley of Jehoshaphat. 
Crossing the brook Kedron, the very brook hallowed by 
our Lord's holy and sorrowful footsteps, and ascending the 
hill a short distance, they come to a walled garden. Here 
Jesus knelt and prayed, and made holy forever the Garden 
of Gethsemane. The good monk gathered some flowers 
for Mrs Grant, and for the others twigs and leaves froin 
the " Tree of Agony.'' 

The jxirty climbed the Mount of Olives to the summit. 



TOUR AROUND THE WORLD. 1 I3 

and entered the chapel, said to be the site of the Ascension, 
now a Moslem mosque. From its minerets one can look 
far beyond to the land of Moab, the valley of the Jordan 
and the Dead Sea. Here a French princess has erected a 
tomb, and around the walls of which is the Lord's Prayer 
in thirty-two languages. 

Resuming the walk over a hill, they came to the vil- 
lage of Bethany, where Jesus lived when He preached in 
Jerusalem. Here was Lazarus, His friend, whom He raised 
from the tomb. Here lived Mary and Martha, whom 
Jesus loved. Riding under the overhanging ruins of the 
dwelling in which Jesus found home, shelter, friendship, 
love, they walk around Bethany, which is only a collec- 
tion of ruins and hovels. 

Passing over the graveyard where Lazarus was buried, 
they continue along the road that leads to Jerusalem again, 
by the road sloping at the base of the mountain. It was 
over this road that Jesus rode when He entered Jerusalem 
on an ass. At the head of the hill, Jesus wept over the city 
and prophesied its destruction. 

Entering the city by the Damascus gate, it was but a 
few minutes before General Grant and party reached their 
hotel. The walk had been a long and weary one, yet full 
of interest, every moment awakening a memory of the 
noblest moment of life, and every step taken had been over 
hallowed ground. 

Leaving Jerusalem, they visited Damascus, where their 
stay was made enjoyable by the attention of the Turkish 
officials. 

On March loth General Grant and party arrived at 
Athens, and were escorted by three Greek ironclads, a large 
crowd witnessing the landing. On the 9th they were pre- 
sented to the King and Queen of Greece, and a grand ban- 
quet given in their honor on the loth. The ruins of the 
ancient temples and the Parthenon were brilliantly illu- 
S 



114 GENERAL U. S. GRANT'S 

minated. On the 13th General Grant entertained the King 
of Greece at luncheon on board the United States Steamer 
Vandalia, and also lunched with the King on the 14th at 
the American Legation. The General's reception had been 
enthusiastic and hospitable. 

General Grant reached Naples on Monday evening, and 
proceeded at once to Rome. Here he was visited by 
Cardinal McCloskey, Lieutenant-General Count Sounaz, 
King Humbert's Aid-de-Camp, and all the dignitaries of 
the government, diplomatic agents, and prominent citizens. 
On the 25th, Minister Marsh gave a grand banquet and 
soiree in honor of General Grant. The foreign ministers, 
members of the cabinet, and most of the American resi- 
dents were present. Several days were spent in visiting 
places of interest. 

On May 5th, General Grant arrived at Turin, where he 
met with a hearty and enthusiastic reception, and on the 
7th returned to the gay French capital. On Thursday the 
Ex-President paid visits to President McMahon, the Princf 
of Wales, Due 'd Aosta, the Due Saxe-Coburg, the Prefect 
of the Seine, and the Prefect of Police. On Friday he 
called upon the English, Turkish, Swedish and Japanese 
Ministers; in the afternoon he drove to the Bois de Boulogne 
and witnessed a game of polo, in which he took a lively in- 
terest. On Saturday the General and Mrs. Grant and their 
son visited the ExjDosition. He was received by Chief 
Commissioner McCormick and staff, and by the Commis- 
sioners from the various States of the Union, Minister 
Noyes, Consul-Gencral Torbert and wife, and the leading 
ladies and gentlemen of the American colony in Paris. 

The American marines were drawn up in military 
array, and gave the joarty a military salute on their arrival 
at the American section. 

The General and his party then examined the whole 
American department in detail. They spent a good deal 



TOUR AROUND THE WORLD. I 15 

of time among Tiffany's exhibit, where Bonanza Mackay's 
gorgeous service of silver plate, which cost one hundred 
and fifty thousand dollars, is exhibited. 

Then they proceeded to the machinery department, 
where the General was placed upon a square American plat- 
form — that of the Howe scale. General Grant, in fact, was 
weighed, and for the first time in his life "found wanting," 
having lost seventeen pounds by his Egyptian trip. 

Mr. Cunliffe Owen did the honors, in the Prince of 
Wales' pavilion, to the General and his party. 

A handsome collation was served in the Alimentation 
group. No. 17, of the American department, after which 
the party proceeded to visit the other sections. 

The following week. General Grant was the object of 
further attention, and enjoyed the amenities of Paris life to 
the full, receiving a visit from President McMahon and his 
wife, Prince Hassan of Egypt, Prince Albert and Prince 
Frederick of Austria, Prince and Princess of Denmark. 
The Comte de Paris sent his boxes at the Italian for 
Thursday, and at the grand opera on Friday. He dined 
with Mr. Ridgeway on Saturday. 

One of the pleasant things of the week was General 
Grant's visit to the polo grounds in the Bois de Boulogne. 
The Prince of Wales also went the same day. They wit- 
nessed a very interesting game. General Grant was ac- 
companied by his family and ex-Minister Beale. They 
remained an hour. 

The General said he thought the game might be intro- 
duced with great effect into the cavalry regiments and at 
West Point, as a good school of horsemanship for young 
soldiers. 

The third week of General Grant's stay in Paris was 
equally as pleasant, and every attention shown him. Mr. 
Morton, the banker, gave a " stag " dinner on Monday, and 
the same night Mr. Waddington, the minister of foreign 



Il6 GENERAL U. S. GRANt's 

affairs, gave the grandest ball of the season. Five thousand 
invitations were issued, and there was a perfect crush, but 
the costumes of the ladies were something even for a man 
to rave about. 

On Tuesday the American artist, Healy, gave a ball. 
On Wednesday there was a reception and ball at the Min- 
istry of Agriculture. On Friday Mrs. Hooper's private 
theatricals attracted a distinguished party. On Saturday 
there was a soiree dansante at Mrs. Wagner's, and on Sun- 
day Prince Orloff, the Russian minister, gave a grand 
dinner to General Grant, which proved to be one of the 
most enjoyable entertainments given in his honor. These 
festivities were kept up, with little abatement, until the 
middle of June, when General Grant turned his eyes 
toward the northern lands of Europe, and paid his respects 
to his friends in Paris, and bowed himself out of that daz- 
zling sphere of dissipation, to recuperate in a series of mild 
Dutch festivities — mild compared to the mad whirl of fes- 
tive Paris. 

General Grant arrived at the Hague in safety, and was 
met by Minister Birney, and, with Mrs. Grant, took up his 
residence, by special invitation, in the latter gentleman's 
house. 

Immediately upon the ex-President's arrival — almost 
before he had time to repose himself after his journey — in- 
vitations began to pour in upon him, and the routine of 
dinners, receptions, balls and visits began anew. On 
Monday evening Minister Birney entertained his distin- 
quished guest at a splendid dinner, which proved to be one 
of the great events of the season. Preparations on a large 
scale had been made for this occasion, which was a grati- 
fying success in every respect. 

All the members of the diplomatic corps in the city were 
present at this dinner, which was rendered still more brill- 
iant by the presence of the wives and lady friends of the 



TOUR AROUND THE WORLD. II7 

diplomats. After the dinner, which went off joyously, a 
splendid reception was given, in which the court circle, with 
its picturesque retinue of noble ladies and gentlemen, most 
of the members of Parliament, and other distinguished 
guests, participated. General Grant was, of course, the 
centre of attraction, and was treated with marked deference 
and honors. His manly, soldier-like bearing was admired 
on all sides, and every one was desirous of making his ac- 
quaintance. The reception continued until the small hours 
of morning, and was thoroughly enjoyable from beginning 
to end. 

On Tuesday evening a similar dinner was given in honor 
of the General at the residence of the Minister of For- 
eign Affairs, Baron de Heckeven de Kell. This was also 
followed by a reception no less brilliant than its predecessor. 
On the same day General Grant accepted an invitation to 
visit His Royal Highness Prince Frederic, uncle of the 
King. He chose the forenoon for the purpose of paying 
his respects to the Prince, who entertained him generously 
at a private dejeuner. After this friendly repast, the Prince 
ordered his carriage and had his guest driven through the 
spacious and beautiful grounds of the estate. A call was 
also made on Prince Alexander, son of the King. 

Each day was destined to bring its separate enjoyment. 
Wednesday was set apart for a parade of a portion of the 
troops of Holland, and the General was invited to review 
these sturdy Dutch soldiers, whose martial bearing im- 
pressed him very favorably. A large number- of distin- 
guished ladies and gentlemen were present at the review, 
and the scene was exceedingly picturesque and attractive. 
The troops looked their best, and marched with fine pre- 
cision and dignity. 

The General limited his stay at The Hague, although he 
expressed a hope that he might return there before his de- 
parture. He then took the train for Rotterdam, where he 



Il8 GENERAL U. S. GRANT's 

arrived in a short time. He was received by the Burgo- 
master of that city, and was escorted around and show^n va- 
rious objects of interest by this dignitary. The Burgomas- 
ter gave a dinner in his honor, to which a great many of 
the principal citizens w^ere invited. The affair was very 
social and cordial. 

On Thursday the General made his way into the fa- 
mous city of Amsterdam, where he was greeted by throngs 
of people, who welcomed him in a truly enthusiastic man- 
ner. Several prominent citizens escorted him about, and 
extended to him an invitation for dinner on Saturday eve- 
ning. His residence in Amsterdam, although necessarily 
short, was as^ pleasant as could have been desired. 

General Grant's flying tour on Dutch territory was 
marked by attentions as gracious and as flattering as any he 
had yet received. In the steady, plodding cities of Hol- 
land, the phlegmatic citizens had been excited to enthusi- 
asm by the presence of the ex-President, and signified their 
admiration of his character and achievements by crowd- 
ing the streets which he passed. 



CHAPTER XI. 



GRANT IN GERMANY, NORWAY, SWEDEN, RUSSIA 
AND AUSTRIA. 

On Wednesday, June 26, General Grant and party 
arrived at Berlin, Minister Taylor having met them at 
Stendahl, sixty miles below Berlin. 

On the evening of his coming, he strolled along the 
Unter den Linden, and his Berlin visit may be summed up 
in this sentence, that he walked the greater part of each day, 
and there was not a quarter of Berlin that he did not explore 
on foot with an energy as sightseer which no amount 
of exertion seemed to diminish. The General had an 
early interview with the members of the Congress of 
great diplomats assembled in Berlin to settle the Eastern 
question. 

At an interview with Prince Gortschakoff, the General, 
in company with Mr. Taylor, calling at the Prince's request 
(as the gout prevented the Prince calling on the General), 
Gortschakoff said that Russia would be glad to see and 
welcome the General, and he seemed delighted with the 
visit. Of the members of the Congress, Lord Beaconsfield, 
Lord Salisbury, M. Waddington and Count Corti were 
known to the General. Mehemet Ali he had met in 
Turkey. Visits were exchanged with these gentlemen and 
with the other members of the Congress. 

Among the first calls left on the General was that of 
Prince Bismarck, and as it did not find him at home it was 
left again. As the General was anxious to see the Prince, 



I20 GENERAL U. S. GRANT S 

for whose character and services he had so high an admira- 
tion, he returned these calls at once, and sent His Highness 
a message saying that he would make his visit at any time 
that would suit the Prince, whom he knew to be a busy 
and an ill man. 

The afternoon at four was the hour named for the visit, 
and, as the General lives within a few moments' walk of the 
Bismarck Palace, at five minutes to four he slowly saun- 
tei"ed through the Frederick Place. The Frederick Place 
is a small square, with roads and flowers and some famous 
old trees, laid out in memory of the great Frederick. It is 
decorated with statues of his leading generals. Everything 
runs to war in Germany, and the prevailing religion is 
swordsmanship. In this park are bronze statues of Ziethen, 
Seidlitz, Winterfeldt, Keith, Schwerin, and the Prince of 
Dessau. Passing out of the park, on the right, is the palace 
and home of the famous Prince Bismarck. An iron railing 
separates it from the street, and from the roof the flag of the 
German emjoire floats in the breeze. 

The General saunters into the courtyard, and the sen- 
tinels eye him a moment curiously, and then present arms. 
His visit had been expected, but certainly an ex-President 
of the United States would come in a carriage and six, and 
not quietly on foot. Throwing away a half-smoked cigar as 
he raises his hat in honor of the salute, he advances to the 
door, but before he has time to ring, two servants throw 
them open, and he passes into an open marble hall. Of all 
princes now living, this is, perhaps, the most renowned — 
this of Bismarck-Schinhausen — who comes with a swing- 
ing, bending gait through the opened and opening doors, 
with both hands extended, to meet the General. You note 
that time has borne heavily on the Prince these past few 
years. The iron-grey hair and mustache are nearly white; 
there is weariness in the gait, a tired look in the face. But 
all the lines arc there that arc associated with Bismarck; for 




RUSSIAN TURKO PEACE CONGRESS. 



TOUR AROUND THE WORLD. 121 

if ever manhood, courage, intellect are written on a man's 
face by his Creator, they are written on this face of the 
German Chancellor. There is the lofty station, which 
seems to belong to the Bismarck stamp of men, the bold 
outlines of the brain, under which empires have found their 
fate, the frank, intrepid, penetrating eye, and in that firmly 
knit mouth the courage of the Saxon race. The Prince 
wore an officer's uniform, and, on taking the General's 
hand, said, " Glad to welcome General Grant to Germany." 

The General answered that there was no incident in his 
German visit that more interested him than this opportu- 
nity of meeting the Prince. Bismarck expressed surprise 
at seeing the General so young a man, but on a compari- 
son of ages it was found that Bismarck was only seven 
years the General's senior. 

" That," said the Prince, " shows the value of a military 
life ; for here you have the frame of a young man, while I 
feel like an old man." 

The General, smiling, announced that he was at that 
period of life when he could have no higher compliment 
than being called a young man. By this time the Prince 
had escorted the General to a chair. 

It was his library or study, and an open window looked 
out upon a beautiful park, upon which the warm June sun 
was shining. This is the private park of the Radziwill 
Palace, which is now Bismarck's Berlin home. The library 
is a large, spacious room, the walls a gray marble, and the 
furniture plain. In one corner is a large and high writing- 
desk, where the Chancellor works, and on the varnished 
floors a few rugs are thrown. The Prince speaks English 
"with precision, but slowly, as though lacking in practice, 
now and then taking refuge in a French word, but showing 
a thorough command of the language. 

After inquiring after the health of General Sheridan, 
"who was a fellow-campaigner in France, and became a 



122 GENERAL U. S. GRANT S 

great friend of Bismarck's, they discussed the Eastern ques- 
tion, military armament and strength, and the late atrocious 
attempt to assassinate the Emperor, giving the two great 
men an opportunity to discuss this phase of socialism. In 
speaking of this attempt on the life of the Emperor, the 
Prince paid this glowing tribute to the Emperor: 

" It is so strange, so strange and so sad. Here is an old 
man — one of the kindest old gentlemen in the world — and 
yet they must try and shoot him! There never was a more 
simple, more genuine, more — what shall I say? — more 
humane character than the Emperor's. He is totally un- 
like men born in his station, or many of them, at least. Yoa 
know that men who come into the world in his rank, born 
princes, are apt to think themselves of another race and 
another world. They are apt to take small account of the 
wishes and feelings of others. All their education tends to^ 
deaden the human side. But this Emperor is so much of a 
man in all things! He never did any one a wrong in his 
life. He never wounded any one's feelings; never imposed 
a hardship! He is the most genial and winning of men — 
thinking always, anxious always for the comfort and well- 
fare of his people, of those around him. You cannot con- 
ceive a finer type of the noble, courteous, charitable old 
gentleman, with every high quality of a prince, as well as 
every virtue of a man. I should have supposed that the 
Emperor could have walked alone all over the Empire 
without harm, and yet they must try and shoot him." 

The Prince asked the General when he might have the 
pleasure of seeing Mrs. Grant. The General answered 
that she would receive him at any convenient hour. 

"Then," said the Prince, "I will come to-morrow 
before the Congress meets." 

Both gentlemen arose, and the General renewed the ex- 
pression of his pleasure at having seen a man who was. 
so well known and so highly esteemed in America. 



TOUR AROUND THE WORLD. I2J. 

"General," answered the Prince, "the pleasure and the 
honor are mine. Germany and America have always been 
in SO friendly a relation that nothing delights us more than 
to meet Americans, and especially an American who has 
done so much for his country, and whose name is so much 
honored in Germany as your own." 

The Prince and the General walked side by side to the 
door, and after shaking hands the General passed into the 
square. The guard presented arms, and the General lit 
a fresh cigar and slowly strolled home. 

" I am glad I have seen Bismarck," he remarked. " He 
is a man whose manner and bearing fully justify the opin- 
ions one forms of him. What he says about the Emperor 
was beautifully said, and should be known to all the Ger- 
mans and those who esteem Germany." 

Notable, also, among incidents of the Berlin stay, was a 
quiet, informal reception given to the General by Mr. Tay- 
lor, American Minister. Mr. Taylor was not aware of the 
General's coming until a day or two before his arrival, and 
the news found him an ill man. Then he had had no per- 
sonal acquaintance with the General, and if his home 
political sympathies ran in one direction more than another 
it was not in the direction of the General. Mr. Taylor 
regretted that the state of mourning in which the attempt 
on the Emperor's life had thrown Berlin, and the presence 
of the Congress, prevented his entertaining the General in 
a more ostentatious manner. But he made all the arrange- 
ments with the Court, and gave the General an evening 
party, which all the Americans in Berlin attended. The 
evening was enjoyable and interesting. The next day there 
was a small dinner party at the Embassy, and, in addition,, 
there was a great deal of going around and seeing Berlin 
in a quiet way, which form of foreign life the General en- 
joys beyond any other. 



124 GENERAL U. S. GRANT S , 

The Crown Prince sent word to General Grant asking 
him to name an hour when he would review some troops 
in all arms. The General answered that any hour most 
convenient for the troops would be pleasant to him. So it 
was arranged at half-past seven in the morning. The 
General asked Mr. Coleman, of the Legation, to be one of 
his company. It had rained all night, a heavy, pitching, 
blowing rain, and when the morning came the prayers 
which Mr. Coleman had been offering up all night for 
better weather were found to have availed not. The 
General himself had a severe cold and a chill, which had 
been hanging over him for two days, and when he arose 
he could scarcely speak. There was a suggestion that the 
review be postponed. But the troops were under way, and 
the General would not hear of the suggestion. The place 
selected was the Tempelhof, a large open field outside of 
Berlin. When General Grant drove on the ground in a 
palace carriage he was met by the General commanding 
the Berlin troops and a large staff. A horse from the royal 
stables was in waiting, but the General was suffering so 
much that he would not mount. The rain kept its wild 
way, and the wind swept it in gusts across the open field, 
so much so that in a few moments, even with the protection 
of a carriage, the occupants were all thoroughly drenched. 

The manoauvres went on all the same. There was a 
sham fight with infantry, all the incidents of a real battle 
— moving on the flank, in skirmish line, firing and re- 
treating, firing and advancing. Then came the order to 
fix bayonets and charge at double quick, the soldiers shout- 
ing and cheering as they advanced with that ringing cheer 
which, somehow, no one hears but in Saxon lands, and 
which stirs the blood like a trumpet. General Grant was 
attended by Major Igel, an intelligent officer. The General 
complimented the movements of the troops highly. 



TOUR AROUND THE WORLD. 12^ 

After the manoeuvres and the sham fight, there was a 
march past, the General reviewing- the Hne with bared 
head, to which the pitiless rain showed no mercy. 

" These are fine soldiers," he said, and thanked the com- 
mander for his courtesy. 

Then came artillery practice, the guns firing and sweep- 
ing over the field in a whirling, mad pace. This was fol- 
lowed by an artillery march past, which the General 
reviewed on foot, the rain still beating down. 

Then came cavalry. This was the most interesting 
phase of the display, especially one movement, where the 
battalion broke into disorder and rallied again. 

" This," said the Major, " we do to accustom our men to 
the contingency of disorder on the field, and enable every 
man to know how to take care of himself." 

The movement was effective and beautiful, and showed, 
said the General, the highest state of discipline. It was 
followed by a charge and a march past, the General, on foot, 
reviewing, and the rain whirling like a gust. 

After this they all drove to a military hospital and 
inspected it. Then to the quarters of a cavalry regiment, 
under the command of the Prince of Hohenzollern. The 
General was received by the officers, and went carefully 
through the quarters. After inspection there was a quiet 
mess-room lunch and a good deal of military talk, which 
showed that the General had not forgotten his trade. 

The General, at the close of the lunch, asked permis- 
sion to propose the prosperity of the regiment and the 
health of the Colonel. It was a regiment of which any 
army would be proud, and he hoped a day of trial would 
never come; but, if it did, he was sure it would do its part 
to maintain the ancient success of the Prussian army. He 
also desired to express his thanks to the Crown Prince for 
the pains that had been taken to show him this sample of 
his magnificent army. 



136 GENERAL U. S. GRANT's 

The Prince answered in German, which Major Igel 
translated, that he was much compHmented by the Gen- 
•eral's toast, and that the annals of his regiment would 
always record the pride they felt in having had at their 
mess and as their guest so illustrious a leader. This closed 
the military services of the day. 

About midday a coupe stopped at the door of Minister 
Taylor's residence, and Prince Bismarck descended and 
touched his hat to the crowd. He wore a full military uni- 
form, a gilded helmet covering his brows, and was con- 
ducted to the apartments of the General, who presented the 
Prince to his wife and Mrs. Taylor, the wife of the Minis- 
ter. The Prince expressed again his satisfaction at seeing 
General Grant and his wife in Germany, and hoped Mrs. 
Grant would carry home the best impressions of the coun- 
try. It had been raining, and the skies were heavy with 
•clouds, and the General himself, suffering from a cold, had 
"been sitting in a carnage for two hours, the rain beating 
in his face, watching horsemen, artillery and infantry march 
and countermarch over tne Tempelhof grounds. Altogether 
it had been a trying day, and everybody felt cheerless and 
damp. But Mrs. Grant has a nature that would see as 
much sunshine in Alaska as in Italy, on whose temper rain 
or snow never makes an impression, and she told His High- 
ness how delighted she was with Germany, with Potsdam 
and the Crown Prince, and more especially the Crown 
Princess, whose motherly, womanly ways had won quite a 
place in her womanly, motherly heart. They had had 
pleasant talks about children and households and wedding 
anniversaries, and domestic manners in Germany, and had 
no doubt exchanged a world of that sweet and sacred in- 
formation which ladies like to bestow on one another in the 
confidence of friendly conversation. Moreover, she was 
pleased to sec Prince Bismarck, and expressed that pleasure, 
and there was a half hour of the pleasantest talk, not about 



TOUR AROUND THE WORLD. 1 27 

politics or wars or statesmanship, but on very human 
themes. 

The gentler side of the Prince came into play, and one 
who was present formed the opinion that there was a very 
sunny side to the man of blood and iron. As two o'clock 
drew near, the Prince arose and said: " I must go to my 
Congress, for, you see, although the business does not con- 
cern us greatly, it is business that must be attended to." 
The General escorted the Prince, and as he descended the 
crowd had become dense, for Bismarck rarely appears in 
public, and all Berlin honors him as foremost among Ger- 
man men. 

On July II, the General dined with the Prince. The 
invitation card was in German, not French — a large, plain 
card, as follows: 



FUERSTVON BISMARCK 
beehrt sich General U. S. GRANT zum Diner am Montag, 
den I, Juli, um 6 Unr, ganz ergebenst einzuladen. 
C. A. w. g 



The 7nenu was in French. 

MENU. 

LuNDi, le ler juillet. 

Potage Mulligatawny. 

Pates a la financiere. 

Turbot d'Ostende a I'Anglaise. 

Quartier de boeuf a la Holsteinaise. 

Canetons aux olives. 

Ris de veau a la Milanaise. 

Punch romain. 

Poulardes de Bruxelles. 

Salade. Compotes. 

Fonds d'artichauts a la Hollandaise. 

Pain de Praises a la Chantilly. 

Glaces. 

Dessert. 

The General, with his military habits of promptness, 

entered the palace at six precisely, accompanied by his wife, 



128 GENERAL U. S. GRANT's 

Mr. Bayard Taylor, the Minister, and Mrs. Taylor, and H, 
Sidney Everett, the Secretary of Legation. The Prince 
and Princess Bismarck, and the Countess Marie GrafinVon 
Bismarck, accompanied by the Prince's two sons, met the 
General at the door of the salon and presented him to the 
various guests. There was a hearty greeting for the Min- 
ister and his party, and the Princess and Mrs. Grant were 
soon on the waves of an animated conversation. The 
company numbered about thirty, and a few moments after 
the General's arrival dinner was announced. The Prince 
led the way, escorting Mrs. Grant, who sat on his right, 
with Mrs. Taylor on his left, the General and the Princess 
vis-a-vis, with Mr. Von Schlozer, the German Minister at 
Washington, between. The remainder of the company 
were members of the Cabinet and high persons in Berlin. 

About half-past seven, or later, the dinner was over, 
and the company adjourned to another room. 

General Grant had several interviews with Bismarck, 
and the interchange of opinion and criticism took a wide 
range, and seemed to strengthen the high opinion each had 
for the other. The contrast between the two faces was a 
itudy; no two faces, of this generation, at least, have been 
/nore widely drawn. In expression Bismarck has what 
might be an intense face, a moving, restless eye, that might 
flame in an instant. His conversation is irregular, rapid, 
audacious, with gleams of humor, saying the oddest and 
/rankest things, and enjoying anything that amuses him so 
much that, frequently, he will not, cannot finish the sen- 
tence, for laughing. Grant, whose enjoyment of humor is 
keen, never passes beyond a smile. In conversation he 
talks his theme directly out with care,, avoiding no detail, 
correcting himself if he slips in any, exceedingly accurate 
in statement, and who always talks well, because he never 
talks about what he docs not know. 

One notes in comparing the two faces how much more 




INTERVIEW BETWEEN PRINCE BISMARCK AND GENERAL GRANT. 



TOUR AROUND THE WORLD. I29 

youth there is in that of Grant than of Bismarck. Grant's 
face was tired enough two years ago, when fresh from that 
witches' dame of an Electoral Commission — it had that 
weary look which you see in Bismarck's, but it has gone, 
and of the two men one would certainly deem Grant the 
junior by twenty years. 

Mr. Taylor, the American Minister, was evidently 
impressed with the historical value of the meeting of Grant 
and Bismarck. He remembered a German custom that 
you can never cement a friendship without a glass of old- 
fashioned schnapps. There was a bottle of a famous 
schnapps cordial, among other bottles — no matter how old 
it was — and the Minister said, " General, no patriotic Ger- 
man will believe that there can ever be lasting friendship 
between Germany and the United States unless yourself 
and the Prince pledge eternal amity between all Germans 
and Americans over a glass of this schnapps." The Prince 
laughed, and thanked the Minister for the suggestion. 
The schnapps was poured out, the General and Prince 
touched glasses, and the vows were exchanged in hearty 
fashion. 

General Grant arrived at Gothenburg on the I2th of July. 
He was met by a crowd of over five thousand people, 
who cheered loudly for him of whom they had heard so 
much. The Swedes, who have emigrated in such large 
numbers to the United States, have spread his fame among 
their countrymen at home. The ships in the harbor were 
all decorated in his honor. He passed the day in Gothen- 
burg, and then continued his journey to Christiana. All 
the villages along the route were decorated, and his com- 
ing was made the occasion of a gala day. 

He landed at Christiana on the 13th, and was received 
with great ceremony. Ten thousand people flocked to 
greet him. King Oscar II. came to Christiana from Stock- 
9 



130 GENERAL U. S. GRANTS 

holm to meet the General, and gave him a dinner and a 
reception. 

The General set out sightseeing, and was conducted to 
the old castle of Aggershuus, with its citadel and church 
on the brow of a point jutting out into the fiord, over whose 
winding shore-line and smooth waters, broken by wooded 
islands, it gives a fine view. 

The reception of the ex-President throughout Scandi- 
navia was enthusiastic and remarkable, everywhere the 
citizens turning out eji 7nasse to welcome and honor him. 
At Stockholm, on the 24th, he was tendered a grand state 
banquet and dinner at the Embassy, and was serenaded, 
and a large crowd assembled and cheered him as he 
embarked for Russia. 

General Grant arrived at St. Petersburg July 30. On 
arriving in the Russian capital, he was met by Minister 
Stoughton, whose wonderful coronal of snowy locks never 
shone more magnificently over his rosy cheeks. 

The Emperor's Aid -de-Camp, Prince GortschakofF, anc 
other high officials oi* llix. .inperial court, called immedi- 
ately, welcoming the ex-President in the name of the Czar. 

On the following day General Grant had an audience 
with the Emperor Alexander, which was of a pleasant 
nature. 

The imperial yacht conveyed the General to Peterhof, 
the Verseilles of vSt. Petersburg. It is fifteen miles from 
the capital, but it has one advantage over the old Fi-ench 
royal extra-mural residence in that, from the imperial palace, 
one has almost urivaled views over Cronstadt and the Gulf 
of Finland, and of the capital itself. The fountains were 
played in honor of the visit. 

He afterward visited the great Russian man-of-war, 
Peter the Great. The band played American airs, and a 
royal salute of twenty-one guns was fired. The imperial 



TOUR AROUND THE WORLD. I3I 

yacht then steamed slowly among the Russian fleet lying 
off Cronstadt, the ships running out American colors, and 
the sailors cheering. 

Subsequently the General had an interview with the 
Czar at St. Petersburg. The Emperor manifested great 
cordiality. The General was presented by Prince Gort- 
schakofF. His Majesty talked of his health and the Gen- 
eral's travels. He seemed greatly interested in our national 
wards, the Indians, and made several inquiries as to their 
mode of warfare. 

At the close of the interview, the Emperor accompanied 
General Grant to the door, saying: — 

" Since the foundation of your government, the rela- 
tions between Russia and America have been of the friend- 
liest character; and as long as I live nothing shall be spared 
to continue that friendship." 

The General answered that, although the two govern- 
ments were directly opposite in character, the great major- 
ity of the American people were in sympathy with Russia^ 
and would, he hoped, so continue. 

At the station. General Grant met the Grand Duke 
Alexis, who was very cordial, recalling with pleasure his 
visits to America. 

A visit was also made to the great Chancellor, Prince 
GortschakofF, with whom the General spent some hours, 
smoking and discussing American and European affairs. 

The Czarowitch also received General Grant at special 
audience. 

The French Ambassador gave a dinner to the General, 
and there was a special review of the fire brigade in his 
honor. The attentions of the Emperor and the authorities 
were so marked that he prolonged his stay several days. 

On the 9th instant he was in Moscow, the ancient capital 
of Russia. He dined with Prince Dogoroff on the loth, 



133 GENERAL U. S. GRANTS 

was at Warsaw the 13th. At all of these cities he was 
received with the same marked cordiality, and his visit 
recalled with feelings of pleasure. 

On the iSth our ex-President arrived at Vienna. At 
the railroad station he was met by Minister Kasson, the 
secretaries and members of the American Legation, and a 
large number of the American residents. He was loudly 
cheered as he stepped out of the railway carriage. 

On the 19th the General was visited at the Legation of 
the United States by Count Andrassy, the First Minister 
of the Council, and several colleagues. In the evening he 
dined with the Countess and Mrs. Grant at Post's. On 
the 20th he had an audience of His Imperial Majesty Fran- 
cis Joseph, at the lovely palace of Schoenbrunn, spending 
the remainder of the day driving about the imperial 
grounds and forests, and visiting points of interest in that 
romantic and historic neighborhood. 

On the 2ist General and Mrs. Grant were entertained 
by the imperial family, and dined with the Emperor in the 
evening. During the morning Baron Steinberg accom- 
panied the Emperor's American guests to the Arsenal. 

On the 22d Minister Kasson gave a diplomatic dinner 
in honor of our ex-President, at which nearly all the for- 
eign Ambassadors were present. The members of the 
Austro-Hungarian Cabinet attended the reception in the 
evening, and added to the attractiveness and brilliancy of 
the occasion. The General expressed himself greatly 
pleased with Vienna, and thought it a charming city. He 
was gratified also at the marked attentions of the Emperor's 
household, and the earnest endeavor shown to honor him 
as a citizen of the United States. 

On September 23 General Grant was at Zurich, and 
dined with the American Consul, S. H. Bycrs, at the Hotel 
Bauer. Among the distinguished guests were Burgomas- 



TOUR AROUND THE WORLD. I33 

ter Roemer, of Zurich; Feer-Herzog, a National Council- 
lor; the German poet, Kinkel; General Vogelli, of the 
Swiss army; Mr. Nicholas Fish, the American Charge 
d' Affaires at Berne, and many prominent Swiss citizens. 

When the cloth was removed, Consul Byers, after a few 
appropriate remarks, asked his guests to drink the health 
of his renowned countryman, "who, having led half a mil- 
lion of men to victory, and having governed a great nation 
for eight years, needs no praise from me." General Grant's 
health was then drank with all the honors. The Burgo- 
master expressed. In a brief and happy speech, the interest 
with which the Swiss people followed General Grant's 
career as a soldier and as President of the great Republic, 
and said that the honor done and the pleasure given to the 
citizens of Zurich by ex-President Grant's visit was very 
great. 

In response. General Grant expressed a deep sense of 
pleasure and honor at meeting such distinguished Swiss 
gentlemen. He thanked the citizens of Zurich, through 
their Mayor, for their cordial reception, which he regarded 
as a symbol of the good feeling existing between the two 
countries. The General concluded by proposing the health 
of the President of the Federal Council and nation, and 
the prosperity of the city of Zurich. 

Feer-Herzog replied in an eloquent allusion to the 
amity existing between the two countries, and ended by 
proposing the health of President Hayes. Mr. Nicholas 
Fish responded, testifying to " the memory cherished by 
all true United States citizens of the Switzers who fought 
and died during the American war — giving their lives and 
services from the pure, unselfish sympathy of their hearts 
and their inborn love of freedom. The acts of those heroes 
are to Americans the guarantee of Switzerland's sympathy 
in the hour of need and of despair." 

Other speeches were made, and the dinner was, alto- 



134 GENERAL U. S. GRANT'S 

gether, a thoroughly enjoyable occasion. In every respect 
General Grant's reception in the land of William Tell has 
been as hearty as in any place in Europe. The General 
left for Paris the foUowinsr morning:. 



CHAPTER XII. 



GENERAL GRANT IN SPAIN AND PORTUGAL. 

General Grant arrived at the French capital on Septem- 
ber 25, from Belfort. He was met at the station by 
Minister Noyes, ex-Governor Fairchild, ex-Governor Mc- 
Cormick, and other American officials. The General was 
in excellent health and spirits, and had experienced so little 
fatigue during his journey that, after dining en famille^ he 
strolled along the boulevards for more than two hours. 

A grand dinner was given to the ex-President October 
3 by Mr. Edward F. Noyes, the United States Minister, at 
the Legation. Among the invited guests were the follow- 
ing distinguished Americans: General and Mrs. Grant, 
John Welsh, Minister to England; John A. Kasson, Min- 
ister to Austria; J. Meredith Read, Charge d'AfFaires to 
Greece; General Hazen, United States Army; General 
Lucius Fairchild, Consul-General at Paris; ex-Governor 
McCormick, Commissioner-General to the Paris Exposi- 
tion; ex-Goverrtor Smith, of New Hampshire, and Miss 
Waite, daughter of the Chief Justice of the Supreme 
Court of the United States. 

General Grant, having abandoned his contemplated 
trip to India for the present, concluded to remain in Paris 
and vicinity for the winter, and planned a month's tour 
through Spain, Portugal and Algiers. 

The ex-President and party arrived in Vittoria, hav- 
ing entered Spain from France by the Bayonne route. 
The little town of Irun, which is just over the frontier, 



136 GENERAL U. S. GRANT's 

ijiForded the first glimpse of Spanish life and character. 
Its neat railway station was draped with flags and bunting, 
and on the platform was a group of officers of the royal 
guard, standing apart from those privileged citizens who 
had been admitted within the barriers. Beyond, clearly 
seen through the gates and station windows, struggling for 
a glimpse of the distinguished visitor, were the villagers 
and the country people, who, denied admission to the yard, 
■vrere none the less active in their demonstrations of curi- 
osity. 

As the train drew up at the platform. General Grant 
alighted from his carriage. The ranking officer of the del- 
egation, a general on the staff of Alfonzo XII., advanced, 
and, saluting the visitor, welcomed him, in the King's name, 
to the Iberian Peninsula. He stated that he was directed 
by His Majesty to place at the General's disposal the special 
railway carriage of the King, and to beg an acceptance of 
the same. General Grant expressed his thanks in a few 
w^ords, and accepted the proffered courtesy. The train 
moved out of the little village toward the war-begrimed 
city of San Sebastian — the last stronghold of the Carlists. 

At San Sebastian, General Grant was received by 
I^milio Castelar, ex-President of the Spanish Republic. 
To the well known statesman and journalist, General Grant 
was exceedingly cordial. He concluded his remarks by 
saying: "Believe me, sir, the name of Castelar is espe- 
cially honored in America." Here, as at Irun, were gath- 
ered many people to see General Grant, and he was 
presented to the town officials and the distinguished citi- 
zens. The contracted harbor reflected the green of the 
tree-covered hills that encircle it so nearly, and beyond the 
cone-like isle at its mouth was the sheen of the noonday sun 
on the Bay of Biscay. 

Leaving this place, the road leads southward toward 
Tolosa and Vergara. At both of these stations a squad of 



TOUR AROUND THE WORLD. I37 

soldiers was stationed. The usual military guard had been 
doubled in honor of the American General. After wind- 
ing about the hills beyond the station of Tolosa, the train 
suddenly leaves the defiles behind and smoothly skirts the 
side of a great hill, giving the occupants of the carriages a 
grand view to the southward. Near at hand are seen the 
peaks of the Pyrenees — only the extreme western spur of 
the range, to be sure, but very formidable looking barriers 
to railway engineering. Altogether, the journey is a 
charming, Swiss-like ride, creeping, as the traveler does, 
through what were once dangerous mountain paths, and 
where, even yet, the railway coaches are alternately in the 
wildest forests of scraggy pine and the long-leaved chestnut. 

Passing the summit, the descent southward is soon 
marked by a radical change in the aspect of the country. 
Villages are met more frequently, until, winding toward 
the west through the Welsh-looking hills, the train dashes 
into Vittoria. Here the General was received on alighting 
by the civil and military authorities attached to the King's 
military and civil staff. He repaired at once to his hotel. 
The annual manoeuvres of the Spanish army were being 
held here, and the King and his entire staff were in Vittoria. 
At night the General strolled out through the tangled 
streets of the old part of the town. He inspected the 
bazaars in the Plaza Nueva, and the pretty streets in the 
new portion of the city. The Alameda was crowded 
with people, and the General seemed to enjoy the life al 
fresco almost as much as the citizens of the capital of Alava. 

The following morning General Grant was received by 
King Alfonzo at the Ayunta7niento^ or residence of the 
Alcade, quite a palace in its exterior and interior adorn- 
ments. The King, who speaks English fluently, said that 
he had long had a curiosity to meet the General, whose 
civil and military career was so familiar to him. He said 
there was no man living whom Spain would more gladly 



I3S GENERAL U. S. GRANT's 

honor. The interview was long' and cordial, and much 
good feeling was shown on both sides. 

At eleven o'clock, General Grant, King Alfonzo and a 
splendid retinue of generals, left the King's official resi- 
dence to witness the manceuvres that were to take place on 
the historic field of Vittoria, where the French, under 
Joseph Bonaparte and Jourdaa, were finally crushed in 
Spain by the allies, under Wellington (June 21, 1S13). 

King Alfonzo and General Grant rode at the head of 
the column side by side, His Majesty pointing out the objects 
of interest to the right and the left, and, when the vicinity 
of the famous field was reached, halting for a few minutes 
to indicate to his guest the locations of the different armies 
on that famous June morning. As they proceeded thence,. 
General Concha was called to the side of the King and 
introduced to General Grant. Several other distinguished 
officers were then jDresented. The weather was very fine, 
and the scene was one of great interest to the American 
visitor. General Grant spent all day on horseback, wit- 
nessing the manoeuvres. 

The King and his guest, returned to the city late in the 
afternoon. At night he dined with the King, and the next 
day General Grant reviewed the troops, and at night 
he left for Madrid. Altogether, both at the palace 
and on the field. General Grant's reception was royal in 
pomp and attention, and will be likely to impress the- 
reader with the opinion that in no country has the reception 
of our great soldier been more free, manly and royal than 
in Spain. Met at the frontier by representatives of His 
Majesty, escorted to the presence of the monarch, shown a 
review on the battlefield of Vittoria, and treated in all ways 
as the especial guest of the sovereign, the ex-President cer- 
tainly received in this case every mark of consideration and 
honor that a king could bestow upon a visitor. General 
Grant, it is true, has expressed in Europe the sense of his- 



TOUIl AROUND THE WORLD. 1 39 

satiety with the military shows of Hfe, and they might have 
hit his individual taste more accurately in some other way; 
yet a review^ on a famous battlefield is a piece of historic 
pageantry aside from ordinary reviews; and an honor in 
which history itself is called upon to pay tribute to a visitor 
is not to be had every day. 

The General was especially favored in the conditions un- 
der which he has visited the various nations of Europe, 
meeting all its great statesmen on friendly terms. Bea- 
consfield, Bismarck, Gortschakoff, Gambetta and others 
have chatted with him familiarly, and he has heard much 
from them about the socialists and their crazy theories. In 
Berlin he heard from Bismarck's lips his hot indignation 
over the recent wounding of the Emperor, and now in 
Spain he actually witnesses an attempt on the life of a king.. 
With all the horror of the crime and contempt of the crimi- 
nals which must have entered his mind, he has, doubtless,, 
pondered over the state of society in Europe which makes 
these atrocious attempts seem epidemic. He must have 
recognized a social disease, to diagnose which the statesmen 
he met did not bring unbiassed minds. It would be curi- 
ous to know his impressions on the subject of misgovern- 
ment in Europe. 

The excitement occasioned by the attempt on King 
Alfonso's life was intense. The criminal fired from the 
sidewalk in front of house No. 93 Calle Mayor, not far 
from the arched entrance to the Plaza Mayor. He aimed 
too low, however, and the ball passed through the hand of 
a soldier standing guard on the opposite side of the street. 
The King saw the flash, and, with an involuntary move- 
ment of his hand, checked his horse momentarily. He 
then rode tranquilly onward toward the palace. Several 
women who were standing near the man who fired pointed 
him out with loud cries, and he was at once secured. He 
did not make the slightest attempt to escape. Terrible in- 



140 GENERAL U. S. GRANT S 

dignation was manifested among the people forming the 
crowd that ahnost immediately gathered from the bazaars 
and the markets in the Plaza Mayor — that doleful old en- 
closed square, where the autos da fe and the Jiestas reales 
took place during and even since the days of the Inquisi- 
tion, but now given over to the venders of dates, pome- 
granates and base metal jewelry. Attempts were made to 
wreak summary vengeance upon the assassin when he was 
on his way to the Gobierno Civil. Thence he was soon 
removed to the Captain- Generalcy. 

The prisoner displayed great coolness during his com- 
mitment. He insolently drew a cigar from his pocket, 
which, after having struck a match, he coolly lit and began 
to smoke. He is a very thin man, of medium height, wears 
a light mustache, and has his hair closely cropped. He 
admitted the crime, and triumphantly declared himself a 
socialist and internationalist; but, when interrogated as to 
who his accomplices were, denied that he had acted in con- 
cert with any one. He said that he came alone from Tara- 
gona purposely to kill a king. This was his first serious 
disappointment in life. 

General Grant was standing, when the shot was fired, at 
a window of the Hotel de Paris (situated at the junction of 
the Carrera San Geronimo and the Calle de Alcala), over- 
looking the Pucrta del Sol. This hotel is a long distance 
from the scene of the attack, but looks across the gi-eat cen- 
tral plaza of Madrid, directly down the Calle Mayor. Gen- 
eral Grant, who was following with hi^ eyes the progress 
of the royal cavalcade which had just passed across the 
Pucrta del Sol before him, said that he clearly saw the flash 
of the assassin's pistol. The General had already "booked" 
for Lisbon by the night train leaving at seven o'clock, and 
therefore could not in person present his congratulations to 
King Alfonso; but to Scnor Silvera, the Minister of State, 
who called soon after and accompanied him to the railway 



TOUR AROUND THE WORLD. I41 

station, General Grant expressed his sympathies, and re- 
grets that he was unable to jDostpone his journey in order 
that he might personally call upon His Majesty. He 
begged Senor Silvera to convey to the King his sincere 
congratulations on his escape from the assassin's bullet. 
There was a great gathering of diplomats, nobles and men 
of all parties at the palace to offer congratulations on Friday 
night and Saturday morning. Marshal Serrano (Duke de 
la Torre) was one of the first callers. Minister James 
Russell Lowell and Mr. Ried, Secretary of Legation, called 
at the palace Saturday, and expressed their gratification at 
the King's escape. The King made light of the whole 
affair, but the popular indignation was intense. 

General Grant dined with King Luis at Lisbon, 
November i . All the members of the ministry were present, 
including the Marquis of Avilae Bolama, Minister of State 
and of Foreign Affairs; Conseilhero J. de Mello e Gauvea, 
Finance Minister; Conseilhero J. de Sande Magalhaes 
Mexia Salema, Minister of Justice; Conseilhero A. F. de 
Sousa Pinto, Minister of War; the Count De Castro, and 
other members of the judiciary and military dejDartments 
of the kingdom. The palace was gayly trimmed with 
flags, and the day was a festival throughout the city. 

King Luis' reception of the ex-President of the United 
States was very cordial. His Majesty offered the General 
the highest decoration of knighthood known to the king- 
dom. General Grant thanked the King, but said he was 
compelled to decline the honors, as the laws of the United 
States made it impossible for an officer to wear decorations, 
and, although he was not now in office, he preferred to 
respect the Law. He thanked His Majesty heartily for the 
honor intended. King Luis then offered him a copy of his 
translation of " Hamlet " into Portuguese, which General 
Grant accepted with many thanks. 

Amoug the pleasantest experiences of his European 



142 GENERAL V. S. GRANT's 

tour General Grant will certainly rank his cordial reception 
by King Luis at Lisbon. Overshadowed as Portugal is 
politically by the greater power on the Iberian Peninsula, 
it has a sturdy life of its own, which, until thrones are abol- 
ished, it promises to retain. The house of Braganza, which, 
through the stress of circumstances, sent its scions to this 
side of the Atlantic, builded better than it knew. In Brazil 
it found a scope for its usefulness that it could not have 
hoped for in the narrower limits of the parent kingdom. 
The coming of General Grant was, doubtless, quite an im- 
portant event in the somewhat dull routine of court life at 
Lisbon, and everything appears to have been done to make 
it pleasant and memorable for the guest. General Grant's 
polite but firm refusal to accept the highest order of knight- 
hood in the kingdom may have come with a certain shock 
to the monarch, for kings are seldom refused in such matters. 

The ex-President arrived at Seville on the Sth, and was 
received with great honor by the civil and military author- 
ities of the city. The populace showed every mark of 
respect to the distinguished ^imerican, itnd the bearing or 
the officials was most cordial. On Friday he breakfasted 
with the Duke de Montpensier, father of the late Queen 
Mercedes. 

On Tuesday he reached Cadiz. He was received at 
the landing place by the Mayor of the city and the civil 
and military officials. A guard of honor was in attendance, 
and a large crowd cheered the ex-President as he passed 
out. The reception was most enthusiastic on the part of 
the people, and very cordial on that of the authorities. 

On the 17th General Grant and party left Cadiz for 
Gibraltar. The sea was very calm, and the delightful 
voyage was greatly enjoyed by all. The first welcome sight 
to the visitors was the American flag flying from one of 
our men-of-war. There was some trouble in distinguish- 
ing the vessel until a near approach, when old friends 



TOUK AROUND THE WORLD. I43 

were recognized in the persons of Captain Robeson and 
shipmates of the Vandal ia. 

The General directed his vessel to steam around the 
Vandalia, and cordial greetings were exchanged between 
the two ships. As they headed into port, the Vandalia 
mounted her yards, and Captain Robeson came in his 
barge to take the General on shore. The American 
Consul, Mr. Sprague, and two officers of Lord Napier's 
staff, met the General and welcomed him to Gibraltar in 
the name of the General commanding. Amid a high sea, 
which threw its spray over most of the party, they pulled 
ashore. On landing, a guard of honor presented arms, and 
the General drove at once to the house of Mr. Sprague, on 
the hill. 

Mr. Sprague has lived many years at Gibraltar, and 
is the oldest consular officer in the service of the United 
States. General Grant was the third ex-President he has 
entertained at his house. Lord Napier, of Magdala, the 
commander at Gibraltar, had telegraphed to Cadiz, ask« 
ing the General to dinner on tne evenmg of his arrival. 
At seven o'clock, the General and Mrs. Grant, accompa- 
nied by the Consul, went to the palace of the Governor, 
called The Convent, and were received in the most hospi- 
table manner by Lord Napier. His Lordship had expressed 
a great desire to meet General Grant, and relations of cour- 
tesy had passed between them before — Lord Napier, who 
commanded the expeditionary force in Abyssinia, having 
sent General Grant King Theodore's bible. The visit to 
Gibraltar may be summed up in a series of dinners — first, 
at the Governor's palace ; second, with the mess of the Royal 
Artillery; again, at the Consul's. Then there were one or 
two private and informal dinners at Lord Napier's; and, in 
fact, most of General Grant's time at Gibraltar was spent 
in the company of this distinguished commander — a stroll 
around the batteries, a ride over the hills, a gallop along the 



144 GENERAL U. S. GRANT S 

beach, a review of troops, and taking part in a sham battle^ 
Lord Napier was anxious to show Genei"al Grant his troops^ 
and although, as those who know the General can tes- 
tify, he has a special aversion to military display, he spent 
an afternoon in witnessing a march past of the British gar- 
rison, and afterward a sham battle. It was a beautiful 
day for the mancEuvres. General Grant rode to the field, 
accompanied by Lord Napier, Gen. Conolly, and others of 
the staff. Mrs. Grant, accompanied by the Consul and the 
ladies of the Consul's family, followed, and took up her 
station by the reviewing post. The English bands all 
played American airs out of compliment to the General, 
and the review was given in his honor. Lord Napier was 
exceedingly pleased with the troops, and said to General 
Grant he supposed they were on their best behavior, as he 
had never seen them do so well. The General examined 
them very closely, and said that he did not see how their 
discipline could be improved. " I have seen," said the 
General, "most of the troops of Europe; they all seemed 
good; I liked the Germans very much, and the Spaniards 
only wanted good officers, so far as I could see, to bring 
them up to the highest standard ; but these have something 
about them — I suppose it is their Saxon blood — which 
none of the rest possess; they have the swing of conquest.'* 

The General would have liked to have remained at Gib- 
raltar longer, but there is nothing in the town beyond the 
garrison. We suppose his real attraction to the place was 
the pleasure he found in Lord Napier's society, and again 
coming in contact with English ways and customs, after 
having been so long with the stranger. 

General Grant spent several days at Pan, where he was 
engaged in hunting, and making short journeys into the 
Pyrenees. He returned to Paris on the nth of December, 
having accepted the offer of President Hayes to go to India 
on the United States corvette Richmond. The President's 



TOUR AROUND THE WORLD. I45 

offer was made in the most flattering terms. After visiting 
Ireland, his plan was to embark at Marseilles and proceed 
direct to India via the Suez Canal. In no country had the 
great American soldier been more royally received, or 
favored with more noteworthy associations, than in Spain 
and Portugal. 
ic 



CHAPTER XIII. 



GENERAL GRANT IN IRELAND. 

If anything was a moral certainty, it was that when 
General Grant visited Ireland he would meet with a popu- 
lar reception of the most enthusiastic description. That 
he was a great and successful soldier was a high claim upon 
a people with such admiration of the chivalrous; that he 
had led to victory so many thousands of Irishmen and son* 
of Irishmen in the war for the Union, brought him still 
closer to them, for there is scarcely a household in all Ire- 
land that has not some family link with the Irish beyond 
the Atlantic. To him Fame justly ascribes the salvation 
of that government and that flag under which the famine- 
stricken, the oppressed and the evicted of Ireland had found 
homes, prosperity and freedom. During the war for the 
Union the people of Ireland prayed, like Lincoln at Get- 
tjsburg, that this " government of the people, for the peo- 
ple and by the people, should not perish from the earth." 
They could not fit out ships to fight the Alabamas that En- 
gland was letting go, but they sent out many a sturdy son to 
do battle for the Union. To an immense proportion of the 
Irish people General Grant typifies the republican form of 
government which they hope for. By the officials of the 
British government General Grant was, of course, received 
as a foremost citizen of a friendly power; but it was in its 
popular feature that his visit was the most interesting. 

General Grant and family, accomj^anied by Minister 
N(jycs, arrived in Dublin, by boat, on the morning of 



TOUli AROUND THE WORLD. I47 

January 3, 1S79. The ex-President was met by repre- 
sentatives of the corporation. He was driven to the Shel- 
bourne Hotel, and at once prepared to visit the City Hall 
to meet the Lord Mayor. The city was full of strangers, 
and much enthusiasm was manifested when the General 
and his party left their hotel to drive to the Mansion House. 
On arriving at the Mayor's official residence, they were 
cheered by a large crowd that had gathered to greet the 
illustrious ex-President. The Lord Mayor, in presenting 
the freedom of the city, referred to the cordiality always 
existing between America and Ireland, and hoped that in 
America General Grant v/ould do everything he could to 
help a people who sympathize with every American move- 
ment. The parchment, on which was engrossed the free- 
dom of the city, was inclosed in an ancient, carved bog-oak 
casket. 

General Grant appeared to be highly impressed by the 
generous language of the Lord Mayor. He replied: "I 
feel very proud of being made a citizen of the principal city 
of Ireland, and no honor that I have received has given me 
greater satisfaction. I am by birth the citizen of a country 
where there are more Irishmen, native born or by descent, 
than in all Ireland. When in office I had the honor — and 
it was a great one, indeed — of representing more Irishmen 
and descendants of Irishmen than does Her Majesty the 
Queen of England. I am not an eloquent speaker, and can 
simply thank you for the great courtesy you have shown 
me." Three cheers were given for General Grant at the 
close of his remarks, and then three more were added for 
the people of the United States. 

Mr. Isaac Butt, the well known home-rule member 
of Parliament, speaking as the first honorary freeman of 
this city, congratulated General Grant on having consoli- 
dated into peace and harmony the turbulent political and 
sectional elements over which he triumphed as a soldier. 



148 GENERAL U. S. GRANT'S 

His speech throughout was highly complimentai-y of the 
ex-President. 

In the evening a grand banquet was given in honor of 
the ex-President, over two hundred guests being present. 

The Lord Mayor presided. General Noyes returned 
thanks for a toast to President Hayes' health. When Gen- 
eral Grant's name was proposed, the company arose and 
gave the Irish welcome. 

The ex-President made in response the longest speech 
of his life, speaking in a clear voice, and being listened to 
with rapt attention. He referred to himself and fellow citi- 
zens of Dublin, and intimated, amid much laughter and 
cheering, that he might return to Dublin one day and run 
against Barrington for Mayor, and Butt for Parliament. 
He warned those gentlemen that he was generally a troub- 
lesome candidate. 

Then passing to serious matters, the General said: — 
" We have heard some words spoken about our country — 
my country, before I was naturalized in another. We 
have a very great country, a prosperous country, with room 
for a great many people. We have been suffering for 
some years from very great oppression. The world has 
felt it. There is no question about the fact that, when you 
have forty-five millions of consumers such as we are, and 
when they are made to feel poverty, then the whole world 
must feel it. 

" You have had here great prosperity because of our 
great extravagance and our great misfortunes. We had a 
war which drew into it almost every man who could bear 
arms, and my friend who spoke so eloquently to you a 
few moments ago lost a leg in it. You did not observe 
that, perhaps, as he has a wooden one in place of it. 

"When that great conflict was going on, we were spend- 
ing one thousand million dollars a year more than we were 
producing, and Europe got every dollar of it. It made for 



TOUR AROUND THE WORLD. 



149 



you a false prosperity. You were getting our bonds and 
our promises to pay. You were cashing them yourselves. 
That made great prosperity, and made producers beyond 
the real necessities of the world at peace. But we finally 
got through that great conflict, and with an inflated cur- 
rency which was far below the specie you use here. It 
made our joeople still more extravagant. Our speculations 
were going on, and we still continued to spend three or 
four hundred millions of money per year more than we 
were producing, 

"We paid it back to you for your labor and manufac- 
tures, and it made you apparently and really prosperous. 
We, on the other hand, were getting really poor, but being 
honest, however, we came to the day of solid, honest pay- 
ment. We came down to the necessity of selling more 
than we bought. Now we have turned the corner. We 
have had our days of depression ; yours is just coming on. 
I hope it is nearly over. Our prosperity is commencing, 
and as we become prosperous you will, too, because we 
become increased consumers of your products as well as 
our own. I think it safe to say that the United States, 
with a few years' more such prosperity, will consume as 
much more as they did. Two distinguished men have 
alluded to this subject — one was the President of the 
United States, and he said that the prosperity of the United 
States would be felt to the bounds of the civilized world. 
The other was Lord Beaconsfield, the most far-seeing man, 
the one who seems to me to see as far into the future as 
any man I know, and he says the same as President 
Hayes." 

General Grant's speech created a profound sensation, 
and was loudly cheered during its delivery. 

The following morning ex-President Grant, Mr. Noyes 
and Mr. Badeau visited the Royal Irish Academy, in Kil- 
dare Street, in company with Lord Mayor Barrington. 



I^O GENERAL U. S. GRANT S 

Here, after some time spent in inspecting the treasures of 
ancient Irish art in gold, silver and bronze, Saint Patrick's 
bell and sacred cross, and O'Donnell's casque, the party 
went to the buildmg that was the old Parliament house. It 
is now the bank of Ireland, and the walls which formerly 
echoed with the eloquence of Grattan, Curran and Plunk- 
ett, now resound with the chaffering of the money 
changers. Trinity College was then visited. The party 
was received by the Provost and Fellows and escorted 
through the library, chapel and halls of this venerable and 
majestic pile. 

General Grant drove to the vice-regal lodge of the 
Duke of Marlborough, Phoenix Park, early in the after- 
noon, where he had dejeuner with the Viceroy. He 
afterward visited the Zoological Gardens, then returned to 
his hotel, where he rested a couple of hours. 

It may be interesting to notice the contrast between the 
generous welcome extended to General Grant by the peo- 
ple of Dublin, and the uncalled-for and spiteful slight aimed 
at him by a clique of the Cork City Council, as showing 
to what lengths sectional and religious agitation are some- 
times carried. The United States Consul at Cork addressed 
a letter to the Council, announcing that Grant would 
probably arrive in Cork within a few days. Mr. Tracy, a 
nationalist, proposed at the Council meeting that the letter 
should simply be marked "read," and that no action should 
be taken. Mr. Harris, a conservative, said : " It will be 
to the interest of our fellow-countrymen in the United 
States if a proper reception is accorded to General Grant, 
who represents the governing party in that country. There 
can be no personal antipathy to the gentleman himself; 
neither was there anything in the government of the ex- 
President objectionable to the Irish people nor unpleasant 
to the Irish in America. Probably General Grant would 
again be at the head of the United States, in which event 



TOUR AROUND THE WORLD. I5I 

it would be to the interest of our fellow-countrymen in 
America if projDcr recognition was given to General Grant 
on his arrival at Cork." 

Mr. Barry, an extreme nationalist, said the ex-President 
had insulted the Irish people in America. He got up the 
" No Popery " cry there. 

Mr. Tracy said it would be unbecoming for the Catholic 
constituency of Cork to welcome such a man. It would 
be ungenerous to refuse him hospitality if he deserved it, 
but he saw nothing in General Grant's career that called 
for sympathy from the Irish nation. He never thouglit of 
the Irish race as he thought of others, and he went out of 
his way to insult their religion. 

Mr. Dwyer, an advanced nationalist, would not couple 
General Grant's name with America. The Irish who 
soug-ht a refuge and a home in the United States had re- 
ceived kindness and attention from the American people. 
President Grant had never given them the same recogni- 
tion as the other inhabitants. It would be an impropriety 
to pay any mark of respect personally to General Grant. 

Messrs. McSweeny and Creedon, nationalists, spoke to 
the same effect, and with a great shout of " Aye," there 
being no dissenting voices, Cork refused to receive General 
Grant. 

The New York Herald^ commenting on this action of 
the City Council of Cork, said : 

" The Town Council of Cork has done more to ad- 
vertise itself in connection with General Grant than the 
municipal authority of any other city in Europe. The 
respectful hospitalities of which the American ex-Presi- 
dent has been the object since he left his native shore» 
nearly two years ago have been so constant, so uniform, 
so unbroken, that the recital of them was beginning to 
pall upon public attention. Monotony at last grows 
tiresome, even if it be a monotony of highly seasoned com- 



152 GENERAL U. S. GRANt's 

pliments. A break of continuity in the long round of 
festive receptions given to General Grant heightens their 
effect by a little dash of contrast. It is like one of those 
rough lines which poets sometimes introduce into their 
compositions to recall attention to the harmony which 
pervades the general structure of their verse." 

" The Town Council of Cork has made a discovery 
which had escaped the rest of Catholic Europe and of 
Catholic Ireland. It proclaims, as a justification of its dis- 
courtesy, that President Grant went out of his way to 
insult its religion. The deeds of General Grant have not 
been done in a corner, and it seems odd enough that it was 
reserved for the Town Council of Cork to detect and pro- 
claim a fact which has escaped the knowledge of Europe and 
America. Our traveling ex-President has been as warmly 
received in Catholic Italy and Spain as in Protestant 
England and Germany; he has been as much honored by 
the Catholic President MacMahon, as by the Protestant, 
Queen Victoria; and even Catholic Dublin has not fallen 
behind the sister cities of the United Kingdom. The 
Town Council of Cork would seem to be better Catholics 
than the Pope himself. 

" General Grant had decided, before learning of the 
singular action at Cork, that it would not suit his conven- 
ience to pay a visit to that city. He thinks that its author- 
ities have convicted themselves of a strange inattention to 
American history. It is, indeed, well enough known that 
General Grant is not a Catholic; but it is equally well 
known that he is superior to all narrow and illiberal pre- 
judices against members of that communion. His two 
most intimate friends in the army are General Sherman and 
Lieutenant-General Sheridan, both Catholics. He did all in 
his power to advance the interests of these distinguished 
soldiers before he became President, and after his accession 
he jiromotcd them to the two highest positions in the 



TOUR AKOUN'D THE WORLD. I53 

American army. His zealous friendship was not founded 
on their religion, but their personal qualities; but their 
Catholic connection never abated in the least his generous 
care of their interests. In civil affairs his freedom from 
religious bigotry has been equally genuine, though less con- 
•spicuous. He appointed Mr. Thomas Murphy Collector 
■of the Port of New York, one of the most important and 
responsible positions in the civil service, and both in office 
and out of office Mr. Murphy was treated by him as an 
intimate personal friend and favorite. 

" We suppose the Cork orators must have heard of 
President Grant's Des Moines speech, in which he declared 
himself in favor of anti-sectarian free schools. But many 
American Catholics are supporters of our common school 
system. The ablest and most distinguished Catholic now in 
public life in this country. Senator Kernan, has always been 
a steady friend of our common schools. He was for many 
years the most efficient member of the School Board of 
Utica, the city of his residence. The Town Council of 
Cork has acted on a misconception, and its members have 
reason to be heartily ashamed of their ignorance, as well 
as of their illiberality and discourtesy." 

This action of the city of Cork produced a profound 
•sensation throughout Ireland, the people looking at it as a 
violation of the rites of hospitality. General Grant smiled 
when told of the action of the Cork Councilmen, and said 
he was sorry the Cork people knew so little of American 
history. 

The respectable liberals and conservatives of the city 
and county of Cork were indignant at the action of the 
clique in the Council who insulted ex-President Grant. An 
ex-Mayor of the city said : " The obstructionists who op- 
posed a cead 7niUe failthe to General Grant are not worth 
a decent man rubbing up against. It is a pity that the 
General has determined to return to Paris instead of visit- 



154 GENERAL U. S. GKANT's 

ing Cork, where he would have received such an ovation 
from the self-respecting populace as would prove that the 
Irish heart beats in sympathy with America." 

General Grant quietly left Dublin on Monday morning, 
January 6, Lord Mayor Barrington taking leave of him 
at the railway station. The morning was cold, and, as the 
train progressed northward, ice, snow, cold winds and 
finally rain were encountered. At Dundalk, Omagh, Stra- 
bane and other stations, large crowds were assembled and 
the people cheered the ex-President, putting their hands 
into the cars and shaking hands with him whenever pos- 
sible. The expressions of ill-feeling toward General Grant 
in Cork had aroused the Protestant sentiments of the Irish 
people of Ulster in his favor. 

At two o'clock the train reached Derry. A heavy rain 
had covered the ground with ice, rendering the view of the 
city and surroundings most charming, as seen through the 
mists and gossamer of falling snow. At the station an im- 
mense crowd, apparently the whole town and neighbor- 
hood, had assembled. The multitude was held in check by 
the police. The Mayor welcomed General Grant cordially, 
and he left the station amid great cheering, mingled with 
groans from the nationalist members of the crowd, who 
called out, " Why did n't ye receive O'Connor Power ?'* 
The great majority of the crowd cheered madly, and fol- 
lowed General Grant's carriage to the hotel. The ships in 
the harbor were decorated with flags and streamers, and 
the town was en fete. A remarkably cold, driving rain 
set in at three o'clock, just as General Grant and his party 
drove in state to the ancient town hall. The crowd was so 
dense near the hall that progress through it was made with 
great difficulty. At the entrance of the building the 
Mayor and Council, in their robes of oflice, received the 
ex-President. Amid many expressions of enthusiasm from 
the people of Londonderry, an address was read extolling 



TOUK AKOUND THIi WOULD. 



155 



the military and civil career of General Grant, which was 
pronounced second in honor only to that of Washington. 

General Grant signed the roll, thus making himself an 
Ulster Irishman. He then made a brief address. He said 
that no incident of his trip was more i^leasant than accept- 
ing citizenship at the hands of the representatives of this 
ancient and honored city, with whose history the people of 
America were so familiar. He regretted that his stay in 
Ireland would be so brief. He had originally intended 
embarking from Queenstown direct for the United States, 
in which case he would have remamed a much longer time 
on the snug little island; but, having resolved to visit India, 
he was compelled to make his stay short. He could not, 
however, he said in conclusion, return home without seeing 
Ireland and a people in whose welfare the people of the 
United States took so deep an interest. The ex-President 
returned to his hotel, making a short visit at the house of 
Consul Livermore en route. 

A banquet was tendered to the General, at which he 
was present. The leading citizens of the province of 
Ulster attended, and the dinner was remarkably good. 
The recej^tion of the ex-President was enthusiastic and cor- 
dial in the extreme. General Grant, in response to a toast, 
made a brief speech, saying that he should have felt that 
his tour in Europe was incomplete had he not seen the 
ancient and illustrious city of Londonderry, whose history 
was so well known throughout America. Indeed, the 
people of Derry, and all about there, had had a remarkable 
influence upon the development of American character. 
He cordially welcomed to the United States all the Irish- 
men who chose to make their homes there, and this was 
a welcome shared by the American people. Minister 
Noyes made a speech of the same general tenor, and at 
eleven o'clock the company separated. 

The following morning General Grant strolled aboutj 



156 GENERAL U. S. GRANt's 

looking at the historic walls, visiting Walker's Pillar, Roar- 
ing Meg, and the other curiosities of the town. The Gen- 
eral's treatment by the people of Londonderry during his 
stay was unusually cordial. 

General Grant's tour in Ulster was, in some respects, the 
most remarkable of his European experiences. People 
resented the action of the city of Cork as a slander upon 
Irish hospitality. 

General Grant left Derry on the 7th, accompanied by 
Sir Hervey Bruce, Lieutenant of the county, Mr. Taylor, 
M. P. for Coleraine, and other local magnates. A cold 
rain and mists, coming fi-om the Northern Ocean, obscured 
the wonderful view of the Northern Irish coast. The 
General studied the country closely, remarking on the 
sparseness of the population, and saying he could see no 
evidence of the presence of seven millions of people in 
Ireland. 

At every station there were crowds assembled, and, 
when the cars stopped, the people rushed forward to 
shake hands with the General. Some were old soldiers 
who had been in the American army. One remarked that 
Grant had captured him at Paducah. Another asked Gen- 
eral Grant to give him a shilling in remembrance of old 
times. The people were all kindly, cheering for Grant and 
America. At Coleraine there was an immense crowd. 
General Grant, accompanied by the Member of Par- 
liament, Mr. Taylor, left the cars, entered the waiting-room 
at the depot, and received an address. In reply. General 
Grant repeated the hope and belief, expressed in his Dublin 
speech, that the period of depression was ended, and that 
American prosperity was aiding Irish prosperity. At 
Bally money there was another crowd. As the train neared 
IBclfast, a heavy rain began to fall. 

The train reached Belfast station at half-past two 
«/'clock. The reception accorded General Grant was im- 



TOUR AROUND THE WORLD. I57 

posing and extraordinary. The linen and other mills had 
stopped work, and the workmen stood out in the rain in 
thousands. The platform of the station was covered with 
scarlet carpet. The Mayor and Members of the City 
Council welcomed the General, who descended from the 
car amid tremendous cheers. Crowds ran after the car- 
riages containing the city authorities and their illustrious 
guest, and afterward surrounded the hotel where the Gen- 
eral was entertained. Belfast was en fete. The public 
buildings were draped with American and English colors, 
and in a few instances with orange flags. Luncheon was 
served at four o'clock, and the crowd, with undaunted valor, 
remained outside amid a heavy snow storm, and cheered at 
intervals. The feature of the luncheon was the presence 
of the Roman Catholic Bishop of the diocese, who was 
given the post of honor. The luncheon party numbered 
one hundred and seventy — the Mayor said he could have 
had five thousand. 

The Belfast speakers made cordial allusions to many 
people in America, and were anxious to have Grant de- 
clare himself in favor of free trade, but the General in his 
reply made no allusions to the subject, to the disappoint- 
ment of many of those present. ^linister Noyes made a 
hit in his speech when he said that General Grant showed 
his appreciation of Belfast men by appointing A. T. Stew- 
art, of Belfast, Secretary of the Treasury, and offering 
George H. Stuart, a Belfast boy, the portfolio of Secretary 
of the Navy. 

After the luncheon was over, General Grant remained 
quietly in his apartments, receiving many calls, some from 
old soldiers who served under him during the war. 

At ten o'clock on the morning of January 9, General 
Grant and his party, accompanied by Mayor Brown, vis- 
ited several of the large mills and industrial establishments 
of the city. Before he left the hotel he was waited on by 



158 GENERAL U. S, GRANT's 

I number of the leading citizens and several clergymen. 
Bishop Ryan, the Catholic Bishop of Buffalo, and Mr. 
Cronm, editor of the Catholic Union, were among the 
callers, and had a pleasant interview. The General then 
drove to the warehouses of several merchants in the linen 
trade, to the factories and shipyards. At the immense ship- 
yard where the White Star steamers were built, the work- 
men, numbering two thousand, gathered around Grant's 
carriage and cheered as they ran alongside. The public 
buildings and many of the shops were decorated. The 
weather was clear and cold. 

At three o'clock in the afternoon the General left for 
Dublin. Immense crowds had gathered at the hotel and 
at the railway station. The Mayor, with Sir John Pres- 
ton and the American Consul, James M. Donnan, accom- 
panied the General to the depot. As the train moved off 
the crowd gave tremendous cheers, the Mayor taking the 
initiative. One Irishman in an advanced stage of enthusi- 
asm called out: "Three cheers for Oliver Cromwell 
Grant!" To this there was only a fahit response. 

At Portadow^n, Dundalk, Drogheda and other stations, 
there were immense crowds, the populations apparently 
turning out en ??zasse. Grant was loudly cheered, and 
thousands surrounded the car with the hope of being able 
to shake the General by the hand, all wishing him a safe 
journey. One little girl created considerable merriment 
bj asking the General to give her love to her aunt in 
America. All the Belfast journals, in more or less acri- 
monious terms, denounced the action of the Council of Cork. 
At Dundalk, the brother of Robert Nugent, who was 
Lieutenant-Colonel of the Sixty-ninth New York Regi- 
ment in 1861, and afterward commander of a brigade in the 
Second Corps, Army of the Potomac, said he was glad to 
welcome his brother's old commander. 

The Belfast limited mail train, conveying General 



TOUR AROUND IHK WORLD. 1 59 

Grant, arrived at Dublin fourteen minutes behind time on 
the Sth. Lord Mayor Barrington and a considerable num- 
ber of persons were on the platform at the railway station, 
and cordially welcomed the General. As soon as all the 
party had descended, the Lord Mayor invited the General 
into his carriage and drove him to Westward Row, where 
the Irish mail train was ready to depart, having been de- 
tained eight minutes for the ex-President. 

There was a most cordial farewell and a great shaking 
of hands. The Mayor and his friends begged General Grant 
to return soon and make a longer stay. Soon Kingston was 
reached, and in a few minutes the party were in the special 
cabin which had been provided for them on board the mail 
steamer. Special attention was paid to the General by the 
cfiicers of the vessel. General Grant left the Irish shores at 
twenty minutes past seven o'clock. 

When the steamer was about to start, the Inspector of 
Detectives inquired minutely concernmg each member of 
the General's party then on board, apparently to satisfy him- 
self that t'ney were exactly the same gentlemen who landeu 
here five da3's before, and that none who came were disguised 
Fenian emissaries masquerading as American generals, and 
who had remained behind while allowing some of their ac- 
complices to get away under the same disguise. 

In his reception at Belfast was shown, down to the very 
moment of his departure, an exuberant enthusiasm of 
welcome, that is, perhaps, justly understood as owing some 
part of its warmth to a desire to protest against the Cork- 
onian blunder. His welcome at Dublin by the Lord Mayor 
was another pleasant tribute of good will; while the un- 
easiness of the police inspector, eager to know whether 
this descent of a foreign soldier on Irish soil was not, after 
all, some Fenian project in disguise, was characteristic, 
laughable, and perhaps the best a policeman could do in the 
way of a compliment. General Grant's visit to Ireland was 



l6o GENERAL U. S. GRANt's 

ended; and it may be fairly said of it that a public man, 
from a far distant country, without official character, known 
to the world for his military glory and for services that 
saved a great republic from anarchy, was never more geni- 
ally, warmly, earnestly and enthusiastically made to feel 
that heroism, and, above all, heroism in the cause of lib- 
erty, has no country, but is equally at home in any part of 
the world, where there is a people with a soul to appreciate 
great services and the aspiration to be free. An event like 
General Grant's welcome in Ireland does not happen in the 
lives of many men. Our own welcome to Lafayette on 
his i^evisiting this country might be compared to it, but 
that we were under the obligation of a people in whose 
own cause that soldier fought; and the Irish welcome to^ 
General Grant was, therefore, even more generous, for there 
was not even the obligation of gratitude in it. As for the 
little fly spot put on this fine picture by the Corkoni- 
ans, why, it may be admitted that even an Irish city 
can produce some pitiful fellows, who want to become 
distinguished for their very meanness, if they have no 
worthier qualities. Some sharp- sighted democrats have 
seen in this visit to Ireland a strategic move on the Irish 
vote, should the General ever enter public life again. It 
is one of the misfortunes that dog public men in a country 
like ours, that every act of their lives has to be judged 
from the standpoint of those who contemplate it in the light 
of the ignoble hunt for votes. Some ground is given by 
what opjoonents of General Grant say to the opinion that 
they have stirred up this Corkonian trouble to head oil this 
hunt. If this be true, they must have been inspired under 
the influence of Grant's lucky star, for they have done him 
a service for which he could not have counted upon them, 
except under the general principle that a great part of every 
distinguished man's good fortune is due to blunders of his 
adversaries. 



CHAPTER XIV. 



GRANT IN INDIA. 

General Grant again visited London, where a grand 
dinner and reception was given him by our Minister to 
England, Mr. Welsh, which was largely attended by the 
elite of London, and American residents. At every station 
en route the greatest enthusiasm was manifested. The 
General left the next day for Paris, where he was the 
recipient of a grand dinner at the United States Legation 
on January 14, and a grand state dinner and reception at 
the Palais d' Elysee, the residence of President Mac- 
Mahon. 

Among the invited guests were General Grant and 
family, M. Waddirigton and wife, General Noyes and wife. 
Miss King, Miss Stevens, the members of the Chinese 
Embassy, the representatives of San Salvador, Buenos 
Ayres, Chili, Guatemala, Peru, Colombia and Uruguay, 
and many French generals and admirals. 

The General left Paris for Marseilles on the evening of 
January 21. The party accompanying him consisted of 
Mrs. Grant, Colonel Fred, Grant, ex-Secretary of the Navy 
A. E. Borie, Dr. Keating, and the Herald correspondent, 
who made the whole trip to India. General Badeau went 
as far as Marseilles. Generals Noyes and Fairchild, Secre- 
taries Hill, Ttgneau, and a large number of Americans, went 
to the station to see the party off. The train left at a quar- 
ter past seven o'clock, and arrived at Marseilles the follow- 
ing morning at eleven o'clock. Consul John B. Gould 
II 



l62 GENERAL U. S. GRANT's 

received them at the railway station. An ai'ternoon recep- 
tion was held at the Consulate, where General Grant met 
the leading- citizens of Marseilles. At lioon the pai'ty 
embarked on the French steamship Labourdonais for India, 
via Suez. The party embraced General and Mrs. Grant, 
ex-Secrctarj- Borie, Lieutenant-Colonel Frederick D. 
Grant, Dr. Keating, of Philadeli^hia, and the Herald cor- 
respondent. 

General Badeau, Consul Gould, J. B. Lippincott, of 
Philadelphia, John Munroe, the banker, and many other 
citizens, took leave of General and Mrs. Grant. The day 
was cold and the sky was filled with masses of gray cloud. 
The people of Marseilles evinced great interest in the 
General's departure. The ships in the harbor were dressed 
with fiags and streamers. General Grant and his party 
were in the best of health and spirits. 

The steamer moved out of the harbor shortly after 
twelve o'clock, and the land journey of General Grant in 
Europe closed amid the kindest manifestations of hi» 
countrymen at Marseilles and the French citizens of that 
great Mediterranean port. Marshal MacMahon had sent 
orders to the French admirals on foreign stations and to 
the governors of French colonies to treat ex- President 
Grant with all the honors due to the head of an independ- 
ent State. 

The first hours on the Mediterranean were on a high 
sea, but on-second the day the sea went down and charming 
yachting weather was enjoyed. On Friday, January 24, 
the steamer j^assed between Corsica and Sardina, having a 
a fine view of the dusky coasts of the former island. On 
the 25th, about noon, Ischia was sighted, and through the 
hazy atmosphere faint outlines of Vesuvius could be traced. 
Ischia is a beautiful island, dotted with smiling villages, 
and presenting an inviting apjjcarance. Passing the island, 
Capri was left to the right, and tlie vessel sailed into the 



TOUK AUOUND THE WORLD. 163 

beautiful Bay of Naples. The King's palace, the convent, 
the range of hills and the towering landscape remained un- 
changed, and at once recognized, though a year had nearly 
passed since the GeneraPs first visit. As soon as the anchor 
was dropped, Mr. Maynard, our Minister to Turkey, and 
Mr. Duncan, our Consul at Naples, came on board, and a 
delightful hour was passed. In the afternoon the Labour- 
donais steamed out to sea. On the mornmg of the 26th 
Stromboli was in sight. The General and party, owing 
to the stormy weather, were unable to see this famed 
island upon the previous voyage over this same route, but 
they were now sailing under the shadow of this ancient 
island. The volcano was throwing out ashes and smoke in 
a feeble, fretful manner. At the base of this volcano is a 
cluster of houses or a village. What reason any human 
being can give for remaining in Stromboli is beyond the 
knowledge of man. They are at the absolute mercy of 
the sea and the furnace, and far away from neighbors and 
refuge and rescue. It must be to gratify some poetic ia- 
■stinct, for Stromboli is poetic enough. With every turn of 
the screw our visitors were coming into the land of classic 
iind religious fame; these islands through which they were 
sailing are the islands visited by the wandering Ulysses. 

Reggio w^as passed, which in ancient days was called 
Rhegium. It was here that St. Paul landed, after Syracuse 
and Malta adventures, carrying with him the message of 
Christ, going from this spot to preach the gospel to all 
mankind. 

Leaving Etna to the left, they sailed through Messina 
Straits, the sea scarcely rippling, and were soon again in 
the open sea, the land fading from view. 

On the second morning Crete was passed, the snow 
upon her mountain ranges being plainly visible from the 
decks of the steamer. At noon Crete faded from their 
sight, and a last farewell to Europe w^as uttered — farewell 



164 GENERAL U. S. GRANt's 

to many a bright and happy hour spent on its shores, of 
which all that remains is the memory. 

On the evening of the 29th of January — it being the 
evening of the seventh day of their journey from Mar- 
seilles — they came to anchor outside of the harbor of 
Alexandria. There was some disappointment that the 
steamer did not enter that evening, but they were an hour or 
so late, and so they swung at anchor and found what conso- 
lation they could in the enrapturing glory of an Egyptian 
night. In the morning when the sun arose, the steamer 
picked her way into the harbor, and when our visitors 
came on deck they found themselves at anchor, with Alex- 
andria before them, her minarets looking almost gay in the 
fresh light of the morning sun. A boat came out about 
eight, bringing General C. P. Stone, Mr. Farman, our 
Consul-General, Mr. Salvago, our Consul in Alexandria, 
and Judge Morgan of the International Tribunal. Gen- 
eral Stone came with kind messages from the Khedive, and 
the hope that General Grant might be able to come to 
Cairo. But this was not possible, as he had to connect 
with the English steamer at Suez, and Suez was a long 
day's journey. vSo all that was left was that they should 
pull ashore as rapidly as possible and drive to the train. 
The Consul-General, with prudent foresight, had arranged 
that the train should wait for the General, and thus it came 
that the General's ride through Egypt, from Alexandria to 
Suez, was during the day, and not, as otherwise would 
have happened, during the long and weary night. 

It must have been pleasant to General Grant to land in a 
quiet, unostentatious fashion, without pomp and ceremony 
and pachas in waiting and troops in line, the blaze of trum- 
pets and the thunder of guns. The escape from a salute 
and a reception was a great comfort to the General, who 
seemed to enjoy having no one's hands to shake, to enjoy a 
snug corner in an ordinary railway car, talking with Gen- 



TOUR AROUND THE WORLD. 165 

€ral Stone and Mr. Boric and the Consul-General. The 
train waited half an hour for the General and party, 
and would have been detained longer but for the energy 
and genius shown by Hassan — the General's old friend 
Hasbau — who accompanied him on the Nile. Hassan, as 
the official guard of the Legation, wearing a sword, was 
an authority in Egypt, and he used his authority to the 
utmost in having the traps and parcels carried from the 
wharf to the train. The ride to Suez was without inci- 
dent, and Egypt, as seen from the car windows, was the 
same Egypt about which so much has been written. The 
fields were green, the air was clear and generous, the 
train people were civil. When Arabs gathered at the doors 
to call for backsheesh in the name of the prophet Hassan 
made himself, not without noise and effect, a beneficent 
influence. The General chatted with Stone about school 
times at West Point, about friends. Mr. Borie made vari- 
ous attempts to see the Pyramids from the cars, and talked 
over excursions that some of the party had made, and so 
much interested was he that the party offered to remain 
over one steamer to enable him to visit the Pyramids, and 
the Sphinx, and the Serapeum at Memphis. But General 
Grant was too late for India, and Mr. Borie would not con- 
sent to the sacrifice of valuable time on the General's part, 
and so they kept on to Suez. The hotel at Suez was formerly 
a harem of the Egyptian princes. From the balcony one can 
look out on the Red Sea, on the narrow line of water which 
has changed the commerce of the world — the Suez canal 
Suez is a small, clean town — clean from an Oriental stand- 
point. As the steamer that was to convey General Grant 
and party to India had not arrived, but was blocked in the 
canal, the visitors had a fine opportunity to visit the bazaars 
and town. 

About five in the afternoon the boat was sighted, and, as 
the sun went down. General Grant went on board the 



l66 GENERAL U. S. GUAIsT'S 

steamer, Mr. Farman and General Stone remaining until 
the last moment, to say farewell. At eight o'clock on the 
evening of January 30, the steamer Venetia, of the Penin- 
sular and Oriental Steamship Company's line, moved out 
into the Red Sea, and the last words of farewell were 
spoken. Owing to heavy head winds, the Venetia did not 
make much headway, losing nearly two days. At the 
mouth of the Red Sea is Aden, a town with a population 
of over twenty thousand inhabitants. It juts into the mouth 
of the Red Sea, commanding the entrance. It was taken 
by the British in 1S3S, as a part of the English policy of 
dotting the world with guns and garrisons. There is a 
garrison, and the forts are manned with heavy guns. The 
government is martial law, tempered with bribery. The 
British pay the native chiefs annual tribute money to behave 
themselves. Aden is a sort of gateway to the Red Sea 
and the Indian Ocean, and the regulations of the British 
government in reference to commerce are stringent, and 
would scarcely be tolerated on the coasts of a stronger 
power than Arabia. Every vessel carrying more than a 
certain number of passengers must stop at Aden. The 
nominal reason is to obtain a clean bill of health. The real 
reason is, that it enables the government to keep a close 
scrutiny'upon all that is doing in the Indian waters. It 
also adds to the revenues of Aden, for every vessel that 
stops sends money on shore, and thus the fort, while secui"- 
ing a most important position, while commanding the Red 
Sea and making it almost a British lake, supports itself. 
It is observed in studying the growth of the British Em- 
pire, that the self-supporting principle is always encour- 
aged. The British give good government and make the 
governed ones pay the bills, with a little over for home 
revenues when possil^le. Remaining at Aden only long 
enough to coal, on tbe morning of February 6 the steamer 
headed for Bombay. The trip was a delightful one, the 



TOUR AROUND THE WORLD. l6j 

steamer scarcely rolling. On the morning of February 
13 Bombay was reached. 

The departure from Europe had been so sudden that 
General Grant had no idea that even our Consul at Bom- 
bay knew of his coming. All arrangements were made to 
go to a hotel, and from thence make their journey; but the 
Venetia had scarcely entered the harbor before evidences 
were seen that the General was expected. Ships in the 
harbor were dressed with flags, and at the wharf was a 
large crowd — soldiers, natives, Europeans. As the En- 
glish flag-ship was passed, a boat caine alongside with an 
officer representing Admiral Corbett, welcoming the Gen- 
eral to India. In a few minutes came another boat bearing 
Captain Frith, the military aid to Sir Richard Temple, 
Governor of the Presidency of Bombay. Captain Frith 
bore a letter from the Governor welcoming the General 
to Bombay, and offering him the use of the Government 
House at Malabar Point. Captain Frith expressed the 
regret of Sir Richard that he could not be in Bombay to 
meet General Grant, but duties connected with the Afghan 
war kept him in Sind. The Consul, Mr. Farnham, also 
came with a delegation of American residents, and wel- 
comed the General and party. 

At nine o'clock in the morning the last farewells were 
spoken. They took leave of the many kind and pleasant 
friends they had made on the Venetia, and went on board 
the government yacht. The landing was at the Apollo 
Bunder — the spot where the Prince of Wales landed. As 
they drew near the shore there was an immense crowd 
lining the wharf, and a company of Bombay volunteers in 
line. As the General ascended the steps he was met by 
Brigadier-General Aitcheson, commanding the forces; Sir 
Francis Souter, Commissioner of Police; Mr. Grant, the 
Municipal Commissioner, and Colonel Sexton, command- 
ing the Bombay Volunteers, all of whom gave him a 



l68 GENERAL U. S. GRANT'S 

hearty welcome to India. The volunteers presented arms, 
the band played our national air, and the General, amid 
loud cheers from the Europeans present, walked slowly 
Tvith uncovered head to the state carriage. Accompanied 
by Captain Frith, who represented the Governor, and at- 
tended by an escort of native cavalry, the General and party 
made off to Malabar Point. 

The General's home in Bombay was at the Govern- 
ment House, on Malabar Point, in the suburbs of the city. 
Malabar Point was in other days a holy place of the Hin- 
doos. Here was a temple, and it was also.believed that if 
those who sinned made a pilgrimage to the rocks there 
would be expiation or regeneration of the soul. The Por- 
tuguese who came to India were breakers of images, who 
believed that the religion of Christ was best served by the 
destruction of the Pagan temples. Among the temples 
which were subjected to their pious zeal was one on Mala- 
bar Point. There are only th.e ruins remaining, and masses 
of rock, bearing curious inscriptions, lie on the hillside. 
Malabar Point is an edge of the island of Bombay jutting 
out into the Indian Ocean. Where the bluff overlooks the 
waters it is one hundred feet high. This remnant of the 
rock has been rescued from the sea and storm and decorated 
with trees and shrubbery, the mango and the palm. Over- 
looking the sea is a battery with five large guns, shining 
and black, looking out upon the ocean and keeping watch 
over the Empire of England. It is difficult to describe a 
residence like Government House on Malabar Point. Ar- 
chitecture is simply a battle with the sun. The house is a 
group of houses. As you drive in the grounds through 
stone gates that remind you of the porter's lodges at some 
stately English mansions, you pass through an avenue of 
mango trees, past beds of flowers throwing out their deli- 
cate fragrance on the warm morning air. You come to a 
onc-sforied house surrounded with spacious verandas. 



TOUR AROUND THE WORLD. 169 

There is a wide state entrance covered with red cloth. A 
guard is at the foot, a native guard wearing the English 
scarlet, on his shoulders the number indicating the regi- 
ment. You pass up the stairs, a line of servants on either 
side. The servants are all Mohammedans; they wear long 
scarlet gowns, with white turbans; on the breast is a belt 
with an imperial crown for an escutcheon. They salute 
you with the grave, submissive grace of the East, touching 
the forehead and bending low the head, in token of wel- 
come and duty. You enter a hall and pass between two 
rooms — large, high, decorated in blue and white, and look 
out upon the gardens below, the sea beyond and the towers 
of Bombay. One of these rooms is the state dining-room, 
large enough to dine fifty people. The other is the state 
drawing-room. This house is only used for ceremonies, 
for meals and receptions. 

General Grant was the guest of the Governor, and the 
honors of his house were done by Captains Frith and Rad- 
cliff of the army. Meals were taken in the state dining- 
room. Mrs. Grant enjoyed every moment of her visit. 

The attentions paid to the General and his party by the 
people of Bombay were so marked and continuous that 
most of their time was taken up in receiving and acknowl- 
ing them. What most interested them, coming fresh from 
Europe, was the entire novelty of the scene, the way of 
living, the strange manners and customs. All impressions 
of India, gathered from the scattered reading of busy days 
at home, are vague. Somehow one associates India with 
ideas of pageanty. The history of the country has been 
written in such glowing colors — one who has read Oriental 
poems, and fallen under the captivating rhetoric of Mac- 
aulay, looks for nature in a luxuriant form, for splendor 
and ornament, for bazaars laden with gems and gold, for 
crowded highways, with elephants slowly plodding their 
way along. 



lyo GENERAL U. S. GRANT's 

Therefore, when India is seen — India as seen in this her 
greatest city — one is surprised to find it all so hard and baked 
and brown. The greenness of field and hillside is missed. 
A people who have nothing in common with any race 
known. There are so many types, curious and varying, 
that impressions are bewildering and indefinite. In time, 
as the country is known and understood, it will be seen that 
this civilization has lines of harmony like that left behind;^ 
that there are reasons for all the odd things, just as there 
are reasons for many odd things in America; and that 
Indian civilization even now — when its glory has departed, 
its mightiest States are mere appendages of the British 
Empire, when day after day it bends and crumbles under 
the stern hand and cold brain of the Saxon — is rich in the 
lessons and qualities which have for ages excited the am- 
bition and wonder of the world. 

On Friday night, General Grant visited the ball of the 
Volunteer Corps, and was received by Colonel Sexton. 
The ballroom was profusely decorated with flags — the 
American flag predominating. On Saturday, at two 
o'clock, he visited Dossabhoy Merwanjee, a Parsee mer- 
chant. The reception was most cordial, the ladies of the 
family decorating the General and party with wreaths of 
jasmine flowers. In the afternoon he drove to the By- 
culla Club, lunched, and looked at the races. In the eve- 
ning there was a state dinner at the Government House, 
with forty-eight guests. The government band played 
during dinner. The member of council, Hon. James 
Gibbs, who represents the Governor, was in the chair. At 
the close of the dinner, he proposed the health of the Gen- 
eral, who arose, amid loud cheering, and said that he was 
now carrying out a wish he had long entertained, of visit- 
ing India and the countries of the ancient world. His 
reception in Bombay had been most gratifying. The cor- 
diality of the people, the princely hospitality of the Gov- 



TOUR AROUND THE WORLD. 171 

ernor, the kindness of the members of the household, all 
combined to make him feel the sincerity of the welcome. 
It was only a continuance of the friendliness he had met 
in Europe, and which was especially grateful to him 
because it indicated a friendly feeling toward his own coun- 
try. In this spirit he accepted it, for he knew of nothing 
that would go further toward insuring joeace to all nations, 
and with peace the blessings of civilization, than a perfect 
understanding between Englishmen and Americans, the 
great English-speaking nations of the world. The Gen- 
eral said he hoped he might see his hosts in America. He 
would be most happy to meet them, and return the hospi- 
tality he had received. He was sorry he could not see Sir 
Richard Temple, the Governor of Bombay, of whom he 
had heard a great deal and whom he was anxious to meet. 
But he would ask them to join with him in drinking the 
health of the Governor. This sentiment was drank with 
all the honors. The dinner was finel}' served, and after 
dinner the General and guests strolled about on the veranda, 
smoking or chatting, looking out on the calm and murmur- 
ing ocean that rolled at their feet, and the lights of the city 
beyond. There was a luncheon with Sir Michael R. Wes- 
tropp. Chief Justice of Bombay. 

Subsequently General Grant visited the English man- 
of-war Euryolus, the flagship of the English squadron in 
India. Admiral Corbett received the General, and on his 
leaving the vessel fired twenty-one guns. There was a 
visit to the Elephanta caves, one of the sights in India. 
The visitors left the wharf, and steamed across the bay in 
a small launch belonging to the government. The after- 
noon was beautiful, the islands in the bay breaking up the 
horizon into various forms of beauty, that resembled the 
islands of the Mediterranean. Elephanta caves belong to 
Hindoo theology. Here in the rocks the Brahmins built 
their temples, and now on the holy days the people come 



172 GENERAL U. S. GRANT S 

and worship their gods according to the ritual of their 
ancestors. What the temple might have been in its best 
days cannot be imagined from the ruins. 

Having reached the temples, they strolled about, study- 
ing the figures, noting the columns and the curious archi- 
tecture, full, rude, massive, unlike any forms of architectural 
art familiar to Americans. The main temple is one hun- 
dred and twenty-five feet long, and the same in width. 
The idols are hewn out of the rock. The faces of some 
are comely, and there is a European expression in the fea- 
tures that startles you. The type is a higheFone than 
those seen in Egypt. One of the idols, supposed to be the 
Hindoo Trinity — Brahmin, Vishnu and Siva. There is a 
figure of a woman — the wife of Siva — and it is seen in 
these pagan faiths that woman, who holds so sad a place 
in their domestic economy, was worshiped as fervently as 
some of us worship the Virgin. It is the tribute which 
even the heathen pays, as if by instinct, to the supreme 
blessing of maternity. But when the Portuguese came, 
with the sword and the cross, little mercy was shown to 
the homes of the pagan gods. It is believed that these tem- 
ples were cut out of the rocks in the tenth century, and 
that for eight hundred years these stony emblems were 
worshiped. 

On Monday the General was entertained in state at the 
Government House at Malabar Point. Hon. James Gibbs, 
the member of the council who acted as Governor in the 
aV)sence of Sir Richard Temple, presided, and at the close 
of the dinner the company drank the health of the General. 
In response the General referred to the kindness he had 
received in India, which was only renewing the kindness 
shown him all over Europe, and which he accepted as an 
evidence of the good will which really existed between 
Englishmen and Americans, and which was to his mind 
the best assurance of peace for all nations. After the din- 



TOUR AROUND THE WORLD. . 1 73 

ner the General received a large number of the native 
merchants and gentlemen of Bombay. It may seem odd 
to American eyes that merchants and gentlemen should be 
asked to come in at the end of a feast, and not to take 
part. But this exclusion is their own wish. Many of 
these mei'chants and gentlemen belong to castes who look 
on the food of the Europeans as unclean, who believe in 
the sacredness of life and will not eat animal food, and 
who could not sit at the table with the General without 
losing caste. These men will meet you in business, will 
serve you in various ways, but their religion prevents 
their sharing your table. So the invitation to the natives 
to meet the General was fixed at an hour when dinner was 
over. 

They came In groups — Hindoos, Arabs, Parsees, native 
officers — in uniforms, in quaint flowing costumes. The 
General stood at the head of the hallway, with Mr. Gibbs 
and Major Rivet-Carnac, the Governor's military secre- 
tary. As each native advanced, he was presented to the 
General with some word of history or compliment from 
Mr. Gibbs. " This is So-and-So, an eminent Brahmin 
scholar, who stands high among our barristers ;" or, " this 
is So-and-So, a Parsee merchant, who has done a great 
deal of good to Bombay, and has been knighted for his 
services by the Queen;" or, "this is the oldest Arab 
merchant;" or, "this is a gallant officer of our native 
cavalry;" or, "this is the leading diamond merchant 
in Bombay, a Hindoo gentleman, one of the richest 
in India." As each of them advanced, it was with folded 
hands, as in prayer, or saluting by touching the breast 
and brow in the submissive, graceful, bending way. 
Here were men of many races — the Parsee, from Persia, 
the Arab, from Cairo, whose ancestors may have ridden 
with Omar; the Brahmin of a holy caste, in whose veins 
runs the stainless blood of Indian nobility, descendant of 



174 GENERAL U. S. GRANT's 

men who were priests and rulers ages before England had 
risen from her clouds of barbarism. Between these races 
there is no love. If they do not like England, they hate 
one another. Religious differences, tradition, memories of 
war and conquest, the unaccountable antipathies of race 
which have not been eliminated from their civilization — 
all generate a fierce animosity which would break into 
flames once the restraining hand were lifted. What welds 
them together is the power of England; and as you look 
at this picturesque group — their heads, full eyes, their fine 
Asiatic type of face, clear and well cut — here assembled 
peacefully, you see the extent of the empire to which 
they all owe allegiance, and admire the genius and courage 
which has brought them to submit to a rule which, what'" 
ever it may have been in tlie past, grows more and more 
beneficent. 

The General left Bomba}- on Tuesday, February iS, 
having driven into town and made some farewell calls. 
At five he left Government House in a state carriage, 
accompanied by Major Carnac, who represented Governor 
Temple, and escorted by a squadron of cavalry. On arriv- 
ing at the station there was a guard of honor of native 
infantry drawn up, which presented arms and lowered 
colors. All the leading men of the Bombay Government 
— Parsee and native merchants; our Consul, Mr. Farnham, 
whose kindness was untiring; Mr. Gibbs, and all the mem- 
bers of the government household, were present. In a 
few minutes the signal for leaving was made, and, the 
General thanking his good friends of Malabar Point, the 
train pushed off amid cheers and the salutes of the mili- 
tary. 

On the 2oth of February the party arrived at Tatul- 
pur, and visited the Marble Rocks, on the Norbudda 
River, riding there on elephants provided by the govern- 
ment. 



TOUR AltOUN'D THE WORLD. I75 

The General arrived at Allahabad on the 22d of Feb- 
ruary, where he was received by Sir George Cowpcr, 
Lieutenant-Governor of the Northwest Provinces, and 
was escorted to the Government House. 

The General arrived at Agra on the 23d, and on the 
following day he visited Jeypore, where he was received 
"by the Maharajah with his ministers, and the English 
Resident, Dr. Hendley. As the General descended, the 
Maharajah, who wore the ribbon and star of the Order of 
India, advanced and shook hands, welcoming him to his 
<lominions. The Maharajah is a small, rather fragile per- 
son, with a serious, almost a painful, expression of counten- 
ance, but an intelligent, keen face. He looked like a man of 
sixty. His movements were slow, impassive — the move- 
ments of old age. This may be a mannerism, nowever, 
for on studying his f;ice you could see that there is some 
youth in it. On his brow were the crimson emblems of 
his caste — the warrior caste of Rajpootana. His Higliness 
does not speak English, although he understands it, and 
our talk was through an inteipreter. After the exchange 
of courtesies and a few moments' conversation, the General 
drove off to the English Residency, accompanied by a com- 
pany of Jeypore cavalry. The Residency is some distance 
from the station. It is a fine, large mansion, surrounded 
by a park and garden. 

It was arranged that the General should visit Amber, 
the ancient capital of Jeypore, one of the most curious 
sights in India. Amber was the capital until the close of 
■the seventeenth century. It was one of the freaks of the 
princes who once reigned in India, that when they tired of 
a capital or a palace, they wandered off and built a new 
one, leaving the other to run to waste. The ruins of India 
are as a general thing the abandoned palaces and temples 
•of kings who grew weary of their toy and craved another. 
This is why Amber is now an abandoned town and Jeypore 



176 GENERAL U. S. GRANt's 

the capital. If the Maharajah were to tire of Jeypore and 
return to Amber, the town would accompany him, for 
without the Court the town would die. Traveling in India 
must be done very early in the morning, and, although the 
visitors had had a severe day's journey, they left for Amber 
at seven in the morning. A squadron of the Maharajah's 
cavalry accompanied them. They are fine horsemen, and 
wear quilted uniforms of printed cotton. The drive 
through Jeypore was interesting, from the fact that they 
were now in a native city, under native rule. Heretofore 
the India they had seen was India under Englishmen; but 
Jeypore is sovereign, with power of life and death over its. 
own subjects. The city is purely Oriental, and is most 
pictm-esque and striking. There are two or three broad 
streets, and one or two squares, that would do no discredit 
to Paris. The architecture is Oriental, and, as all the houses, 
are j^ainted after the same pattern, in rose color, it gives, 
you the impression that it is all the same building. The 
streets had been swept for the coming of the visitors, and 
men, carrymg goatskins of water, were sprinkling them. 
Soldiers were stationed at various points to salute, and 
sometimes the salute was accompanied with a musical bang- 
ing on various instruments of the national air. The best 
that India can do for a distinguished American, is " God 
Save the Queen." 

There are gas lamps in Jeypore; this is a tremendous 
advance in civilization. One of the first things General 
Grant heard in India, was that in Jeypore lived a great 
prince, a most enlightened prince, quite English in his ideas^ 
who had gas lamps in his streets. He had a theatre almost 
ready for occupancy; there was a troupe of Parsee players, 
in town, who had come all the way from Bombay, and 
were waiting to open it. The Maharajah was sorry he 
could not show the General a play. 

To go to Amber, General Grant and party must ride 



TOUR AROUND THE WORLD. I ^^ 

elephants, for after a few miles the hills come, and the roads 
are broken, and carriages are of no value. Camels or horses 
could be used, but the Maharajah had sent elephants, and 
they were waiting for them under a grove of mango trees, 
drawn up by the side of the road, as if to salute. The 
principal elephant wore a scarlet cloth, as a special honor 
to the General. The elephant means authority in India, 
and, when you wish to do your guest the highest honor, you 
mount him on an elephant. The Maharajah also sent sedan 
chairs for those who preferred an easier and swifter convey- 
ance. 

Mrs. Grant chose the sedan chair, and was switched off 
at a rapid pace up the ascending road by four Hindoo 
bearers. The pace at which these chairs is carried is a 
short, measured quickstep, so that there is no uneasiness to 
the rider. The rest mounted the elephants. Elephant- 
riding is a curious and not an unpleasant experience. The 
animal is under j^erfcct control, and very often, especially 
in the case of such a man as the ruler of Jeypore, has been 
for generations in the same family. The elephant is under 
the care of a driver, called a mahout. The mahout sits on 
the neck, or more properly the head, of the elephant, and 
guides him with a stick or sharp iron prong, with which he 
strikes the animal on the top of the head. Between the 
elephant and mahout there are relations of affection. The 
mahout lives with the elephant, gives him his food, and 
each animal has its own keeper. The huge creature be- 
comes in time as docile as a kitten, and will obey any order 
of the mahout. The elephant reaches a great age. It is 
not long since there died at Calcutta the elephant which 
carried Warren Hastings when Governor General of India, 
a century ago. There are two methods of riding elephants. 
One is in a box like the four seats of a carriage, the other 
on a square quilted seat, your feet hanging over the sides, 
something like an Irish jaunting car. The first plan is 

•-- 12 



1 78 GENERAL U. S. GRANT's 

good for hunting, but for comfort the second is the better. 
At a signal from the mahout the elephant slowly kneels. 
When the elephant rises, which he does two legs at a time, 
deliberately, the rider must hold on to the rail of the seat. 
Once on his feet, he swings along at a slow, wabbling pace. 
The motion is an easy one, like that of a boat in a light 
sea. In time, if going long distances, it becomes very 
tiresome. 

Arrived at Amb'^", the General found Mrs. Grant with 
her couriers, havir.i; arrived some time before, and had 
mounted to a window high up in the palace, and was 
waving her handkerchief. The visitors had reached the 
temple while worship was in progresso Dr. Hendley 
informed the General that he was in time to take part 
in the services and to see tiie priest offer up a kid. 
Every day in the year in this temple a kid is offered 
up as a propitiation for the sins of the Maharajah. 

The temple was little more than a room in the palace — a 
private chapel. At one end was a platform raised a few inch 
es from the ground and coverea over. On this platform were 
the images of the gods — of the special God. Whatever 
the god, the worship was in full progress, and there was 
the kid ready for sacrifice. Entering the -enclosure, the 
visitors stood with uncovered heads; only some half a dozen 
worshipers were crouching on the ground. One of the 
attendants held the kid, while the priest was crouching over 
it, reading from the sacred books, and in a half humming, 
half whining chant blessing the sacrifice, and as he said 
each prayer putting some grain or spice or oil on its head. 
The poor animal licked the cruml:)s as they fell about it, 
quite unconscious of its holy fate. Another attendant took 
a sword and held it before the priest. lie read some pray- 
ers f)ver the sword and consecrated it. Then the kid was 
carried to the corner, where there was a small heap of sand 
or ashes and a gutter to carry away the blood. The priest 



TOUR AKOUN'D THE WORLD. l>jg 

continued his prayers, the kid's head was suddenly drawn 
down and with one blow severed from the body. The 
virtue of the sacrifice consists in the head falling at the first 
blow, and so expert do the priests become that at some of 
the great sacrifices, where buffalo are offered up in expiation 
of the princely sins, they will take off the buffalo's head 
with one stroke of the sword. The kid, having performed 
the office of expiation, becomes useful for the priestly 
dinner. 

Of the palace of Amber the most one can say is that it 
is curious and interesting as the home of an Indian King in 
the days when India was ruled by her Kings, and a Hastings 
and a Clive had not come to rend and destroy. The 
Maharajah has not quite abandoned it. He comes some- 
times to the great feasts of the faith, and a few apartments 
are kept for him. His rooms were ornamented with look- 
ing-glass decorations, with carved marble which the artisan 
had fashioned into tracery so delicate that it looked like 
lacework. What strikes one in this Oriental decoration i« 
its tendency to light, bright, lacelike gossamer work, 
showing infinite pains and patience in the doing, but without 
any special value as a real work of art. The general effect of 
these decorations is agreeable, but all is done for effect. 
There is no such honest, serious work as you see in the 
Gothic cathedrals, or even in the Alhambra. One is the 
expression of a fiicile, sprightly race, fond of the sunshine, 
delighting to repeat the caprice of nature in the curious and 
quaint; the other has a deep, earnest purpose. This is an 
imagination which sees its gods in every form — in stones 
and trees and beasts and creeping things, in the stars above, 
in the snake wriggling through the hedges — the other sees 
only one God, even the Lord God Jehovah, who made the 
heavens and the earth and will come to judge the world at 
the last day. As you wander through the courtyards and 
chambers of Amber, the fancy is amused by the charac- 



l8o GENERAL U. S. GRANT'S 

ter of all that surrounds you. There is no luxury. All 
these Kings wanted was air and sunshine. They slept on 
the floor. The chambers of their wives were little more 
than cells built in stone. Here are the walls that surround- 
ed their section of the palace. There are no windows 
looking into the outer world, only a thick stone wall 
pierced with holes slanting upward, so that if a curious 
spouse looked out she would see nothing lower than the 
stars. Amber is an immense palace, and could quite ac- 
commodate a rajah with a court of a thousand attendants. 

There were some beautiful views from the terrace. The 
General would like to have remained, but the elephants had 
been down to the water to lap themselves about, and were 
now returning refreshed to bear us back to Jeypore. The 
visitors had only given themselves a day for the town, and 
had to return the call of the Prince, which is a serious 
task in Eastern etiquette. 

Mr. Borie was much exhausted by his ride and the heat 
of the sun, and was prevailed upon to make the descent in 
a chair, as Airs. Grant had done. Returning to Jeypore 
the same day, our party were very tired, and early sought 
rest. 

The following day, at Jeypore, the General visited the 
school of arts and industry, in which he was greatly' inter- 
ested, one of his special subjects of inquiry being the indus- 
trial customs and resources of the country. This school is 
one of the Prince's favorite schemes, and the scholars showed 
aptness in their work. Jeypore excels in the manufacture 
of enameled jewelry; some of the specimens seen were 
exceedingly beautiful and costly. The Mint was visited, 
and here the workmen were seen beating the coin and 
stamping it. 

At the collection of tigers, a half dozen brutes were 
caged, each of whom had a history. There were man-eaters; 
one enormous creature had killed twenty-five men before 



TOUR AROUND THE WORLD. l8l 

he was captured. Having passed the day in seeing the 
sights, the party returned to the Residency, and found a 
group of servants, from the palace, on the veranda, each 
carrying a tray laden with sweetmeats and nuts, oranges 
and fruit. This was an offering from the Prince, and it 
was necessary that the General should touch some of the 
fruit and taste it, and say how much he was indebted to 
His Highness for the remembrance; then the servants re- 
turned to the palace. 

The Maharajah sent word that he would receive Gen- 
eral Grant at five. The Maharajah is a pious prince, a de- 
votee, and almost an ascetic. He gives seven hours a day 
to devotions. He partakes only of one meal. When he is 
through with his prayers he plays billiards. He is the hus- 
band of ten wives. His tenth wife was married to him a 
few weeks ago. The court gossip is that he did not want 
another wife, that nine were enough ; but in polygamous 
countries marriages are made to please families, to consoli- 
date alliances, to win friendships, very often to give a home 
to the widows or sisters of friends. The Maharajah was 
under some duress of this kind, and his bride was brought 
home, and is now with her sister brides behind the stone 
walls, killing time as she best can, while her lord prays and 
plays billiards. These wives live in cloistered seclusion. 
They are guarded by eunuchs, and even when ill are not 
allowed to look into the face of a physician, but put their 
hands through a screen. It was said in Jeypore that no face 
of a Rajput Princess was ever seen by a European. 

These prejudices are respected and protected by the Im- 
perial Government, which respects and protects every cus- 
tom in India so long as the States behave themselves and 
pay tribute. In their seclusion the princesses adorn them- 
selves, see the Nautch girls dance, and read romances. 
They are not much troubled by the Maharajah. That 
great prince, I hear, is tired of everything but his devotions 



l82 GENERAL U. S. GRANT's 

and his billiards. He has no children, and is not supposed 
to have hopes of an heir. He will, as is the custom in these 
high families, adopt some prince of an auxiliary branch. 

The government of the kingdom is in the hands of a 
council, among w^hom are the Prime Minister and the prin- 
cipal brahmin. 

General Grant drove to the palace at four o'clock, and 
at once inspected the stables. There were some fine horses, 
and exhibitions of horsemanship which astonished even the 
General. He was shown the astronomical buildings of Jai 
Singh n., which were on a large scale and accurately graded. 
He climbed to the top of the palace, and had a fine view of 
[eypore. The palace itself embraces one-sixth of the city, 
and there are ten thousand people within its walls — beg- 
gars, soldiers, priests, politicians, all manner of human 

beings who live on the royal bounty. The town looked 

picturesque and cool in the shadows of the descending sun. 

At five precisely we entered the courtyard leading 
to the reception hall. The Maharajah came slowly down 
the steps, with a serious, preoccupied air, not as an old man, 
but as one who was too weary with a day's labors to make 
any effort, and shook hands with the General and Mrs. 
Grant. He accompanied the General to a scat of honor 
and sat down at his side. They all arranged themselves 
in the chairs. On the side of the General sat the mem- 
bers of his party; on the side of the Maharajah the mem- 
bers of his Cabinet. Dr. Hendlcy acted as interpretei". 
The Prince said Jeyporc was honored in seeing the face 
of the great American ruler, whose fame had reached 
Hindostan. The General said he had enjoyed his visit, 
that he was pleased and surprised with the prosperity of 
the people, and he should have felt he had lost a great 
deal if he had come to India and not seen Jeypore. The 
Maharajah expressed regret that the General made so 
short a stay. The General answered that he came to 



TOUK AROUND TllK WOK1.D. 183 

India late, and was rather pressed for time from thf fact 
that he wished to see the Viceroy before he left Calcutta, 
and to that end had promised to be in Calcutta on 
March lo. 

His Highness then made a gesture, and a troop of 
dancing girls came into the court-yard. One of the 
features of a visit to Jeypore is what is called the Nautch. 
The Nautch is a sacred affair, danced by Hindoo girls of 
a low caste in the presence of the idols in the palace 
temple. A group of girls came trooping in, under the 
leadership of an old fellow with a long beard and a hard 
expression of face, who might have been the original of 
Dickens' Fagin. The girls wore heavy garments em- 
broidered, the skirts composed of many folds, covered 
with gold braid. They had ornaments on their heads and 
jewels in the side of the nose. They had plain faces, and 
carried out the theory of caste, if there be anything in 
such a theory, in the contrast between their features and the 
delicate, sharply-cut lines of the higher class Brahmins 
and the other castes who surrounded the Prince. The 
girls formed in two lines, a third line was composed of 
four musicians, who performed a low, growling kind of 
music on unearthly instruments. The dance had no value 
in it, either as an expression of harmony, grace or motion. 

The Nautch dance is meaningless. It is not even im- 
proper. It is attended by no excitement, no manifesta- 
tions of religious feeling. A group of course, ill-formed 
women stood in the lines, walked and twisted about, 
lireaking now and then into a chorus, which added to the 
din of the instruments. This was the famous Nautch 
dance, which they were to see in Jeypore with amazement, 
and to remember as one of the sights of India. Either as 
an amusement or a religious ceremony it had no value. 

The General did not appreciate the dance, though he 
remained during its performance. Dr. Hendley, evidently 



184 GENERAL U. S. GRANT'S 

thinkmg that the dance had served every useful purpose, 
said a vv^ord to the Prince, who made a sign, the dance 
stopped, the girls vanished, and the whole party retired to 
the billiard room. 

The Maharajah plays billiards when he is not at prayers. 
He was anxious to have a game with the General. The 
General played in an indiscriminate, promiscuous manner, 
and made some wonderful shots in the way of missing balls 
he intended to strike. Mr. Borie, whose interest in the 
General's fortunes extends to billiards, began to deplore 
those eccentric experiments, when the General said he had 
not played billiards for thirty years. The Maharajah tried 
to lose the game, and said to one of his attendants that he 
was anxious to show the General that delicate mark of hos- 
pitality. The game ended. His Highness winning. 

Then they strolled into the gardens, and looked at the 
palace towers, which the Prince took pleasure in showing 
to the General, and which looked airy and beautiful in the 
rosy shadows of the descending sun. There were beds of 
flowers and trees, and the coming night, which comes so 
swiftly in these latitudes, brought a cooling breeze. Then 
His Highness gave each a photograph of his royal person, 
consecrated with his i-oyal autograph, which he wrote on 
the top of a marble railing. Then they strolled toward the 
grand hall of ceremony to take leave. Taking leave is a 
solemn act in India. The party entered the spacious hall, 
w^here the Prince received the Prince of Wales. Night 
had come so rapidly, that servants came in all directions 
carrying candles and torches that lit up the gaudy and glit- 
tering hall. An attendant carried a tray bearing wreaths 
of the rose and jasmine. The Maharajah, taking two of 
these wreaths, put them on the neck of the General. He 
did the same to Mrs. Grant, and all the members of the 
party. Then, taking a string of gold and silken cord, he 
2:)laccd that on Mrs. Grant as a special honor. The Gen- 



TOUK AROUND THE WORLD. 185 

cral, who was instructed by tlie English Resident, took 
four wreaths and put them on the neck of the Maharajah, 
who pressed his hands and bowed his thanks. Another 
servant came, bearing a small cup of gold and gems con- 
taining ottar of roses. The Maharajah, putting some of 
the perfume on his fingers, transferred it to Mrs. Grant's 
handkerchief. With another portion he passed his hands 
along the General's breast and shoulders. This was done to 
■each of the party. The General then taking the perfume, 
passed his hands over the Maharajah's shoulders, and so 
•concluding the ceremony, which, in all royal interviews in 
the East, is supposed to mean a lasting friendship. Then 
the Prince, taking General Grant's hand in his own, led 
him from the hall, across the garden and to the gateway of 
his palace, holding his hand all the time. The carriages 
were waiting, and the Prince took his leave saying how 
much he was honored by the General's visit. The cavalry 
escort formed in line, the guard presented arms, and the 
visitors drove at full gallop to their home. And so ended 
one of the most interesting and eventful days in the Gen- 
eral's visit to India, 



CHAPTER XV. 



STILL IN INDIA. 

General Grant and party visited the Maharajah of ^urt- 
poor, a young prince about thirty years of age. His state 
is small — its area 1,974 miles, with a population of 743,710, 
and a revenue of $15,000,000. The day was hot, and the 
ride had been through a low country, the scenery not very 
attractive at the best, but now brown and arid under a 
steaming sun. Arrived at the station, all Burtpoor seemed 
to be awaiting the General's appearance, with the Maha- 
rajah at the head. The prince was accompanied by the 
British otficers attached to his court, and, advancing, shook 
hands with the General and welcomed him to his capital. 
He wore a blazing uniform, covered with jewels. He had 
a firm, stern face, with strong features, a good frame, and 
unlike his brother of Jeypore, who gives his days to prayers 
and his evenings to billiards; and, although he has the Star 
of India, has long since seen the vanity of human glory, 
and hates power, is a soldier and a sj^ortsman, and is called 
a firm and energetic ruler. From the station the party 
drove to the joalace, through a town whose dismantled walls 
speak of English valor and English shame, past bazaars, 
where people seemed to sell nothing, only to broil in the 
sunshine, and under a high archway into a courtyard, and 
thence to the palace. There was nothing special about the 
palace, except that it was very large and very uncomfortable. 
The prince docs not live in this palace, but in one more 
suited to Oriental tastes. It was here where he received 



TO UU AKOUND THK WORLD. 187 

the Prince of Wales on the occasion of his visit in 1876- 
There was a breakfast prepared, which the prince left his 
guests to enjoy in company with their English friends. In 
this country the hospitality of the highest princes never 
goes so far as to ask you to eat. The rules of caste are so 
marked that the partaking of food with one of another 
caste, and especially of another race, would be defilements 
The host at the close of the breakfast returned in state, and 
there was the ceremony of altar and pan, and cordial inter- 
changes of good feeling between the Maharajah and the 
General. 

The General and party visited the famous ruins of 
Futtehpoor Sikva. In the days of the great Moham- 
medan rulers there was none so great as Akbar. He 
founded the city and built the palace. The night had fallen 
before the visitors arrived at their destination, so tha,t they 
were compelled to remain over night in the ruins. Mr. 
Lawrence, the British Collector at Agra, had sent forward 
bed and bedding, and all that was necessary to make the 
guests comfortable. Aftejf a night's rest, the following 
morning an early start was made to view the ruins. To 
see all of this stupendous ruin would include a ride around 
a circumference of seven miles. The ruins were well worth 
a study. The General examined first a courtyard, or quad- 
rangle, four hundred and thirty-three feet by three hundred 
and sixty-six feet. On one side of this is the mosque, which 
is a noble building, suffering, however, from the over- 
shadowing grandeur of the principal gateway, the finest, it 
is said, in India, looming up out of the ruins with stately 
and graceful splendor, but dwarfing the other monuments 
and ruins. This was meant as an arch of triumph to the 
glory of the Emperor, "King of Kings," "Heaven of the 
Court," and " Shadow of God." There are many of these 
inscriptions in Arabic, a translation of which is found in 
Mr. Keene's handbook. The most suggestive is this: 



l88 GENERAI. U. S. GRANt's 

" Know that the world is a glass, where the favor has come 
and gone. Take as thine own nothing more than what 
thou lookest upon." The prevailing aspect of the archi- 
tecture was Moslem, with traces of Hindoo taste and deco- 
ration. The mosque, the tombs and the gateway are all 
well preserved. At one of the mosques were a number of 
natives in prayer, who interrupted their devotions long 
enough to show General Grant the delicate tracing on the 
walls and beg a rupee. One of the pleasures of wandering 
among these stupendous ruins is to wander alone and take 
in the full meaning of the work and the genius of the men 
who did it. The guides have nothing to tell you. The 
ruins to them are partly dwelling-places, pretexts for beg- 
ging rupees. 

General Grant and party visited Benares — the sacred 
city of the Hindoos — a city of temples, idols, priests, and 
worship. The General found so much to interest him in 
India that it was a source of regret to him that he did not 
come earlier in the season. Every hour in the country had 
been full of interest, and the hospitality of the officials and 
the people so generous and profuse, that his way had been 
especially pleasant. Travel during the day in India is very 
severe. Mrs. Grant stood the journey, especially the se- 
verer phases of it, marvellously, and justifies the reputation 
for endurance and energy which she won on the Nile. 
The General is a severe and merciless traveler, who never 
tires, always ready for an excursion or an experience, as in- 
different to the comforts or necessities of the way as if he 
had been on the tented field. Upon arriving at the station 
of Benares, Mr. Daniels, the representative of the Viceroy, 
met the General and party. A large guard of honor was 
in attendance, accompanied by the leading military and 
civic English representatives and native rajahs, who walked 
down the line with uncovered heads. 

In honor of the General's coming, the road from the 



TOUR AROUND THE WORLD. 189 

station to the Government House had been ilhiminated. 
Poles had been stuck in the ground on either side of the 
road, and from these poles lanterns and small glass ves- 
els filled with oil were swinging. So as they drove, before 
and behind was an avenue of light that recalled the Paris 
boulevards as seen from Montmartre. It was a long drive 
to the house of the Commissioner. A part of his house 
Mr. Daniels gave to General and Mrs. Grant and Mr. Borie. 
For the others there were tents in the garden. 

Benares, the sacred city of the Hindoos, sacred also to 
the Buddhists, is one of the oldest in the world. Macau- 
lay's description, so familiar to all, is worth reprinting, from 
the vividness with which it represents it, as to-day. " Ben- 
ares," says Macaulay, in his essay on Warren Hastings, 
"was a city which, in wealth, population, dignity and sanc- 
tity, was among the foremost in Asia. It was commonly 
believed that half a million human beings were crowded 
into that labyrinth of lofty alleys, rich with slirines and 
minarets, and balconies and carved oriels, to which the 
sacred apes clung by hundreds. The traveler could scarcely 
make his way through the press of holy mendicants and 
not less holy bulls. The broad and stately flights of steps 
which descended from these swarming haunts to the bath- 
ing places along the Ganges were worn every day by the 
footsteps of an innumerable multitude of worshipers. 
The schools and temples drew crowds of pious Hindoos 
from every province where the Brahminical faith was 
known. Hundreds of devotees came thither every month 
to die, for it was believed that a peculiarly happy fate 
awaited the man who should pass from the sacred city 
into the sacred river. Nor was superstition the only motive 
which allured strangers to that great metropolis. Com- 
merce had as many pilgrims as religion. All along the 
shores of the venerable stream lay great fleets of vessels 
laden with rich merchandise. From the looms of Benares 



igO GENERAL U. S. GRANT S 

went forth the most deHcate silks that adorned the halls ol 
St, James and Verseilles; and in the bazaars the muslins 
of Bengal and the sabres of Oude were mingled with the 
jewels of Golconda and the shawls of Cashmere." Ben- 
ares to one-half the human race — to the millions in China 
who profess Buddhism and the millions in India who wor- 
ship Brahma — is as sacred as Jerusalem to the Christian 
or Mecca to the Mohammedan. Its greatness was known 
in the days of Nineveh and Babylon, when, as another 
writer says, " Tyre was planting her colonies, when Athens 
was gaining in strength, before Rome became known, or 
Greece had contended with Persia, or Cyrus had added to 
the Persian monarchy, or Nebuchadnezzar had captured 
Jerusalem." The name of Benares excites deep emotiont 
in the breast of every pious Kmaoo, and his constant prayer 
is, " Holy Kasi ! Would that I could see the eternal city- 
favored of the gods! Would that I might die on its sacred 
soil!" 

Benares is a city of priests- Its population is over two 
hundred thousand; of this numoer twenty-five thousana 
are Brahmins. They govern the city, and hold its temples, 
wells, shrines and streams. Pilgrims are constantly arriv- 
ing; as many as two hundred thousand come in the course 
of the year. Not long since, one authority counted fourteen 
hundred and fifty-four Hindoo temples, and two hundred 
and seventy-two mosques. In addition to the temples, 
there are shrines — cavities built in walls, containing the 
image of some god — as sacred as the temples. Pious 
rahjas are always adding to the temples and shrines. The 
streets are so narrow that only in the widest can even an 
elephant make his way. They are alleys — narrow alleys, 
not streets — and, as you thread your way through them, 
you feci as if the town were one house, the chambers only 
separated by narrow passages. Benares, the holy city — 
holy even now in the eyes of more than half the human 



TOUR AROUND THK WORLD. 



191 



race — whose glories, religious and civic, have been forgot- 
ten in the noise and glitter of our recent civilization. 

The priest is a sacred ruler. He is the first in caste; 
the world was made for him, and other men depend upon 
him. If he is angry and curses, his curses can overturn 
thrones, scatter troops, even destroy this world and summon 
other worlds into existence. He is above the King in dig- 
nity. His life is sacred, and, no matter the enormity of the 
crime, he cannot be condemned to death. The Brahmins 
are the strongest social and religious force in Hindostan. 
Benares is their cit}'. The policy which founded the order 
of Jesuits has often been cited as a masterpiece of govern- 
ment, of combining the strongest intellectual force toward 
missionary enterprise. But the order of Jesuits is a society 
under rules and discipline only binding its members. The 
Brahmins not only govern themselves as rigidlv as the 
Jesuits, and hold themselves ready to go as far in the serv- 
ice of their faith, but they ha\e imposed their wnll upon 
every other class. Men of the world, men in other callings, 
use the name of Jesuit as a term of reproacin, ana even 
Catholic kings have been known to banish them and put 
them outside of civil law. There is not a prince in Hindos- 
tan who would dare to put a straw in the path of a Brah- 
min. Brahminism is one of the oldest institutions in the 
world, one of the most extraordinary developments of 
human intellect and discipline, and there is no reason to 
suppose that its power over India will ever pass away. 

Here is the sacred river Ganges. No office is so sacred 
to the dead as to burn his body on the banks of the Ganges. 
Several slabs were observed near the burning Ghat; these 
^vere in memory of widows who had burned themselves on 
that spot in honor of their husbands, according to the old 
rite of suttee. Benares sits on the sacred river, an emblem 
of the strange religion which has made it a holy city, and 
there is solemnity in the thought that for ages she has kept 



192 GENERAL U. S. GRANT S 

her place on the Ganges ; that for ages her shrhies have been 
holy to millions of men; that forages the wisest and purest 
and best of the Indian race have wandered as pilgrims 
through her narrow streets and plunged themselves as peni- 
tents into the waters to wash away their sins. It is all a 
dark superstition, but let us honor Benares for the comfort 
she has given to so many millions of sinful, sorrowing- 
souls. And as the white towei's and steps of Benares, glis- 
tening in the sunshine, are left behind, the tourists look 
back upon it with something of the respect and affection 
that belong to antiquity, and which are certainly not 
unworthily bestowed upon so renowned, so sacred and so 
venerable a city. 

General Grant visited Delhi. Upon his arrival there 
was a grand reception by troops, and the General and his 
wife drove to Ludlow Castle, the home of the chief officer. 
Delhi is a beautiful city, as the houses are built for air, and 
not, as in American cities, several, stories high. This will 
account for the great size of Indian cities — that they are so 
many miles long and so many broad. 

There are few cities in the world which have had a 
more varied and more splendid career than Delhi. It is 
the Rome of India, and the history of India centres around 
Delhi. It has no such place as Benares in the religion of 
the people, but to the Indians it is what Rome in the 
ancient days was to the Roman Empire. One of its au- 
thentic monuments goes back to the fourth century before 
Christ. Its splendor began with the rise of the Mogul 
empire, and the splendor of the Moguls is seen in what 
they built, and the severity of their creed in what they 
destroyed. Outside of the English section, nothing but the 
ruins and desolation of many wars and dynasties. 

From the Cashmere gate to the Rutab, a ride of eleven 
miles, your road is through monumental ruins — tombs, 
temples, mausoleums, mosques, in all directions. The hori- 



TOUR AROUND THE WORLD. I93 

zon is studded with minarets and domes, all abandoned, 
and many in ruins. 

The General and party visited the palace of the Grand 
Mogul; saw the throne of Aurungzebe — the peacock 
throne. This was simply a mass of jewels and gold, val- 
ued at thirty millions of dollars. Mr. Beresford, in his 
book on Delhi, says it was called the peacock throne from 
its having the figures of two peacocks standing behind it, 
their tails expanded, and the whole so inlaid with sapphires, 
rubies, emeralds, pearls and other precious stones of appro- 
priate colors, as to represent life. The throne itself was six 
feet long by four feet broad. It stood on six massive feet, 
which, with the body, were of solid gold, inlaid with rubies, 
emeralds and diamonds. It was supported by a canopy of 
gold, upheld by twelve pillars, all richly emblazoned with 
costly gems, and a fringe of pearls ornamented the borders 
of the canopy. 

A visit to the Kutab tower was worthy of remem- 
brance. This tower ranks among the wonders of India. 
It is two hundred and thirty-eight feet high, sloping from 
the base, which is forty-seven feet in diameter, to the sum- 
mit, which is nine feet. It is composed of five sections or 
stories, and with every story there is a change in the de- 
sign. The lower section has twenty-four sides, in the form 
Df convex flutings, alternately semi-circular and rectangur 
W. In the secoud fecttion they are titcular, the third angv 
lar, the fourth a plain cylinder, and the fifth partly fluted 
and partly plain. At each basement is a balcony. On the 
lower sections are inscriptions in scroll work, reciting, in 
Arabic characters, the glory of God, verses from the Koran, 
and the name and achievements of the conqueror who buii. 
the tower. It is believed that, when really complete, with 
the cupola, it must have been twenty feet higher. 

Attended by an officer who took part in the siege, the 
General visited the lines held by the English and the Se 
13 



194 GENERAL U. S. GRAXT's 

poys during the mutiny, when the English Empire in India 
depended for montlis upon the valor and endurance of the 
small army which invested Delhi. 

On February 28, General Grant arrived at Calcutta. The 
railroad authorities, not having any intimation of the Gen- 
eral's visit, made no arrangements for his reception at the 
railway station. Only a few gentlemen were present. A 
company of the Madras Fourteenth Regiment, with band 
and colors, were drawn up in line on the platform, and at 
the bridge was posted the European constabulary of the 
Calcutta police, under the superintendence of Mr. Percy. 
The gentlemen on the platform were Captain Muir, Aide- 
de-Camp to His Excellency the Viceroy; Mr. Lambert, the 
Deputy Commissioner of Police; General Litchfield, the 
American Consul; IMr. R. Macallister, Mr. Frederick 
Coke, Mr. Manockjee Rustomjce and son, and some mas- 
ters of American ships in tiie river. When the tram ar- 
rived, some difficulty was experienced in finding tne car 
riage the General was m, as it was far down the platform, 
where the compan}- of soldiers was drawn up. The Gen- 
eral, Mrs. Grant and Colonel Grant, and two gentlemen 
belonging to his staff, then stepped out of a first-class car- 
riage and were received by the gentlemen, one of whom 
handed to the General a letter from Nawab Abdul Gunny 
Meah, of Dacca, inviting the General over to his place- 
The party then drove to Government House, in two car- 
riages of the Viceroy, which were in waiting outside the 
platform. As the party neared Government House, there 
was a salute of twenty-one guns. In the evening the Vice- 
roy entertained the General and his party at a dinner-party 
at Government House. About fifty ladies and gentlemen 
were honored with invitations to meet them. After the 
toast of the Queen-Empress was drank. Lord Lytton rose, 
and spoke as follows: 

" Ladies and Gentlemen — I sincerely believe that 



TOUR AROUND THE WORLD. I95 

there Is no toast unconnected with our own country and its 
institutions which is honored with greater cordiahty by 
Englishmen of all classes, and in all parts of the world, 
than the toast I am now about to propose to you — because, 
ladies and gentlemen, we English cannot look, and never 
do look, upon America as a foreign country, or upon the 
American people as a foreign people. They are flesh of 
our flesh and bone of our bone. It is true, no doubt, that 
our fathers and their fathers have had their family quarrels, 
over which they have shaken hands — for quarrels will oc- 
casionally occur in the best regulated families; but these 
are quarrels which I trust that neither their children nor 
our children will ever have occasion to renew, for they have 
been practically settled by a separation of political partner- 
ship, prolific in substantial benefits to the best interests of 
mankind. Meanwhile, we Englishmen of the present day 
all regard our American kinsfolk as, if I may say so, the 
rising generation, and the most go-ahead representative of 
that good old sturdy family stock which, while lovingly^ 
loyally and, I hope, lastingly honoring and keeping hon- 
ored its ancestral roof-tree, still sends forth from its little 
island home in the northern seas the hardy offspring of a 
race that has planted and is spreading in every quarter of 
the habitable globe the language in which Shakspeare 
wrote, the liberty for which Washington so nobly labored, 
the social principles of the Code of Blackstone, and the 
ethical principles of the creed of Christianity. 

" Ladies and Gentlemen, the toast I am going to 
propose to you is that of the President of the United States 
of America. This is a toast to which I am sure you would, 
in any circumstances, respond with cordiality. But I am 
confident that in the circumstances which have brought us 
together this evening your cordiality will be quickened by 
the presence of an eminent guest who has twice filled with 
renown the high office we are about to honor in the per- 



196 GENERAL U. S. GRANt's 

son of its present incumbent. Tiiat office, ladies and gen- 
tlemen, is, I think, the highest that can possibly be held — 
the highest that ever has been filled by the citizen of a free 
country, and never has that high office been more worthily 
won or more worthily filled than by the distinguished sol- 
dier to whose sword America is indebted for the re-estab- 
lished Union and permanent peace of those great sovereign 
States, over whose united destinies he has twice success- 
fully presided. It was said by the great poet of our own 
commonwealth that ' peace hath her victories no less re- 
nowned than war,' and with the victories of peace, as well 
as those of war, I am persuaded that the name of General 
Grant will long be honorably associated by a double re- 
nown. 

" Ladies and Gentlemen, it is neither customary nor 
proper to couple the name of any private individual, 
however eminent he may be, with toasts proposed in honor 
of the ruling power of a sovereign state. I am not going 
to infringe that rule; and, as regards the rules of hospi- 
tality, I think you must all feel that of hospitality and of 
sympathy the best expression is in deeds, not words. I 
think, therefore, that it would be on my part an inhospita- 
ble deed if to this toast I added any words which would 
possibly require from our honored guest the conventional 
formality of a reply. But, ladies and gentlemen, this at 
knst let me say before I ^it down: General Ulysses Grant- 
like his classic namesake, has seen men and cities in almost 
every part of the world, enlarging the genius of the states- 
man and the soldier by the experience of the traveler. Let 
us hope that when he returns to that great empire of the 
West, which he has once rescued and twice ruled, he will 
at least take with him a kindly recollection of his brief so- 
journ in this empire of the East, where his visit will long 
be remembered with gratification by many sincere friends 
and well wishers. Ladies and trentlcmen, I have now to 



TOUR AROUND THE WORLD. 197 

request that you will fill your glasses and drink with all 
honor to our last toast this evening. 'The President of 
the United States of America.' " 

General Grant replied, briefly returning tiianks for the 
honor tendered him. 

After a continuous round of enjoyment and thorough 
inspection of all points of interest, the General left Calcutta 
by steamer for a visit to British Burmah. Arriving at the 
city of Rangoon, General Grant and party were saluted by 
two British men-of-war. They had their yards manned in 
honor of the General. All the vessels in the river were 
gaily dressed. The landing was covered with scarlet cloth, 
and the American and British standards were blended. 
All the town seemed to be out, and the river bank was 
lined with the multitude, who looked on in their passive 
Oriental fashion at the pageant. As soon as the boat came 
to the wharf, Mr. Aitcheson, the Commissioner, came on 
board, accompanied by Mr. Leishmann, the American Vice- 
Consul, and bade the General welcome to Burmah. 

On landing, the General was presented to the leading- 
citizens and oflicials, and oflicers of the men-of-war. The 
guard of honor presented arms, and they all drove away to 
the Government House, a pretty, commodious bungalow in 
the suburbs, buried among trees. Mr. Aticheson is one of 
the most distinguished officers in the Indian service. He 
was for some time Foreign Secretary to Calcutta. Burmah, 
however, is already one of the most important of the Brit- 
ish colonies in Asia, and this imjDortance is. not diminished 
by the critical relations between British Burmah and the 
court of the King. Consequently, England requires the 
best service possible in Burmah, and, as a result of her 
policy of sending her wisest men to the most useful places, 
Mr. Aitcheson finds himself in Rangoon. 

The days spent in Rangoon were pleasant; the town is 
interesting. The streets are wide and rectangular, like 



ipS GENERAL U. S. GRANt's 

those of Philadelphia, and the shade trees are grateful. 
Over the city, on a height, which you can see from afar, is 
a pagoda, one of the most famous in Asia. It is covered 
with gilt, and in the evening, when we first raw it, the sun's 
rays made it dazzling. This is the land of Buddha and 
that remarkable religion called Buddhism. 

Unlike Brahminism, there is no institution of caste, no 
priestly caste. The priests are taken from any rank in life, 
never marry, and they deny themselves all the pleasures of 
the sense, live a monastic life, dress in yellow gowns, shave 
their heads and beards, and walk barefooted. The priests 
go in procession. They chant hymns and prayers, and burn 
incense. They carry strings of beads like the rosary, which 
they count and fumble as the say their prayers. There is 
no single, solemn ceremony like the sacrifice of the mass. 
Priests and people kneel before the images surrounded by 
blazing wax lights, the air heavy with incense. They pray 
together, the priests only known by the yellow gowns. 
They pray kneeling with clasped, uplifted hands. Some- 
times they hold in their hands a rose, or a morsel of rice, or 
a fragment of bread, as an offering. During their prayers, 
they frequently bend their bodies so that the face touches 
the ground. There are convents for women. The tem- 
ples are places of rest and refuge. Hither come the unfor- 
tunate, the poor, the needy, the halt and blind, the belated 
traveler. All are received, and all are given food and 
alms. 

Rangoon is not only interesting from a religious sense, 
but it one of the largest commercial centers of the British 
colonies, and General Grant found no part of his visit more 
interesting, or more worthy of his attention, than the devel- 
opment of the commerce of Rangoon with the United 
States. American merchandise now goes to Burmah in 
English ships, and has to pay an English tax before it 
can enter this market. With a little effort on the part of 



TOUR AROUND THE WORLD. I99 

the merchants of the United States, a large market would 
be found for " Yankee notions," petroleum and ice; for, if 
proper houses were built for storing ice, it could be made a 
steady and profitable trade. Ice is now made by machinery, 
but it is poor, costly and unsatisfactory, and the machinery 
constantly out of order. 

A trade based on those articles, established in Rangoon, 
would supply Burmah, permeate Upper Burmah, Siam and 
China, and make its way into the islands and settlements. 

No country in the East is more worthy of the attention 
of our merchants than Burmah; the harvest is ripe, and 
whoever comes in will reap a hundred fold. 



CHAPTER XVI. 



GENERAL GRANT IN SIAM. 

General Grant, on landing at Singapore, was landed 
an autograph letter by Major Struder — a letter enclosed 
in an envelope of blue satin, froin the King of Siam; the 
letter read as follows: 

The Grand Palace, Bangkok, ) 
4th February, 1S79. ) 

My Dear Sir: Having heard from my Minister 
for Foreign Affairs, on the authority of the United States 
Consul, that you are expected in Singapore en your way 
to Bangkok, I beg to express the pleasure I shall have 
in making your acquaintance. Possibly you may arrive 
in Bangkok during my absence at my country residence, 
Bang Pa In; in which case a steamer will be placed at 
your disposal to bring you to me. On arrival I beg 
you to communicate with His Excellency, my Minister 
for Foreign Affairs, who will arrange for your reception 
and entertainment. 

Yours very truly, 

Chulahlongkorn, R. S. 
To General Grant, late President of the United States. 

The letter that the King had taken the trouble to send 
all the way to Singapore, and the desire of General Grant 
to sec all that was to be seen, decided him in accepting 
this flattering invitation, and visit Siam. So the General 
and party prepared at once for Siam. A heavy rain 
swept over Singapore as they embarked on the small 
steamer Kang Sec, on the morning of the 9th of April. 



TOUR AROUND THE WORLD. 20I 

The run to Bangkok is set down at four days, and 
sometimes there are severe storms in the Gulf of Siam; 
but fortune was with them in this, as it had, indeed, 
been with them, so far as weatlier at sea is concerned, ever 
since they left Marseilles. The evening of their sailing 
some one hai^pened to remember was the anniversary of 
the surrender of Lee — fourteen years ago to-day — and 
the hero of the surrender was sitting on the deck of a 
small steamer smoking and looking at the clouds, and 
gravel}' arguing Mr. Borie out of a purpose which some 
one has wickedly charged him with entertaining — the 
purpose of visiting Australia and New Zealand and New 
Guinea, and sj^ending the summer and winter in the Pacific 
Ocean. 

On the morning of the 14th of April, the little steamer 
in putting into Bangkok lost her reckoning and could not 
pass the inner bar. About ten o'clock the royal yacht 
anchored within a cable's length — a long, stately craft, 
with the American colors flying at the fore, and the royal 
colors at the main. A boat put off at once, conveying 
Mr. Sickles, our Consul, the son of the Foreign Minister, 
representing the Siamese government, and an aid of the 
King. Mr. Sickles presented the Siamese officials to the 
General, and the King's aid handed him the following 
letter, enclosed in an envelope of yellow satin : — 

The Grand Palace, Bangkok, , ) 
April II, 1879. ) 

Sir : I have very great pleasure in welcoming you to 
Siam. It is, I am informed, your j^leasure that 30ur recep- 
tion should be a private one; but you must permit me to 
show, as far as I can, the high esteem in which I hold the 
most eminent citizen of that great nation which has been 
so friendly to Siam, and so kind and just in all its inter- 
course with the nations of the far East. 

That you may be near me during your stay, I have 
commanded my brother, His Royal Highness the Celestial 
Prince Bhanurangsi Swangwongse, to prepare rooms for 



202 GENERAL U. S. GRAXt's 

you and your party in the Saranrom Palace, close to my 
palace, and I most cordially invite you, Mrs. Grant and 
your party at once to take up your residence there, and my 
brother will represent me as your host. 

Your friend, 

Chulahlongkorn, R. S. 
His Excellency General Grant, late President of the United States. 

At four o'clock the General embarked on a royal gon- 
dola, and was slowly pulled to the shore. The guard pre- 
sented arms, the cavalry escort wheeled into line, the band 
played "Hail Columbia." On ascending the stairs, Mr. 
Alabaster, the royal interpreter, Captain Bush, an English 
officer commanding the Siamese navy, and a brilliant 
retinue, were in waiting. The Foreign Minister advanced 
and welcomed the General to Siam, and presented him to 
the other members of the suite. Then entering carriages, 
the General and party were driven to the palace of Hwang 
Saranrom, the home of His Royal Highness the Celestial 
Prince Bhanurangsi Swangv^ongse. As they drove past 
the barracks the artillery were drawn up in battery, and the 
cannon rolled out a salute of twenty-one guns. On reaching 
the palace a guard was drawn up, and another band played 
the American national air. At the gate of the palace, Phra 
Sri Dhammason, of the foreign office, met the General and 
escorted him to the door of the palace. Here he was met 
by his Excellency Phya Bashakarawangse, the King's pri- 
vate secretary, and a nobleman of nmk corresponding to 
that of an English earl. At the head of the marble steps 
was His Royal Highness the Celestial Prince, wearing the 
decorations of the Siamese oixlcrs of nobility, surrounded 
by other pi-inces of a lesser rank and the members of his 
household. Advancing, he shook hands with the General, 
and, offering his arm to Mrs. Grant, led the party to the 
grand audience chamber. Here all the party were presented 
to the Prince, and there was a short conversation. The 
Celestial Prince is a young man about twenty, with a clear, 



TOUR AROUND THE WORLD. 203 

expressive face, who speaks Eng^lish fairly well, but, during 
the interview, spoke Siamese, through Mr. Alabaster, who 
acted as interpreter. The Prince lamented the weather, 
which was untimely and severe. However, it would be a 
blessing to the country and the people, and His Royal 
Highness added a compliment that was Oriental in its 
delicacy when he said that the blessing of the i^ain was a 
blessing which General Grant had brought with him to 
Siam. The Prince then said that his palace was the Gen- 
eral's home, and that he had been commanded by the King, 
his brother, to say that anything in the Kingdom that would 
contribute to the happiness, comfort or honor of General 
Grant, was at his disposal. The Prince entered into con- 
versation with Mrs. Grant and the members of the Gen- 
eral's party. The General expressed himself delighted 
with the cordiality of his welcome, and said he had been 
anxious to see Siam, and would have regretted his inability 
to do so. The Prince offered his arm to Mrs. Grant, and 
escorted her and the General to their apartments, while the 
members of his suite assigned the remainder of the party 
to the quarters they were to occupy while they lived in the 
capital of Siam. 

The evening was passed quietly, the General and party 
dining quietly with the Celestial Prince. The programme 
arranged by the King for the entertainment of his guests 
was submitted to General Grant, who regretted his inability 
to follow the whole of it. Not being on his own ship (the 
Richmond), which would have awaited his convenience, 
the General was compelled to return to Singapore on the 
ordinary mail steamer, which, leaving on Friday, only left 
him five days for Bangkok. So one or two dinners were 
eliminated, the visits to the temples and elephants massed 
into one day, and the run up the river to Ayuthia, the old 
capital of Siam, added. 

On the morning after the General's arrival, a visit was 



204 GENERAL U. S. GRANT's 

made to the ex-Regent. This aged statesman is one of the 
leading men in Siam, the first nobleman in the realm in 
influence and authority. He was the intimate friend and 
counsellor of the late King. He governed the Kingdom 
during the minority of the present sovereign. It w^as 
through his influence that the accession of His Majesty 
was secured without question or mutiny. He is now the 
chief of the Council of State, and governs several prov- 
inces of Siam with the power of life and death. His 
voice in council is potent, partly because of his rank and 
experience, and partly because of his old age, which is 
always respected in, Siam. Their journey to the Regent's 
was in boats in Venetian fashion, and, after a half-hour's 
pulling down one canal and up another, and across the river 
to a third canal, and up that to a fourth, they came to a 
large and roomy palace shaded with trees. Orders had been 
given by the King that the canals and river should be kept 
free from trading craft and other vessels at the hours set 
down in the programme for the ofiicial visits. As a con- 
sequence, whenever they took to their boats they pulled 
along at a rapid pace with no chance of collision. 

As the boat pulled up to the foot of the palace, the ex- 
Regent, his breast beai'ing many orders, was waiting to 
receive the General. He was accompanied by Mr. Chand- 
ler, an American gentleman who has spent many years in 
Siam, and knows the language perfectly. The ex-Regent 
is a small, spare man, with a clean-cut, well shaped head, 
and a face reminding you, in its outlines and the general set 
of the countenance, of the late M. Thiers. It lacked the 
vivacity which was the characteristic of M. Thiers, and 
was a grave and serious face. He advanced, shook hands 
with the General, and, taking his hand, led him up 
stairs to the audience room of the palace. A guard of 
honor presented arms, the band played. The Regent led 
us into his audience hall, and, placing General Grant on his 



TOUR AROUND THE WORLD. 205 

right, we all ranged ourselves about him on chairs. An 
audience with an Eastern Prince is a serious and a solemn 
matter. The Siamese is a grave person. He shows you 
honor by speaking slowly, saying little, and making pauses 
between his speeches. After you take your seat, servants 
begin to float around. They bring you tea in small china 
cups -=— tea of a delicate and pure flavor, and unlike our own 
attempts in that direction. They bring you cigars, and in 
the tobacco way we noted a cigarette with a leaf made out 
of the banana plant, which felt like velvet between the lij^s, 
and is an improvement in the tobacco way which even the 
ripe culture of America on the tobacco question could with 
advantage accept. In Siam you can smoke in every place, 
and before every presence, except in the presence of the 
King. 

The Regent, after some meditation, spoke of the great 
pleasure it had given him to meet with General Grant in 
Siam. He had long known and valued the friendship of the 
United States, and he was sensible of the good that had 
been done to Siam by the counsel and the enterprise of 
the Americans who had lived there. 

The General thanked the Regent, and was glad to 
know that his country was so much esteemed in the East. 
There was a pause and a cup of the enticing tea and some 
Vemarks on the weather. The General expressed a desire 
'o know whether fhc untisual rain v ould affect the crops 

throughout the COUnrry. Tnc Jxcgcm smu mere was no 

such apprehension, and there was another pause, while the 
velvet-coated cigarettes and cigars passed into general c. "cu- 
lation. The General spoke of the value to Siam and to 
all countries in the East of the widest commercial inter- 
course with nations of the outer world, and that, from all 
he could learn from the Siamese and the character of their 
resources, any extension of relations with other nations 
would be a gain to them. His Highness listened to this 



2o6 GENERAL U. S. GRANt's 

speech, as Mr. Chandler translated it in a slow and delib- 
erate way, standing in front of the Regent, and intoning it 
almost as though it were a lesson from the morning service. 
Then there was another pause; then the Regent responded : 
Siam, he said, was a peculiar country. It was away 
from sympathy and communion with the greater nations. 
It was not in one of the great highways of commerce. Its 
people were not warlike nor aggressive. It had no desire 
to share in the strifes and wars of other nations. It existed 
by the friendship of the great powers. His policy had 
always been to cultivate that friendship, to do nothing to 
oifend any foreign power, to avoid controversy or pretexts 
for intervention by making every concession. 

All this was spoken slowly, deliberately, as if every 
sentence was weighed, the old Minister speaking slowly, 
like one in meditation. His deliberate speech seemed to 
have unusual significance, and made a deep impression 
upon his visitors — the impression that he who spoke wa^ 
one in authority and a statesman. After further talk, tnc 
Regent addressed himself to Mr. Borie, and asked him his 
age. Mr. Borie answered that he was sixty-nine. " I am 
seventy- two," said the Regent: "but you look much 
older." It is a custom in Siamese, when you wish pay a 
compliment to an elderly person, to tell him how old he 
looks, to compliment him on his gray hairs and the lines in 
his brow. In speaking with Mr. Boric, the Regent became 
almost playful. " You must not have the trouble of a navy 
in another war." Mr. Boric expressed his horror of war, 
and added that America had had enough of it. " At our 
time of life," said the Regent, putting his hand on Mr. 
Borie's shoulder in a half playful, half affectionate manner, 
" we need repose, and that our lives should be made smooth 
and free from care, and we should not be burdened with 
authority or grave responsibilities. That belongs to the 
others. I hope you will be spared any cares." This 



TOUR AROUND THE WORLD. 207 

practically closed the interview, and the Regent, taking the 
hand of the General in his own, in Oriental fashion, led 
him down-stairs arfd across the entrance-way to' the boat, 
the troops saluting and the band playing. Then he took a 
cordial farewell of Mr, Borie, telling him he was a brave 
man to venture around the world with the burden of so 
many years upon him. 

The King of Siam issued the following order for the 
reception and entertainment of General Grant^ which was 
faithfully canicd out: 

" Programme for the reception and entertainment of General U. S. 

Grant, ex-Presidcnt of the United States of America, subject to 

such modifications as he may deem expedient: 
"First Day. — On the arrival of the mail steamer Kong 
Sec, conveymg General Grant and party, at Paknam, a 
deputation, consisting of Phra Bairaybakya Bhakdi, Phra 
Sri Sombat and Luang Salayut Witikan, Captain of the 
Royal Body Guard, will proceed on board the steam yacht 
Rising tSun to the steamer Kong See. On going on board, 
they will welcome General Grant in the name of His 
Majesty, and, on presenting His Majesty's best wishes to 
General Grant and jDarty, will invite them on board the 
Rising Sun and convey them up to Bangkok. On their 
arrival at Bangkok the steam yacht will anchor off the In- 
ternational Court House. Officers of the Foreign Depart- 
ment will then proceed to the steam yacht in house boats, 
with paddles, one of eight and one of seven fathoms in 
length, to invite and convey General Grant, Mrs. Grant 
and party to the landing at the International Court House. 
There will be a company, consisting of one hundred sol- 
diers, with a military band, at the landing, as a guard of 
honor. Phya Pihasbarawongree, Private Secretary to His 
Majesty, Phra Bpaksa Nanaprates Kich, Judge of the In- 
ternational Court, with officers of the Royal Horse Guard 
and officers of the Foreign Department, will be in waiting^ 



2o8 GENERAL U. S. GRANT'S 

at the landing to invite General Grant, Mrs. Grant and 
party to take carriages and proceed to the Grand Saronrom 
Palace. A guard of honor will be drawn up in front of 
the palace, consisting of twenty soldiers and a military band 
for the occasion. Phra Sudham Maitre and Phra Sri 
Dhamasan will be in waiting at the door of the palace to 
receive General Grant and party. His Royal Highness 
Somdech Chowfa Bhanurangse Sawangwongo, and His 
Excellency Chow Phya Bhann Wongse Maha Cosa Dhi- 
poti, Minister for Foreign Affairs, will be in waiting in the 
upper porch to w^elcome them to the j^alace. General 
Grant and party having gone into the palace, a salute of 
twenty-one guns will be fired. In case the arrival occurs 
in the night, the salute will be deferred until the morning. 

"Second Day At ten o'clock a. m. the officers will 

invite General Grant to visit His Highness Somdech Chow 
Phya Boom Maha Suramngse, the ex-Regent, and mem- 
bers of the Senabodi, and will be conveyed in carriages to 
the landing of the International Court, then in boats. They 
will return by the same route. At four o'clock p. M. the 
officers will invite General Grant, Mrs. Grant and party 
to an audience with His Majesty the King of Siam, in the 
royal palace. The aud-ence will be held in the grand 
audience hall, Boromraj Satet Maholan. After the royal 
audience they will be conveyed in carriages to an audience 
with Hij Llajesty Krow Phrarajawany Pavvara Sthaff 
Mongal, second Kmg. At nhie o'clock p. m. His Royal 
Pl'ighncss Somdech Chowfa Bhanurangse Sawangwongo 
will hold a reception in honor of General Grant at the Pal- 
ace Saronrom. 

"Third Day On the morning of this day His Maj- 
esty the King of Siam will return the visit of General 
Grant at the Palace Saronrom. At four p. m. the officers 
will invite General Grant and party to pay a visit to His 
Royal Highness Somdech Phra Chow Boronwongee Ter 



TOUR AROUND THE WORLD. 2O9 

Chowfa Maha Mala Krom Phra Bamrap Parapax, and 
will be conveyed in carriages. At eleven o'clock p. m. 
General Grant, Mrs. Grant and party will be entertained 
at a royal banquet in the royal palace, Boromraj Satet 
Maholan, and will be conveyed in carriages. 

"Fourth Day. — At four o'clock p. m. the officers 
will invite General Grant and party to pay a visit to His 
Royal Highness Somdech Chowfa Chaturomasami Krom- 
duang Chakrapatdipong. After which they will take a 
look at the Monastery Arunrayweram-Wat-Chung. At 
seven o'clock General Grant and party will be entertained 
at dinner at the official residence of His Excellency the 
Minister for Foreign Affairs, and will be conveyed in car- 
riages and in boats. 

" Fifth Day. — At three o'clock p. m. the officers will 
invite General Grant and party to the Monastery Phra 
Budhoatnesatan and the Monastery Phrasee Ratnesasa- 
dahram, also the museum at the royal palace. They will 
then be invited to a private audience with His Majesty the 
K'ng, in the royal palace. At seven o'clock p. m. Gen- 
eral Grant and party will be entertained at a dinner party 
at the official residence of His Highness Somdech Chow 
Phva Borom Maha Sri Suramngse, the ex-Regent. 

" Sixth Day. — At three o'clock p. m. officers will in- 
vite General Grant and party to visit the temple Satatteph 
Taram and the temple Phra Chattupun Vevnon Niank- 
ahram, and from thence will go into the Ro^-al Palace to 
see the royal white elephants. After that he will proceed 
to the palace of His Roval Highness Somdech Chowfa 
Maha Mala Krom Phra Bamap Parapax to see the state 
elephants and the elephants of war. At eight o'clock p. m. 
His Royal Highness .Somdech Chowfa Chaturong Rasami 
Krom Luang Chakrapatdipon will entertain General Grant 
and party with a ball at the old royal palace. 

" Seventh Day. — At nine o'clock a. m. the officers 
14 



2IO GENERAL U. S. GRAXT'S 

will invite General Grant and party to embark on board 
the royal yacht Vesatri, to take an excursion, to view the 
scenery on the River Chow Phya. General Grant and 
party will be conveyed in carriages to the landing, and 
thence embark on board the Vesatri, and will return in the 
same manner. At four o'clock in the afternoon the officers 
will invite General Grant, Mrs. Grant and party to a royal 
audience with His Majesty at the royal palace." 

In Siam there is a second King, or as occupying a posi- 
tion similar to that of the Vice-President of the United 
States. 

In Siam the second King is a person and an authority, 
entitled to royal honors, living in a palace, with ti-oops, a 
court, a harem and a Foreign Minister. He has an income 
from the State of $300,000 a year. Of authority he has 
none beyond tiie management of his household and the 
command of troops in certain of the provinces. 

The second King, therefore, is a political influence ijj 
Siam — gveat, because behind him is the supposed powe' 
of England. Take that power away, and His Majesty 
would be ranked among the nobles, allowed the jjosition 
of a duke, given his place after the royal family, and the 
present office would be eliminated altogether from the 
government of Siam. It certainly seems to be an expen- 
sive and an almost useless function, one that might readily 
he absorbed into J;.3 royal office v/ivl? » prain to thetreasurf 
aiiCi liu loss lo tnc otatc. 1 nc prmcc wno noicis tne posi- 
tion is in his fortieth 3X'ar and is a gentleman of intelligence. 

His Majesty the first King of Siam, and absolute sover- 
eign, is named Chulahlongkorn. This, at least, is the name 
which he attaches to the ro3'al signet. His name as given 
in the books is Phrabat Somdetch Phra Paramcndo Mahah 
Chulah-long-korn Klow. 

On the afternoon of April i^, at three o'clock, General 
Grant and party had their audience with the King of Siam, 



TOUR AROUND THE WORLD. 211 

Our Palace of Saronrom, in which we are Hving, is next 
to the Grand Palace; but so vast are these royal homes 
that it was quite a drive to the house of Our next-door 
neighbor. The General and party went in state carriages, 
and at the door of the palace were met by anofiicer. Troops 
were drawn up all the way from the gate to the door of 
the audience hall, and it was cj^uite a walk before, having 
passed temples, shrines, outhouses, pavilions and statelier 
mansions, we came to the door of a modest building and 
were met by aids of the King. A wide pair of marble 
steps led to the audience room, and on each side of the steps 
were pots with blooming flowers and rare shrubs. The 
band in the courtyard played the national air, and as the 
General came to the head of the stairs the King, who was 
waiting, and wore a magnificent jeweled decoratioUj r.i- 
vanced and shook the hands of the General in the warmest 
manner. Then, shaking hands with Mrs. Grant, he offered 
her his arm, and walked into the audience hall. The au- 
dience hall is composed of rwo large, gorgeously decorated 
saloons, that would not be out of place hi any palace. The 
decorations were French, and reminded you of the Louvre. 
In the first hall were a series of busts of contemporary sov- 
ereigns and rulers of states. The place of honor was 
given to the bust of General Grant, a work of art in d?trk 
bronze which did not look much like the General, and 
»eems to have boen ninde by a French or English artLf' 
from photographs. From here the King passed on to a 
smaller room, beautifully furnished in yellow satin. Here 
the King took a seat on a sofa, with JSIrs. Grant and the 
General on either side, the members of the party on chairs 
near him, ofiicers of the court in the background standing, 
and servants at the doors, kneeling in attitudes of sub- 
mission. The King is a spare young man, active and 
nervous in his movements, with a full, clear, almost glitter- 
ing black eye, which moved about restlesslv from one to 



212 GENERAL U. S. GRANT's 

the other, and while he talked his lingers seemed to be 
keeping unconscious time to the musical measures. When 
any of his c(5urt approached him, or were addressed by 
him, they responded by a gesture or salute of adoration. 
Everything about the King betokened a high and quick intel- 
ligence, and, although the audience was a formal one, and the 
conversation did not go beyond words of courtesy and wel- 
come froni the King to the General and his partv, he gave 
you the impression of a resolute and able man, full of re- 
sources and quite equal to the cares of his station. This 
impression was confirmed by all that we heard or saw in 
Siam. The audience at an end, the King led Mrs. Grant 
and the General to the head of the stairs, and we took our 
leave. 

At three o'clock, on the 15th of April, the King 
returned the General's visit, by coming in state to see him 
at our palace of Saronrom. This, we were told, was a 
most unusual honor, and was intended as the highest com- 
pliment it was in His Majesty's power to betow. A state 
call from a King is an event in Bangkok, and long before 
the hour the space in front of the palace was filled with 
curious Siamese and Chinesq, heedless of the rain, waiting 
to gaze upon the celestial countenance. As the hour came, 
there was the bustle of preparation. First came a guard, 
which formed in front of the palace; then a smaller guard, 
which formed in the palace yard, from the gate to the 
porch; then a band of music, which stood at the rear of 
the inner guard; then came attendants, carrying staves in 
their hands to clear the streets, and give warning that the 
King was coming, that the streets should be abandoned by 
all, so that His Majesty should have unquestioned way. 
Then came a squadron of the royal body guard in scarlet 
uniform, under the command of a royal Prince. The King^ 
sat in a carriage alone on the back seat, with two princes 
with him, who sat on the front seats. His Royal High- 



TOUR AROUND THE WORLD. 213 

ness and the members of the household arrayed themselves 
in state garments, the Prince wearing a coat of purple 
silk. The General and his party wore evening dress, as 
worn at home on occasions of ceremony. When the trum- 
pets announced the coming of the King, the General, 
accompanied by the Prince, the members of his household 
and party, came to the foot of the stairs. Colonel Grant, 
wearing the uniform of a lieutenant-colonel, waited at the 
gate to receive the King in his father's name. 

The General waited at the foot of the marble steps, 
and, as the King advanced, shook hands with him cordially 
and led him to the reception room. The King was dressed 
in simple Siamese costume, wearing the decoration of Siam, 
but not in uniform. Mr. Alabaster, the interpreter, stood 
behind the King and the General. The King, who spoke 
Siamese, said he hoped that the General had found every- 
thing comfortable for himself and party at the Saranrom 
Palace. 

The General said that nothing could be more agreeable 
than the hospitality of the Prince. 

The King said he hoped that the General, if he wanted 
anything, to see any part of Siam, go anywhere or do any- 
thing, would express the wish, as he would feel it a great 
privilege to give him anything in this kingdom. 

General Grant said he appreciated the King's kind- 
ness, and thanked him. 

The King, after a pause, said that General Grant's visit 
was especially agreeable to him, because, not only in his 
own reign, but before, Siam had been under obligations to 
the United States. Siam saw in the United States not only 
a great but a friendly power, which did not look upon the 
East with any idea of aggrandizement, and to whom it was 
always pleasant to turn for counsel and advice. More than 
that, the influence of most of the Americans who had come 



214 GENERAL U. S. GRANt's 

to Siam had been good, and those who had been in the 
government's service had been of vahie to the State. The 
efforts of the missionaries to spread a knowledge of the 
arts and sciences, of machinery and of medicine, among the 
Siamese, had been commendable. The King was glad to 
have the opportunity of saying this to one who had been 
the chief magistrate 6f the American people. 

General Grant responded that the policy of the United 
States was a policy of non-intervention in everything that 
concerned the internal affairs of other nations. It had 
become almost a traditional policy, and exj^erience con- 
firmed its wisdom. The country needed all the energies of 
its own people for its development, and its only interest in 
the East was to do what it could to benefit the people^ 
especially in opening markets for American manufactures. 
The General, in his travels through India and Burmah, had 
been much gratified with the commendations bestowed 
upon American products ; and although the market was as 
yet a small one, he felt certain that our trade with the East 
would become a great one. There was the field at least, 
and our people had the opportunity. Nothing would please 
him more than to see Siam sharing in this trade. Beyond 
this there was no desire on the part of the American gov- 
ernment to seek an influence in the East. 

The King said nothing would please him more than the 
widest possible development of the commerce between 
Siam and America. The resources of Siam were great, 
but their development limited. Siam was like the United 
States in one respect, that it had a large territory and a 
small jDopulation, and the development of many sources of 
wealth that were known to exist had been retarded from 
this cause. 

General Grant thought this difficulty might be met by 
the introduction of skilled labor, such, for instance, as 



TOUR AROUND THE WORLD. 215 

mining experts from Nevada and California, wlio could 
prospect and locate mines, and labor-saving- machinery, in 
which the Americans especially excelled. 

The King assented to this, with the remark that the 
Siamese were a conservative j^eople and studied any- 
thing new very carefully before adopting it. Their policy 
in foreign relations had been a simple one — peace with 
foreign powers and steady development of the country. 
Siam was a small country with limited resources, and she 
kne\v that she could not contend with the great foreign 
powers. Consequently she always depended upon the jus- 
tice and good will of foreign powers. This sometimes led 
to their appearing to consent or to submit to some things 
which under other circumstances and by other and greater 
nations would not be endured. In the end, however, it 
worked right, and Siam, looking back over her relations 
with the great powers, found, on the whole, no reason for 
regret. In the main these relations had been for the good 
of the Siamese people. From the foreign powers Siam 
had always received encouragement. 

The King led the way to the upper audience chamber. 
the saloon of the statues. Here ensued a long conversa- 
tion between the King and the General and the various- 
members of the party. Mrs. Grant, in the inner room,, 
had a conversation with the Queen, who had not been at the 
table. In conversing with the General, the King became 
warm and almost affectionate. He was proud of haying 
made the acquaintance of the General, and he wanted to 
know more of the American people. He wished Ameri- 
cans to know that he was a friend of the country. As to 
the General himself, the King hoped when the General 
returned to the United States that he would write the 
King and allow the King to write to him, and alwavs be 
his friend and correspondent. The General said he would 
always remember his visit to Siam; that it would afford 



2l6 GENERAL U, S. GRANT's 

him pleasure to know that he was the friend of the King ; 
that he would write to the King and always be glad to 
hear from him ; and if he could ever be of service to the 
King it would be a pleasure. With Mr. Borie the King 
also had a long conversation, and his manner toward the 
venerable ex-Secretary was especially kind and genial. It 
was midnight before the party came to an end. 

On the next morning there was a state dinner at the 
royal palace. The party consisted of the King, His Royal 
Hio"hness the Celestial Prince, several princes, members of 
the royal family of lower rank. General Grant and party, 
the American Consul, Mr. Sickles, and Miss Struder, 
■daughter of the Consul at Singapore; Mi*. Torrey, the 
American Vice-Consul, and Mrs. Torrey; the Foreign 
jVIinister, his son, the King's private secretary, Mr. Ala- 
baster, the members of the Foreign Office, and the aids of 
the King who had been attending the General. The 
Siamese all wore state dresses — coats of gold cloth, richly 
•embroidered — and the King wore the family decoration, a 
star of nine points, the centre a diamond, and the other 
.points with a rich jewel of different character, embracing 
the precious stones found in Siam. The General was re- 
ceived in the audience hall, and the dinner was served in 
the lower hall or dining-room. There were forty guests 
present, and the service of the table was silver, the prevail- 
ing design being the three-headed elephant, which belongs 
to the arms of Siam. This service alone cost ten thousand 
pounds in England. There were two bands in attendance, 
one playing Siamese, and the other Euro2:)ean music, alter- 
nately. The Celestial Prince escorted Mrs. Grant to dinner, 
and sat opposite the King at the centre of the table. General 
Grant sat next the King. The diinicr was long, elaborate, 
and in the European style, with the exception of some 
dishes of curry dressed in Siamese fashion, which we were 
not brave enough to do more than taste. The night was 



TOUR AROUND THE WORLD. 21^ 

warm, but the room was kept moderately cool by a system 
of penekahs or large fans swinging from the ceiling, which 
kept the air in circulation. 

After they had been at the table about three hours there 
was a pause and a signal. The fans stopped, the music 
paused, and Mr, Alabaster, as interpreter, took his place 
behind the King. His Majesty then arose, and the com- 
pany with him, and, in a clear accent heard all over the 
saloon, made the following speech in Siamese: 

"Your Royal Highxess, Ladies and Gentle- 
men, Now Assembled: I beg you to hear the expres- 
sion of the pleasure which I have felt in receiving as my 
guest a President of the United States of America. Siam 
has for many years past derived great advantages from 
America, whose citizens have introduced into my kingdom 
many arts and sciences, much medical knowledge and many 
valuable books, to the great advantage of the country. 
Even before our countries were joined in treaty alliance, 
citizens of America came here and benefited us. Since 
then our relations have greatly improved, and to the great 
advantage of Siam, and recently the improvement has been 
still more marked. Therefore it is natural that we should 
be exceedingly gratified by the visit paid to us by a President 
of the United States. General Grant has a grand fame, 
that has reached even to Siam, that has been known here 
for several years. We are well aware that as a true soldier 
he first saw glory as a leader in war, and, thereafter accept- 
ing the office of President, earned the admiration of all 
men as being a statesman of the highest rank. It is a great 
gratification to all of us to meet one thus eminent both in 
the government of war and of peace. We see him and 
are charmed by his gracious manner, and feel sure that his 
visit will inaugurate friendly relations with the United 
States of a still closer nature than before, and of the most 
enduring character. Therefore I ask you all to join with 



2l8 GENERAL U. S. GRANT S 

me in drinking the health of General Grant and wishing 
him every blessing." 

When the King finished, Mr. Alabaster translated the 
speech into English, the company all the time remaining 
on their feet. Then the toast was drank with cheers, the 
band playing the American national air. 

General Grant then arose, and, in a low but clear and 
perfectly distinct voice, said : 

"Your Majesty, Ladies and Gentlemen: I 
am very much obliged to Your Majesty for the kind and 
complimentary manner in which you have welcomed me 
to Siam. I am glad that it has been my good fortune to 
visit this country and to thank Your Majesty in person for 
your letters inviting me to Siam, and to see vs^ith my own 
eyes your country and your people, I feel that it would 
have been a misfortune if the programme of my journey 
had not included Siam. I have now been absent from 
home nearly two 3^ears, and during that time I have seen 
every capital and nearly every large city in Europe, as 
well as the principal cities in India, Burmah and the Malay 
Peninsula. I have seen nothmg that has interested me 
more than Siam, and every hour of my visit here has been 
agreeable and instructive. For the welcome I have re- 
ceived from Your Majesty, the princes and members of the 
Siamese government, and the people generally, I am very 
grateful. I accept it, not as personal to myself alone, but 
as a mark of the friendship felt for my country by Your 
Majesty and the people of Siam. I am glad to see that 
feclincr, because I believe that the best interests of the two 
countries can be benefited by nothing so much as the estab- 
lishment of the most cordial relations between them. On 
my return to America I shall do what I can to cement those 
relations. I hope that in America we shall see more of the 
Siamese, that we shall have embassies and diplomatic rela- 
tions, that our commerce and manufactures will increase 



TOUR AROUND THE WORLD. 



219 



with Siam, and that your young men will visit our country 
and attend our colleges as they now go to colleges in Ger- 
many and England, I can assure them all a kind reception, 
and I feel that the visits would be interesting and advan- 
tageous. I again thank Your Majesty for the splendid 
hospitality which has been shown to myself and my party, 
and I trust that your reign wdl be happy and prosperous, 
and that Siam will continue to advance in the arts of civili- 
zation." 

General Grant, after a pause, then said : 

" I hope you will allow me to ask you to drink the 
health of His Majesty the King of Siam. I am honored 
by the opportunity of proposing that toast in his own capi- 
tal and his own palace, and of saying how much I have 
been impressed with his enlightened rule. I now ask you 
to drink the health of His Majesty the King, and prosperity 
and peace to the people of Siam." 

After a round of receptions, entertainments and excur- 
sions, the General bade adieu to Siam, having passed a 
delightful week. 



CHAPTER XVII. 



GENERAL GRANT IN CHINA. 

On April 25, General Grant arrived at Saigon in the 
French mail steamship Irawaddy. He and his party 
-were invited by Rear-Admiral La Fond, Governor of 
French Cochin China, to sojourn at the Government House. 
They passed the night there, and next day visited public 
buildings and places of interest. A public levee was given 
on the evening of the 26th. The guests returned to the 
ship about midnight, and the voyage was resumed on the 
27th. They reached Hong Kong on the evening of April 
30. The ship was immediately boarded by United States 
Consuls Mosby, of Hong Kong; Lincoln, of Canton; 
Charge d' Affaires Holcombe, and deputations of citizens 
of various countries, including Japan. The same evening 
the visitors proceeded to the United States ship Ashuelot, 
where they were received with a salute of twenty-one 
guns. 

After partaking of refreshments, they went ashore in 
the Colonial government launch. Salutes were fired by 
batteries all along the river. 

General Grant arrived at Canton on the evening of 
May 6, and was received by the Consular officials, and con- 
ducted to the Viceroy's yaman, three miles from the point 
of debarkation. Canton is situated on the Pearl River, 
thirty miles from the coast. The Viceroy sent a gunboat 
out as escort up the river. This vessel, bearing the Ameri- 



TOUR AROUND THE WORLD. 221 

can flag at the fore out of compliment to the General, fol- 
lowed all the way. 

At various points in the river — wherever, indeed, there 
were forts — salutes were fired and troops paraded. These 
lines of troops, with their flags — and nearly every other 
man in a Chinese army carries a flag — looked picturesque 
and theatrical as seen from our deck. 

It was nine o'clock in the evening before the lights of 
Canton were seen. The Chinese gunboats, as the General 
and party came to anchorage, burned blue lights and fired 
rockets. The landing was decorated with Chinese lanterns, 
and many of the junks in the river burned lights and dis- 
played the American flag. The whole city had been wait- 
ing all the afternoon, and had now gone home to dinner. 
Next morning salutes were exchanged between the Ash- 
uelot and the Chinese gunboats. The General remained 
at home during the morning to receive calls. The coming 
of General Grant had created a flutter in the Chinese mind. 
No foreign barbarian of so high a rank had ever visited the 
Celestial Kingdom. As soon as the Viceroy learned of 
the visit, he sent vvoi'd to the American Consul that he 
would receive General Grant with special honors. The 
Viceroy ordered all the houses closed, streets cleared and 
the troops paraded. A placard issued, that a foreigner was 
coming to do the Viceroy honor, and that the people must 
do him honor. We give a translation of one of these extra 
bulletins : 

" We have just heard that the King of America, being 
on friendly terms with China, will leave America early in 
the third month, bringing with him a suite of officers, etc., 
all complete on board the ship. It is said that he is bring- 
ing a large number of rare presents with him, and that he 
will be here in Canton about the 6th or 9th of May. He 
will land at the Tintsy ferry, and will proceed to the Vice- 
roy's palace by way of the South gate, the Fantai's Nga- 



333 GENERAI- U. S. GRANT S 

mun and the Waning Street. Viceroy Lan has arranged 
that all the mandarins shall be there to meet him, and a 
full Court will be held- After a little friendly conversa- 
tion he will leave the Viceroy's palace, and visit the vari- 
ous objects of interest within and without the walls. He 
will then proceed to the Roman Catholic Cathedral, to con- 
verse and pass the night. It is not stated what will then 
take place, but notice will be given." 

As the hour approached for the General to enter Can- 
ton, the crowd on the street grew larger and larger. A 
Tartar officer arrived with a detachment of soldiers, who 
formed, and kept the crowd back. Then came the chairs 
and the chair bearers, for in Canton 30U must ride in chairs 
and be borne on the shoulders of men. Rank is shown by 
the color of the chair and the number of attendants. Tlie 
General's chair was a stately affair. On the top was a sil- 
ver globe. The color was green, a color highly esteemed 
in China, and next in rank to yellow, which is sacred and 
consecrated to the Emperor, wno alone can ride in a yellow 
chair. The chair is borne hy eignr men, and swings ou 
long bamboo poles. In addition to the chair bearers, there 
was a small guard of unarmed soldiers, some ahead and 
others behind the chair, whose presence gave dignity to 
the cliair and its occupant. The principal business of this 
guard seemed to be to shout and to make all the noise 
possible. 

At last they were under way for their visit to the Vice- 
roy. First rode the single Tartar officer, then came the 
shouting guard, then General Grant in his chair of state. 
The General wore evening dress. The crowd and enthu- 
siasm manifested all along the route was an extraordinary 
sight wherever the street was intersected with other streets. 
The crowd became so dense that additional troops were 
required to hold them in place, and at various points the 
Chinese salute of three guns was fired. 



TOUR AROUND THE WORLD. 223 

The road to the viceregal palace was three miles, and 
as the pace of the coolie who carries the chair is a slow 
one, and especially on days of multitudes and pageantry, 
they were over an hour on their journey, and for this hour 
they journeyed through a sea of faces, a hushed and silent 
sea, that swept around them, covering windows, doors, 
streets, roof tops, wherever there was room for a pair of 
feet or hands. 

Some of the party estimated that there were two hun- 
dred thousand people to witness General Grant's progress 
through Canton. Two hundred thousand men, women 
and children may be taken, therefore, as an estimate by 
one who saw and took part in the ceremony. But no 
massing together of figures, although you ascend into the 
hundreds of thousands, v/ill give an idea of the multitude. 
The march was a slow one. There were frequent pauses. 
Arrived at the palace of the Viceroy, the visitors descend 
from their chairs, and enter the open reception room or 
audience chamber. But the booming guns, which boom in 
a quick, angry fashion; the increasing crowds, the renewed 
lines of soldiery, now standing in double line, their guns at 
a present; the sons of mandarins, the Viceroy's guard, un- 
der trees, and the open, shaded enclosure into which we 
are borne by our staggering, panting chair-bearers, tell us 
that we are at our journey's end, and at the palace of the 
Viceroy, We descend from ow chairs, ?ind enter the open 
reception room or audience chamber. The Viceroy lum- 
self, surrounded by all the great officers of his court, is wait- 
ing at the door. As General Grant advances, accompanied 
by the Consul, the Viceroy steps forward and meets him 
with a gesture of welcome, which to our barbarian eyes 
looks like a gesture of adoration. He wears the man- 
darin's hat, and the pink button and flowing robes of silk, 
the breast and back embroidered a good deal like the sac- 
rificial robes of an archbishop at high mass. The Viceroy 



224 GENERAL U. S. GRANT's 

is a Chinaman, and not of the governing Tartar race. He 
has a thin, somewhat worn face, and is over fifty years of 
age. His manner was the perfection of courtesy and cor- 
diality. He said he knew how unworthy he was of a visit 
from one so great as General Grant, but that this unwor- 
thiness only increased the honor. Then he presented the 
General to the members of his Court — Chang Tsein, the 
Tartar General; Jen Chi, the Imperial Commissioner of 
Customs; San Chang Mow, the Deputy Tartar General, 
and Chi Hwo, the Assistant Tartar General. After Gen- 
eral Grant had been presented, each of his part}^ in turn 
were welcomed by the Viceroy, and presented to his 
suite. 

During this interchange of compliments the reception 
room was filled with members and retainers of the Court. 
Mandarins, aids, soldiers — all ranks were present. The 
whole scene was one of curiosity and excitement. The 
Chinamen seemed anxious to do all they could to show 
General Grant how w'elcome was his coming, but such a 
visit was a new thing, and they had no precedent for the 
reception of strangers who held so high a position as Gen- 
eral Grant. 

After the civilities were exchanged, the Viceroy led the 
General and party into another room, where there were 
chairs and tables around the room in a semi-circle. Between 
each couple of chairs was a small table, on which were 
cups of tea. The General was led to the place of honor 
in the centre, and the Chinese clustered together in one 
corner. After some persuasion the Viceroy was induced 
to sit beside the General, and the conversation proceeded. 
Nothing was said beyond the usual compliments, which 
were only repeated in various forms. 

After sitting fifteen minutes they drank tea in Chinese 
fashion. The tea is served in two cups, one of which is 
placed over the other in such a manner that when you take 



TOUR AROUND THE WORLD. 



225 



up the cups you have a globe in your hands. The tea is 
plain, and as each particular cup has been brewed by itself — 
is, in fact, brewing while you are waiting — you have the 
leaves of the tea, avoiding the leaves by pushing the ujDj^cr 
bowl down into the lower one so as to leave a minute open- 
ing and draw out the tea. Some drank the tea in orthodox 
home fashion, but others, being sensitive to the reputation 
of barbarism, perhaps, managed the two bowls very much 
as though it were an experiment in jugglery, and drank the 
tea like a mandarin. This ceremony over, they were led 
into another room that opened on a gai'den. Here were 
guards, aids and mandarins and lines of soldiers. They 
found a large table spread covered with dishes — eighty 
dishes in all. A part of a Chinese reception is entertain- 
ment, and the General's was to be regal. They sat around 
the table and a cloud of attendants appeared, who with 
silver and ivory chopsticks heaped their plates. Beside 
each plate were two chopsticks and a knife and fork, so that 
they might eat their food as they pleased, in Chinese or 
European fashion. 

The food was all sweetmeats, candied fruits, walnuts, al- 
monds, ginger, cocoanuts, with cups of tea and wine. The 
Viceroy with his chopsticks helped the General. This is 
true Chinese courtesy, for the host to make himself the serv- 
ant of his guest. Then came a service of wine — sweet 
champagne and sauterne — in which the Viceroy pledged 
us all, bowing to each guest as he drank. Then, again, 
came tea, which in China is the signal for departure, an in- 
timation that your visit is over. The Viceroy and party 
arose and led them to their chairs. Each one was severally 
and especially saluted as they entered their chairs; and as 
they filed off under the trees, their coolies dangling them on 
their shoulders, they left the Viceroy and his whole court, 
with rows of mandarins and far-extending lines of soldiers 
in an attitude of devotion, hands held together toward the 
IS 



226 GENERAL U. S. GRAXt's 

forehead and heads bent, the soldiers with arms presented. 
The music, real, banging, gong-thumping Chinese music, 
broke out, twenty-one guns were fired, so close that the 
smoke obscured the view, and they plunged into the sea of 
hfe through which they had floated, and back again, through 
one of the most wonderful sights ever seen, back to their 
shady home in the American Consulate. 

Consul-General Lincoln gave a grand State dinner on 
the nth. In addition to the members of the General's 
party there were Captain Perkins, Mr. McEwen, Mr. 
Deering, Mr. Case and Mr. Strickland, of the Ashuelot, 
and the leading members of the foreign settlement to the 
number of forty. The whole house was dressed with 
wreaths and evergreens and American flags, and in front 
of the house was a platform for fireworks. The day had 
been fitful as far as ram was concerned, and heavy black 
clouds banked themselves in the skies. But the fire- 
works were fairly successful, and the dinner was good, and 
Mr. Lincoln made an excellent speech, to which the Gea« 
eral replied by thanking the Consul for his courtesy. He 
had, he said, visited every capital and nearly every large 
city in Europe, and looked forward with interest to his con- 
tinued progress through Asia. The honors he received 
were paid, not to him, but to his countr}^, and in that spirit 
he accciDtcd them. He believed that peace could have no 
better assurance than in the harmony and cordial good 
feeling of the civilized nations of the workl, and in presence 
of so many representatives of these nations he felt he 
could propose no better sentiment than the health of the 
rulers and governments they represented. Mr. Rowe then 
proposed the health in flattering terms of Mr. and Mrs. 
Lincoln. Mr. Lincoln thanked Mr. Rowe in a few well 
turned remarks, and the party left the dining-room to wit- 
ness a grand display of fireworks. A bamboo erection, 
sixty feet high, had been jolaced in front of the Consulate, 



TOUR AROUND THE WORLD. 227 

and after a number of rockets, Catherine wheels and color- 
ed lights of all kinds had been let off, a set piece displaying 
a pagoda was fired and a magnificent spectacle was pro- 
duced, winding up with a volley of rockets of all colors. 
At ten o'clock a reception was held at the Consulate, when 
the whole of the American and European community were 
presented to General Grant by Mr. Lincoln. 

The welcome given General Grant at Canton was 
even more enthusiastic, and, in point of numbers participat- 
ing, the most demonstrative, of any that had preceded it. 
There was so much ceremony during the General's visit 
that he had scarcely any opportunity to see the city, he 
having given himself but four days to see Canton, and had 
promised to return to Hong Kong to be present at a garden 
party to be given on Monday. 

General Grant and party sailed down the river from 
Canton over to Macao, within five hours' sail of Hong 
Kong. Macao is a colony of Portugal, and has been for 
more than three centuries. Owing to the serious illness of 
the Governor, there was no public reception. The Gov- 
ernor sent the most cordial greeting and welcome to 
Macao. The General landed and drove to a hotel. In the 
evening he strolled about, and in the morning visited the 
one site that gives Macao world-wide fame — the home 
and grotto of Camoens. Camoens was a soldier-poet, lost 
his sight in a conflict with the Moors, and, dissatisfied with 
the condition of affairs in Portugal, sailed for the East, and 
came in banishment to Macao. Here he wrote the 
" Lusiad." Senor Marques, a Portuguese resident, is now 
the owner of the Grotto. The General was shown over 
the grounds by the Senor, who, in honor of his coming, 
had built an arch over the entrance with the inscriotion, 
" Welcome to General Grant," The grounds surrounding 
the Grotto are beautiful and extensive, and for some time 
the party walked past the bamboo, the pimento, the coffee, 



228 GENERAL U. S. GRANt's 

and other tropical trees and plants. Then they ascended 
to a bluff overlooking the town and sea, and from that 
point they had a commanding view of the town, the ocean, 
and the rocky coasts of China. The Grotto of Camoens is 
enclosed with an iron railing, and a bust of the poet sur- 
mounts the spot where, according to tradition, he was wont 
to sit and muse and compose his immortal poems. General 
Grant inscribed his name in the visitors' book, and, accom- 
panied by Senor Marques, returned to the Ashuelot, which 
at once steamed for Hong Kong. Salutes were fired from 
the Portuguese battery as they left, and at two o'clock they 
landed in Hong Kong harbor, where Governor Hennessy 
met the General and took him to the Governmenf House.. 

General Grant's reception at Hong Kong was as brill- 
iant and enthusiastic as that at Canton, Disembarking, 
amid salutes from the Ashuelot and the Japanese corvette 
Nishin, they were received at a decorated landing-pier by 
Governor Hennessy and staff, members of the Legislative 
Council, heads of the military and naval services, a guard 
of honor, and a multitude of American, European and 
Chinese spectators. After introductions, they were escorted 
to the Government House. Many streets were adorned 
with flags, etc., and houses were illuminated. On May i 
General Grant called U2oon Consul Mosby and informally 
inspected localities of importance. On May 2 he held a 
public reception at the United States Consulate, and dined 
with Chief Justice Sir John Smalc. May 3 he attended a 
state dinner at Government House. The felicitous address 
of Governor Hennessy was warmly commended by the 
Americans. General Grant responded briefly and effect- 
ively, giving the sentiment of " Good will and alliance 
between Britons and Americans." 

The citizens of Hong Kong had arranged a garden 
party to be given General Grant on Monday, but the 
weather interfered, and the General was compelled to leave 



TOUR AROUXD THE WORLD. 239 

■on Monday, to keep engagements made for him in the 
North. He spent Sunday quietly with the Governor, and 
•on Monday morning took leave of his brilliant and hospita- 
ble host. Before leaving, the General, accompanied by the 
■Governor and our Consul, Colonel John S. Mosby, received 
a deputation of Chinese, who wished to present him with 
an address. The presentation took place in the parlors of 
the Government House, when the following address was 
read : — 

" To General Ulysses S. Grant, late President of the United Slates 
of America, and Commander-in-Chief of the United States Army. 

"Sir: On the occasion of your honoring Hong Kong 
"with your presence, we, the undersigned, on behalf of the 
Chinese communit}', approach you to give you a hearty 
welcome, and beg to present you an address expressive of 
our high esteem and respect for you. During your Presi- 
dency your geat name and noble deeds were known far 
and wide, and by the carrying out of a just policy you 
commanded admiration and respect from all classes of 
people under your rule. We have been delighted to find 
that in international questions you have shown a spirit of 
impartiality and fairness, treating Americans and foreigners 
alike, and the Chinese who have been trading in the United 
States have sung, and continue to sing, praises of the many 
good actions done by you while in office. 

" We had longed to see you, but, being far away, we 
were hitherto not permitted to realize our wish. Now 
that you have favored us with a visit we avail ourselves of 
the opportunity to present you with a scroll inscribed with 
these four words, "Benefit to Chinese People," which we 
hope may serve as a souvenir of your interview with the 
Chinese community of Hong Kong. 

"Signed by Lee Ting, Ho Amei, Lee Tuck Cheong, 
.and ninety others." 

General Grant said: — "Gentlemen, I am very happy to 



230 GENERAL U. S. GRANT'S 

meet so manv representatives of the Chinese community 
In Hong Kong, and for the kind words of your address 
accept my thanks. I have looked forward for a long time 
to my visit to China, and am joleased to see, as I have seen 
in Hong Kong, that the Chinese are a thrifty, industrious 
and intelligent people. I have no other wish than that 
between the two peoples there shall be harmony and the 
best relations, and in this spirit I accept your address and 
the beautiful memento which accompanies it, and thank you 
for your ^ood wishes." 

After giving the address the General and party, accom- 
panied by Governor Hennessy and wife and Colonel 
Mosby, took chairs and proceeded to the landing, to embark 
for the north. There was a guard of honor at the wharf, 
and all the foreign residents were present. As the General 
went on board the launch, hearty cheers were given, which 
were again and again repeated as he steamed into the bay. 
The Governor took his leave of General Grant on board 
the Ashuelot, and, as he left, the vessel fired a salute of sev- 
enteen guns in his honor, with the British flag at the fore. 

General Grant's trip along the coast of China was ex- 
ceptionally pleasant, so far as winds and waves were con- 
cerned. There was a monsoon blowing, but it was just 
enough to help along without disturbing the sea. Then 
it was a pleasure to come once more into cooler latitudes. 
Ever since they left Naples they had been under the sun, 
and nearly four months' battle with it had told upon them 
all. It was a luxury to tread the deck, and feel a cool 
breeze blowing from the north; to roll yourself in a blanket 
as you slept on deck; to look out warmer clothing, and' 
feel that life was something more than living in a Turkish 
bath. On the morning of the 13th they came to Svvatow. 

Swatow is one of the treaty ports thrown open to for- 
eigners under the treaty of Lord Elgin. Tt is at the mouth 
of the river Hau. The entrance to the river is striking in 



TOUR AROUND THE WORLD. 23 1 

point of scenery, and as they came in sight of the town all 
the Chinese forts saluted, and the shipping in the harbor 
dressed. C. C. Williams, Consular Agent, came on board 
to welcome the General, and in his company he landed, and 
spent an hour in threadmg the old Chinese town. The 
streets were narrow. While in Swatow the Chinese Gov- 
ernor called in state, and said that he had orders from the 
government to pay all possible attentions to General Grant. 
It was the custom of the country in making these calls to 
bring an offering, and, as nothing is more useful than food, 
he had brought a live sheep, six live chickens, six ducks 
and four hams. While the Governor was in conference 
with the General, the animals were outside. There was 
nothing for the General to do but to accept the homely 
offering, and present it to the servants. 

General Grant visited Amoy, another of the treaty 
ports open to foreign trade. It is on the Island of Hea- 
mun, at the mouth of the Dragon Rivei". . The scenery, as 
seen in approaching tlie island, is picturesque. All the bat- 
teries fired a salute, and there was a welcome from one of 
the United States men-of-war, the Ranger, commanded 
by Commander Boyd. Vice-Consul Stevens came on 
board, and welcomed the General to Amoy. He landed,, 
and strolled through the Chinese town, which was very old 
and dirty. At noon there was a large luncheon party, at 
which we met all the Consuls, the leading citizens, and the 
commanders of the Ashuelot and the Ranger. Among 
the guests was Sir Thomas Wade, the British Minister to 
Pekin. Mr. Stevens proposed the health of the General 
in a complimentary speech, and at five they went on board 
the Ranger to attend a reception. The Ranger, under the 
inspiration of the officers, was transformed into a fairy 
scene, and nothing could have been more kind and hospita- 
ble than the captain and officers. Mrs. Boyd assisted her 
husband in entertaining his guests. At seven o'clock, as 



232 GENERAL U. S. GRANT'S 

the sun was going down, they took their leave of the brill- 
iant gathering in the Ranger, and steamed to Shanghai. 
The following letters were exchanged between Gen- 
eral Grant and the King of Siam, the King of Hawaii and 
the Viceroy of Canton: 

Grand Palace, Bangkok, April 20, 1879. 
My Dear General Grant: 

I received your kind telegram on leaving Siam, and 
was very much pleased to hear that you were satisfied 
with your reception. 

Your reception was not all I could have wished, for I 
had not sufficient notice to enable me to prepare much that 
I desired to prepare, but the good nature of Your Excel- 
lency and Mrs. Grant has made you excuse the deficiencies. 

You will now pass on to wealthier cities and more 
powerful nations, but I depend on your not forgetting Siam, 
and from time to time I shall write to you, and hope to 
receive a few words in reply. 

I shall certainly never forget the pleasure your visit 
has given me, and shall highly prize the friendships thus 
inaugurated with Your Excellency and Mrs. Grant. 

I send my kind regards to Mr. Borie, wishing him long 
life, health and happiness, and with the same wish to your- 
self and Mrs. Grant and your family, 
I am your fiiithful friend, 

Chulalonkorn, King of Siam. 

To General Grant. 

United States Steamer Ashuelot, ) 
Near Shanghai, May 16, 1S79. \ 
To His Majesty The King of Siam. 

Dear Sir: Just before leaving Hong Kong for 
Shanghai, I received your very welcome letter of the 20th 
of April, and avail myself of the first opportunity of reply- 
ing. I can assure you that nothing more could have been 
done by Your Majesty and all those about you, to make the 
visit of myself and party pleasant and agreeable. Every 
one of us will retain the most pleasant recollections of our 
visit to Siam, and of the cordial reception we received 
from yourself and all with whom we were thrown in con- 
tact. 

I shall always be glad to hear from you, and to hear of 



TOUR AROUND THE WORLD. 233 

the prosperity and progress of the beautiful country over 
which you rule with so much justice and thought for the 
ruled. 

My party are all well, and join me in expression of 
highest regards for yourself and Cabinet, and wishes for 
long life, health and happiness to all of you, and peace and 
prosperity to Siam. Your friend, 

U. S. Grant. 

ToLANi Hall, Honolulu, Hawaiian Islands, Feb. 18, 1879, 
Dear Sir: The public newspapers give me the infor- 
mation that you are at present on your passage to the East, 
and are intending to return to the Unitd States across the 
Pacific Ocean. When I was in the United States during 
your Presidency, you manifested such interest in the pros- 
jDcrity of my kingdom, that I am proud to think it will not 
be uninteresting to you to observe the progress we have 
made, and the general state of the country. 

' I will not remind you that other travelers have found 
the natural features of the islands, and more especially their 
volcanic phenomena, interesting, and 1 entertain a hope 
that if you accept the invitation which I now tender to you 
to visit us, as a guest of myself and this nation, on your 
return to your native country, such a visit will be a pleas- 
ant rememberance to you. 

For myself, it will afford me a great gratification to 
receive and entertain you, and my people will be proud to 
do everything in their power to make your visit agreeable. 
I am your friend, Kalakua. 

To General U. S. Grant. 

United States Steamer Ashuelot, ) 
Near Shanghai, May i6, 1879. \ 
His Majesty, King Kalakaua. 

Dear Sir : On the eve of my departure from Hong 
Kong for Shanghai, China, I was put in possession of 
your very polite invitation of the iSth of February for 
me to visit your kingdom, and to be the guest of Your 
Majesty. I can assure you that it would afford me the 
greatest pleasure to accept your invitation if I could do so. 
I have always felt the greatest desire to visit the Hawaiian 
Islands, and cannot say positively yet that I may not be 
able to do so. But it will be impossible for me to give a 



234 GENERAL U. S. GRANT'S 

positive answer until I get to Japan and learn of the run- 
ning of the vessels between Yokohama and Honolulu, and 
between the latter place and San Francisco. 

I shall visit Pekin before going to Japan, and remain 
in the latter country a month or six weeks. As soon as it 
is determined whether I am to have the pleasure of visiting 
your most interesting country or not, I will inform you. 
Hoping that I may be able to go, Your friend, 

U. S. Grant. 
To His Excellency, the Late President: 

It has been a high honor and a source of the deepest 
satisfaction to inyself, the high provincial authorities and 
the gentry and people of Canton, that Your Excellency, 
whom we have so long desired to see, has been so good as 
to come among us. 

Upon learning from you of your early departure, while 
I dared not interfere to delay you, I had hoped, in company 
with my associates, to present my humble respects at the 
moment of your leaving. I refrained from doing so in 
obedience to your command. 

I have ventured to send a few trifles to your honored 
wife, which I hope she will be so kind as to accept. 

I trust that you both will have a prosperous journey 
throughout all your wa}'^, and that you both may be granted 
many years and abundant good. Should I ever be honored 
by my sovereign with a mission abroad, it will be my most 
devout prayer and earnest desire that I may meet you 
again. 

I respectfully wish you the fulness of peace. 

Liu Kun. 

United States Steamer Ashuelot, } 
Near Shanghai, China, May i6, 1S79. f 
Uis Excellency, the Viceroy of Kwangtung and Kwangiiai. 
Dear Sir : Before leaving Hong Kong for more ex- 
tended visits through the Celestial Empire, I was placed in 
jxissession of your very welcome letter giving expression 
to the best wishes of Your Excellency and of all the high 
oflicials in Canton for m3'sclf and mine. Since then it has 
been my good fortune to visit Swatow and Amoy, botli, I 
understand, imder Your Excellency's government, and have 
received at each tlie same distinguished reception accorded 
at Canton. Myself and party will carry with us from China 



TOUR AROUND THE WORLD. 335 

the most pleasant recollections of our visit to the country 
over which you preside, and of the hospitalities received at 
your hands. 

Mrs. Grant desires to thank you especially for the beau- 
tiful specimens of Chinese work which you presented to 
her. With the best wishes of myself and party for your 
health, long life and prosperity, and in hopes that we may 
meet again, I am your friend, 

U. S. Grant. 

General Grant's welcome at Shanghai was a fitting 
climax to the extraordinary reception he had received in 
China. The stor}^ of his two-days' residence here is a 
story of festivals and pageantry, culminating in the cele- 
bration and reception by the Governor and Council. As 
the General and party came to the spot selected for land- 
ing, the banks of the river were thronged with Chinamen, 
and at least one hundred thousand lined the bank. 

At three o'clock precisely the barge of the Ashuelot 
was manned, the American flag wab hoisted at the bow, 
and General Grant, accompanied by Mrs. Grant, Mr. Borie, 
Colonel Grant, Mr. Plolcombe, Acting Minister at Pekin; 
Mrs. Holcombe, Consul-General Bailey, and Dr. Keating, 
embarked. As the boat slowly pulled toward the shore 
the guns of the Ashuelot thundered out a national salute, 
while the other men-of-war manned the yards. In a few 
minutes the boat came to the landing, which was covered 
with scarlet cloth. Mr. Little, Chairman of the Municipal 
Council, and the committee, shook hands with the General, 
and the procession marched into the building. As General 
Grant entered, the audience rose and cheered heartily. On 
reaching the seat prepared for him he was presented to the 
Chinese Governor, who had come to do his part in the re- 
ception. The Governor was accompanied by a delegation 
of mandarins of high rank. The band played " Hail, 
Columbia," and after the music and cheering ceased, Mr. 
Little advanced and read the following: address: 



236 GENERAL U. S. GRANT's 

Shanghai, May 17, 1879. 
To General U. S. Grant. 

Sir: On behalf of this community I have the honor 
of welcoming you to Shanghai. In this the easternmost 
commercial settlement of the continent the lines that unite 
the old and new worlds meet, and here we on the eastern 
edge of the oldest empire in the world appropriately greet 
an illustrious representative of the great Republic of the 
New World. 

Devoted as we are to trade, we have little to show that 
is of interest to the ordinary traveler. But as the head for 
two periods of a great cosmopolitan, commercial state, we 
trust that you will find something to interest you in this 
small commercial republic, itself as cosmopolitan as the 
great country from which you come. 

We thank you for coming to visit us. We trust that 
you will find that we have done all in our power to make 
your visit pleasant. We wish for you a future as happy 
and distinguished as your past, and that after you leave us 
you will remember with pleasure this little band of self- 
governed representatives of all States, united in peaceful 
pursuits, and furthering, we believe, not without success, 
the cause of progress in this country. 

I have the honor to be, sir, on behalf of the foreign 
community of Shanghai, your obedient servant, 

R. W. Little, 
Chairman of the Committee. 

After a moment's pause, General Grant, speaking in a 
low, conversational tone of voice, said : 

"Ladies and Gentlemen: — I am very much obliged 
to you for the hearty welcome which you have paid me, 
and I must say that I have been a little surprised, and 
agreeably surprised. I have now been a short time in the 
country of which Shanghai forms so important a part in a 
commercial way, and I have seen much to interest me and 
much to instruct me. I wish I had known ten years ago 
what I have lately learned. I hope to carry back to my 
country a report of all I have seen in this part of the world, 
for it will be of interest and possibly of great use. I thank 
you again for the hearty welcome you have given me." 



TOUR AROUND THE WORLD. 237 

The speech over, there were other presentations, and 
General Grant was escorted to his carriage. There was a 
guard of honor composed of sailors and marines from the 
American and French men-of-war, and the Volunteer 
Rifles of Shanghai. 

On Monday night General Grant went to the house of 
Mr. Cameron to witness a torchlight procession and illumi- 
nation in his honor. The town had been agog all day pre- 
paring for the illumination. 

The two occasions on which Shanghai had exerted herself 
to welcome and honor a guest, were on the visits of the 
Duke of Edinburgh and the Grand Duke Alexis. The 
display in honor of General Grant far surpassed these, and 
what made it so agreeable was the heartiness with which 
English, Americans, French, Germans and Chinese all 
united. The scene as the General drove out into the open 
street was bewildering in its beauty. Wherever you looked 
was a blaze of light and fire, of rockets careering in the 
air, of Roman lights and every variety of fire. The ships 
in the harbor were a blaze of color, and looked as if they 
were pieces of fireworks. The lines of the masts, the rig- 
ging and the hulls were traced in flames. The Monocacy 
was very beautiful, every line from the bow to the topmast 
and anchor chain hung with Japanese lanterns. This grace- 
ful, blending mass of color thrown upon the black evening 
sky was majestic, and gave an idea of a beauty in fire 
hitherto unknown to the visitors. " Never before," said the 
morning journal — " has there been such a blaze of gas 
and candles seen in vShanghai." 

At ten the General returned to the house of Mr. 
Cameron, and from there reviewed the firemen's procession. 
Each engine was preceded by a band, which played Ameri- 
can airs. After the procession passed and repassed, there 
was a reception in Mr. Cameron's house, and at midnight 
the General drove home to the Consulate. So came to an 



l^S GENERAL U. S. GRANT's 

ind a wonderful day — one of the most wonderful in the 
history of General Grant's tour around the world. 

As the Ashuelot came into the Peiho River, the forts 
fired twenty-one guns, and all the troops were paraded. A 
Chinese gunboat was awaiting, bearing Judge Denny, our 
Consul, and Mr. Dillon, French Consul and Dean of the 
Consular corps. As General Grant and party came near 
Tientsin the scene was imposing. Wherever they passed 
a fort twenty-one guns were fired. All the junks and ves- 
sels were dressed in bunting. A fleet of Chinese gunboats 
formed in line, and each vessel manned yards. The boom- 
ing of the cannon, the waving of the flags, the manned 
yards, the multitude that lined the banks, the fleet of junks 
massed together and covered with curious lookers-on, the 
stately Ashuelot, carrying the American flag at the fore, 
towering high above the slender Chinese vessels and an- 
swering salutes gun for gun; the noise, the smoke, the glit- 
ter of arms, the blending and waving of banners and flags 
which lined the forts and the rigging like a fringe — aU 
combined to form one oi the most vivid and imposing 
pageants of their journey. The General stood on the 
quarter-deck, with Commander Johnson, Mr. Holcombe, 
Judge Denny and Mr. Dillon, making acknowledgments 
by raising his hat as he passed each ship. As they came 
near the landing, the yacht of the Viceroy, carrying his 
flag, steamed toward them, and as soon as their anchor 
found its place hauled alongside. First came two mandarins 
carrying the Viceroy's cai"d. General Grant stood at the 
gangway, accompanied by the officers of the ship, and as 
the Viceroy stepped over the side of the Ashuelot the yards 
were manned and a salute was fired. Judge Denny, ad- 
vancing, met the Viceroy and presented him to General 
Grant as the great soldier and statesman of China. The 
Viceroy presented the members of his suite, and the Gen- 
eral, taking his arm, led him to the upper deck, where the 



TOUR AROUND THE WORLD. 239 

two Generals sat in conversation for some time, while tea 
and cigars and wine were passed around in approved 
Chinese fashion. 

The great Viceroy, perhaps to-day the most powerful 
subject in China, had taken tlie deepest interest in the coming 
of General Grant. He was of the same age as the Gen- 
eral. They won their victories at the same time, the South- 
ern rebellion ending in April, the Taeping rebellion in 
July, 1865. While General Grant was making his progress 
in India, the Viceroy followed his movements, and had all 
the particulars of thfc journey translated. As soon as the 
General reached Hong Kong, our Consul, Judge Denny, 
conveyed a welcome from the Viceroy. When questions 
were raised as to the reception of the General in Tientsin, 
the Viceroy ended the matter by decianng mat no honor 
should be wanting to the General, and that he himself 
would be the first Chinaman to greet him in Tientsin and 
welcome him to the chief province of the empire. Between 
General Grant and the Viceroy friendly relations grew up, 
and while in Tientsin they saw a great deal of each other. 
The Viceroy had said that he did not care merely to look 
at, or even to make his acquaintance, but to know him well 
and talk with him. The Viceroy is known among the 
most advanced school of Chinese statesmen, anxious co 
introduce all the improvements of the Western world, to 
strengthen and develop China. This subject so dear to 
him was one that the General has, whenever he has met 
Chinese statesmen, tried to impress upon their minds — the 
necessity of developing their country, and of doing it them- 
selves. 

The General formed a high opinion of the Viceroy 
as a statesman of resolute and far-seeing character. This 
opinion was formed after many conversations — official, 
ceremonial and personal. The visit of the Viceroy to the 
General was returned next day in great pomp. There was 



240 GENERAL U. S, GRANT S 

a marine guard from the Ashuelot. They went to the 
viceregal palace in the Viceroj^'s yacht, and as they steamed 
up the river every foot of ground, every spot on the junks, 
vv^as covered w^ith people. At the landing, troops were 
drawn up. A chair lined with yellow silk, such a chair as 
is only used by the Emperor, was awaiting the General. 
As far as the eye could reach, the multitude stood expect- 
ant and gazing, and they went to the j^alace through a line 
of troops, who stood with arms at a present. Amid the 
firing of guns, the beating of gongs, the procession slowly 
marched to the palace door. The Viceroy, surrounded by 
his mandarins and attendants, welcomed the General. At 
the close of the uiterview General Grant and the Viceroy sat 
for a photograph. This picture Li-Hung Chang svished 
to preserve as a memento of the General's visit, and it was 
taken in one of the palace rooms. A day or two later there 
was a ceremonial dinner given in a temple. The hour was 
noon, and the Viceroy invited several guests to meet the 
General. The dinner was a stupendous, princely affair, 
containing all the best points of Chinese and European 
cookery, and, although the hour was noon, the afternoon 
had far gone when it came to an end. 

Before it ended, Mr. Detring, on behalf of the Viceroy, 
arose and read this speech : 

"Gentlemen: It has given me great pleasure to 
welcome you as my guests to-day, more especially as you 
aid me in showing honor to the distinguished man who is 
now with us. General Grant's eminent talents as a sol- 
dier and a statesman, and his popularity while chief ruler 
of a great country, are known to us all. I think it may be 
said of him now, as it was said of Washington a century 
ago, that he is " first in war, first in peace, and first in the 
hearts of his countrymen." Ilis fame, and the admiration 
and respect it excites, arc not confined to his own country, 
as the events of his present tour around the world will 



TOUR AROUND THE WORLD. 24I 

prove, and China should not be thought unwilHng to wel- 
come such a visitor. I thank the General for the honor he 
has conferred upon me. I thank you all, gentlemen, for 
the pleasure you have given me to-day, and I now ask you 
to join me in drinking the health of General Grant, ana 
wishing him increasing fame and prosperity." 

The Viceroy and all his guests arose and remained 
standing while Mr. Detring read this speech. At the close, 
the Viceroy lifted a glass of wine, and, bowing to the Gen- 
eral, drank the toast. General Grant then arose and said: 

"Your Excellency and Gentlemen of the 
Consular Corps: I am very much obliged to you for 
the welcome I have received in Tientsin, which is only a 
repetition of the kindness shown to me by the representa- 
tives of all nations since I came within the coasts of China. 
I am grateful to the Viceroy for the especial consideration 
which I have received at his hands. His history as a sol- 
dier and statesman of the Chinese Empire has been known 
to me, as it has been known to all at home who have fol- 
lowed Chinese affairs, for a quarter of a century. I am 
glad to meet one who has done such great service to his 
country. My visit to China has been full of interest. I 
have learned a great deal of the civilization, the manners, 
the achievements, and the industry of the Chinese people, 
and I shall leave the countr}^ with feelings of friendship 
toward them, and a desire that they may be brought into 
relations of the closest commercial alliance and intercourse 
with the other nations. I trust that the Viceroy will some 
time find it in his power to visit my country, when I shall 
be proud to return, as far as I can, the hospitality I have 
received from him. Again thanking your Excellency for 
your reception, and you, gentlemen of the Consular corps, 
for your kindness, I ask you to join with me in a toast to 
the prosperity of China and the health of the Viceroy." 

When this speech was ended there was tea, and then 
16 



242 GENERAL U. S. GRANT S 

came cigars. The Viceroy had arranged for a photograph 
of the whole dinner party. So their portraits were taken 
in the room where they had dined, the Viceroy and tlie 
General sitting in the middle, beside a small tea table. On 
the side of the General were the European, on that of the 
Vicei"oy the Chinese, members of the party. This func- 
tion over, they returned to their yacht amid the same cere- 
monies as those which attended their coming, and steamed 
back to the Consulate, the river still lined with thousands 
of Chinamen. 

There was Q.fctc at the French Consulate — it was made 
brilliant by a display of fireworks and also of jugglery; 
the Viceroy, the General and the ladies of the party sitting 
on the balcony and watching the performers ; at midnight 
\\\Qfctc ended, and, considering the small colony and the 
resources possible to so limited a company, was a complete 
success. After enjoying a delightful series of receptions, 
dinners and jTt'/e^, the General and party bid farewell to 
Tientsin, and embarked m a large, clumsy boat, called a 
mandarin's boat, for Pekin, one hundred and fifty miles 
from Tientsin. After a tiresome journey, on the third 
day their boats tied up to the bank at the village of Tung 
Chow. At this point the party were carried in chairs to 
Pekin, arriving at midday. After a severe and uncomfort- 
able ride of five hours they entered the Legation, and met 
a grateful and gracious welcome. 

On the evening of their arrival the American residents 
in Pekin called in a body on the General to welcome him 
and read an address. Dinner over, the General and party 
entered the Legation parlors and were presented to the 
small colony of the favored people who have pitched their 
tents in Pekin. The members of this colony are mission- 
aries, meml^ers of the customs staff, diplomatists and one or 
two who have claims or schemes for the consideration of the 
Chinese tTovernment. After beinir introduced to the Gen- 



TOUR AROUND THE WORLD. 243 

eval and j^arty, Dr. Martin, the President of thejChinese 
English University, stepped forward and read the following 
address : 

"Sir: Twenty years ago the American flag for the 
first time entered the gates of this ancient capital. For 
the greater part of that time your countrymen have been 
residing here under its protecting folds, and it is with feel- 
ings of no ordinary type that we gather ourselves beneath 
its shadow this day to welcome your arrival ; because to 
you, sir, under God, it is due that its azure field had not 
been rent in fragments and its golden stars scattered to the 
winds of heaven. Having borne that banner through a 
career of victory which finds few parallels in the page of 
history, it was your high privilege to gather around it in 
a new cemented union the long discordant members of our 
national family. Occupying the most exalted position to 
which it was possible for you to be elevated by the voice 
of a grateful people, your strength was in the justice and 
moderation of your administration, a force more potent 
than that of armed cohorts. After conferring on our 
country these inestimable benefits, as its leader in war and 
its guide in the paths of peace, we reflect with pride that 
you have shown the world how a great man can descend 
from a lofty station and yet carry with him the homage of 
his people and the admiration of mankind. As you travel 
from land to land, everywhere welcomed as the citizen of 
a wider commonwealth than that of our native country, we 
cannot forget that your visits to their shores possess an in- 
ternational character of which it is impossible to divest 
them. You are honored as the highest representative of 
our country who has ever gone beyond her borders, and 
America is the more respected for having given birth to 
such a son. Your presence here to-day directs the atten- 
tion of this venerable empire to the great republic from 
which you come. It will also have the effect of turning 



244 GENERAL U. S. GRANT S 

the eyes of our countrymen toward the teeming millions of 
Eastern^ Asia; and fervently do we trust that it will help 
to impress them with the obligations of justice and human- 
ity in their dealings with the people of China. Your 
antecedents, sir, leave us in no doubt as to the policy that 
would meet your approval. Hoping that your influence 
may contribute to the adjustment of difficulties which 
threaten to react so disastrously on American interests in 
China, and that thereby you will add another to the many 
laurels that crown your brow, we hail your visit as both op- 
portune and auspicious, and again with one heart we bid 
you welcome to the capital of China. 

«W. A. P. Martin, H. Blodget, D. C. McCoy, H. B. 
Morse, C. C. Moreno, J. H. Pyke, W. F. Walker, H. H. 
Lowry, J. H. Roberts, W. C. Noble, Chester Holcombe. 
'■'■Pekin, June 3, iSygP 

The General, in a quiet, conversational tone, said he was 
always glad to meet his fellow countrymen, and the kind 
words in which he had been welcomed added to the pleas- 
ure which such a meeting afforded in Pekin. The Ameri- 
cans were a wonderful people, he said, smiling, for you 
found them everywhere, even here in this distant and in- 
accessible capital. He was especially pleased with the 
allusion in the address to the fact that in America a career 
was possible to the humblest station in life. His own career 
was one of the best examples of the possibilities open to 
any man and every man at home. That feature in America 
he was proud to recognize, for it was one of the golden 
principles of our government. The General again thanked 
the delegation for their kindness, wished them all pros- 
perity in their labors in Cliina, and a happy return to their 
homes, where he hoped some day to meet them. 

Within an hour after the General's arrival, he was 
waited upon by the members of the Cabinet, who came in 
a body, accom])anicd by the military and civil Governors of 



TOUR AROUND THE WORLD. 



245 



Pekin. These arc the highest officials in China, men of 
grace and stately demeanor. They were received in Chi- 
nese fashion, seated around a tahle covered with sweet- 
meats, and served with tea. The first Secretary brought 
with him the card of Prince Kung, the Prince Regent of 
the Empire, and said that His Imperial Highness had 
charged him to present all kind wishes to General Grant, 
and to express the hope that the trip in China had been 
pleasant. The Secretary also said that, as soon as the 
Prince Regent heard from the Chinese Minister in Paris 
that General Grant was coming to China, he sent orders to 
the officials to receive him with due honor. The General 
said that he had received nothing but honor and courtesy 
from China, and this answer pleased the Secretary, who said 
he would be happy to carry it to the Prince Regent. 

General Grant did not ask an audience of the Emperor. 
The Emperor is a child seven years of age, at his books, 
not in good health, and under the care of two old ladies, 
called the Empresses. When the Chinese Minister in Paris 
spoke to General Grant about audience, and his regret that 
the sovereign of China was not of age that he might per- 
sonally entertain the ex-President, the General said he 
hoped no question of audience would be raised. He had 
no personal curiosity to see the Emperor, and thei'e could 
be no useful object in conversing with a child. 

As soon as General Grant arrived at Pekin, he was 
met by the Secretary of State, who brought the card of 
Prince Kung, and said His Imperial Highness would be 
glad to see General Grant at any time. The General named 
the succeeding day, at three. The General and party left the 
Legation at half past two. 

The way to the Yamen was over dirty roads, and through 
a disagreeable part of the town, the day being warm. When 
they came to the court-yard of the Yamen, the Secretaries 
and a group of mandarins received the General and his 



346 GENERAL U. S, GRANt's 

party, and escorted them into the inner court. Prince 
Kung, who was standing at the door, with a group of high 
officers, advanced and saluted the General, and said a few 
words of welcome, which were translated by Mr. Hol- 
combe, the acting Minister. 

The Prince saluted General Grant in Tartar fashion, 
looking at him for a moment with an earnest, curious gaze, 
like one who had formed an idea of some kind and was 
anxious to see how far his ideal had been realized. The 
sun was beating down, and the party passed into a large, 
plainly furnished room, where was a table laden with Chi- 
nese food. The Prince, sitting down at the centre, gave 
General Grant the seat at his left, the post of honor in 
China. He then took up the cards, one by one, which had 
been written in Chinese characters on red paper, and asked 
Mr. Holcombe for the name and station of each member 
of General Grant's suite. 

As princes go, few are more celebrated than Prince 
Kung. He is a Prince of the imperial house of China, 
brother of the late Emperor and uncle of the present. In 
appearance the Prince is of middle stature, with a sharp, 
narrow face, a high forehead — made more prominent by 
the Chinese custom of shaving the forehead — and a 
changing, evanescent expression of countenance. He has 
been at the head of the Chinese government since the 
English invasion and the burning of the Summer Palace. 
He was the only Prince who remained at his post at that 
time, and consequently when the peace came it devolved 
upon him to make it. This negotiation gave him a 
European celebrity, and a knowledge of Europeans that 
was of advantage. European powers have preferred to 
keep in power a prince with whom they have made 
treaties before. In the politics of China, Prince Kung has 
shown courage and ability. When the Emperor, his 
brother, died, in 1861, a council was formed composed of 



TOUR AROUND THE WORLD. 247 

princes and noblemen of high rank. This council claimed 
to sit by the will of the deceased Emperor. The inspiring 
element was hostility to foreigners. Between this Regency 
and the Prince there was war. The Emperor was a 
child — his own nephew — just as the present Emperor is a 
child. Suddenly a decree coming from the child-Emperor 
was read, dismissing the Regency, making the Dowager 
Empress Regent, and giving the power to Prince Kung. 
This decree Prince Kung enforced with vigor, decision 
and success. He arrested the leading members of the 
Regency, charged them with having forged the will under 
which they claimed the Regency, and sentenced three of 
them to death. Two of the regents were permitted to 
commit suicide, but the other was beheaded. From that 
day, under the Empresses, Prince Kung has been the ruler 
of China. 

General Grant could not remain long enough in the 
Yamen to finish the dinner, as he had an engagement to 
visit the college for the teaching of an English education 
to young Chinese. This institution is under the direction 
of Dr. Martin, an American, and the buildings adjoin the 
Yamen. Consequently, on taking leave of the Prince, 
who said he would call and see the General at the Lega- 
tion, they walked a few steps, and were escorted into the 
classroom of the College. Doctor Martin presented Gen- 
eral Grant to the students and professors, and one of the 
students read the following address: 

"General U. S. Grant, ex 'President of the United States: 
"Sir: We have long heard your name, but never 
dreamed that we would have an opportunity to look on 
your face. Formerly the people of your Southern States 
rebelled against your government and nearly obtained pos- 
session of the land, but, through your ability in leading the 
national forces, the rebel chief was captured and the coun- 
try tranquilized. Having commanded a million of men 



248 GENERAL U. S. GRANt's 

and survived a hundred battles, your merit was recognized 
as the highest in your own land, and your name became 
known in every quarter of the globe. Raised to the 
Presidency by the voice of a grateful people, you laid 
aside the arts of war and sought only to achieve the victo- 
ries of peace. The j^eople enjoyed tranquility, commerce 
flourished, manufactures revived, and the whole nation 
daily became more wealthy and powerful. Your achieve- 
ments as a civil ruler are equally great with your military 
triumphs. Now that you have resigned the Presidency, 
you employ your leisure in visiting different parts of the 
world, and the people of all nations and all ranks welcome 
your arrival. It requires a fame like yours to produce 
effects like these. We, the students of this college, are 
very limited in our attainments, but all men love the wise 
and respect the virtuous. We, therefore, feel honored by 
this opportunity of standing in your presence. It is our 
sincere hope that another term of the Presidency may come 
to you, not only that your own nation may be benefited, 
but that our countrymen resident in America may enjoy 
the blessings of your protection. 

" Wang Fengtsar, tutor in Mathematics. 

"Wen Hsii, tutor in English. 

"Na San, tutor in English. 
"On behalf of the students of Tunguon College. 
" K-wang Sit, jy. 4 ni. 16 d. — jfune ^, ^^79-^^ 
The General, in response, said : 

"Gentlemen: I am much obliged to you for your 
welcome and for the compliments you jDay me. I am glad 
to meet you and see in the capital of this vast and ancient 
empire an institution of learning based upon English 
principles, and in which you can learn the English 
language. I have been struck with nothing so much in 
my tour around the world as with the fact that the progress 
of civilization — of our modern civilization — is marked by 



TOUR AROUND THE WORLD. 249 

the progress of the Enghsh tongue. I rejoice in this fact, 
and I rejoice in your efforts to attain a Icnowledge of En- 
ghsh speech and all that such a knowledge must convey. 
You have my warmest wishes for your success in this and 
in all your undertakings, and my renewed thanks for the 
honor you have shown me." 

Prince Kung Avas punctual in his return of the call of 
General Grant. He came to the Legation in his chair, and 
was received by General Grant in the parlors of the Lega- 
tion. Several officers from the Richmond happened to be 
in Pekin on a holiday, and the General invited them, as 
well as the officers of the Ashuelot, who were at the Lega- 
tion, to receive the Prince. As all the officers were in full 
uniform, the reception of the Prince became almost an im- 
posing affair. The Prince was accompanied by the Grand 
Secretaries, and, as soon as he was presented to the mem- 
bers of the General's party, he was led into the dining- 
room, and they all sat around a table, and were given tea 
and sweetmeats and champagne. During this visit there 
■occurred a remarkable conversation, which may not be 
without its effect upon the politics of the East. The gen- 
eral features of this conversation were no less than a prop- 
osition to utilize the services of General Grant as a peace- 
maker. 

In the form of asking General Grant's "advice," and 
under cover of an anxiety to confer with him, and with a 
graceful apology for talking business to a visitor out of the 
harness, this adroit diplomatist engaged in conversation 
on the subject of the seizure of the Loochoo Islands by 
Japan, and the consequent disturbance of friendly relations 
between Japan and China. " I feel that I should apologize 
even for the reference," said the Prince, "which I would 
not have ventured upon, but for our conviction that one who 
has had so high a place in determining the affairs of the 
world can have no higher interest than that of furthering 



250 GENERAL U. S. GRANT S 

peace and justice." There can be no handsomer way than 
this to compel attention and demand assistance; and, when 
one is tiius pressed by a man of Prince Kung's dignity — by 
the ruler of the greatest aggregation of human creatures of 
which history has any record — the generous mind perceives 
that a grand condescension thus presented as a request can- 
not be put aside. General Grant's own succinct statement 
of the spirit of the foreign policy of the American govern- 
ment was also such as to exhibit his sympathy with this 
fine conception, that a desire to aid the progress of justice 
in the world should be the first interest of a gentleman in 
whatever circumstances he might be called upon — a senti- 
ment of knight errantry in statesmanship. Our foreign 
policy, the General said, is made up of " fair play, con- 
sideration for the rights of others, respect for intei-national 
law," which is a handy adaptation to national circumstances 
of the three jDoints laid down by Justinian's lawyers as 
sufficient to properly regulate every human life — '•'•honeste 
vivere, alterum non Icedere^ suum cuique tribuere^'' Between 
two men of great experience, accustomed to deal in the great 
concerns of human life, and whose minds have taken color 
from their great functions, it is not strange to find this 
ready sympathy on such a topic, and the world will not be 
astonished to hear that General Grant straightforwardly 
said: "I told the Viceroy at Tientsin that everything I 
could do in the interest of j^eace was my duty and my jpleas- 
ure. I can conceive of no higher office for any man." 

The Prince, when he had finished his conversation, 
drew toward him a glass of champagne, and, addressing 
Mr. Holcombe, said he wished to again express to Gen- 
eral Grant the honor felt by the Chinese government at 
having received this visit. He made special inquiries as to 
when the General would leave, the hour of his departure, 
the ways and periods of his journey. He asked whether 
there was anything wanting to complete the hapjDiness of 



TOUR AROUND T]IE WORLD. 251 

the General, or show the honor hi which he had been held 
by China. In taking his leave, he wished to drink espe- 
cially the health of General Grant, to wish him a prosper- 
ous voyage, and long and honorable years on his return 
home. This sentiment the General returned, and, rising, 
led the way to the door, where the-rhair of the Prince and 
the bearers were in waiting. The other Ministers accom- 
panied the Prince, and, on taking leave, saluted the Gen- 
eral in the ceremonious Chinese style. The Prince entered 
his chair, and was snatched up and carried away by his 
bearers, the guard hurriedly mounting and riding after. 

General Grant and party returned to Tientsin by boat, 
and immediately upon his landing received a message from 
the Viceroy that he was on his way to call. The General 
received the Viceroy at the house of Consul Denny. After 
a warm welcome, together they 2:)assed into an inner room 
and received tea and sweetmeats in Chinese fashion. The 
Viceroy had received instructions from the Prince Regent 
to continue the conversation with General Grant on the 
matter of the issue with Japan. After a long and intensely 
interesting conversation, and a thorough analysis of the 
matters at issue, the Viceroy pressed every point to influence 
the General to act as mediator, laying special stress upon 
the name and influence of General Grant. The General 
thought it was a diplomatic question, and could be settled 
through the good ofiices of ministers of other nations. 
The Viceroy claimed that it was not a diplomatic question,, 
as Japan had refused to notice any communication from 
China; consequently there was no chance of reaching a 
solution by the ordinary methods of diplomacy. How can 
you talk to ministers and governments about matters which 
they will not discuss? But when a man like General Grant 
comes to China and Japan, he comes with an authority 
which gives him power to make peace. In the interest of 
peace, China asks the General to interest himself. Chinij 



252 GENERAL U. S. GKANt's 

cannot consent to the position Japan has taken. On that 
j^oint there is no indecision in the councils of the govern- 
ment. The Viceroy had no fear of Japan or of the con- 
sequences of any conflict which Japan would force upon 
China. 

General Grant said his hope and belief were that the 
difficulty would end peacefully and honorably. He appre- 
ciated the compliment paid him by the Chinese govern- 
ment. The Viceroy and Prince Kung overrated his power, 
but not his wish, to preserve peace, and especially to prevent 
such a deplorable thing as a war between China and Japan. 
When he reached Japan he would confer with Mr, Bing- 
ham and see how the matter stood. He would study the 
Japanese case as carefully as he proposed studying the 
Chinese case. He would, if possible, confer with the Jap- 
anese authorities. What his opinion would be when he 
heard both sides he could not anticipate. If the question 
took such a shape that, with advantage to the cause of peace 
and without interfering with the wishes of his own gov- 
ernment, he could advise or aid in a solution, he would be 
happy, and, as he remarked to Prince Kung, this happiness 
would not be diminished if in doing so his action did not 
disappoint the Chinese government. So came to an end 
an interesting and extraordinary conversation. 

Pleasant, notably, were General Grant and party's rela- 
tions with the great Viceroy, whose kindness seemed to 
grow with every hour, and to tax itself for new forms in 
which to form expression. Li-Hung Chang's reception of 
General Grant was as notable an event in the utter setting 
aside of precedents and traditions as can be found in the 
recent history of China. It required a great man, who 
could afford to be progressive and independent, to do it. 

There was probably nothing more notable than the en- 
tertainment given to Mrs. Grant by the wife of the Vice- 
roy, on the last night of the General's stay in Tientsin. 



TOUR AROUND THE WORLD. 



253 



The principal European ladies in the colony were invited. 
Some of these ladies had lived in Tientsin for years, and 
had never seen the wife of the Viceroy — had never seen 
him except through the hlinds of the window of his chair. 
The announcement that the Viceroy had really invited 
Mrs. Grant to meet his wife, and European ladies to be in 
the company, was even a more transcendent event than the 
presence of General Grant. Societ}- rang with a discus- 
sion of the question which, since Mother Eve introduced it 
to the attention of her husband, has been the absorbing 
theme of civilization — what shall wc wear? The ques- 
tion was finally decided in favor of the resources of civiliza- 
tion. The ladies went in all the glory of French fashion 
and taste. They came back from the viceregal din- 
ner at about eleven at night, and General Grant and partv 
went immediately on board the Ashuclot. Here the fare- 
wells to kind friends were spoken, and it was with sincere 
regret that they said farewell. The Viceroy had sent word 
that he would not take his leave of General Grant until he 
was on the border of his dominions and out at sea. He 
had gone on ahead in his yacht, and, with a fleet of gun- 
boats, would await the General at the mouth of the river, 
and accompany him on board the Richmond. Orders had 
been given that the forts should fire salutps, and that the 
troops should parade, and the vessels dress with flags. 
About eleven o'clock in the morning the Ashuelot came 
up with the viceregal fleet, at anchor imder the guns of 
the Waku forts. As they passed, every vessel manned 
^•ards, and all their guns and the guns of the fort thundered 
a farewell. Three miles out the Richmond was sighted, 
and the Ashuelot steamed direct toward her, and in a shoi't 
time the Ashuelot swung around amid the thunder of the 
guns of the Richmond. At noon the General passed over 
the sides of the Richmond, and was received by another 



254 GENERAL U. S. GRANT'S 

salute. After the General had been received, the ship's 
barge was sent to the Viceroy's boat, and in a few min- 
utes returned with Li-Hung Chang. General Grant re- 
ceived the Viceroy, and again the yards were manned, and 
a salute of nineteen guns was fired. 

The Viceroy and his suite were shown into the cabin. 
Tea was served, and, Li-Hung Chang having expressed a 
desire to see the vessel, he was taken into every part, gave 
its whole arrangement, and especially the guns, a minute 
inspection. This lasted for an hour, and the Viceroy re- 
turned to the cabin to take his leave. He seemed loath to 
go, and remained in conversation for some time. General 
Grant expressed his deep sense of the honor which had 
been done him, his pleasure at having met the Viceroy. 
He urged the Viceroy to make a visit to the United States, 
and in a few earnest phrases repeated his hope that the 
statesmen of China would persevere in a policy which 
brought them nearer to our civilization. The Viceroy was 
friendly, ahnost affectionate. He hoped that Genera] 
Grant would not forget nun; that he would like to meet 
the General now and then, and if China needed the Gen- 
eral's counsel he would send it. He feared he could not 
visit foreign lands, and regretted that he had not done so 
in earlier years. He spoke of the friendship of the United 
States as dear to China, and again commended to the Gen- 
eral and the American people the Chinese who had gone 
to America. It made his heart sore to hear of their ill 
usage, and he depended upon the justice and honor of our 
government for their protection. He again alluded to thfe 
Loochoo question with Japan, and begged General Grant 
would speak to the Japanese Emperor, and in securing jus- 
tice remove a cloud from Asia which threw an ominous 
shadow over the East. The General bade the Viceroy fare- 
well, and said he would not forget what had been said, and 



TOUR AROUND THE WORLD. 255 

that he would always think of the Viceroy with friendship 
and esteem. So they parted, Li-Hung Chang departing 
amid the roar of our cannon and the manning of the 
yards, while the Richmond slowly pushed her prow into 
the rippling waves and steamed along to Japan. 



CHAPTER XVIII. 



GENERAL GRANT IN JAPAN. 

General Grant and party arrived at Nagasaki on June 
21, on the United States steamer Richmond, accompanied 
by the Ashuelot, the latter bringing Judge Denny, Consul 
at Tientsin, and other friends from China. There was no 
formal demonstration by foreign residents, further than an 
address of welcome by the committee of thirteen, chosen 
to represent all alien nationalities. Frequent entertainments 
were given by the Japanese. 

The Governor of the province gave a state dinner on 
the evening of the 23d of June, served in French fashion; 
one that in its details would have done no discredit to the 
restaurants in Paris. To this dinner the Governor asked 
Captain Benham, of the Richmond; Commander Johnson^ 
of the Ashuelot, and Lieutenant-Commander Clarke. At 
the close. His Excellency Utsumi Tadakatsu arose and 
said: 

"General Grant and Gentlemen: After a two- 
years' tour through many lands, Nagasaki has been honored 
by a visit from the ex-President of the United States. 
Nagasaki is situated on the western shore of this Empire, 
and how fortunate it is that I, in my official capacity as 
Governor of Nagasaki, can greet and welcome you, sir, as 
you land for the first time on the soil of Japan. Many 
years ago, honored sn*, I learned to appreciate your great 
services, and during a visit to the United States I was filled 
with an ardent desire to learn moie of your illustrious deeds. 



TOUR AUOUND THE WORLD. 257 

You were then the President of the United States, and 
little then did I anticipate that I should be the first Governor 
to receive you in Japan. Words cannot express my feel- 
ings. Nagasaki is so far from the seat of government that 
I fear you cannot have matters arranged to your satisfac- 
tion. It is my earnest wish that you and Mrs. Grant may 
safely travel through Japan and enjoy the visit." 

This address was spoken in Japanese. At its close an 
interpreter, who stood behind His Excellency during its 
delivery, advanced and read the above translation. When 
the Governor finished, General Grant arose and said: 

"Your Excellency, Ladies and Gentlemen: 
You have here to-night several Americans who have the 
talent of speech, and who could make an eloquent response 
to the address in which my health is proposed. I have no 
such gift, and I never lamented its absence more than now, 
when there is so much that I want to say about your coun- 
try, your people and your progress. I have not been an 
inattentive observer of that progress, and in America we 
have been favored with accounts of it from my distinguished 
friend, whom you all know as the friend of Japan, and 
whom it was my privilege to send as Minister — I mean 
Judge Bingham. The spirit which has actuated the mis- 
sion of Judge Bingham — the spirit of sympathy, support 
and conciliation — not only expressed my own sentiments, 
but those of America. America has much to gain in the 
East — no nation has grc^iter interests — but America has 
nothing to gain except what comes from the cheerful ac- 
quiescence of the Eastern people, and insures them as 
much benefit as it does us. I should be ashamed of my 
country if its relations with other nations, and especially 
with these ancient and most interesting empires in the East, 
were based upon any other idea. We have rejoiced over 
your progress. We have watched you step by step. We 
have followed the unfolding of your old civilization, and its 
17 



2^8 GENERAL U. S. GRANT's 

absorbing tbe new. Vou bave bad our profound sympatby in 
that work, our sympathy in the troubles which came with it, 
and our friendship. I hope that it may continue — that it 
may long continue. As I have said, America has great 
interests in the East. She is 3four next neighbor. She is 
more affected by the Eastern populations than any other 
power. She can never be insensible to what is doing here. 
Whatever her influence may be, I am proud to ihink that 
it has always heen exerted in behalf of justice and kindness. 
No nation needs from the outside powers justice and kind- 
ness more than Japan, because the work that has made 
such marvelous progress in the past few years is a work 
in which we are deeply concerned, in the success of which 
we see a new era in civilization, and which we should en- 
courage. I do not know, gentlemen, that I can say anything 
more than this in response to the kind words of the Gov- 
ernor. Judge Bingham can speak with much more elo- 
quence and much more authority as our Minister. But I 
could not allow the occasion to pass without saying how 
deeply I sympathized with Japan in her efforts to advance, 
and how much those efforts were appreciated in America. 
In that spirit I ask you to unite with me in a sentiment: 
* The prosperity and the independence of Japan.' " 

General Grant, a few minutes later, arose and said that 
he wished to propose another toast — a personal one — the 
drinking of wdiich would be a great pleasure to him. This 
was the health of Judge Bingham, the American Minister 
to Japan. He had appointed the Judge Minister, and he 
was glad to know that the confidence expressed in that 
appointment had been confirmed by the admiration and 
respect of the Japanese people. When a Minister serves 
his own country as well as Judge 13ingham has served 
America, and in doing so wins the esteem of the authori- 
ties and the people to whom he is accredited, he has 
achieved the highest success in diplomacy. 



TOUli AltOUNU THE WORLD. 259 

Mr. Yoshida, the Japanese Minister, arose and asked 
leave to add his high appreciation of Mr. Bingham, and the 
vahie wliich had been placed on his friendsliip to Japan by 
the government. He was proud to bear public tribute to 
Mr. Bingham's sincerity and friendliness, and to join in 
drinking his health. 

Judge Bingham, in response to the sentiments of per- 
sonal regard offered by Mr. Yoshida, acknowledged the 
courtesy to himself, and said that he had come hither to 
join the official representatives of His Majesty the Em- 
peror, and also the people of Nagasaki in fitting testimo- 
nials of respect to General Grant, the friend of the United 
States of America, and the friend of Japan. He had come 
to Japan as Minister, bearing the commission issued by the 
distinguished guest of the evening. It had been his en- 
deavor to faithfully discharge his duties, and in such man- 
ner as would strengthen the friendship between the two 
countries, and promote the commercial interests of both. 
He knew that in so acting he reflected the wishes of the 
illustrious man who is the guest of the Empire, and the 
wishes also of the President and people of the United 
States. " The Government of my country," said Mr. 
Bingham, " has, by a recent treaty with Japan, manifested 
its desire that justice may be done, by according to Japan 
her right to regulate her own commercial affairs, and to do 
justice is the highest duty, as it is the highest interest, of 
civil government." 

On June 24, General Grant was banqueted by the citi- 
zens in the style of the daimios, the feudal lords of Japan. 
The place selected was the old temple in the heai't of the 
city. The party numbered about twenty, including Gen- 
eral Grant and party. Consul Mangum and family, and 
Consul Denny and family. The Herald correspondent ac- 
companying General Grant speaks of this dinner as follows: 

" The dinner was served on small tables, each guest 



26o GENERAL U. S. GRANt's 

having a table to himself. The merchants of the city 
waited on their guests, and with them a swarm of attend- 
ants wearing the costumes of Japan. The bill of fare was 
almost a volume, and embraced over fifty courses. The 
wine was served in unglazed porcelain wine cujjs, on white 
wooden stands. The appetite was pampered in the begin- 
ning with dried fish, edible seaweeds and isinglass, in some- 
thing of the Scandinavian style, except that the attempt did 
not take the form of brandy and raw fish. The first serious 
dish was composed of crane, seaweed, moss, rice bread and 
potatoes, which we picked over in a curious way, as though 
we were at an auction sale of remnants, anxious to rummage 
out a bargain. The soup, when it first came — for It came 
many times — was an honest soup of fish, like a delicate 
fish chowder. Then came strange dishes, as ragout and as 
soup, in bewildering confusion. The first was called 
namasu, and embodied fish, clams, chestnuts, rock mush- 
rooms and ginger. Then, in various combinations, the fol- 
lowing: duck, truffles, turnips, dried bonito, melons, pressed 
salt, aromatic shrubs, snipe, egg plant, jelly, boiled rice, 
snapper, shrimp, potatos, mushroom, cabbage, lassfish, 
orange flowers, powdered fish, flavored with plum juice 
and walnuts, raw carp sliced, mashed fish, baked fish, isin- 
glass, fish boiled with pickled beans, wine, and rice again. 
This all came in the first course, and as a finale to the 
course there was a sweetmeat composed of white and red 
bean jelly cake, and boiled black mushroom. With this 
came powdered tea, which had a green, monitory look, 
and suggested your earliest experience in medicine. When 
the first pause came in the dinner, two of the merchant 
hosts advanced toward General Grant and read the follow- 
ing address: — 

"'General U. S. Grant: In the name of the citizens 
of Nagasaki we offer yo" ^i sincere welcome to tliis small 
town. We feel greatly honored by your visit to Nagasaki, 



TOUR AROUND THE WORLD. 261 

and still more so by your becoming our guest this evening. 
Any outward signs of respect and hospitality we offer you 
are but a fraction of our kindly feelings toward you, 
and are quite inadequate to express the great admiration 
we have for you. On your return to your own great 
country, after having visited this Eastern Empire, we trust 
you will carry with you pleasant reminiscences and friendly 
feelings toward our country and people. We wish you 
a successful career and a long life and health to enjoy the 
illustrious name and position you have made for yourself. 
The dinner at which you have honored us with your com- 
pany is given in this country to convey from the hosts 
their well wishes and the friendship they feel toward their 
honorable guest; and in the hope that a long and sincere 
intnnacy may be promoted between our guest and those we 
have the honor to represent to-night, we have offered you 
this poor entertainment. 

" ' We have the honor to be, with much respect, your 
most obedient servants, 

"'AWOKI KiNHICHIRO, 

"'Matsuda Gongoro. 

" ' General Grant arose, and said: 

" ' Gentlemen : I am highly honored by your address, 
and also by this sumptuous entertainment. I have enjoyed 
exceedingly my visit to Japan, and appreciate more than I 
can say the kindness that has been shown me by all per- 
sons. But I have enjoyed nothing more than this, because 
it comes from the citizens of Nagasaki, and is entirely unof- 
ficial. That I take as an especial compliment, coming as it 
does from the people and not the government. For while 
I am deeply gratified for all that your government is doing 
to render my trip here agreeable and instructive, I have a 
peculiar pleasure in meeting those who are not in author- 
ity, who are the citizens of a country. I shall take away 



262 GENERAL U. S. GRANt's 

from Nagasaki the most grateful remembrances of your 
hospitality and the most pleasant recollections of the 
beauty ot the place. Agaiii accept my sincere thanks for 
your kindness.' 

" When the second course was finished — the course that 
came to an end in powdered tea and sweetmeats, composed 
of white and red bean jelly cake and boiled black mush- 
room — there was an interval. All arose from the table 
and sauntered about on the graveled walk, and looked down 
upon the bay and the enfolding hills. One never tires of 
a scene like Nagasaki ; everything is so ripe and rich and 
old. Tmie has done so much for the venerable town, the 
eddies of a new civilization are rushing in upon Nagasaki. 
The town has undergone vast changes since the day when 
Dutch merchants were kept in a reservation more secluded 
than we have ever kept our Indians; when Xavier and his 
disciples threaded those narrow streets preaching the salva- 
tion that comes through the blood of Jesus; when Chris- 
tians were driven at the point of the spear to yon beetling 
clifF and tumbled into the sea. These are momentous events 
in the history of Japan. They were merely incidents in 
the history of Nagasaki. The ancient town has lived on 
sleepily, embodying and absorbing the features of Eastern 
civilization, unchanged and unchanging, its beauty expres- 
sive because it is a beauty of its own, untinted by Euro- 
peans. We have old towns in the Eiu'opean world. We 
even speak as if we had a past in fresh America. But 
what impresses you in these aspects of Eastern develop- 
ment is their antiquity, before wliich the most ancient of 
our towns are but as yesterday. The spirit of ages breathes 
over Nagasaki, and you cease to think of chronology and 
see only the deep, rich tones which time has given and 
which time alone can give. 

" But while we could well spend our evening strolling 
over this graveled walk and leaning over the quaint brick 



TOUR AROUND Tllli WORLD. 263 

wall and stuclyin<^ the varied and ever ehanging- scene that 
sweeps beneath us, we must not forget our entertainment. 
On returning to the dining-room, we find that the serv- 
ants have brought in the candles. Before each table is a 
pedestal, on whicli a candle burns, and the old temple lights 
up with a new splendor. To add to this splendor the walls 
have been draped with heavy silks, embroidered with gold 
and silver, with quaint and curious legends in the history 
of Japan. The merchants enter again, bearing meats. 
Advancing to the centre of the room, and to the Gen- 
eral, they kneel and press their foreheads to the floor. 
With this demure courtesy the course begins. Other 
attendants enter, and place on each table the lacquer bowls 
and dishes. Instead of covering the tables with a variety 
of food, and tempting you with auxiliary dishes of water- 
melon seeds and almond kernels, as in China, the Japanese 
give you a small variety at a time. Our amiable friend, 
the Japanese Minister, warned us in the beginning not to 
be in a hurry, to restrain our curiosity, not to hurry our in- 
vestigations into the science of a Japanese table, but to pick 
and nibble and wait — that there were good things coming, 
which we should not be beyond the condition of enjoying. 
What a comfort, for instance, a roll of bread would be, and 
a glass of dry champagne ! But there is no bread and no 
wine, and our only drink is the hot preparation from rice, 
with its sherry flavor, which is poured out of a teapot into 
shallow lacquer saucers, and which you sip, not without 
relish, although it has no place in any beverage known to 
your experience. We are dining, however, in strict Jap- 
anese fashion, just as the old daimios did, and our hosts are 
too good artists to spoil a feast with champagne. Then it 
has been going on for hours, and when you have reached 
the fourth hour of a dinner, even a temperance dinner, with 
nothing more serious than a hot, insipid, sherry-like rice 
drink, you have passed beyond the critical and curious into 



264 GENERAL U. S. GRANt's 

the resigned condition. If we had only been governed by 
the Minister, we might have enjoyed this soup, which comes 
first in the course, and, as you Hft the lacquered top, you 
know to be hot and fragrant. It is a soup composed of 
carp and mushroom and aromatic shrub. Another dish is 
a prepared fish that looks like a confection of cocoanut, but 
which you see to be fish as you prod it with your chop- 
sticks. This is composed of the red snapper fish, and is 
served in red and white alternate squares. It looks well, 
but you pass it by, as well as another dish that is more 
poetic, at least, for it is a preparation of the skylark, wheat- 
flour cake and gourd. We are not offended by the next 
soup, which comes hot and smoking, a soup of buckwheat 
and egg-plant. The egg-plant always seemed to be a vul- 
gar, pretentious plant, that might do for the trough, but 
was never intended for the dignity of the table. But buck- 
wheat in a soup is unfitting, and, allied with the egg plant, 
is a degradation, and no sense of curious inquiry of investi- 
gation can tolerate so grave a violation of the harmony of 
the table. You push your soup to the end of the table 
and nip off the end of a fresh cigar, and look out upon the 
town, over which the dominant universe has thrown the 
star-sprinkled mantle of night, and follow the lines of light 
that mark the welcome we are enjoying, and trace the 
ascending rockets as they shoot up from the hillside to 
break into masses of dazzling fire and illuminate the 
heavens for a moment in a rhapsody of blue and scarlet 
and green and silver and gold. 

" If you have faith, you will enter bravely into the dish 
that your silk-draped attendant now places before you, and 
as he does bows to the level of the table and slides away. 
This is called oh-hira. The base of this dish is panyu. 
Panyu is a sea fish. The panyu in itself would be a dish, 
but in addition we have a fungus, the roots of the lily and 
the stems of the pumpkin. 



TOUR AROUND THE WORLD. 265 

" While our hosts are passing around the strange dishes 
a signal is made, and the musicians enter. They are maid- 
ens with fair, pale laces, and small, dark, serious eyes. You 
are pleased to see that their teeth have not been blackened, 
as was the custom in past days, and is even now almost a 
prevalent custom among the lower classes. We are told 
that the maidens who have come to grace our feast are not 
of the common singing class, but the daughters of the mer- 
chants and leading citizens of Nagasaki. The first group is 
composed of three. They enter, sit down on the floor, and 
bow their heads in salutation. One of the instruments is 
shaped like a guitar, another is something between a banjo 
and a drum. They wear the costume of the country, the 
costume that was known before the new days came upon 
Japan. They have blue silk gowns, white collars, and 
heavily brocaded pearl-colored sashes. The principal in- 
strument was long and narrow, shaped like a coffin lid, 
and sounding like a harpsichord. After they had played 
an overture, another group entered, fourteen maidens simi- 
larly dressed, each carrying the small banjo-like instru- 
ment, and ranging themselves on a bench against the wall, 
the tapestry and silks suspended over them. Then the 
genius of the artist was apparent, and the rich depending 
taj^estry, blended with the blue and white and pearl, and 
animated with the faces of the maidens, their music and 
their songs, made a picture of Japanese life which an artist 
might regard with envy. You see then the delicate features 
of Japanese decoration which have bewitched our artist 
friends, and which the most adroit fingers in vain try to 
copy. When the musicians enter, the song begins. It is 
an original composition. The theme is the glory of America 
and honor to General Grant. They sing of the joy that 
his coming has given to Japan; of the interest and the pride 
they take in his fame; of their friendship for their friends 
across the great sea. This is all sung in Japanese, and we 



i66 



GENERAL U. S, GRANT S 



follow the lines through the mediation of a Japanese friend 
who learned his Eng-lish in America. This anthem was 
chanted in a low, almost monotonous key, one singer lead- 
ing in a kind of solo, and the remainder coming in with 
a chorus. The song ended, twelve dancing maidens enter.. 
They wore a crimson-like overgarment fishioned like 
pantaloons — a foot or so too long — so that when they 
walked it was with a dainty pace, lest they might trip and 
fall. The director of this group was constantly on his 
hands and knees, creeping around among the dancers, 
keeping their drapery in order, not allowing it to bundle 
u]D and vex the play. These maidens carried bouquets of 
pink blossoms, artificially made, examples of the flora of 
Japan. They stepped through the dance at as slow a 
measure as in a minuet of Louis XIV. The movement of 
the dance was simple, and the music a humming, thrum- 
ming, as though the performers were tuning their instru- 
ments. After passing through a few measures the dancers 
slowly filed out, and were followed by another group, who- 
came wearing masks — the mask in the form of a large 
doll's face — and bearing children's rattles and fans. The- 
peculiarity of this dance was that time was kept by the 
movement of the fan — a graceful, expressive movement,, 
which only the Eastern pcojole have learned to bestow on 
the fan. With them the fan becomes almost an organ of 
speech, and the eye is emplo^-ed in its management at the 
expense of the admiration we are apt at home to bestow 
on other features of the amusement. The masks indicated 
that this was a humorous dance, and when it was over four 
special performers, who had unusual skill, came in with 
flowers, and danced a pantomime. Then came four others,, 
with costumes diflferent — blue robes, trimmed with gold — 
who carried long, thin wands, entwined in gold and red, 
from which dangled festoons of pink blossoms. 

" All this time the music hummed and thrummed. To- 



TOUR AROUND THE WORLD. 267 

vary the show, we had even a more grotesque amusement. 
First came eight children, who could scarcely do more than 
toddle. They were dressed in white, embroidered in green 
and red, wearing purple caps formed like the Phrygian 
liberty cap, and dangling on the shoulders. They came 
into the temple enclosure and danced on the graveled walk, 
while two, wearing an imitation of a dragon's skin, went 
through a dance and various contortions, supposed to be a 
dragon at play. This reminded us of the pantomime ele- 
phant, where one performer plays the front and another 
the hind legs. In the case of our Japanese dragon the legs 
were obvious, and the performers seemed indisposed even 
to respect the illusion. It was explained that it was an 
ancient village dance, one of the oldest in Japan, and that on 
festive occasions, when the harvests are ripe or when some 
legend or feat of heroism is to be commemorated, they assem- 
ble and dance it. It was a trifling, innocent dance, and you 
felt as you looked at it, and, indeed, at all the features of our 
most unique entertainment, that there was a good deal of 
nursery imagination in Japanese ^c^cs and games. A more 
striking featui'e were the decorations which came with the 
second course of our feast. First came servants, bearing 
two trees, one of the pine the other of the plum. The 
plum tree was in full blossom. One of these was set on a 
small table in front of Mrs. Grant, the other in front of the 
General. Another decoration was a cherry tree, surmount- 
ing a large basin, in which were living carp fish. The carp 
has an important position in the legends of Japan. It is 
the emblem of ambition and resolution. This quality was 
shown in another decoration, representing a waterfall, with 
carp climbing against the stream. The tendency of the 
carp to dash against rocks and climb waterfalls, which 
should indicate a lower order of intellect and perverted judg- 
ment, is supposed to show the traits of the ambitious man. 
" The soups disappear. You see we have only had seven 



268 GENERAL U. S. GRANt's 

distinct soups served at intervals, and so cunningly pre- 
pared that you are convinced that in the ancient days of 
Japanese splendor soup had a dignity which it has lost. 

" With the departure of the soups our dinner becomes 
fantastic. Perhaps the old daimios knew that by the time 
their guests had eaten of seven soups and twenty courses 
in addition, and drank of innumerable dishes of rice liquor, 
they were in a condition to require a daring flight of genius. 

" The music is in full flow, and the lights of the town 
grow brighter with the shades of darkening night, and 
some of the company have long since taken refuge from 
the dinner in cigars, and over the low brick wall and in 
the recesses of the temple grounds crowds begin to cluster 
and form, and below, at the foot of the steps, the crowd 
grows larger and larger, and you hear the buzz of the 
throng and the clinking of the lanterns of the chair bearers, 
for the whole town was in festive mood, and high up in our 
open temple on the hillside we have become a show for the 
town. Well, that is only a small return for the measure- 
less hospitality we have enjoyed, and, if we can gratify an 
innocent curiosity, let us think of so much pleasure given 
in our way through the world. It is such a relief to know 
that we have passed beyond any comprehension of our din- 
ner, which we look at as so many conceptions and prepara- 
tions — curious contrivances, which we study out as though 
they were riddles or problems adjusted for our entertain- 
ment. The dining quality vanished with that eccentric 
soup of lassfish and orange flowers. With the General it 
went much earlier. It must be said that for the General 
the table has few charms, and, long before we began on 
the skylarks and buckwheat degraded by the egg plant, he 
for whom this feast is given had taken refuge in a cigar, 
and contented himself with looking upon the beauty of 
the town and bay and clifl', allowing the dinner to flow 
along. You will observe, if you have followed the narra- 



TOUR AROUND THE WORLD. 269 

tive of our feast, that meat plays a small and fish a large part 
in a daimios dinner — fish and the products of the forest and 
field. The red snapper has the place of honor, and, 
although we have had the snapper in five diflTerent shapes — 
as a soup, as a ragout flavored with cabbage, broiled with 
pickled beans, and hashed — here he comes again, baked, 
decorated with ribbons, with every scale in place, folded in a 
bamboo basket. 

" As a final course, we had pears prepared with horse 
radish, a cake of wheat flour and powdered ice. The din- 
ner came to a close after a struggle of six or seven hours, 
and as we drove home through the illuminated town, bril- 
liant with lanterns and fireworks and arches and bonfires, 
it was felt that we had been honored by an entertainment 
such as we may never again expect to see." 

After having spent several days in this old town and its 
vicinity, the General and party bid adieu to the many 
friends and acquaintances, and embarked for Yokohama, 
where he was received with great and enthusiastic demon- 
strations. After a short reception to the princes, Ministers 
and high ofiicials of the Japanese government, the General 
and party were driven to the railroad station, and at two 
o'clock the train entered the station at Tokio. An im- 
mense crowd was in waiting. As the General descended 
from the train, a committee of citizens advanced and asked 
to read an address. The following was then read in Japan- 
ese, by ISIr. Fukuchi, and in English by Dr. McCartee: 

"Sir: On belialf of the people of Tokio, we beg to 
congratulate you on your safe arrival. How you crushed 
a rebellion, and afterward ruled a nation in peace and right- 
eousness, is known over the whole world, and there is not 
a man in Japan who does not admire your high character 
and illustrious career. Although the great Pacific Ocean 
stretches for thousands of miles between your country and 
ours, your people are our next neighbors in the East, and, 



270 GENERAL U. S. GRANt's 

as it was chiefly through your initiative that we entered 
upon those relations and that commerce with foreigners 
which have now attained such a flourishing condition, our 
countrymen have always cherished a good feeling for your 
people, and look upon them more than on any other for- 
eign nation as their true friends. Moreover, it was during 
the happy times of your Presidency that the two countries 
became more closely acquainted and connected, and almost 
every improvement that has been made in our country may 
be traced to the example and lessons received from yours. 
For years past, not only our Minister, but any one of our 
countrymen who went to your country, was received with 
hospitality and courtesy. It is, therefore, impossible that 
our countrymen should now forbear from giving expression 
to their gratification and gratitude. 

" Your visit to our shores is one of those rare events 
that happen once in a thousand years. The citizens of 
Tokio consider it a great honor that they have been afforded 
the opportunity of receiving you as their guest, and they 
cherish the hope that this event will still more cement the 
friendship between the two nations in the future We now 
offer you a hearty and respectful welcome. 

" The Tokio Reception Committee. 

" The 3d July, iSjg'' 

General Grant said: 

" Gentlemen: I am very much obliged for this kind 
reception, and especially for your address. It affords me 
great pleasure to visit Tokio. I had been some days in 
Japan, having seen several points of interest in the interior 
and on the inland sea. I have been gratified to witness the 
prosperity and advancement of which I had heard so 
much, and in which my countrymen have taken so deep an 
interest. I am pleased to hear your kind expressions toward 
the United States. We have no sentiment there that is not 
friendly to Japan, that does not wish her prosperity and 



TOUR AI.iHM) TIIK WORLD. 37I 

independence, and a continuance on her part of her noble 
policy. The knowledge that your country is prosperous and 
advancing is most gratifying to the people of the United 
States. It is my sincere wish that this friendship may 
never be broken. For this kind welcome to the capital of 
Japan I am again very much obliged." 

General Grant's home in Tokio was at the palace of 
Enriokwan, only a few minutes' ride from the railroad sta- 
tion. This palace was one of the homes of the Tycoon; it 
now belongs to the Emperor. If one's ideas of palaces are 
European, or even American, he will be disappointed with 
Enriokwan. One somehow associates a palace with state, 
splendor, a profusion of color and decoration, with upholstery 
and marble. Theix was nothing of this in Enriokwan. 
The approach to the grounds was by a dusty road that ran 
by the side of a canal. The canal was sometimes in an 
oozing condition, and boats were held in the mud. There 
is a good deal of ceremony in Enriokwan, with the constant 
coming and going of great people, and no sound is more 
familiar than the sound of the bugle. Passing a gunrd 
house and going down a pebbled way to a low, one-story 
building with wings, the palace of Enriokwan is reached. 
Over the door is the chrysanthemum, the Emperor's special 
flower. The main building is a scries of reception rooms, 
in various styles of decoration, notably Japanese. There 
are eight different rooms in all. General Grant used the 
small room to the left of the hall. On ceremonial occasions 
he used the main saloon, which extended one-half the length 
of the palace. Here a hundred people could be entertained 
with ease. This room was a beautiful specimen of Japanese 
decorative art, and the General never became so familiar with 
it that there were not constant surprises in the way of color 
or form or design. Each of these rooms was decorated dif- 
ferently from the others. The apartments of General Grant 
and party were in one wing, the dining-room, billiard room 



272 



GENERAL U. S. GRANT S 



and apartments of the Japanese officials in attendance in 
another wing. Around the palace was a verandah, with 
growing flowers in profusion and swinging lanterns. The 
beauty of the palace was not in its architecture, which was 
plain and inexpressive, but in the taste which marked the 
most minute detail of decoration, and in the arrangement 
of the grounds. 

Enriokwan is an island. On one side is a canal and 
embanked walls, on the other side the ocean. Although 
in an ancient and populous city, surrounded by a teeming, 
busy metropolis, one feels as he passes nito Enriokwan that 
he is as secure as in a fortress and as secluded as in a 
forest. The grounds are large, and remarkable for the 
beauty and finish of the landscape gardening. In the art 
of gardening Japan excels the world, and the visitors had 
seen no more attractive specimen than the grounds of 
Enriokwan. Roads, flower beds, lakes, bridges, artificial 
mounds, creeks overhung with sedgy overgrowths, lawns, 
boats, bowers over which vines are trailing, summer houses, 
all combine to give comfort to Enriokwan. Sitting on 
this verandah, under the columns where the General sat 
every evening, he could look out upon a ripe aijd perfect 
landscape, dowered with green. If they walked into the 
grounds a few minutes they passed a gate — an inner gate, 
which was locked at night — and came to a lake, on the 
banks of which is a Japanese summer house. The lake is 
artificial, and fed from the sea. They crossed a bridge and 
came to another summer house. Here were two boats tied 
up, with the imperial chrysanthemum emblazoned on their 
bows. These are the private boats of the Emperor, and if 
they care for a pull they can row across and lose themselves 
in one of the creeks. They ascend a grassy mound, however, 
not more than forty feet high. Steps are cut in the side of 
the mound, and when they reach the summit they see beneath 
them the waves and before them the ocean. The sea at 



TOUR AROUND THE WORLD. 273 

this point forms a bay. When the tides are down and the 
waves are cahn, fishermen are seen wading about, seeking 
shells and shellfish. When the tides are up, the boats sail 
near the shore, and sometimes as one is strolling under the 
trees he can look up and see through the foliage a sail float 
past him, firm and steady and bending to the breeze. 

The summer houses by the lake are worthy of study. 
Japan has taught the world the beauty of clean, fine grained 
natural wood, and the fallacy of glass and paint. Nothing 
could be more simple, at the same time more tasteful, than 
these summer houses. It is one room, with grooves for ? 
partition if two rooms should be needed. The floor is cov 
ered with a fine, closely woven mat of bamboo strips. Ovei 
the mat is thrown a rug, in which black and brown pre- 
dominate. The walls looking out to the lake are a series 
of frames that can be taken out — lattice work of small 
squares, covered with paper. The ceiling is plain, unvar- 
nished wood. There are a few shelves, with vases, blue 
and white pottery, containing growing plants and flowers. 
There are two tables, and their only furniture a large box 
of gilded lacquer, for stationery, and a smaller one, con- 
taining cigars. These boxes are of exquisite workmanship, 
and the gold crysanthemum indicates the imperial owner- 
ship. This was a type of all the houses that were seen in 
the palace grounds, not only at Enriokwan, but elsewhere 
in Japan. It shows taste and econom}'. Everything about 
it was wholesome and clean, the workmanship true and 
minute, with no tawdry appliances to distract or offend the 
eye. 

The General's life in Enriokwan was very quiet. The 
weather hud been such that going out during the day was 
a discomfort. During the day there were ceremonies, calls 
from Japanese and foreign ofiicials, papers to read, visits to 
make. If the evening was free, the General had a dinner 
party — sometimes small, sometimes large. One night it 
18 



374 GENERAL U. S. GRANT'S 

was the royal Princes, the next the Prime Ministers, on 
other evenings other Japanese of rank and station. Some- 
times he had Admiral Patterson or officers from the fleet. 
Sometimes Mr. Bingham and his family. Governor Hen- 
nessy, the British Governor of Hong Kong, v\^as there dur- 
ing a part of his stay. General Grant was the guest of the 
Governor during his residence in Hong Kong, and formed 
a high opinion of the Governor's genius and character. 
The Governor was a frequent visitor at Enriokwan, and no 
man was more welcome to the General. Prince Dati, Mr. 
Yoshida, and some other Japanese officials, live at Enriok- 
W'an, and formed a part of the General's family. They rep- 
resented the Emperor, and remained with the General to 
serve him, and make his stay as pleasant as possible. 
Nothing could be more considerate or courteous or hos- 
pitable than the kindness of their Japanese friends. Some- 
times they had merchants from the bazaars, with all kinds 
of curious and useful things to sell. But when Mr. Borie 
w6nt home, the reputation of General Grant's party as pur- 
chasers of cui'Ious things fell. Sometimes a fancy for curi- 
riosities took possession of some of the party, and the result 
was an afternoon's prowl about the shops in Tokio, and 
the purchase of a sword or a spear, or a bow and arrows. 
The bazaars of Tokio teemed with beautiful works of art, 
and the temptation to go back laden with achievements in 
porcelain and lacquer was too great to be resisted, unless 
their will was under the control of material influences too 
sordid to be dwelt upon. 

On July 8, three Princes and Princesses called at the 
palace and escorted General and Mrs. Grant to one of the 
Ministers, where a native dance was performed for their 
amusement. In the evening the grand reception, for which 
great preparations had been made, came off at the College 
of Engineering. It was the first of three great entertain- 
ments intended to be given the General in Tokio, for which 



TOUR AROUND THE WORLD. 



^7:) 



thirty thousand yen had been subscribed. The weather 
during the afternoon had been threatening, but, though a 
few drops of rain fell, there was not sufficient to interfere 
with the brilliant displa}- of Japanese lamps with which 
the roadway from the Enriokwan to the college, and the 
compound of the college, was illuminated. In the com- 
pound there were six thousand lamps of variegated colors, 
the majority having the national flags of Jaj^an and America 
painted on them. At the entrance to the main hall was an 
arch, composed entirely of lanterns, which was a mag- 
nificent spectacle. The letters " U. S. G.," in green foliage, 
were suspended in the centre, and the flags of JajDan and 
America, joined together, reached from one side to the 
other. From the branches of every tree and shrub in the 
grounds hung lanterns, presenting a most unique and pic- 
turesque appearance. The hall in which the reception took 
place was a fine building, capable of holding a thousand 
or more people comfortably on the ground floor, while the 
extensive galleries would contain several hundred persons. 
A more appropriate building for the occasion could not 
have been found in Tokio. The waiting-room was com- 
modious and well filled with excellent seats, but rather 
poorly lighted. It would have been a great improvement 
if some lamps had been fixed on the walls, and thus have 
enabled visitors to distinguish their friends easily. The 
supper room was some distance away from the reception 
hall, and in another building, and the committee had pru- 
dently provided against any inclemency on the part of the 
way leading to it. As to the supper itself, little may be 
weather by erecting a temporary roof over the whole path- 
said; there was plenty of everything and everything of the 
best. Shortly after 8 o'clock the Governor of the Tokio 
Fu arrived in his carriage, and on alighting courteously 
saluted every individual in the waiting-room. At 9 o'clock 
General Grant, Mrs. Grant, General T. B. Van Buren. 



276 GENERAL U. S. GRAXt's 

Admiral Patterson and several Japanese of distinction left 
the Enriokwan and arrived at the college in a quarter of an 
houi\ The guest of the evening was conducted to a room 
up-stairs which had been prepared for him. By this time 
over a thousand guests had arrived, including princes of the 
blood, Ministers of the diflerent departments, Japanese 
naval and military officers, the Foreign Ministers, officers 
from the Richmond, Monongahela and Ashuelot, and many 
distinguished foreigners and native citizens. Soon the 
secretary of the entertainment committee cleared the way, 
and soon afterward General Grant entered, leaning on the 
arm of a Japanese official. Mrs. Grant was under the care 
of another. The General, Mrs. Grant, Mrs. Hennessy 
and Japanese Princesses were conducted to the far end of 
the room, where seats were provided. On a dais at their 
backs, which was prettily ornamented with flowers and 
shrubs, were stationed Admiral Patterson, CajDtain Ben- 
ham, General Van Buren and several other personages of 
note. The large hall was crowded with j^eople of all 
nationalties, dressed in bright and picturesque costumes^ 
making as brilliant a display as any of the kind that had 
ever taken place in Tokio. 

For over half an hour General and Mrs. Grant stood 
on their feet to shake hands w^ith and receive the greetings 
of the people of Tokio. It was warm work while it lasted. 
The General with one hand returned the grasp of each per- 
son as he or she passed by, and wiped the perspiration off 
his brow with the other. The reception being over, a 
move was made for the supper room, and, a short time 
afterward, General and Mrs. Grant returned to the Enriok- 
wan. Many of the guests also returned to their homes 
about the same time, but others remained to enjoy them- 
selves. The excellent imperial and military bands, which 
had been playing in the grounds all the evening, were 
brought inside and discoursed alternately. A faint attempt 



TOUR AROUND THE WORLD. 2^7 

was made to get up a dance, but no spirit was displayed, 
and it was not persevered with. And so this entertainment 
came to an end. 

On the 9th, the General was to be received in Yoko- 
hama. During the forenoon General and Colonel Grant 
visited the military college in Tokio, and were received by 
its president. Every branch of the college was carefully 
examined, and a drill by the cadets witnessed. There were 
also present a large number of ministers, generals, council- 
lors of state, and other officials. Three members of the 
committee of entertainment of Yokohama visited the Gen- 
eral at the Enriokwan, to conduct him to the evening train. 
Arriving at the station about nine o'clock, they were re- 
ceived by the committee and escorted to the town hall, 
where the reception was held. The principal streets were 
gaily decorated with lanterns bearing the American and 
Japanese flags, and along one side of the street leading to 
the depot were several large dashi, or festival cars, in which 
native music and pantomime were performed. The town 
hall was brilliantly illuminated, and the imperial naval band 
in attendance gave a fine selection of music. After arriving 
at the hall, General Grant held a reception, which was fol- 
lowed by exhibitions of native dancing and acting. A well- 
spread table supplied the inner wants of the guests. The 
party returned to Tokio by a special train. 

On the loth, General and Mrs. Grant visited the female 
normal school at Tokio, in company with the acting Min- 
ister of Education, Mr. Tanaka, Tvlrs. Tanaka, and several 
members of the foreign department. On arriving at the 
school, they were received by the director, Mr. Nakamura, 
who conducted his visitors to the room where the students 
were learning their lessons. The General and Mrs. Grant 
were much pleased with the arrangements, and, having 
been shown over the various apartments, took their leave 
and proceeded direct to the educational museum at Uyeno, 



278 GENERAL U. S. GRANt's 

where they were entertained at a banquet. On returning 
to the Enriokwan, the General walked through the Uyeno 
gardens. 

In the afternoon, a number of the reception committee 
of Yokohama visited the Enriokwan, and were received in 
the drawing-room of the palace. Admiral Patterson and 
staff, in full uniform, were present also. After presenting 
the gentlemen of the committee, General Van Buren said: 

" General Grant, the gentlemen who have just been 
presented to you are representatives of the foreign com- 
munity of Yokohama, a community composed of all nation- 
alities, and gathered from almost every clime. They have 
commissioned me to greet you in their name, and to bid 
you welcome to Yokohama whenever you are prepared to 
honor them with a visit. They are fiimiliar with your his- 
tory, and believe that the eminent services you have ren- 
dered your country have, in some sense, been rendered to 
the world at large, and are entitled to a world's recognition. 
Appreciating the kind and generous hospitality extended 
to you by the government and people of Japan, the foreign 
residents of Yokohama desire an opportunity to meet you 
in person and to express to you personally their admiration 
and regard. To this end they propose to have an entertain- 
ment in the form of a garden party at such time as may 
suit your convenience, and they will be pleased to receive 
your assent to the proposition and your acceptance of this 
most cordial invitation." 

General Grant replied: "I thank the foreign residents 
of Yokohama most cordially for their kind invitation, 
which I accept with great pleasure; but it will be impossi- 
ble for me at joresent to fix a positive date for the enter- 
tainment. On the 16th instant it is arranged that I go to ihe 
mountains, to be gone ten days or two weeks. I expect to 
be back in Tokio the later part of the month, after which, 
before I leave Japan, which I now think will be on the 



TOUR AROUND THE WORLD. 279 

27th of August, I am to go north to Hakodate and vicinity. 
I think it would be safe, tlierefore, to fix the first week in 
August, or such a day as you may prefer." 

The committee, after taking refreshments, were con- 
ducted about the grounds, which were in excellent order. 

The next day, the party at the palace remained quiet. 
On the 1 3th, Saturday, what may be styled the "Feast of 
Lanterns," took place on the Sumida river in Tokio, and 
was of unusual brilliancy. 

Shortly before eight o'clock, General and Mrs. Grant 
and Mr. and Mrs. Yoshida in one carriage, Colonel Giant, 
General T. B. Van Buren, Lieutenant Belknap and Mr. 
Young in another carriage, left the Enriokwan for the 
scene of festivities. Mr. Hachiska's residence on the river 
had been fitted up for the reception of the illustrious guest,., 
who was met by the Japanese princes, members of the : 
ministry, Mr. Mori, Hon. John A. Bingham, Miss Bmg- 
ham, Mr. and INIrs. Hennessy (the latter astonished the na- 
tives by appearing in Japanese costume, and, when asked, 
why she was so dressed, replied that it was not only con- 
venient to wear Japanese clothing in hot weather, but she 
also wore it out of respect to Japan), and several others who 
were invited. In the locality of the house were several 
foreigners who had not been fortunate enough to be among 
the invited, but who were glad to have the privilege of 
obtaining a good view without being crushed in the 
crowd. 

The streets and the Riogoku-bashi were thronged with 
visitors, and it was a pretty sight when seen to advantage. 
The river was ablaze with red and white lanteims, which, 
together with an almost incessant display of fireworks, 
formed such a brilliant spectacle as beggars description on 
paper. General and Mrs. Grant were delighted. They 
had never seen anything of the kind before, and the Gen- 



28o GENERAL U. S. GRANT'S 

eral expressed his opinion that he never expected to see 
such an interesting and beautiful illumination again. 

At ten o'clock Mr. Hachiska's guests partook of a sump- 
tuous repast, which had been provided ; shortly afterward a 
terrific shower, such as occasionally bursts over this part ot 
Japan, almost totally extinguished the illumination. The 
rain poured down in torrents, so that even passengers by 
the train could not shut it out of the carriages. As for 
the immense congi"egation of people on the bridges and in 
the streets, they were drenched in a few seconds. A rush 
was made for shelter, but no shelter was to be found, and 
the crowd surged backward and forward in a bewildered 
state for the space of half an hour. The same state of con- 
fusion prevailed among the boats. The rain put nearly all 
lights out, boats collided one with the other, and the shouts 
of the sendoes onh' made "confusion worse confounded." 
When the rain ceased, the majority of speculators had had 
their ardor sufficiently dampened to induce them to make 
for their homes, as speedily as jinrikishas could take them, 
which was not very fast, certainly. Every now and then 
a whole streetful of these vehicles would be blocked up, 
unable to move for several minutes. 

About eleven o'clock General Grant and his party 
returned to the Enriokwan. 

On July 4 occurred the reception by the Emperor at his 
palace. The hour for the reception was two o'clock in the 
afternojii. General Grant invited several of his naval 
friends to accompany him. The palace of the Emperor 
was a long distance from the home of the General. Their 
drive led them through the damios quarter and through 
the gates of the city. 

The impression a foreigner gets ot Tokio is that it is a 
city of walls and canals. The walls are crude and solid, 
surrounded by moats. In the early days of pikemen and 
sword bearers, there could not have been a more effective 



TOUR AROUND THE WORLD. 281 

defense. After crossing a dozen or more bridges in the 
course of the drive to the palace of the Emperor, they ar- 
rived at a modest arched gateway. Soldiers were drawn up, 
and the band played " Hail Columbia." The carriages 
drove on past one or two modest buildings, and drew up in 
front of another modest building, on the steps of which the 
Prime Minister, Iwakaura was standing. The General and 
party descended, and were cordially welcomed and escorted 
up a narrow stairway into an ante-room. The home of the 
Emperor was as simple as that of a country gentleman at 
home. There are many country gentlemen with felicitous 
investments in petroleum and silver who would disdain the 
home of a prince who claims direct descent from heaven, 
and whose line extends fir beyond the Christian era. 
What marked the house was its simplicity and taste. One 
looks for splendor, for the grand — at least the grandoise — 
for some royal whim like the holy palace near the Escu- 
rial, which cost millions, or like Versailles, whose cost is 
among the eternal mysteries. Here we are in a suite of 
plain rooms, the ceilings of wood, the walls decorated with 
natural scenery, the furniture sufficient but not crowded, 
and exquisite in style and finish. There is no pretense of 
architectural emotion. The rooms are large, airy, with a 
sense of summer about them, which grows stronger as seen 
out of the window and down the avenues of trees. The 
General was told that the grounds are spacious and fine, 
even for Japan, and that his ISIajcsty, who rarely goes out- 
side of his palace grounds, takes what recreation he needs 
within the walls. 

The palace is a low building, one or at most two stories 
in height. They do not build high walls in Japan, and 
especially in Tokio, where earthquakes are ordinary inci- 
dents, and the first question to consider in building up is 
how far you can fall. The party entered a room where all 
the ministers were assembled. The Japanese Cabinet is a 



282 GENERAL U. S. GRANT'S 

famous body, and tested by laws of physiognomy would 
compare with that of any cabinet ever seen. The Prime 
Minister is a striking character. He is small, slender, with 
an almost girl-like figure, delicate, clean cut, winning fea- 
tures, a face that might be that of a boy of twenty or a 
man of fifty. The Prime Minister reminded the visitors 
of Alexander H. Stephens in his frail, slender frame, but it 
bloomed with henlth, and lacked the sad, pathetic lines 
which tell of the years of suffering which Stephens has 
endured. The other Ministers looked like strong, able 
men. Iwakura had a striking face, with lines showing firm- 
ness and decision, and they saw the scar which marked the 
attempt of the assassin to cut him down and slay him, as 
Okubo, the greatest of Japanese statesmen, was slain not 
many months ago. That assassination made as deep an 
impression in Japan as the killing of Lincoln did in 
America. The spot where the murder was done was seen 
on the way to the palace, and the Japanese friend who 
pointed it out spoke in low tones of sorrow and affection, 
and said the crime there committed had been an irreparable 
loss to Japan. 

A lord in waiting, heavily braided, with a uniform that 
Louis XIV. would not have disliked in Versailles, came 
came softly in, and made a signal, leading the way. The 
General and Mrs. Grant, escorted by Mr. Bingham, and 
their retinue, followed. The General and the Minister 
were in evening dre.-.s. The naval officers were in full 
uniform. Colonel Grant wearing the uniform of Lieutenant- 
Colonel, They walked along a short passage and entered 
another room, at the farther end of which were standing 
the Emperor and Empress. Two ladies in waiting were 
near them in a sitting, what appeared to be a crouching, 
attitude. Two other princesses were standing. These 
appeared to be the only occuj^ants of the room. The Gen- 
eral and party slowly advanced, the Japanese making a 



TOUR AROUND THE WORLD. 283 

profound obeisance, bending the liead nhnost to a right 
angle with the body. The royal princes formed in line near 
the Emperor, along with the princesses. The Emperor 
stood quite motionless, apparently unobservant or uncon- 
scious of the homage that was paid him. He was a young 
man with a slender figure, taller than the average Japan- 
ese, and of about the middle height. He had a striking 
face, with a mouth and lips that reminded one somewhat of 
the traditional mouth of the Hapsburg family. The fore- 
head was full and narrow, the hair and the light mustache 
and beard intensely black. The color of the hair darkened 
what otherwise might pass for a swarthy countenance at 
home. The face expressed no feeling whatever, and but 
for the dark, glowing eye, which was bent full upon the 
General, ore might have taken the Imperial group for 
statues. The Empress, at his side, wore the Japanese 
costume, rich and plain. Her face was very white, and her 
form slender and almost childlike. Her hair was combed 
plainly and braided with a gold arrow. The Emperor and 
Empress had agreeable faces, the Emperor especially show- 
ing firmness and kindness. The solemn etiquette that per- 
vaded the audience chamber was peculiar, and might 
appear strange to those familiar with the stately but cordial 
manners of a European court. But one must remember 
that the Emperor holds so high and so sacred a place in the 
traditions, the religion, and the political system of Japan, 
that even this ceremon}' is so far in advance of anything of 
the kind ever known in Japan that it might be called a 
revolution. The Emperor, for instance, as the group was 
formed, advanced and shook .hands with the General. This 
seems a trivial thing, but such an incident was never known 
in the history of Japanese majesty. Many of these details 
may appear small, but our party were in the presence of an 
old and romantic civilization, slowly giving way to the 
fierce, feverish pressure of European ideas, and one can 



284 GENERAL U. S. GRANt's 

only note the change in those incidents which would be 
unnoticed in other lands. The incident of the Emperor of . 
Japan advancing toward General Grant and shaking 
hands, becomes a liistoric event of consequence. The 
manner of the Emperor was constrained, almost awkward, 
the manner of a man doing a thing for the first time, and 
tiying to do it as well as possible. After he had shaken 
hands with the General he returned to his place, and stood 
with his hand resting on his sword, looking on at the 
brilliant, embroidered, gilded company, as though uncon- 
scious of their presence. Mr. Bingham advanced and 
bowed, and received just the faintest nod in recognition. 
The other members of the party were each presented by 
the Minister, and each one, standing about a dozen feet 
from the Emperor, stood and bowed. Then the General 
and Mrs. Grant were presented to the princesses, each 
party bowing to the other in silence. The Emperor then 
made a signal to one of the noblemen, who advanced. 
The Emperor spoke to him a few moments in a low tone, 
the nobleman standing with bowed head. When the 
Emperor had finished, the nobleman advanced to the Gen- 
eral, and said he was commanded by His Majesty to read 
him the following address: 

" Your name has been known to us for a long time, and 
we are highly gratified to see you. While holding the high 
office of President of the United States you extended 
toward our countrymen especial kindness and courtesy. 
When our ambassador, Iwakura, visited the United States, 
he received the greatest kindness from you. The kindness 
thus shown by you has always been remembered by us. 
In your travels around the world you have reached this 
country, and our people of all classes feel gratified and 
h;ippy to receive you. We trust that during your sojourn 
in our country you may find much to enjoy. It gives me 
sincere pleasure to receive you, and we are especially grati- 



TOUR AROUND TlIK WORLD. 285 

fied that wc have been able to do so on the anniversary of 
American independence. We congratulate you, also, on 
the occasion." 

This address was read in English. At its close, General 
Grant said: 

" Your Majesty: I am very grateful for the welcome 
you accord me here to-day, and for the great kindness with 
which I have been received, ever since I came to Japan, by 
your government and your people. I recognize in this a 
feeling of friendship toward my country. I can assure you 
that this feeling is reciprocated by the United States; that 
our people, without regard to party, take the deepest inter- 
est in all that concerns Japan, and have the warmest wishes 
for her welfu'e. I am happy to be able to express that 
sentiment. America is your next neighbor, and will always 
give Japan sympathy and support in her efforts to advance, 
I again thank Your Majesty for your hospitality, and wish 
you a long and happy reign, and for your people prosperity 
and independence." 

At the conclusion of this address, which was extempore, 
the lord advanced and translated it to His Majesty. Then 
the Emperor made a sign, and said a few words to the 
nobleman. He came to the side of Mrs. Grant and said 
the Empress had commanded him to translate the following 
address : 

" I congratulate you ujDon your safe arrival after your 
long journey. I presume you have seen very many inter- 
esting places. I fear you will find many things uncom- 
fortable here, because the customs of the country are so 
different from other countries. I hope you will prolong 
your stay in Japan, and that the present warm days may 
occasion you no inconvenience." 

Mrs. Grant, pausing a nioment, said in a low, conversa- 
tional tone of voice, with animation and feeling: 

" I thank you very much. I have visited many coun- 



286 GENERAL U. S. GRANT's 

tries, and have seen many beautiful places, but I have seen 
none so beautiful or so charming as Japan." 

The reception ceremonies over, our party returned to 
their home at the palace Enriokwan. 

All day during the Fourth, visitors poured in on the 
General. The reception of so many distinguished states- 
men and officials reminded one of state occasions at the 
White House. Princes of the imperial family, princesses, 
the members of the Cabinet and citizens and high officials, 
naval officers. Ministers and Consuls, all came; and car- 
riages were constantly coming and going. In the evening 
there was a party at one of the summer gardens, given by 
the American residents in honor of the Fourth of July. 
The General arrived at half-past eight and was presented 
to the American residents by Mr. Bingham, the Minister. 
At the close of the presentation, Mr. Bnigham made a brief 
but singularly eloquent address. Standing in front of the 
General, and speaking in a low, measured tone of voice, 
scarcely above conversational pitch, the Minister, after 
w^ords of welcome, said : 

"In common with all Americans, we are not unmindful 
that in the supreme moment of our national trials, when 
our heavens were filled with darkness, and our habitations 
were filled with dead, you stood with our defenders in the 
forefront of the conflict, and with them amid the consum- 
ing ilrcs of battle achieved the victory which brought 
deliverance to our imperiled country. To found a great 
commonwealth, or to save from overthrow a great com- 
monwealth ah'eady founded, is considered to be the gi^eatest 
of human achievements. If it was not your good fortune to 
aid Washington, the first of Americans and the foremost 
of men, and his peerless associates, in founding the Repub- 
lic, it was given to you above all others to aid in the no 
less honorable work of saving the Republic from over- 
throw." ISIr. Bingham continued his speech, saying: 



TOUR AROUND THE WORLD. 287 

"Now that the sickle has fallen from the pale hand of 
Death on the field of mortal combat, and the places which 
but yesterday were blackened and blasted by war have 
grown green and beautiful under the hand of peaceful toil ; 
now that the Republic, one and undivided, is covered with 
the greatness of justice, protecting each by the combined 
power of all, men of every land, of every tongue; the 
world, appreciating the fact that your civic and military 
services largely contributed to these results, so essential not 
only to the interests of our own country but to the interests 
of the human race, have accorded to you such honors as 
never before within the range of authentic history have 
been given to a living, untitled and unofficial person. I 
may venture to say that this grateful recognition of your 
services will not be limited to the present generation or 
the present age, but will continue through all ages. In 
conclusion, I beg leave again to bid you welcome to Japan, 
and to express the wish that in health and prosperity you 
may return to your native land, the land which we all love 
so well." 

In response, General Grant said : 

"Ladies and Gentlemen: lam unable to answer 
the eloquent speech of Judge Bingham, as it is in so many 
senses personal to myself. I can only thank him for his 
too flattering allusions to me personally and the duty 
devolving on me during the late war. We had a great 
war. We had a trial that summoned forth the energies 
and patriotism of all our people — in the army alone over a 
million. In awarding credit for the success that crowned 
those efforts, there is not one in that million, not one among 
the living or the dead, who did not do his share as I did 
mine, and who does not deserve as much credit. It fell to 
my lot to command the armies. There were many others 
who could have commanded the armies better. But I did 
my best, and we all did our best, and in the fact that it was 



288 GENERAL U. S. GRANT's 

a struggle on the part of the people for the Union, for the 
country, for a country for themselves and their children, we 
have the best assurances of peace, and the best reasons for 
Sfratification over the result. We are strongr and free 
because the people made us so. I trust we may long con- 
tinue so. I think we have no issues, no questions that need 
give us embarrassment. I look forward to peace,. to gene- 
rations of peace, and with peace prosperity. I never felt 
more confident of the future of our country. It is a great 
country — a great blessing to us — and we cannot be too 
proud of it, too zealous for its honor, too anxious to develop 
its resources, and make it not only a home for our children, 
but for the worthy people of other lands. I am glad to 
meet you here, and I trust that your labors will be prosper- 
ous, and that you will ixturn home in health and happiness. 
I trust we may all meet again at home, and be able to 
celebrate our Fourth of July as pleasantly as we do to- 
night." 

Dr. McCartee, who presided, made a short address, pro- 
posing as a toast, " The Day We Celebrate." To this 
General Van Buren made a patriotic and ringing response, 
making amusing references to Fourth of July celebrations 
at home, and paying a tribute to the character and military 
career of General Grant. General Van Buren's address 
was loudly applauded, as were also other speeches of a pat- 
riotic character. There were fireworks and feasting, and, 
after the General and Mrs. Grant retired, which they did 
at midnight, there was dancing. It was well on to the 
morning before the members of the American colony in 
Tokio grew weary of celebrating the anniversary of our 
Declarati(jn of Independence. 

On the morning of July 7, General Grant reviewed the 
army of Japan. Great preparations had been made to 
have it in readiness, and all Tokio was out to see the 
pageant. The review of the army by the Emperor in 



TOUR AROUND THE WORLD. 289 

itself is an event that causes a sensation. But the review 
of the army by the Emperor and the General w^as an event 
which had no precedent in the Japanese history. The 
hour for the review was nine, and at half past eight the 
clatter of horsemen and the sound of bugles was heard in 
the palace grounds. In a few moments the Emperor's 
state carriage drove up, the drivers in scarlet livery, and 
tlic panels decorated with the imperial flower, the chrysan- 
themum. General Grant entered, accompanied by Prince 
Dati, and the cavalry formed a hollow square, and their 
procession moved on to the field at a slow pace. A drive 
of twenty minutes brought them to the parade ground, a 
large open plain, the soldiers in line, and behind the soldiers 
a dense mass of people — men, women and children. As 
the General's procession slowly turned into the parade 
ground, a group of Japanese officers rode u]^ and saluted, 
the band played " Hail Columbia," and the soldiers pre- 
sented arms. Two tents had been arranged for the reccp- 
ception of the guests. In the larger of the two were 
assembled officers of state, representatives of foreign powers, 
Governor Hcnnessy, of Hong Kong, all in bright, glowing 
uniforms. The smaller tent was for the Emperor. When 
the General dismounted, he was met by the Minister of 
war and escorted into the smaller tent. In a few minutes 
the trumpets gave token that the Emperor was coming, and 
the band played the Japanese national air. His Majesty 
was in a state carriage, surrounded with horsemen and 
accompanied by one of his Cabinet. As the Emperor 
drove up to the tent, General Grant advanced to the car- 
riage steps and shook hands with him, and they entered and 
remained a few minutes in conversation. 

At the close of the review. General Grant and party 

drove off the ground in state, and were taken to the Shila 

palace. This palace is near the sea, and, as the grounds 

are beautiful and attractive, it was thought best that the 

19 



290 GENERAL U. S. GRANT S 

breakfast to be given to General Grant by His Majesty 
should take place here. The Emperor received the Gen- 
eral and party in a large, plainly furnished room, and led 
the way to another room, where the table was set. The 
decorations of the table were sumptuous and royal. Gen- 
ei'al Grant sat on one side of the Emperor, whose place 
was in the centre. Opposite was Mrs. Grant, who sat 
next to Prince Arinagawa, the nearest relative to the Em- 
peror, and the Commander-in-Chief of the army. TIu 
guests, in addition to the General's party, were as follows: 
Her Imperial Highness Princess Aimayaura, their Impe- 
rial Highnesses Prince and Princess Higashi Fushimi, Mr. 
Saujo, Prime Minister; Mr, Iwakura, Junior Prime Min- 
ister; Mr. Okunea, Finance Minister; Mr. Oki, Minister 
of Justice; Mr. Terashima, Minister of Foreign Affairs; 
Mr. Ite, Home Minister; Lieutenant-General Yamagata, 
Lieutenant-General Kuroda, Minister of Colonization; 
Lieutenant-General Saigo, Minister of War; Vice- Admiral 
Kawamusa, Minister of Marine; Mr. Inonyc, Minister of 
Public Works; Mr. Tokadaifi, Minister of the Imperial 
Household; Mr. Mori, Vice-Minister of Foreign Affairs; 
Mr. Yoshida, Envoy to the United States; Mr. Sagi, Vice- 
Minister of the Imperial Household; Mr. Yoshie, Chief 
Chamberlain; Mr. Bojo, Master of Ceremonies; Prince 
Hachisuka, Prince Dati, Mr. Insanmi Naboshima, Mr. 
Bingham, and Mrs. Bingham; Ho-a-Chang, the Chinese 
Minister; Mr. Mariano Alvaray, Spanish Charge d' Af- 
faires; Baron Rozen, Russian Charge d'Aff^iires; M. dc 
Balloy, French Charge d' Affaires; Governor Pojdc Hcn- 
nessy, and Mrs. Hennessy. 

The Emperor conversed a great deal with General 
Grant through Mr. Yoshida, and also Governor Hennessy. 
His Majesty expressed a desire to have a private and 
friendly conference with the General, whicli it was ar- 
ranged should take place after the General's return from 



TOUR AROUND THE WORLD. 29I 

Nikko. The feast lasted for a couple of hours, and the 
view from the table was charming. Beneath the window 
was a lake, and the banks were bordered with grass and 
trees. Cool winds came from the sea, and, although in the 
heart of a great capital, they were as secluded as in a forest. 
At the close of the breakfast, cigars were brought, and the 
company adjourned to another room. Mrs. Grant had a 
long conversation with the princesses, and was charmed 
with their grace, their accomplishments, their simplicity, 
and their quiet, refined Oriental beauty. At three o'clock 
the imperial party withdrew, and the guests drove home 
to their palace by the sea. 

Entertainments in honor of General Grant were con- 
stantly occupying public attention. He visited the various 
colleges, and pronounced the cadets of the military school 
as promising a body as any seen by him in Europe. He 
witnessed the annual ceremony of the opening of the 
principal river of Tokio, which consisted of a brilliant night 
congregation of illuminated boats, and the most successful 
of all displays in his honor, a theatrical performance, 
especially prepared. 

On July 17, General Grant and party went to the shrine 
of lyeyasu, the founder of the great Tokugausa family, at 
Nikko, a famous and sacred resort one hundred miles in 
the interior. After spending nearly three weeks, enjoying 
a delightful time, the General returned to the capital, and 
started on a new excursion to Kamakara, the ancient seat 
of military government, and its neighborhood, and in the 
mountain range of Hakone. 

General Grant returned to Tokio, August 19th. During 
his stay at Tokio he was visited by the Mikado, who con- 
sulted on many important points of international policy, 
and to some extent of domestic policy. The confidence 
and reliance manifested by the government and people 
were unprecedented. 



292 GENERAL U. S. GRANT'S 

General Grant found himself burdened with unexpect- 
ed questions in relation to Eastern policy. During his visit 
to North China both Prince Kung and the Viceroy, L. 
Hung Chang, laid before him their side of the Loochoo 
controversy, asking him to use his influence with Japan to 
prevent a serious misunderstanding between the two Em- 
pires. The General is believed to have replied that the other 
side would doubtless express themselves as strongly from 
their standpoint when heard, and, though a rupture would 
be lamented by all observers, he did not see that he had 
any right to interfere. The Japanese authoritieson bearing 
this took great pains to prepare a documentary vindication 
of their claims, which was submitted for the ex-President's 
inspection by the Cabinet. This appearance of over- 
anxiety does not commend itself strongly to spectators 
generally, Japan's supremacy over the Loochoo Islands 
being so plainly defined and thoroughly established as to 
need no superfluous demonstration. But the circumstances 
are interesting as showing the weight attached to General 
Grant's influence and the favorable view taken of that 
gentleman by both governments. 

General Grant had now reached the end of his journey 
and stay in Japan. He had been nearly two months with- 
in her Empire; had witnessed the most enthusiastic and 
the most spontaneous demonstrations of his trip, from first 
to last; he had been accorded more privileges such as no 
other ruler or potentate had ever enjoyed. 

After exchanging a series of formal visits, and a delight- 
ful round of dinners, receptions and entertainments, the 
General and party embarked from Yokohama on board the 
steamer Tokio, September 3, for the United States. 
There were men-of-war of various nations in the harbor, 
each of which manned their yards and fired salutes of fare- 
Avell. For half an hour the bay rang with the roar of 
cannon, and was clouded with smoke. The scene was 



TOUU AROUND THE WORLD. *?II 



O' 



wonderfully grand — the roar of cannon, the clouds of 
smoke wandering off over the waters, the stately, noble 
vessels streaming with flags, the yards manned with sea- 
men, the guards on deck, the oflicers in full uniform 
gathered on the quarter-deck to salute the General as he 
passed, the music and the cheers which came from the 
ships, the crowds that clustered upon the wharfs, all formed 
a sight that once seen can never be forgotten. To the 
General and party this enthusiastic demonstration will ever 
be recalled with grateful remembrance, and was a fitting 
climax of his now historical " tour around the world." 



* Eighteen pages are here added to correct omission in paging 
the illustrations. 



CHAPTER XIX. 



GENERAL GRANT'S RETURN. 

After an absence of over two years, General Grant is 
on his way back to the United States, having sailed from 
Tokio on September 3, 1879, and will reach San Francisco 
about the 21st. During this period he has visited almost every 
European capital, and has seen with his own eyes the peo- 
ple of every nation. Everywhere — in England, Ireland 
and Scotland, in France and Germany, Italy and Austria, 
in Switzerland, as in Sweden and Denmark, Russia and 
Egypt, as in India and Siam, China and Japan — he 
has been welcomed by rulers and people alike, in a manner 
and with a splendor and fervor of hospitality which have 
rightly been felt, by the mass of the American people, as 
not merely a compliment to the General and ex-President, 
but as a gratifying evidence of good wall toward us as a 
people. It is not pleasant to reflect that, while he was thus 
received and honored abroad, here at home there have not 
")een wanting carping critics who indulged in petty fault 
Ending with his conduct, as though they were jealous of 
the honors paid him — fortunately for our credit as Ameri- 
cans, however, this carping spirit has not been general. The 
public sense of propriety has frowned it down. It w'ould have 
been more gracious and more creditable to our people had 
there been no such criticism and fault finding. While 
General Grant was President, he was, as every man in 
public ofllice is, the subject of comment; his acts were the 
proper objects of criticism. But when he laid down the 



TOUR AROUND THE WORLD. 3:3 

presidential office and retired to private life — it has always 
been thought and held that he ceased to be, in any proper 
sense, a subject of adverse public comment. When he 
went abroad it was, as is well known, in pursuance of a 
design he had long entertained, and which he would earlier 
have accomplished had not public duties detained him at 
home. That he was received with extraordinary honors 
everywhere in Europe and Asia was due not only to the 
exalted positions he had filled, but to the world-wide ap- 
preciation of the fact that under his skillful and vigorous 
command the greatest war of modern times had been 
brought to a successful conclusion, and the security and in- 
tegrity of the American Union assured. His reception by 
people and rulers abroad was thus a token of universal 
good will, not merely toward the General, but toward the- 
nation of which he .was one of the chief citizens, and it 
was not a gracious act in any American to raise his voice 
in criticism of General Grant or of the honors showered 
on him. 

The friends of General Grant viewed with alarm and 
disgust certain officious preparations ostentatiously making 
here for his welcome home. The plan of a monster excur- 
sion under the auspices of notorious politicians, when they 
were to furnish tickets to the Pacific coast and return for 
twenty-five dollars — fully expecting that fifty thousand^ 
persons would embrace the opportunity to witness the 
General's reception — and the ill advised motions of other 
politicians, in the New York and Pennsylvania Legislat- 
ures, in the same direction, were in the worst possible taste; 
and it is believed that none of the real friends of General 
Grant took any part in them, but tried to discourage them 
in every way. It was as an American, and not as a Re- 
publican politician, that General Grant received his spon- 
taneous, honorable and gratifying welcome in every foreign 
land that he visited ; and it is as an American, and not as 



3H GENERAL U. S. GRANt's 

a Republican politician, that we are confident he desires to 
be welcomed home. Hence, as before written, the politicians 
ought to be made to keep their hands off. Their help and 
management are not needed to secure the General a rous- 
ing and real welcome from his countrymen. Their officious 
interference, which looked as though they feared that with- 
out their manipulations the General might not be well 
received, was an offense to him, and, if it had been per- 
severed in, could not fail to place him in a painful and 
even ridiculous position. Commenting on this intended 
hippodrome performance, the Utica (N. Y.) Herald said: 
"Manufactured enthusiasm is always ridiculous; and it 
will be easy to make the reception of General Grant ridic- 
ulous in the eyes of the American people. When the late 
Secretary Seward returned from a similar trip abroad, 
where he was greeted with honors hardly less generous 
than those extended to Grant, he had a welcome to his 
home in Auburn, which made a profound impression upon, 
the country, for there was visible in it the sincere personal 
esteem of his friends and neighbors, and the suspicion of 
an ulterior purpose did not enter. Somewhat similar ought 
to be the welcome extended to the first public man of the 
United States who has made the tour of the world since 
William H. Seward returned. We believe that General 
Grant himself will be least joleased with a grand reception, 
lie is singularly averse to the blare and glamour of care- 
fully arranged demonstrations. Notwithstanding his 
remarkable public experiences, he has retained that sim- 
plicity of taste and habit which distinguished him in the 
days of his obscurity. He hates the formality of a demon- 
stration. He has suffered more' annoyance, we dare say, 
from the excessive formality under which he has been com- 
pelled to make his travels, than from any other cause. 
He hates speech making, for he has sense enough to know 
that he is not felicitous at it. It would not be surprising if 



TOUR AROUND THE WORLD. 315 

the ex-President's antipathy to iDarade led him to positively 
interdict any such uproar over his return as has been out- 
hned." 

The Cincinnati Star said, speaking of the same sub- 
ject: "There is not the least probability that General 
Grant will end his voyage around the world by allowing 
himself to be used as a side-show to a circus on wheels. 
The cheap excursion mania is very strong among the Amer- 
ican people, whether it be to visit some famous natural 
scener}', to attend a horse race, or see a two-headed baby; 
and a band of sj^eculators have lately learned how to make 
money out of this tendency, in the Ainerican beehive, to 
swarm during the hot months of summer. It is assumed 
as quite certain that General Grant will give the cold 
shoulder to any such ovation as this contemjDlated, and that 
he will have both sense and money enough to remain 
quietly in San Francisco until the locust-like storm shall 
blow over, and the tired and disgusted excursionists seek 
their homes." 

There is not an admirer or friend of General Grant 
who wants to see the General's return made a sort of hip- 
podrome performance, exactly the reverse of the compli- 
ments paid to him abroad. The object of foreign nations 
and governments in honoring him was to -pay a compli- 
ment to the American people, whom he in a certain sense 
represented; but the object of this excursion, and of the 
more recent political movements in legislature, was only to 
glorify him as a party man, and a possible party candidate; 
and to jDlace him under obligation beforehand to the poli- 
titians who would rush forward to capture him as he 
landed; and to exhibit him through the country as their 
prey, in a manner which would leave the inanagers open to 
ridicule and make a burlesque of his whole journey. 

There was really no danger or fear that the General's 
real and respectable friends would allow him to become a 



316 GENERAL U. S. GRANt's 

victim of such people. That he will receive a warm and 
universal welcome from his countrymen there is no doubt, 
and he deserves it ; but it will not be managed by self-seek- 
ing and designing politicians. It will be a spontaneous, 
heart}', unsolicited welcome from the American people. 
His friends would prefer to see him make the journey from 
the Pacific shores to his home in Philadelphia, as he will, 
doubtless, prefer himself, with entire avoidance of ostenta- 
tion, like a great and eminent, but nevertheless a plain, 
citizen returning to his native land after a visit to foreign 
countries. It would be ungracious in him to deny his fel- 
low-citizens a sight of him, and he has now come to that 
age where traveling by easy stages, instead of rushing 
thi-ough on lightning express, is for his comfort and that 
of Mrs. Grant. He will find in the principal Western 
cities many of his old, personal friends, who will desire to 
once more shake his hand. In a natural way — without 
the distasteful management of tricksters and politicians — 
the General can see and be seen by the greater part of the 
country, and he will receive everywhere the warmest wel- 
come an admiring and hospitable people can give him. No 
sensible man doubts that General Grant's name and fame 
are dear to every true American, or that he ranks in all 
hearts as the foremost American citizen of the day. His 
srreat and long: services to the Union have secured to him 
the lasting, and indeed the increasing, gratitude and admi- 
ration of the people. His sterling qualities of honesty and 
clear common sense; his patriotic love for his country's 
welfare, and desire for the success of our institutions; his 
severe and arduous, and often thankless public service; the 
pathetic manner in wliich, on several occasions, he has pub- 
licly confessed his mistakes while asserting his good inten- 
tions; — all these are known to and valued by the people, 
and it is a sure evidence that, though he was, while Presi- 
dent, the subject of hostile and often acrimonious criticism, 



TOUR AROUND THE WORLD. 317- 

no sooner did he leave the (to him) unhajopy politics, than 
all ill-will disappeared, and he resumed, as of right, his 
high place in the affectionate regards of his fellow-citizens, 
without regard to party. He returns home from a long- 
journey in foreign jDarts, at every stage of which the hon- 
ors which have been paid him by eminent persons of all 
classes have been watched with pleasure by the whole 
American people; but the most distinguished honors of his 
life remain, and will be found in the spontaneous welcome 
home of his fellow-citizens. To them, now, he occupies 
a quite peculiar position; for, whatever designing politicians 
may propose, to the people he is a citizen who has hon- 
orably and laboriously fulfilled his term of faithful public 
service, and whom, for the rest of his life, they will regard,, 
not as a partisan, not as the candidate of or even a mem- 
ber of a part}', but as one raised above party, and who, liv- 
ing in such privacy as such eminence as his can secure, will 
be, while he lives, the trusted adviser of all administra- 
tions. As a private citizen, the most illustrious and the 
most trusted of the Republic, he will rise constantly higher 
in the general esteem and affection, and it will be the de- 
light of all Americans to guard and honor his declining 
years. But to re-enter now the arena of partisan politics 
would be to imperil his great reputation; to weaken the 
hold he has on the hearts of the people; to descend to the 
level of common men — a descent into the mire from an 
elevation rarely attained by any man in history. Those 
who would tempt him to his fall are not his friends, but his 
worst and most dangerous enemies. 

The recent statement made by Rear Admiral Ammen in 
regard to General Grant's intentions for the future definitely 
removes the latter from the political field. Admiral 
Ammen's statement is entitled to much reliance for several 
reasons. The Admiral himself is a man of high character, 
who would not make so important an assertion without 



2l8 GENERAL U. S. GRANt's 

considering himself sure of the fucts; he has been on terms 
of close personal intimacy with Grant during life; the 
circumstances related by the Admiral bear internal evidence 
of the correctness of his conclusion; and, finally, General 
Grant's disinclination to be a " third-term " candidate for 
the Presidency is confirmed by others in a position to know 
his sentiments. Among the evidences of this determination 
is General Grant's reply to Li Hung Chang, the Viceroy 
of Tientsin, when the latter expressed the hope that his 
visitor would again become President of the United States. 
Grant's words on that occasion were as follows: 

" Your Excellency is very kind, but there could be no 
wish more distateful to me than what you express. I have 
held the office of President as long as it has ever been held 
by any man. There are others who have risen to great dis- 
tinction at home, and who have earned the honor, who are 
worthv, and to them it belongs, and not to me. I have no 
.claims to the ofiice. It is a place distasteful to me, a place 
of hardship and responsibilities. When I was a younger 
man these hardships were severe and never agreeable. 
They would be worse now. No man who knows what 
the Presidency imposes would care to see a friend in the 
office. I have had my share of it, — have had all the hon- 
ors that can be or should be given to any citizen, and there 
are many able and distinguished men who have earned the 
office. To one of them it should be given." 

General Grant cOuld not have chosen language more 
emphatically declaring his disinclination to be a candidate 
without being actually offensive to the American people, 
and there is no reason why his word should not be accepted 
as honestly conveying the meaning which they imply. 

The Hon. E. B. Washburne has also contributed addi- 
tional confirmation of Grant's purpose through a private 
letter from Grant, written still more recently, in which the 
latter declares that he cannot conceive any possible circum- 



TOUU AROUND THE WORLD. 319 

stances which could induce him to consent to be a candi- 
date. Botli General Grant's best friends and his most 
uncompromising opponents accept the declination as final j 
among the former may be classed Mr. George W. Chiids, 
of Philadelphia, and among the latter Mr. Murat Halstead,. 
of Cincinnati. Mr. Chiids says thai Grant's recent de- 
clarations comport with his private utterances several months 
ago, and he has no doubt that they express Grant's real 
sentiments. Mr. Halstead also reports Grant as talking in 
the saine way when both were in Paris, and he believes 
the ex-President to be sincere. Indeed, there is no doubt 
that Grant has repeatedly given expression to his desire 
and purjDOse lo retire from public life, and there is no good 
reason to discredit his sincerity. Admiral Ammen affirms 
positively that the General will take the Presidency of the 
American Nicaragua Inter-Ocean Canal Company, and 
devote his energy and ability to the construction of the 
highly important international work for which that com- 
pany is to be organized. 

The story of General Grant's active personal interest in 
the Nicaragua International Canal scheme may be briefly 
restated as follows: 

He was educated at West Point as a military and civil 
engineer. When he became President, he set about to de- 
termine for himself the best route for a water connection 
between the Atlantic and Pacific, and to that end dispatched 
at different times several officers of the army and navy to 
examine the several proposed routes. His investigation led 
him to the conviction that the Nicaragua Ship Canal will 
be the most desirable for American interests. The San 
Juan River, connecting with the Nicaragua Lake, furnishes 
a natural water route most of the way acros-s the isthmus, 
and there will be only a strip on the west side of some 
seven or eight miles wide to cut through. These conditions 
will render the work far cheaper than the proposed deep- 



320 GENERAL U. S. GRANT'S 

cut canal upon a level with the sea across Panama. The 
Nicaragua route also saves some seven hundred or eight 
hundred miles of ocean travel as far as American ships are 
concerned — about three hundred miles on the Atlantic and 
four hundred or five hundred miles on the Pacific in going 
from an American Atlantic port to a Pacific port, or to 
China or Japm. The fact that the Nicaragua route will 
be longer than the Panama route is more than offset by the 
saving in time and cost by the reduced ocean voyage. 
General Grant's convictions in the matter were strength- 
ened by the information he obtained during his European 
tour. x\t the conclusion of the Paris conference on the 
Isthmus Canal, Admiral Ammen wrote to General Grant 
a clear statement of the case, urging him to consent to serve 
as President of an American company for the Nicaragua 
route. In the same inclosure, Ammen sent Grant a letter 
he had received from an American politician, insisting that 
Grant must hold himself free to run as the Republican can- 
didate for President, and also his (Ammen's) reply to that 
letter, in which the position was taken that Grant's services 
in the army and as President should exempt him from any 
further demands on the part of the public. About the time 
Grant had received these letters, he had the interview with 
the Viceroy of Tientsin, in which he stated empliatically 
that he would not again be a candidate for the Presidency 
of the United States, and shortly after he telegraphed 
Admiral Ammen the two words, " I apjDrove." Admiral 
Ammen adds: 

" These letters are of a private character, and I do not 
desire that they should go out to the public for the present. 
It is hardly necessary for me to assure you that the enter- 
prise is in the hands of men whose reputation is unques- 
tioned, and whose interest in promoting the work will be 
greatly increased now that they know that General Grant 
is committed to its success. You know my views on this 



TOUR AROUND THE WORLD. 32I 

subject. They were made public through my letter to the 
Secretary of State a month ago. It would not be 
proper for me to enter into details i-egarding the organiza- 
tion just at present. I may say, now that General Grant's 
wishes are known or will be known when the facts I have 
given you are made public, that a new company will be 
rapidly formed in this country which will include in its 
ranks the leading capitalists of our own and European 
nations, whose purpose will be to construct the inter- 
oceanic canal under the leadership of General Grant." 

On the Sth of September, Admiral Ammen received a 
letter from General Grant in reply to his letter of July 2, 
in which the Admiral urged upon his friend the importance 
of allowing the use of his name as one of the corporators 
for an inter-oceanic canal company via Nicaragua, and, if 
elected by the corporators, to assent to the proposition to 
serve as president of the campany. Deeming it important 
to hear from General Grant at the earliest moment, he 
suggested that if the proposition met his approbation he 
should telegraph " I approve." General Grant acknowl- 
edges the receipt of the letter, and states that on August 7 
he telegraphed as suggested, in order that it might be a 
sufficient basis for Admiral Ammen to take the preliminary 
steps for the beginning of a movement which would effect 
an organization for the building of a canal. He then adds 
that he has given the subject serious consideration, and after 
two days' deliberation he is fully convinced of the impor- 
tance of acting in the matter promptly. He is of the 
opinion that great care should be exercised in the formation 
of the company, and, when properly organized, the neces- 
sary steps should be had to secure from the Nicaraguan 
Government such concessions as will make the undertaking 
a practical business scheme. When these are secured he 
would be glad of the opportunity to devote his attention to 
the work, and would accept the Presidency of the Com- 



322 GENERAL U. S. GRANt's 

pany with the determination to accomplish the task, and 
to that end would exert himself to push the work as rapidly 
as the survej^s and engineering- skill of his assistants would 
permit. The letter merely repeats what the General has 
frequently said to Admiral Ammen upon the importance 
of obtaining the most favorable concessions from the 
Nicaraguan Government, in order that the enterprise might 
enlist capital and secure the protection of the United States. 
He makes no allusion to 2:>olitics whatever in this letter. 

He expects to reach San Francisco some time in Sep- 
tember, and be in Philadelphia in November, when the 
business matter can be talked over leisurely, and definite 
arrangements made for inaugurating the compan3\ 

Exceptions have been taken to the statement made, 
that the quiet purpose General Grant had in view during 
his tour through Europe was to learn for himself what 
encouragement the construction of an inter-oceanic canal 
would receive from European capitalists, if the enterprise 
were in American hands. That statement was based upon 
the correspondence which General Grant had with a prom- 
inent officer of our army, and to whom he wrote fully from 
time to time during his stay in Europe as to what he heard 
and learned on the subject. In addition to this, just before 
he left the United States, he had a long interview with 
President Hayes, which was wholly devoted to this inter- 
oceanic canal project. He explained to his successor his 
personal interest in the scheme, and all he had done during 
his administration to forward the surveys. Pie regretted 
that he had not been able to accomplish more than to finish 
the numerous surveys, but thought that this perfect v/ork 
was a great step in the direction of settling the route to be 
chosen, and that he was satisfied that the Nicaragua line was 
the feasible one upon which to build the canal. Pic com- 
mendcil Admiral Ammen's interest in the project, and told 
the President that he had recalled him from a foreign sta~ 



TOUK AROUND THE WORLD. 



323 



tion and appointed him chief of the Bureau of Navigation in 
the navy department, that he might be in a position where 
he could give his zeal unlimited sway in furthering the am- 
bition of both the Admiral and himself, which was to deter- 
mine accurately and as speedily as possible the best route 
by which the two oceans could be connected for the pur- 
pose of commerce. He regretted that he had not been able 
to do more, but was glad that so much had been accom- 
plished as would enable President Hayes to take up the 
subject in a manner that warranted the hope that, during 
his term of office, something would be done to practically 
utilize the labor of our surveying parties. He explained 
his reasons for wishing to impress upon President Hayes 
his great interest in the subject, and added that he should 
not lose sight of it during his travels in Europe. He was 
confident that his experience abroad would only confirm 
the belief that this great project should be distinctly Amer- 
ican, and would have to be undertaken by American engi- 
neers. So favorably did the President receive the views of 
General Grant, that, when the news came of the decision 
of the Paris Congress, he was prepared to reiterate the 
idea of the General, that an inter-oceanic canal must be an 
American project and carried out by American enterprise, 
expanding the INIonroe doctrine in a broader sense than had 
ever been thought of by President Monroe or John Quincy 
Adams, who is credited with having originated it. 

In explanation of the apparent neglect of the matter, 
President Hayes said that he was expecting, from time to 
time, to hear of the results which General Grant would 
develop in his visit to Europe. One of the results un- 
doubtedly was the necessity which the French engineers 
saw they were under to anticipate the American plan, by 
calling a congress, and determining before its meeting to 
select another route. Then came the invitations to our 
20 



32^ GENERAL U. S. GRANT S 

Government to send delegates to the Paris Congress. The 
matter was officially considered by the Cabinet, and it was 
deemed advisable not to send delegates, but to have repre- 
sentatives, who should merely set forth the work already 
accomplished, and the conclusions formed by the Commis- 
sion appointed during President Grant's administration 
upon the practicability of the Nicaragua route. It was 
argued that, if we sent delegates, our Government would 
be held by the decision of the Congress, which was to be 
avoided vmder all circumstances, and therefore they should 
not go in an official capacity. Time was consumed before 
the Congress met, and then followed Rear- Admiral Am- 
men's prompt action in acquainting General Grant with 
the exact situation of affairs, and the importance of secur- 
ing his co-operation. "In other words," said President 
Hayes, "we have waited patiently for the time to come 
when General Grant would give shape to this project, and 
now we are prepared to do everything in our j^ower to 
promote its success." 

It is not surprising that General Grant has determined 
not to re-enter American political life. A man who has 
had so brilliant and successful a career as he has had must 
have an ambition to preserve it for history, and it would he 
a hazardous experiment to resume public responsibilities. 
Grant has the good judgment to understand this, and the 
poise and self-control to act upon it. He is now the 
"Great Undefeated"; a campaign for a third term might 
hand his name down to posterity as the " Great Defeated." 

The Nicaragua International project opens to him a 
field worthy of his ability. His name and energy will en- 
list the necessary capital and influence to give the Ameri- 
cans the control of the intcr-oceanic route, and the 
completion of such a scheme, shortening the route between 
the Atlantic and Pacific coasts, and between Europe and 



TOUR AROUND THE WORLD. 325 

the Indies, by several thousand miles, will be an undertak- 
ing in which an cx-President of the United States may- 
engage with credit to himself and honor to his country. 

There is reason both to commend and to congratulate 
General Grant upon the stand he has taken. His fame is 
as radiant now as it ever can be, unless some new danger 
shall threaten the Republic during his life, and in that case 
the American people will turn to him with such unanimity 
and confidence that he will be in no doubt as to his duty. 

The reception of General Grant upon his arrival on our 
shores promises to be a magnificent ovation, a spontaneous 
and enthusiastic reception by the people of California, 
without distinction of party. Our record would be incom- 
plete without giving an account of the preparations in 
progress. 

Mayor Bryant, of San Francisco, in comjoliance with 
the clearly expressed sentiment of the citizens of that city, 
has named a number of the prominent citizens to confer 
with the Board of Supervisors with a view of making 
preparations for a suitable reception to General Grant. 
The names chosen by the Mayor in this connection repre- 
sent every shade of political opinion, as was fitting in 
arranging for a demonstration which is neither democratic 
nor republican in its character, but purely national and 
patriotic. The list embraces men of all parties — George 
C. Perkins, Samuel Wilson, W. H. L. Barnes, M. S. La- 
tham, Horace Davis, Eugene Casscrly and John H. Wise. 
Here we have republicans and democrats, men who stood 
up for the North during the civil war, and men who hon- 
estly sympathized with the Confederate cause. Yet now 
they are all willing to ignore political differences, and old 
party feuds, and to unite in doing honor to a distinguished 
American citizen, whose name is identified with the history 
of his country, and whose character and career are a part 
of her historical treasures. As is eminently fitting on such 



326 GENERAL U. S. GKAXTS 

an occasion, all petty political animosities disappear for the 
time, and the most eminent citizens of San Francisco, with- 
out distinction of party, \\ ill unite in paying honor to their 
distinguished guest. 

The watch for the steamer Tokio, at the Cliff House,, 
will, upon sighting the masts of the steamer, flash the in- 
telligence ill every direction. 

Gradually the demonstration undertaken by the citizens 
of San Francisco, in honor of General Grant, has swelled 
into proportions far beyond all original expectations. What 
was designed at the outset to be a welcome by the people 
of that city has developed into a grand ovation by the 
people of the State of California. Deputations from Oak- 
land, Sacramento, San Jose, Vallejo, Petaluma, the far-off 
orange groves of Los Angeles, and a hundred other cities- 
and towns all over the State, and even from some l^eyond 
the boundaries of California, will join in the demonstration. 

The preparations for the event have been upon such a 
scale of magnificence as will throw all previous celebra- 
tions, not excepting that of the Centennial of American 
Independence, into the shade. The unanimity of feeling 
and sentiment that is manifested by all classes of the com- 
munity, without regard to differences of political opinion 
or social condition, is something amazing, and altogether 
unprecedented. The soldiers who fought for the Union,. 
and those who upheld the cause of the Confederacy, will 
march side by side in the procession in honor of the man 
of whom General Lee said: "I have no hesitation in tle- 
claring that, both as a gentleman and an organizer of victo- 
rious war, General Grant hath excelled all your most noted 
soldiers. He has exhibited more real greatness of mind, 
more consummate prudence from the outset, more heroic 
bravery, than anyone on your side." 

A telegram from San Francisco, dated September 18^ 
says: 



TOUR AROUND THE WORLD. 337 

" The preparations are now complete. All the neces- 
sary arrangements are perfected, and everything is ready 
for tlie reception of the illustrious guest." 

The follownig is a summary of what may be expected 
upon the arrival of the Tokio, as telegraphed from San 
Francisco: 

When the City of Tokio appears in the offing, she 
will first be signaled from Point Labos to the Merchant's 
Exchange, whence the news will be disseminated. The 
Bell Telephone Company and the American District Tele- 
graph Company will be notified, and they will inform all 
their stations, and the individuals with whom they are con- 
nected, and the flag on the Exchange Building will be 
hoisted at once, and a line of flags stretched from the staff 
to the front and rear of the roof. The officer at Point 
Labos will hoist a designated signal, thereby informing the 
commander of Fort Point, and also communicate with the 
Merchants' Exchange, and Captain Low, who is in charge at 
the Fort, will hoist the American flag and also use signals. 
Alcatraz 'and Angel Island will be signaled from Fort 
Point, if necessary. 

Signal guns will be fired from the Fort Alcatraz and 
Angel Island from the time of sighting the steamer, and 
national salutes when the Tokio passes from the upper and 
lower Casemate Batteries at the Fort Point, Alcatraz and 
Angel Island. 

As soon as the news is received at the Merchants' 
Exchange, eleven taps will be given three times, with due 
intervals, from all the fire alarm bells in the city. Church 
bells will be rung, and there will be the blowing of steam 
w^histles at disci-etion. As soon as the Tokio is sighted, 
the Committee of Reception, with Jesse Grant and Mr. 
Dent, will go on board the Millen Griffiths and meet her 
as far out as possible, to notify General Grant of the prepa- 
rations being made to welcome him. If necessary, they 



328 GENERAL U. S. GRANT's 

will detain the Tokio until the marine procession can be 
duly formed. Two hours will be allowed after the first 
signal for the starting of the barge steamers of the escort. 

The China will leave the .Pacific Mail Steamship 
Company's dock, and returning, disembark lier passengers 
there. The St. Paul and Ancon will leave from the foot 
of Broadway. Much criticism has been excited by the 
arrangement for towing the yachts, which, as they are the 
most picturesque craft on the bay, will scarcely be rigidly 
adhered to. 

The Tokio will proceed to her anchorage just south 
of the usual line of the Bakland Ferry. 

As soon as convenient after the first signal, the Execu- 
tive Committee will meet Mayor Bryant in parlor 160, 
Palace Hotel, wearing red, white and blue rosettes, and in 
the dress already specified. From the hotel they will take 
carriages to the ferry steamer, City of Oakland, which will 
convey them to the Tokio as soon as sufiicient time has 
elapsed for the St. Paul, China, Ancon and other steamers 
to have disembarked their passengers, who will take their 
proper places in the procession. 

The Oakland will run alongside the Tokio, and 
General Grant and suite will be transferred to her. Mayor 
Bryant will deliver his brief speech of welcome. General 
Grant will reply. Introductions will be in order, and the 
guest and committee will land and take their places in car- 
riages at the head of the procession, 

Dennis Kearney, the " sand-lots " braggart, proposed, 
in one of his violent, intemperate speeches to the working- 
men of San Francisco, to burn General Grant in efligy. 
Just why this agitator wished to burn the General in effigy 
is not plain. Referring to this subject, the Chicago Inter 
Ocean says: 

" In 1861 General Grant was a workingman at Galena, 
in this State. He offered his services to the Governor 'of 



TOUR AROUND THE WORLD. 329 

Illinois in any capacity where lie might be useful, and his 
offer was accepted. Through the long years that followed, 
the Galena workingman maintained a modest bearing, and 
never boasted of his deeds or selfishly obtruded himself 
upon the public. He became the foremost man of the age, 
the most remarkable soldier of modern times, the twice- 
chosen President of a great nation, and the honored guest 
of almost every government on earth; but still his modesty 
did not forsake him, and he never for a moment forgot 
that his country was a republic and that he was a citizen 
of that republic. 

"He is now returning from his long absence abroad, 
and will soon land upon the shores of the country he did 
so much to save. The people with almost one accord 
desire to do him honor; but Dennis Kearney proposes to 
insult him and insult them by a public indignity at the 
place where General Grant disembarks, and on the day of 
his arrival. 

" There are some things that try the patience of a law- 
abiding people very sorely, and this is one of them. We 
do not know where Mr. Kearney was during our long 
struggle for national life, or what his services were; but 
we take it for granted that they were hardly superior to 
those of General Grant, and that the people of San Fran- 
cisco ought to be able to express their gratitude and admi- 
ration for a great soldier, a former comrade, and an ex- 
President of the republic, without meeting insult from 
Kearney or his followers. San Francisco but voices the 
feeling of the nation in extending its welcome to General 
Grant, and the insult which Dennis Kearney contemplates 
is an insult to the country which protects his own carcass 
from violence, which shields him in his freedom of speech 
and which makes it possible for him to threaten this indig-^ 
nity without being kicked into the Bay of San Francisco^. 



33© GENERAL U. S. GRANT S 

We hope ISIr. Kearney will think better of his propo- 
sition, and abandon it. If he does not, the cause which he 
advocates will receive a blow in this country from which 
it will not soon recover. The workingmen of Chicago, 
who believe in the right of Americans to welcome a dis- 
tinguished citizen without a public insult of this character, 
should meet and promptly denounce the proposed out- 
rage." 

It is not believed that this silly threat will be carried 
out, or that any one will dare attempt to carry it out. 
Even the most rash and infatuated of his deluded followers 
must realize by this time that Dennis perpetrated a mon- 
strous blunder when he indulged in that outrageous and 
•disgusting menace. There has never been in San Fran- 
cisco a more unanimous and overwhelming manifestation 
of popular indignation than that which has been caused by 
Kearney's infamous threat. A New York Hc7-ald dis- 
patch of September 14th, says: 

" On the sand-lots, where Kearney belched forth the 
braggart threat that he would burn General Grant in effigy, 
Confederate and Federal will meet and salute the honored 
citizen, and in that number will be many workingmen them- 
selves who have listened to Kearney for the last time. Nu- 
merous rumors arc abroad about the workingmen's party de- 
manding Kearney's abdication. To-day, Wallock, the for- 
mer Vice-President of the party, tried to pass resolutions 
pledging the workingmen to unite with all loyal citizens 
in demonstrations to the honor of General Grant, but 
Kearney opposed them in a violent speech, still evincing 
his cowardice over the effigy business, yet without manli- 
ness enough to avow his folly. It has, however, been de- 
monstrated at the sand-lots, to-day, that Kearney has given 
himself his death wound. San Francisco has wiped out 
the reproach of Kearneyism." 



TOUR AROUND THE WORLD. 331 

The wisest thing which the sand-lot agitator will do 
will be to get out of town and hide himself away in some 
rural seclusion, until the storm which he has evoked by his 
rashness and folly shall have passed over. 



CHAPTER XX 



ARRIVAL OF GENERAL GRANT. 

The steamer City of Tokio, in which General Grant 
embarked for his homeward voyage, arrived in the harbor 
of San Francisco on Saturday evening, September 20. 
The long-expectant people of San Francisco had been for 
some days prepared to give a suitable welcome to the illus- 
trious soldier, statesman and traveler, who, though a simple 
citizen, occupies a larger space in the world's regard than 
the proudest contemporary heirs of ancient thrones. The 
General's arrival at San Francisco completes his journey 
" around the world." In San Francisco the excitement 
over his c:)ming reached fever heat, and the reception 
given him was on a scale of magnificence never before 
seen in this country. 

Every one, during the forenoon of Saturday, was on 
the tip-toe of expectation over his arrival. The city was 
densely crowded, especially the hotels. As the Tokio did 
not arrive early in the day, it was generally believed that 
the General would not arrive before Sunda3\ The Re- 
ception Committee were discussing the propriety of post- 
poning the reception until Monday, when, at a signal given 
by the fire brigade that the City of Tokio was sighted, the 
fire bells rang, whistles sounded, and the thunder of cannon 
reverberated over the hills and harbor, and a general uj^roar 
was created. 

Every kind of business was suspended, and people 
poured forth in such numbers that m a few minutes the 




GENERAL ULYSSES S. GRANT. 



From a Photograph taken in- Sax Francisco, immediatelv upon his Rktuxin, 
BY I. W. Faber. 



TOUR AROUND THE WORLD. 333 

streets were densely crowded with citizens flocking toward 
the ferry down Market street. The sun was shining brill- 
iantly, and the effect upon the decorated buildings, arches 
and flags was very tine. The utmost good humor pre- 
vailed; and, as evening approached, the streets were lined 
with people, and business wholly suspended, and the city 
turned out. 

Immediately on receipt of the intelligence that the 
steamer City of Tokio was nearing port, the Reception 
Committee, consisting of Frank M. Pixley, ex- Senator 
Cole, General Miller and R. B. Cornwall, repaired to the 
tug Millen Grifiith, lying with steam up at the Pacific Mail 
dock, and at once started to meet the incoming steamer. 
The Millen Grifiith stood well out to sea, and several miles 
outside the Heads met the City of Tokio coming in. The 
tug drew alongside, and the Executive Committee, quar- 
antine officer and customs officials and a number of repre- 
sentatives of the press, boarded the steamer. No ceremony 
was observed, except a general shaking of hands, and after 
the committee had announced the object of their visit, and 
informed General Giant of the reception prepared for him, 
the conversation became general, as the City of Tokio 
continued on her course. Soon after the government 
steamer McPherson came alongside, and Major-General 
McDowell, commanding the Division of the Pacific, ac- 
companied by his staff, boarded the Tokio and rejoined his 
old comrade in arms. 

While this was transpiring the general Committee of 
Arrangements, with several thousand invited guests, assem- 
bled on board the large side-wheel Pacific Mail steamer 
China, and a number of smaller steamei-s, while tugs took 
squadrons of the San Francisco yacht clubs in tow and 
started down the channel. 

In the meantime it seemed as though the whole popu- 
lation of the city — men, women and children — had sought 



334 GENERAL U. S. GRANT S 

positions from which a view of the naval pageant could be 
obtained. Every eminence commanding the channel was 
black with assembled thousands. Telegraph Hill was a 
living mass of human bodies, and the heights beyond Pre- 
sidio, the Clay street hill, the sea wall at North Point, and 
every pier-head, were covered with spectators. 

The sun was declining in the west as the steamers and 
yachts, gay with bunting, moved down the channel. Low 
clouds hung along the western horizon. Mount Tamauli- 
pas and the distant mountains north of the bay were veiled 
in a mist, and Mission Hill and the seaward heights of the 
peninsula were shrouded in a fog, but the channel was un- 
obstructed, and the bold outlines of the Golden Gate rose 
sharply against the sky, while the bay itself, with the 
islands and shores of Alameda and Contra Costa were 
bathed m sunlight. From every flagstaff in the city flags 
were flying, and the shipping along the city front was 
brilliantly decked with ensigns, festooned flags and stream- 
ers. The impatient crowds that covered the hilltops stood 
straining their eyes to catch the first glimpse of the Tokio. 
A hundred times the cry was raised, " There she comes," 
as chance arrivals came in view between the Heads. 

It was half-past five o'clock when a puflf of white 
smoke from seaward, from off the earth- works back of and 
above Fort Point, and the booming of a heavy gun, an- 
nounced that the steamer was near at hand. Another and 
another followed in rapid succession. Fort Point next 
joined in the cannonade, firing with both casemate and 
barbette guns, and the battery at Lime Point added its 
thunders to the voice of welcome. In a few moments the 
entrance to the harbor was veiled in wreaths of smoke, 
and as the batteries of Angel Island, Black Point and Al- 
catraz opened fire in succession, the whole channel was 
soon shrouded in clouds from their rapid discharges. For 
some time the position of the approaching ship could not 



TOUR AROUND THE WORLD. 335 

be discovered, but shortly before six o'clock the outlines of 
the huge hull of the City of Tokio loomed through the 
obscurity of smoke and rapidly approaching shades of 
evening, lit up by the flashes of guns, and in a few 
moments she glided into full view, surrounded by a fleet 
of steamers and tugs, gay with flags and crowded with 
guests, while the yacht squadron brought up the rear, 
festooned from deck to truck with brilliant bunting. Cheer 
after cheer burst from the assembled thousands as the ves- 
sels slowly rounded Telegraph Hill, and were taken up by 
the crowds on the wharves and rolled around the city 
front, hats and handkerchiefs being waived in the air. The 
United States steamer Monterey, lying in the stream, added 
the roar of her guns to the general welcome, and the 
screaming of hundreds of steam whistles announced that 
the City of Tokio had reached her anchorage. 

The crowds that had assembled on the hills and along 
the city, now, with a common impulse, began to pour along 
toward the ferry landing at the foot of Market street, 
where General Grant was to land. The sidewalks were 
blocked with hurrying pedestrians, and the streets with 
carriages conveying the committees. The steamers and 
yachts made haste to land their passengers, and in a few 
minutes the vicinity of the ferry landing was literally 
jammed with people, extending for blocks along Market 
street and the water front just in front ot the landing, the 
entrances to which were closed and guarded. A space was 
cleared by the police and marshals, into which hundreds of 
carriages for use of the guests were crowded, and outside 
of that space line after line of troops and civic organiza- 
tions were ranged, while the outside constantly increasing 
throng surged and pressed, excited and enthusiastic, cheer- 
ing at intervals, and waiting impatiently for a first glimpse 
at the city's honored guest. Within the gates of the ferry- 
house were assembled the sentlemen charged with the dutv 



336 GENERAL U. S. GRANt's 

of the immediate reception of General Grant, the Board 
of Supervisors ranged on the left of the gangway, and 
Governor Irwin and staff, and the Executive Committee, 
consisting of Governor-elect Perkins, W. H. L. Barnes, 
Samuel Wilson, William T. Coleman, Tiburcio Parrott, 
J. P. Jackson, John McComb, John Rosenfeld, Claus 
Spreckels, John H. Wise, W. W. Montegu, occupied the 
right. Mayor Bryant taking his position about half way 
down the center of the gangway. 

About seven o'clock General Grant landed from the 
ferryboat Oakland, according to aiTangement. As soon as 
the General stepped from the ferry, leaning upon the arm 
of General John F. Miller, he was introduced to Mayor 
Bryant. 

The Mayor, after acknowledging the introduction, 
addressed General Grant as follows: 

"General Grant: As Mayor of the city of San 
Francisco, I have the honor and pleasure to welcome you 
on your return to your native country. Some time has 
passed since you departed from the Atlantic shore to seek 
the relief which a long period in your country's service 
had made necessary, but during this absence the people of 
the United States have not forgotten you. They have read 
with intense interest the accounts of your voyage by sea 
and your travels by land around the world, and they have 
observed with great pleasure the honors you have received 
in the different countries which ^^ou have visited, and the 
universal recognition which your brilliantcareer as a soldier 
and American citizen has obtained. They have felt proud 
of you, and, at the same time, of their country, which you 
have so fully represented. And now, sir, you are again on 
your native soil, and the thousands who here greet you re- 
member that your home was once in this city. This bay, 
these hills, the pleasant homes about us, are familiar to you. 
Great changes, it is true, have taken place. The young 



TOUR AROUND THE WORLD. 337 

city is now the rival of cities which were old when its 
history began. But the men to whom this marvelous pros- 
perity is due were in those early days your personal associates 
and friends, and many of them are here to-day, waiting anx- 
iously to take you by the hand once more. It is a pleasing 
incident of your journey, that, leaving your country at the 
ancient city of Philadelphia, Mayor Stokely expressed the 
hope of that city for a safe journey and a happy return. It 
is now my privilege to express the joy of San Francisco 
that the hope of her elder sister has been realized. The 
city desires to receive you as an old and honored resident 
and friend returning after a long absence, and to extend to 
you such courtesies as may be agreeable to 3^ou; and, in obe- 
dience to such desire, which extends through all classes, I 
tender to you the freedoni of the city and its hospitalities. 
In the short time allowed us we have arranged a reception 
in your honor, and ask that for an hour you will permit us 
to present our people to you, and we beg that, while you 
remain in the city, yourself and your family and your travel- 
ing companions will be its guests. Permit me, in conclu- 
sion, to express the wish of each and every one of us for 
the future happiness and prosperity of yourself and every 
member of your family." 

General Grant replied as follows: 

" Mayor Bryant: I thank you and the city of San 
Francisco for this cordial welcome, and I feel great pleasure 
in returning to California after a quarter of a century's 
absence. I shall be glad to participate in the procession." 

General Grant was then escorted to the carriage in 
which he rode with the procession. Mrs. Grant occupied 
another carriage with Hon. Frank Pixley, and Jesse Grant 
and John Russell Young, of the party, occupied another 
carriage. 

After a delay of over an hour at the landing, at 8 o'clock 
the Presidential party was turned over to the Executive 



338 



GENERAL U. S. GRANT S 



Committee having in charge the reception. Then the 
Grand Marshal gave out his orders, and the immense con- 
course of citizens, w^ho were ready to take part in the pro- 
cession, were summoned to their places, and formed in the 
following order: 

Detachment of Police. 

Grand Marshal— M;ijor-General W. L. Elliott 

Chief of Staff— Col. A. W. Preston. 

Chief Aids— S. M. Taylor, T. McGregor, G. W. Smiley, C. M. Leavy, W. Harney, 

Lieutenant. Henry Hammond, Colonel F. O. Von Fritsch. 
Aids to Grand Marshal— D. W. White, D. Roth, B. Seguine, W. G. Elliott, Thomas 
Magner, A. T. McGill, Dr. J. M. McNulty, T. H. Goodman, P. W. Ames, 
N. T. Messer, G. W. Wharton, J. H. Thompson, H. Beudel, 
W. H. Simond, E. Carlsen, Z. B. B. Adams, T. C. 
Otis, A. S. Hallidie, I. Simon, C. C. Bemis, 
G, A. Fisher, L. Wadham, P. J. White, 
A. Harlow, D. Bigley, J. Austin, George S. Ladd, A. Laver, J. P. Martin, W. B. 
Larzekre, M. Doane, General J. Harris, C. N. EUenwood, C. H. Carter, 
M. Skelly, George A. Case, C. I^. Tetream, Henry Devenve, C. 
Van Dyke Hubbard, Walter Turnbull, A. Wheeler. 
Volunteer Officers, Soldiers and Sailors of the War of the Rebellion, including ex- 
Confederate Officers, Soldiers and Sailors. 
Second Brigade, Brigadier-General John McComb. 
Oakland Light Cavalry escort. 
General Ulysses S. Grant and the Honorable A. J. Bryant, Mayor of San Francisc*. 
Veterans of the Mexican War, as Guard of Honor. 
Board of Supervisors and Executive Committee. 
Regular troops uf the United Slates Army. 
His Excellency, William Irwin, Governor of California, and StafT. 
Major-General Irwin McDowell, commanding Military Division of the Pacific, 

and Stafi. 

Commodore E. R. Calhoun, United States Navy, and Staff. 

Judges of the Supreme Court of the United States, United States Circuit Court, 

and District Judges of the Ninth Circuit. 

Committee on Parade and Decoration. 

United States Senators and Representatives to Congress. 

Foreign Consuls, Officers of the United States Army and Navy, and Marine Corps, 

Judges of the Supreme Court of California and the District Courts. 

United States District Attorney and Assistants, Registrars in ]5ankruptcy. 

United States Marshal and Deputies, Collector of Customs, Surveyor of the Port, 

Naval Officer, United States Treasurer and Surveyor-General, United Slates 

Collector of Internal Revenue, and Deputies, Post- Master and Deputies. 

State Officers, City and County Officers. 

Board of 'I'rade. 

Oakland City Authorities. 

City Authorities of Stockton. 

Board of Trustees of the City of Benicia. 

Committee of Citizens of Sacramento. 



TOUR yiROUND THE WORLD. 339 

University Battalion. 

Garibaldi Guard, Italian Bersaglieri, Austrian Jaegers. 

St. Patrick's Cadets, Italian Fishermen. 

California Pioneers, Territorial Pioneers, Patriotic Sons of America. 

Delegation of the Fire Deparlment. 

American District Telegraph Messenger Boys. 

Union League, McClellan I^egion, Occidental Club. 

Second Ward Republican Club, Eureka Club, Mutual Benevolent Society, West 

Indian Benevolent Association. 

Oakland Literary and Historical Society. 

School Children. 

Handel and Haydn Society. 

Grant Invincibles. 

Nelly Grant Blues. 

Organizations Not Yet Reported. 

Steam Calliope and Bells. 

The line of march decided upon was from the Market 
Street wharf, up Market Street to Montgomery, thence to 
Montgomery Avenue over Kearney Street, back to Mar- 
ket again, up the north side of Market Street, counter- 
marching down Market Street, south side, passing in 
review at New Montgomery Street. On reaching Sansome 
Street, the procession was instructed to disperse. Prob- 
ably no city on this globe ever beheld a grander sight than 
was the procession of Saturday night. 

The streets were made as bright as day by the electric 
lights, and the decorations, fantastic and beautiful as they 
were under the glare of the sun, looked still more pleasing, 
rich and elegant under the soft and mellow light of the 
great lanterns which the greatest of modern inventors has 
given us. In the line of march a thousand banners flapped 
in the evening breeze. The starry flag of our country was 
of course the most prominent among them, but every 
nation on earth was represented by her colors, and the flag 
of the "lost cause," side by side with the flag of the Union, 
was not the least conspicuous. 

The Grand Marshal and his aids were mounted upon 
the best horses that this State could produce — charging 
steeds, with all the pride and spirit of the thoroughbred 
21 



34° GENERAL U. S. GRANT S 

flowing through their veins. The average Californian is 
large, wcll-forme.l, and handsome. There was not an ill- 
looking man among the fifty who marched at the head of 
the procession. The volunteer officers and soldiers and 
sailors of the war of the rebellion, including those who had 
fousfht with and against the Sfreat commander, made a 
magnificent display, and were cheered along the entire 
line of march. The band played "Battle Cry of Free- 
dom," and an occasional war-whoop, such as has not been 
heard since Lee surrendered, resounded through the streets 
of the city. The Second Brigade, N. G. C, commanded 
by General McComb, the editor of the Alta^ who was one 
of the Argonaut's of '49, followed. Then came a light 
cavalry escort from the beautiful and prosperous city of 
Oakland, across the bay. Then came the hero, himself, 
at the side of whom sat the Mayor of San Francisco, the 
Hon. A. J. Bryant. 

As the General passed, the crowds along the street fiiirly 
shook the buildings with their cheers. The heart of Gen- 
eral Grant must have been more gratified than at any time 
since his name became a distinguished one in the history of 
his country. He has met with enthusiastic receptions and 
cheers before, but it was when his services to the country 
were fresher in the minds of the people, and at a time when 
the soul of the nation was full of gratitude to all her de- 
fenders. But that feeling, were it but temporary, as is too 
often the case, has had time to die out. 

Fourteen years of peace has many a time before buried 
the hero of a war. The commander of the Northern 
armies in the great rebellion must have felt, after he had ac- 
complished all that the country could ask for, that his 
memory would soon pale, too. For, had he not been taught 
from childhood that repubHcs were ungrateful? If he ever 
feared a change in the sentiment of his fellow countrymen, 
that fear must have disappeared that night. He could not 



TOUR AROUND THE WOULD. 34 1 

feel but that the heart of the nation was unchanged ; that 
it would never cease to honor him, that it would never be- 
come ungenerous, cold or distant to the man of its choice, 
H9, two hundred thousand men, women and children cheered 
him until their throats were sore. He must have felt that this 
republic, at least, was not ungrateful to him. He bowed 
his head, a trifle grayer than it was when he left the 
country two years ago, and waved his hat left and right to 
the surging, crazy populace. Never for a moment from the 
time the procession left the landing until he was taken into 
the Palace Hotel did his interest in the festivities slacken, 
or his wonderful presence of mind desert him. He was at 
once a smiling, courteous, jolly-looking American citizen, 
and a distinguished, dignified and honored American states- 
man and soldier. His bearing pleased the multitude, and 
it cheered again. 

The great throng of people assembled in the vicinity 
of the hotel remained unbroken for nearly two hours after 
the passage of the General under the triumphal arch. The 
cheering was continuous on the outside, and the cries for a 
speech could be heard in the room where the General was 
receiving a select number of gentlemen. The cries for a 
speech became so loud that one of the members of the Ex- 
ecutive Committee finally suggested to the General that he 
show himself to the populace, at least, and he consented. 

What the Gerieral said when he appeared will never be 
known, for no human voice could be distinguished where 
fifty thousand throats were being tested, and a mighty swell 
of sounds drowned everything save the sounds themselves. 
The General appreciated the situation, saw that he was 
*' bottled up," so to speak, and retired from the fight a de- 
feated and defended man. He was kept out of his bed by 
visitors as long as decency would allow, and, after the ex- 
citement had subsided a little, was allowed to resume con- 
trol of his own actions asrain. Although he must have 



342 GENERAL U. S. (iRANT S 

been greatly fatigued, he did not show the slightest im- 
patience during the trying ordeal of hand-shaking which 
he passed through. 

There was not a prouder city in America that night 
than San Francisco. She felt that she had distinguished 
herself by honoring General Grant. She had not had the 
experience of eastern cities, but she had done fully as well 
as any of them could do. The General might meet with 
receptions grander than they had given him as he journey* 
toward the Atlantic, but he could not meet with a heartier 
one. 

At 1 1 o'clock a chorus of about two hundred voices 
sang an anthem of welcome at the Palace Hotel. It was 
in the nature of a serenade, and was well rendered and 
received. 

During Sunday General Grant made no public appear- 
ance other than to take a ride in the Golden Gate Park 
with Mayor Bryant. In the evening a crowd was drawn 
to the corridors of the Palace Hotel, but the General did 
not show himself. 

The future movements of General Grant and party 
embrace a grand entertainment at the California Theatre 
on Monday, September 22. On Tuesday evening he will 
attend a reception given by Mayor Bryant. On Wednes- 
day or Thursday night the grand banquet at Bellmont 
will be given. The following is one of the poems to be 
read at this banquet. It is, in its way, a novelty, and was 
written by the tamous poet-scout, John Wallace Crawford. 
It will be read with a number of others. 

Dear Gineral, I ain't no great scollar, 

An' 1 never done nothin' to brag, 
'Ccpt this: I wor one of the outfit 

As fo.ight for our star-Bpan>jle'l flag. 

An' to day, while ver toasted by scholars. 

An' by bi(f bugs as made a yreat noise, 
Why, I thought it the squar' thing to write yer. 

An' chip in a word for ytr boys. 



TOUK AROUND THE WORLD. 343 

'Cos, ycr see, we ain't erot the colatral 

Nor the hirnin' to dish it up right; 
But yc'U find, should there be any trouble. 

Our boys are still ready ter fight. 

As for you, if they didn't correll yer, 

Vou'd shake comrades' hands that yer seed, 

An' that's why I wanted ter tell yer 
We'll just take the will for the deed. 

But ye're back, an' the men of all nations 

Were proud to do honor ter yer; 
An' I reckon, Ulysses, yer told 'em 

Ye were proud of yer comrades in blue. 

For you, we are sure, of all others. 

Remembered our boys in the ranks 
Who follered yer inter the battle. 

An' gallantly guarded the flanks. 

So, welcome! a thousand limes welcome! 

Our land is ablaze with delight; 
Our people give thanks for yer safety; 

Yer comrades are happy to-night. 

We know yer are wearied an' tuckered, 

But, seein' as ye're a new comer, 
Ye'll Grant us one glance on this line, if 

In reading it takes yer all summer.^ 

The banquet at which this poem will be read promises 
to be one of the most brilliant affairs of the kind that Cali- 
fornia has ever had. The millionaires, the beauty and the 
talent of the Golden State, will be represented. It is said 
that at one table in the Bellmont mansion, the old home of 
Ralston, men will sit down whose aggregate fortunes will 
foot up nearly $300,000,000. Among them will be John 
W. Mackey, the bonanza king, and Messrs. Jones, Sharon, 
Flood, Fair, and other men of vast wealth who reside in 
that city. But the entertainment will not be confined to 
representatives of wealth alone, for every branch of the 
arts, sciences and industries of the Pacific States will be 
ably represented at the supper. 

On the 30th he will go to the Yosemite Valley, re- 
maining there about ten days. Then he will return to 
San Francisco and leave for Oregon. After visiting Port- 



344 GENERAL U. S. GRANT's 

land, the Dalles, and other j^laces, he will pay a visit to the 
Bonanza mines at Virginia City, where he will be the 
guest of his friend, John W. Mackey, the millionaire* 
After this he will go straight to Chicago, where he will 
attend the Army and Navy Re-union, November 5, then 
to St. Louis, and then to his old home at Galena. 

Dispatches from Oregon, Nevada, Yosemite Valley 
and other parts of the country show that the grand wel- 
come extended to the General at San Francisco will be but 
the forerunner of those yet grander that await him. His 
coming recalls the splendor of his military achievements. 
The popular heart quickens to welcoine the hero of the 
war, who out of disaster organized victory. 

The Romans were accustomed to give their generals a 
triumphal march on their return from successful campaigns 
of conquest by the sword. The whole world has united 
in making General Grant's trip around the world a tri- 
umphal march, and that, too, in honor at once of military 
and pacific records. The foremost soldier of this genera- 
tion, to say the least, he was a promoter of good will 
among the nations, and especially of the policy of arbitra- 
tion in international disputes. These two contrasting, yet 
not inconsistent, records, conspired to make him honored, 
and we might almost say revered, from Liverpool to Yo- 
kohama. 

The journey, which is now over so far as concerns the 
outside world, was absolutely unique. History furnishes 
no parallel to it. It can hardly be possible for him to reach 
his final destination without being the recipient of most 
flattering ovations. There was nothing partisan about the 
reception at' San Francisco. There were no distinctions 
of republican and democrat. Even the Confederate 
soldiers on the coast joined cordially in the honors, and 
well they might. Never did the victor show such magna- 
nimity as Grant at Appomattox. When General Lee 



TOUR AROUND THE WORLD. 345 

directed the horses in his command turned over, General 
Grant interrupted: "No, no; no horses, General Lee. 
Your people will need them all for plowing." That little 
incident, told by General Lee himself, fairly illustrates the 
policy he pursued then and ever afterward toward the 
South. The people of the United States might well join 
as one man in expression of affectionate respect for " the 
wanderer returned." 

As General Grant's tour around the world is unprece- 
dented in the annals of history-, so his deportment appears 
to have been unexampled in its freedom from the least alloy 
of vanity. Surprised by the magnifitent ovation in San 
Francisco, he embraced his old classmate and fellow sol- 
dier, General McDowell, in the presence of the eager mul- 
titude, with the warmth and abandon of a boy. A hundred 
ovations from the rulers and peoples of the Old World 
seem not to have lifted him a hair's-breadth in his own esti- 
mation. It seems to be as impossible to " turn his head " 
as it was during the Rebellion to turn the flank of one of 
his armies. The attentions showered upon him abroad 
have been gratefully received and acknowledged as marks 
of honor to his country, but personally regarded only as 
pleasing incidents of a journey undertaken with a purpose 
— the purpose of seeing the Old World and studying man- 
kind, their habits, social customs and political institutions. 
From this purpose he was no more to be swerved by the 
blandishments of power than by the dictates of a false gen- 
erosity before Fort Donaldson, when, to General Buckner's 
request for a commission to arrange terms of capitulation, 
he wrote : " No terms other than an unco?iditional and im- 
77iediate surrender can be accepted. I propose to move im- 
mediately upon your works?'' 

Obstinacy and modesty are not often combined in the 
same character. With obstinacy there is usually much self- 
assertion, as in the case of Andrew Jackson. It is also true 



346 GENEHAL U. S. GUANT's 

that the armor of an obstinate character is not infrequently 
successfully assailed by flattery. But General Grant is as 
impervious to flattery as he is free from the vice of self- 
assertion. The career of General Grant is scarcely less mar- 
velous and far more illustrious than that of Napoleon I. 
But, while with Napoleon it was, " I am the State," with 
Grant it is, "I was an humble instrument in the hands of 
the people." Napoleon's confidence in himself bordered 
closely on belief in his own infallibility; but General Grant, 
in his letter accepting a second nomination to the Presidency, 
said, humbly: " Experience may guide me in avoiding mis- 
takes inevitable with novices in all professions and in all 
occupations." Such a confession is rare in a state paper, 
and it shows the courage of an integrity fearless of results. 
To an unconspicuous friend General Grant once sent this 
message: "I am now convinced that I did you injustice. I 
regret it, and, if I ever have an opportunity, I will recom- 
pensate you." In this characteristic of daring to confess an 
error, whether in a state paper or in a communication to an 
humble friend. General Grant resembles Lincoln. The 
martyr President had no pride of opinion where public 
interest or private right was concerned; neither has Gen- 
eral Grant. This quality is by no means jDCculiar to all 
great men. It is found only in characters which, intrinsic- 
ally grand, arc rendered almost sublime by their simplicity. 
Writing of General Grant in 1S65, the New York World 
made this estimate of his character as a military man: 

" When the mass of men look upon such a character, 
they may learn a truer respect for themselves and each 
other; they are taught by it that high qualities a?zd great 
abilities are consistent with the simplicity of taste, con- 
tempt for parade, and plainness of manners with which 
direct and earnest men have a strong and natural sympa- 
thy. * * * Grant stands pre-eminent among all the 
generals who have served in this war in the completeness 



TOUR AKOU.NJ) THE WOKI.D. 



347 



of his final results, * * * jf anybody is so obtuse or 
wrong-headed as to sec nothing great in General Grant 
beyond his marvelous tenacity of wiil, let that doubter ex- 
plain, if he can, how it lias happened that, since Grant 
rose to high commantl. tliis quality has always been exerted 
in conspicuous energy precisely at the point on which 
everything in his whole sphere of operations hinged. 
There has been no display of great qualities on small oc- 
casions; no expenditure of herculean effort to accomplish 
objects not of the first magnitude. It is only a very clear- 
sighted and a very co7nprehensive mi fid that could always 
thus have laid the whole emphasis of an indomitable soul 
so precisely on the emphatic place." 

General Grant's series of receptions beyond the oceans 
was the logical result of this excellent estimate of his char- 
acter as developed chiefly in his military career. Let it be 
admitted that General Grant's remarkable journey is merely 
evidence of the hero-worship to which mankind is so 
strongly addicted. Still it must be conceded that all the 
world does not unite to crown a man a hero without good 
cause. Napoleon ended his brilliant career miserably, a 
prisoner at St. Helena, held there by the fears and hates of 
all Europe. 

General Grant, having enjoyed the highest honor the 
nation can bestow, returns from his triumphal tour around 
the world, to be made the recipient of a welcome as hearty, 
fraternal and tender as the subdued cry of joy with which 
the father embraces his first-born child returning from a 
long absence. 

In the presence of this grand demonstration, this spon- 
taneous outpouring of patriotism and affection, partisanship 
is hushed, and the American people, as a unit, receive back 
to their bosom and confidence the beloved General who 
beat back the waves of rebellion and saved the nation. 

The welcome extended to him comes up from the hearts 



348 GEXERAI, V. S. grant's 

of the people. It is expressive of the gratitude of the- 
nation — of the popular confidence in the tried cajitain ia 
war and leader in times of perilous civil commotion. Il is 
not confined to the Pacific sIojdc. It is not confined to this 
da}- or gcnciation. The place which he to-dny holds in the 
hearts of the people is that which he will hold in the heart* 
of the American people while the nation exists. 

Perhaps nothing will better illustrate the high pitch of 
public enthusiasm in San Francisco so much as the follow- 
ing extracts from the three leading newspapers there. The 
Chronicle had a column leader headed, " Hail to the Chief," 
from which the following is selected: 

" The jubilant peal of bells throughout the city, the shrill 
scream of a hundred steam whistles, and the reverberated 
thunders of artillery from the batteries of the fortresses that 
f uard our harbor and the Golden Gate, have announced the 
arrival of San Francisco's expected guest. He returns to 
this country after receiving the homage of the civilized 
world, crowned with such honors as have never before been 
bestowed by foreign nations upon any citizen of the United 
States. Regarded everywhere as a great representative- 
American, the testimony of admiration and respect paid him 
at every stage of his journey redound to the honor of his 
country, with which, throughout the world, his name and 
fame and illustrious deeds are identified. Thus the nation 
itself derives fresh prestige from the renown and achieve- 
ments of its most distinguished living citizen, who, without 
official position, occupying a private station, with no favors 
to bestow and no patronage to dispense, will be welcomed 
home by his grateful countrymen with such tokens of con- 
fidence and enthusiastic afiTection as have ne\'crbcen exhib- 
ited by Americans to any citizen, or any illustrious visitor 
from abroad, since the days of Washington ami Lafiiyette; 
and it is fitting that this should be so, for, assuredly, when 
this generation shall have passed away, when the fiei-ce pas- 



TOUR A ROUND THE WORLD. 



349 



sions engendered by a bitter strife shall have been tranquil- 
ized, the voices of prejudice and calumny that have been so 
loud against his great name will be hushed forever, and the 
verdict of impartial history will be that, since the foundation 
of our government, no American, however bright the halo 
that time has cast around his memory, has deserved better 
of his country than Ulysses S. Grant." 

The Ca//, after reviewing the glorious war record of the 
General, and quoting his modest, magnanimous language 
to General Sherman, when the rank of Gchcial of the 
Army was conferred upon iiim, goes on to say : 

" What picture of grandeur and simplicity of character 
is presented in this career; what magnanimity, what patri- 
otism, what cool judgment, what clear-sighted sagacity, 
what singleness of purpose, what subordination of all ego- 
tistical and selfish considerations to duty and the public 
good! Here was a iTian who sought no personal ends, who 
had none of the airs of little greatness, who abhorred fuss 
and feathers, who never attitudinized before the public, or 
courted popularity by melodramatic vices; a man such as 
Tennyson has described the ' Iron Duke' to be — moderate, 
resolute, our greatest, yet with least picture foremost, cap- 
tain of his time, rich in saving common-sense, and, as the 
greatest only are, in his simplicity sublime." 

The Al^a CaUfoi-nian^ General McComb's paper, had 
a double-leaded editorial, as follows: 

" The Tokio has come, and so has Grant, at present the 
foremost man of the nation, and whom San Francisco and 
California are pleased and happy to honor. He left this 
State more than a quarter of a century ago, when it was 
but a crude country, known chiefly for its gold and climate, 
and for the inrushing hosts of 'fresh-lipped men,' seeking 
gold, and anticipating a speedy return to the old home- 
steads. He left us and went to the East. Since then the 
scarcely more than a territory with a population of miners 



35© GEN. U. S. GRANT S TOUR AROUND THE WORLD. 

has become almost an Empire State, summing her popula- 
tion by the million, and boasting of her prolific soil, richer 
in its productions of breadstuffs than it had formerly been 
in its crop of gold; and General Grant cannot but be sur- 
prised, if not astonished, as he sees the evidences here of 
that intelligence, industry and confidence which have 
changed a sand bank into a city of a third of a million 
people. We noticed him as he rode through the streets last 
night over solid pavements, which he left as little better 
than sand and mud, as his eyes were seeking some well 
known and remembered shanty or abode of an ancient con- 
struction. But instead they followed up the facades of pal- 
ace-like structures, their windows brilliant with illumina- 
tions of gaslight, electricity, and ladies' eyes from the Orient 
isles, just awakened from their dreams of centuries, and 
rushing forward in the race of a new civilization with the 
vim and vigor of a new-born people. He comes back to 
the scenes of his young manhood, to a people who have 
already built up here a State and city and civilization which 
will compare with any he has visited while girding the 
world about; and this people have shown their delight at 
his presence by a welcome which comes from the heart, as 
a tribute to the foremost man of the nation. And so say 
we all." 



Sixteen pages are here added to correct omission in paging the 
illustrations. 



APPENDIX. 



On the morning of September 23d the Methodist Con- 
ference, which had been in session for several days, called 
in a body on General and Mrs. Grant. Bishop Haven 
made an address of w^elcome, and a formal presentation to 
the General and Mrs. Grant followed. An hour was taken 
up before the presentation was concluded. The prepara- 
tions made around the new city hall for the formal pre- 
sentation of General and Mrs. Grant to the citizens of San 
Francisco were of an elaborate character. The Mayor's 
office, which was used as a reception room, was hand- 
somely draped with flags. At half-past twelve o'clock a 
crowd began to assemble in front of the McAllister street 
entrance, and shortly after the passage, steps and every 
point of advantage were thronged with people. At the 
Market street side of the building there was also a large 
crowd awaiting the arrival of the veterans to fire salutes 
from the sand lots. As the hour for the reception ap- 
proached, the crowd grew denser, filling up the corridors 
and entrances of the building. A squad of thirty police- 
men was detailed to keep the passages open. At a quarter 
to one the veterans — Federal and Confederate — arrived 
upon the " sand lots," taking up a position near Market 
street. The first gun was fired at ten minutes to one, the 
other thirty-seven guns succeeding each other at intervals of 
one minute. The people massed along the line of Market 
street. After the salute the veterans fell into line, entered 
the corridor, and marching down its length countermarched 



36S GENERAL U. S. GRANt's 

and took up a position awaiting the arrival of the General. 
A few minutes later the ex-President and party arrived at 
the McAllister street enti^ance and were greeted with 
cheers. The windows of the houses opposite and the 
housetops w^ere crowded with people who waved handker- 
chiefs and sent up cheer after cheer as the party alighted. 
As the General proceeded along the pavement, escorted by 
the Mayor, the enthusias.n broke out afresh along the 
corridor. Running from the lower entrance to the Mayor's 
office were ranged the veterans, posted in two lines. Their 
commander, Colonel Lyons, stepped forward as General 
Grant and the Mayor reached the corridor, and said: 
" Now, boys, three cheers for your old commander!" The 
veterans responded with enthusiastic hurrahs. The party 
then proceeded to the Mayor's office, where a committee of 
ladies were waiting to receive Mrs. Grant and assist her. 
Mrs. Grant did not arrive until some time after the General, 
vv^ho took up his position in the centre of the room. The 
southeast corner of the room was assigned to the ladies. 

Directions were then issued to admit the multitude. 
After a few of the invited guests had been j^resented to the 
General the crowd filed in, shook hands with the city's 
guests, and passed out at the Market street entrance after 
presentation to Mrs. Grant. All the afternoon a constant 
stream of visitors poured through the apartments, and all 
were greeted with a hearty shake of the hand, the General 
not adopting the suggestion of the Mayor that hand shak- 
ing might be dispensed with on account of the great rush, 
and expressing his opinion that he could " fight it out on 
that line all summer." 

Previous to the salute on the " sand lots," the General 
reviewed the veterans at their rendezvous in Mechanics' 
Pavilion. 

On the morning of the 24th General Grant visited the 
Produce Exchange, and witnessed a grand display of 



TOUR AROUND THE WORLD. 369 

'■cereals of the Pacific coast, which no city in the world 
•could probably excel. He was much gratified at the ex- 
hibition, and expressed in a few words his congratulations. 
After that, accompanied by General McDowell, a govern- 
ment tug conveyed him to all the forts in the bay, where 
he was received with military honoi^s. Upon landing at 
Black Point, General McDowell's headquarters, the party 
was greeted by a salute, and the troops were drawn up in 
line to receive General Grant. At General McDowell's 
residence a collation was prepared, and a formal reception 
tendered to the distinguished guest. Among the promi- 
nent citizens present were Governor Irwin and Governor- 
elect Perkins, ex-Governor Stanford, ex- Governor Low, 
Senator Booth, Senator Sharon, ex-Senator Stewart, Jus- 
tice S.J. Field, Judge Ogden Hoffman, D. O. Mills, and 
other distinguished citizens, generally accomj^anied by their 
ladies. 

Before the reception began, the General was visited by 
the chief representatives of the Chinese community, headed 
by their Consul and the Chinese Vice-Consul, who read 
the following congratulatory welcome : 

" Generai We feel deepl}' gratified that we were per- 
mitted to meet you face to face, and express to you how 
sincerely we appreciate the fact that you have visited our 
•country, and consulted with its rulers, and become familiar 
with the important features of both government and peo- 
ple. It gives unbounded pleasure to learn that you re- 
ceived a warm welcome, commensi:ratc with tlie high 
•esteem your noble deeds fullv entitled you to at the hands 
•of the Chuiese authorities and people. Let us hope that 
^our visit \^11 have a tendency to bring the people of the 
■oldest and youngest nations in still closer friendly and com- 
mercial relations. The Chinese of California join with 
your countrymen in the acclaim,' Welcome home,' and add 
the sentiments that you may live long, and, like the great 



37© GENERAL U. S. GRANT S 

Washington, be first in war, first in peace, and first in the 
hearts of your countrymen." 

To this was added by the dignitaries: 

" To General Grant — We join our voices to prolong 
the pean which has girdled the earth, wafted o'er seas and 
continents. Praises to the warrior and statesman most 
graciously presented by the Chinese of California." 

The General replied: 

"Gentlemen — lam very glad to meet the representa- 
tives of the Chinese community, and receive this address. 
I have, as you say, just returned from a visit to your coun- 
try. It was a most interesting visit — one that I shall 
always remember, and especially because of the kindness 
and hospitality shown me by the people and the authorities 
of China. For that I am grateful, and glad of an oppor- 
tunity of expressing that gratitude so soon after my arrival 
at home. I hope that the remark you make about China 
breaking down the seclusion in which she has been shrouded 
for ages will prove true in all senses, and that China will 
continue lo draw near to her the sympathy and the trade 
of the civilized world. The future of China will largely 
depend upon her jDolicy in this respect. A liberal policy 
will enlarge your commerce, and confer great commercial 
advantages upon the outside world. I hope that America 
will have a large share in this. Again I thank you." 

After presenting the address Colonel Be ■ said that 
Mrs. Grant had done more to break down the spirit of do- 
mestic exclusiveness that reigned in China than the warrior 
had done, by the honors shown her in Tientsin. lie 
begged that she would accept a small casket of ivory as a 
memento of the occasion. The reception lasted till 6 
o'clock; the party returned to the city, and In the evening 
attended Baldwin's theater. 

The announcement that General Grant would visit ihe 
Baldwin theater sufiiced to pack the building to its utmost 



TOUR AROUND THK WORLD. 37 1 

capacity. The proscenium box designed for the occupancy 
of the General and his party, was handsomely decorated 
with flowers and national colors. The programme for the 
evening comprised the "balcony " and other scenes from 
" Romeo and Juliet," and " Diplomacy." General Grant 
and party arrived shortly before 9 o'clock, between the 
acts. A great ciowd gathered at the entrance, cheei'ing 
vociferously as he alighted. On making his appearance in 
the box the audience rose to their feet and cheered and 
applauded for several minutes, while the orchestra struck 
up " See, the Conquering Hero Comes," followed by a 
medley of national airs, accented by discharges of mus- 
ketry from behind the scenes. 

On the 25th General Grant visited Oakland, the resi- 
dence of thousands of San Francisco merchants, and the 
second largest city on the Pacific Coast. The General was 
received with a salute of thirty-eight guns, the fire whis- 
tles, profusion of bunting, masses of people, and display 
of flowers of all descriptions at once announced that an 
ovation was in store for him. Mayor Andrus, of Oakland, 
who was formerly a carpenter, received General Grant 
with the following words: 

"General Grant: Your merited ovations have en- 
circled the world; they have been as grand and varied as 
the nations that have ofl[ered them; and yet, along them 
all there has been no more earnest, sincere, and cordial wel- 
come than the city of Oakland now extends to you — this 
pre-eminently city of homes and of families, of husbands 
and wives, of parents and children, of churches and 
schools. There is no tie more sacred and lasting than that 
of the family. At the family altar the fires of liberty are 
first kindled, and there patriotism is born. Love of home, 
of kindred, and of country is the source and foundation of 
our welcome to you — defender of our firesides and fami- 
lies." 



372 GENERAL U. S. GllAN'T S 

The procession then fonned and moved along Broad- 
way. The enthusiasm of the populace was unbounded. 

At the entrance of Clay and Fourteenth street 5,000 
school children greeted General Grant, who alighted from 
the carriage, passing down one row of children and up 
another, while the little ones literally bestrewed his path 
with flowers, the High School singers chanting a glee, and 
Grant's Des Moines words, " The free schools are the pro- 
moters of that intelligence which is to produce us a free 
nation," hanging high above his head. All the girls wore 
white dresses, tastefully trimmed, and, as the General re- 
entered his carriage they cast showers of floral tributes at 
his feet. General Grant was visibly affected, and every 
now and then would stretch forth his hands to embrace 
some very small child who would approach limidl}' with 
her bouquet. Not alone the schools of Oakland, but those 
of Hay wards, San Leandro, Alameda, and other suburban 
points were represented. A prettier display could not have 
been made. Garlands of red, white and blue streamers 
stretched across the street, while the national colors floated 
high above all on the city hall. 

As the procession passed on again along Broadway and 
Twelfth streets, the words, " Welcome and Honor the 
Brave," in red geraniums and white cand}' tufts, were visi- 
ble at more than a dozen houses. Soon after i o'clock the 
pavilion was reached, and General Grant, with the Mayor, 
took seats in a canoj^ied dias in the center of the building, 
which was tastefully decorated with festoons, bouquets, 
wreaths and plumes of Pampas grass. On the wall facing 
the General were the words, " Honor to Grant," and over 
them the coat of arms of Illinois, sun'ounded by a wreath, 
while beneath and around were shields repix'senting the 
other thirty-seven states. The First Regiment band 
played "Hail Columbia," and the Oakland Cavalry, Mexi- 
ican War VL-terans, and National Guard Infantry, together 



i 



TOUK AROUND THE WORLD. 373 

with representatives of Oakland's renowned Fire Depart- 
iiTient, marched in and around the halls. 

About two o'clock the procession moved on to Tubb's 
hotel, where an excellent lunch was spread. The arrange- 
ments were admirable. Every person entering the lunch- 
room had a ticket, and thus all confusion was avoided. At 
a quarter to four o'clock Mayor Andrus rose and proposed 
^General Grant's health, after which, all speeches being 
taken as read or spoken, the party adjourned. The Gen- 
eral entered a carriage with six horses, and was taken round 
the Fi-uitvale Road, toward the Mills seminary, the young 
ladies from which had come out in full force. Returning 
at 4:15 to the hotel, the carriages proceeded to Badger's 
Park, where an old sailors' and soldiers' camp-fire took place. 
Ex-President Grant was escorted to a platform, on which 
were ranged tables with pork and beans, cofiec in camp- 
kettles, tin cups, platters and spoons, iron table-knives, 
tobacco and clay pipes, the camp-tire lights being visible 
•from the platform. The Federal and Confederate veterans 
had here united to do him honor, and many were those who 
istepped up to the General, and reminded him of " Auld 
Lang Syne." About five o'clock Major L. B. Edwards 
silenced the cheering crowd, and said: "Veterans, allow 
_me to introduce General Grant." The hero of Appomat- 
tox then stepped forward, and, amid breathless silence, 
spoke as follows: 

Gentlemen of the two Armies and Navies: I am 
very proud of the welcome you have given me. I am partic- 
ularly happy to see the good- will and cordiality existing be- 
tween the soldiers of the two armies, and I have an enduring 
faith that it will always be so. I hope we shall never have 
n foreign war; but, if we do, I doubt not you and your 
4:hildren will be found fighting on the same side, and against 
a common enemy. I hope the day will never come when 
it will be necessar'- fcr ut to take up r.rms again. I am 



374 GENERAL I'. S. GRANT S 

perfectly satisfied, from travel around the world, that no 
foreign power desires to come in conflict with us, should 
any difficulty unfortunately arise, that they will always be 
willing to submit to friendly arbitration, and that being all 
that we can desire, I feel confident America has a long ca- 
reer of peace and prosperity before her. 

The enthusiasm created by this speech was indescrib- 
able. One veteran shouted, " That's the longest speech 
Grant ever made." A brief walk through the park termi- 
nated the proceedings, and at 5:^0 General Grant took the 
train at Clinton station and returned to the city, thanking- 
Mayor Andrus and W. W. Crane, of the arrangements- 
committee, for their admirably organized reception. 

The Mayor had previously handed General Grant a 
richly-mounted morocco case containing the freedom of the 
city, embossed on parchment; and armed with this, and 
both hands full of bouquets presented by children, the Gen- 
eral returned at seven o'clock, with Shipping Commisioner 
Stephenson and United States District Judge Hoffman, to 
the Palace hotel. He made a brief appearance at the press 
banquet, then being given to John Russell Young, of the 
New York Herald. 

In reply to a toast, General Grant responded, briefly 
expressing his gratification at the welcome awarded him in 
California, concluding with "The good opinion of my coun- 
trymen is dearer to me than the praise of all the world be- 
side." 

After attending the press banquet, the General and 
party went to the carnival at Mechanics' Pavilion, where 
more than ten thousand persons were assembled. Col- 
onel Andrews, of the diamond palace, who organized this 
ball, signalized the occasion by presenting Mrs. Grant with 
a bouquet composed of the flowers indigenous to the vari- 
ous countries she passed through in her tour around the 
world. These flowers were placed in regular order, start- 




GRAND ARCH ERECTED ON NEW MONTGOMERY STREET, SAN FRANCISCO. 



TOUR AROUND THE WORLD. 375 

ing from Philadelphia and ending with San Francisco. 
The bouquet-holder, five inches long, was of pure Califor- 
nia gold, and inlaid with quartz, and a collection of other 
metals found on this coast. It was a costly present, and 
will undoubtedly be esteemed as a precious memento of the 
visit to California. Mechanics' Pavilion was superbly dec- 
orated with several hundred large stars, the fountains play- 
ing in the center space, opposite the box reserved for the 
Grant part}'. This box was magnificently arranged with 
flowers and flags, satin programmes being provided for the 
honored guests. Seven different committees, each com- 
posed of nine persons, were to decide upon the best-dressed 
lady, the best-dressed gentleman, and the most original 
character, lady and gentleman; the best sustained charac- 
ter, the best-formed lady, the handsomest blonde, the hand- 
somest brunette, the best waltzer, the tallest lady, the short- 
■est lady, the fattest lady, the leanest lady, the handsomest 
lady, the homeliest gentleman, the best-dressed girl, the 
best-dressed boy, and the best-sustained character, boy and 
girl. The prizes were seventy-nine in number. The only 
ladies' committee was that selected to decide on the chil- 
dren's prizes. At 9 o'clock commenced the grand march 
around the pavilion, a miniature mardi gras. Subsequent 
arrangements comprised a prize waltz at 11, at which only 
the competitors were allowed on the floor, forty soldiers of 
the First Regiment drilling shortly afterwards in the Gen- 
eral's presence, and Haverly's Minstrels playing before 
him half an hour later. Midnight was fixed for the an- 
nouncement and distribution of prizes. The supper ar- 
rangements were in the hands of the Baldwin and Palace 
hotel chiefs. Forty ushers officiated, and the whole thing 
was conducted on a scale of completeness rare even in older 
communities than San Francisco. 

On the 26th General Grant and party lefl on a special 



376 GENERAL U. S. GRANT's 

train for San Jose. As it passed San Mateo, the cadets of 
St. Matthew's academy were drawn up on a platform at 
" present arms." The whole population of the village be- 
hind them greeted the train with cheers. Flags were fly- 
ing all over the town. The train arrived at San Jose at 
11:30 A.M. There was an immense crowd at the depot, 
and the train was met by Mayor Archer and the commit- 
tee. Upon stepping from the train, the Mayor, in a 
brief address, welcomed General Grant, who, in response, 
said : 

Mr. Mayor and Ladies and Gentlemen — I 
am glad to see you all, and thank you for this kind recep- 
tion. You speak of my reception by the sovereigns and 
princes of the world. I am prouder of this than all — this 
kindness from the sovereign people of my own country. 
Ladies and gentlemen, I thank you. 

General Grant then, accompanied by Mayor Archer, 
entered a barouche drawn by four magnificent horses. The 
other guests followed, and the procession proceeded through 
the principal streets of the city, halting at the court-house, 
where one thousand school children stood, and bedecked 
the General's carriage with flowers, shortly afterwards 
uniting in singing "America." San Jose was festooned and 
decorated as befitted a rural country seat, the emblems be- 
ing appropriate and handsome. 

At I o'clock the Fair Grounds were reaehed, and an ex- 
hibition of fine stock was paraded before the party. A 
magnificent Australian horse was among the animals ex- 
hibited. The Mexican veterans were then introduced to 
Grant, and it was remarked, "You sec. General, these 
veterans still live." " Yes," replied Grant: " most of those 
now living are older than I am but, when the last of them 
has di-opped ofi", then I must be thinking of departing." 

At precisely 2 o'clock began the trotting match between 



TOUR AROUND THE WORLD. 



377 



Gov. Leland Stanford's Occident and Daniel Cook's horse 
Graves — the latter horse winning in three straight heats,' 
time 3:30, 2:20, 2:33. 

Shortly after 4 o'clock the party re-entered the carriages 
and drove to Santa Clara, passing the old Jesuit Seminary, 
built in 1773, and inspecting the splendid grounds of J. P. 
Pierce, formerly owned by Gen. William Leut, of Bodie 
Bonanza fame. While the carriages were passing through 
Santa Clara on the way back, a number of tanners in every- 
day working-clothes turned out an<l greeted their ex-fellov/- 
craftsman. 

San Jose, where all business was suspended, was again 
reached at 5 o'clock, and here the illustrious guests were 
vouchsafed a season of rest. As the evening drew on, ex- 
President Grant received a number of citizens at the Auze- 
rias house, and at 8 o'clock took place the grand banquet, 
100 gentlemen dining with Gen. Grant, and twenty ladies 
with Mrs. Grant. The party returned to San Francisco 
after 10 o'clock. The whole affair, under the auspices of" 
Mayor Archer, Gov. Woods, T. O. Houghton, and G. F.. 
Baker, was a grand success, and San Jose will undoubtedly 
remain enshrined in the General's memory in connection^ 
with his reception. 

On the 27th the General visited the San Francisco Stock 
and Exchange Board. Pine street between Sansome and 
Montgomery was thronged with people in anticipation of 
his visit. The hall and lobby were densely crowded, a lane 
for entrance being kept open by the police. The Board- 
room which is a work of art in itself, was tastefully 
decorated with flowers, ferns and smilax. Business opened 
at the usual hour and soon afterwards the ex-President and 
his party arrived. President Peckham led his guests to the 
centre of the arena, those sacred precincts usually reserved 
exclusively for the brokers, and there, in an excellently 
worded speech, introduced the General to his fellow-broker- 



378 GENERAL U. S. GRANT'S 

ers. The bulls and bears cheered, and shouted in unison 
for once in their lives, and then Mr. Peckhani conducted 
the visitors to a dias canopied with rich flags of California 
silk, sprigs of evergreens, ferns and verdure in general. 
This dias, a little to the callers' right, commanded a full 
view of the proceedings, which thereupon re-commenced 
in good earnest. There w.is the ordinary hustling and 
jostling of the apparently infuriated maniacs, as they strove 
to obtain their number of shares, at live or ten cents below 
the market rates. Gen. Grant was much amused as he be- 
held theai swaying to and fro. Sellers in pursuit of buyers, 
and vice versa. The General remained until the close of 
the Comstock call and then departed, escorted to the door 
by President Peckham, and Vice-President Lissak. The 
passage and steps were lined with ladies and gentlemen, 
forming an improvised guard of honor, till the General 
reached his carriage. 

On leaving the Stock Board, Gen. Grant visited the 
Anglo-California bank, and subsequently the California 
market. 

About 3 o'clock he accompanied Mrs. Grant to the 
California theatre to witness the last acts of the " Color 
Guard," and at night they were again at the same theater, 
with General and Mrs. McDowell and Mayor and Mrs. 
Bryant. The performance consisted of an opera " never," 
or, perhaps more correctly, " hardly ever," played in the 
East, in which Emelie Melville played "Josephine," and 
Frank Unger played the "Admiral's " part. After " Sir 
Joseph " had vocally narrated a wholly unfamiliar story, he 
was so loudly applauded that, removing his hat and turn- 
ing to the mczzanino box to his left, he sang : 

"And now, as the ruler ot the Q^iecn's navee, 
I am pleased our honored guest to see, 
Who has sailed the brin v ocean o'er, 
But has never seen the good ship "Pinafore." 



TOUR AKOUND THE WOULD. 379 

He's the only man in the world, do you see, 

That has never met the ruler o! ihe Queen's navee." 

Whereat the audience applaiukd enthusiastically, and 
Mrs. Grant smiled. As there were no physicians about, it 
is impossible to give a diagnosis of Grant's symptoms after 
seeing " Pinafore." Suffice it to say he is still an Ameri- 
can, and " its greatly to his credit." 

At 10 o'clock the General visited the camp-fires of the 
Federal and Confederate soldiers and sailors, at Mechanics' 
Pavilion. Only ex-soldiers were admitted to the floor, and 
it was estimated there were five thousand of these present, 
while the galleries were crowded with spectators. Not 
only coffee and hard-tack, but beer, cheese, crackers and 
plug tobacco formed prominent features of the entertain- 
ment. There seemed to be a lack of organization at this 
camp-fire. Invitations were issued by thousands in excess 
of the capacity of the building. The great idea of the 
managers seemed to have been a big demonstration, and 
to that end tickets were distributed right and left, admit- 
ting " bearer and ladies." The doors appear to have been 
placed in charge of irresponsible youngsters, who received 
those best qualified to enter, with fixed bayonets. Occa- 
sionally a squad of men would enliven the scene by charg- 
ing the surging crowd, and those without tickets seemed, 
on the whole, to stand a better chance of getting in than 
those with tickets. 

Crowds forced their way into the place until the floor 
must have contained from 7,000 to 8,000 persons. They 
climbed on chairs, on tables, and many were the break- 
downs and numerous the screams. Meanwhile the sentinel 
barred the doors, and thus excluded men like Gen. Mc- 
Comb and Marcus Boruck. The veterans outside were 
indignant at being left out, grew uproarious, and some got 
step-ladders and scaled the walls, entering by the windows. 
Then sentinels from within battened down the windows. 



3S0 GENERAL U. S. GRANT's 

while policemen withdrew the ladders. Fortunately no 
one was injured, but a very bad feeling prevailed. On the 
estrade beneath which General Grant was seated were 
tents, cannon, and masses of bunting. General Grant, in 
reply to his health, expressed his pleasure at being among 
the veterans. All the orators who followed bellowed forth 
their remarks, and a lady orator, reciting some heroic 
verses, pitched her voice at about sixty-horse power. 
Ladies and invited guests fared no better than any one else. 
It was a scene notably never to be forgotten by those 
present. 

General Grant' s reception of public school children, 
at Woodward's Gardens, on the 29th, was the most enthu- 
siastic ovation he had yet received. Before eleven o'clock 
not less than twenty thousand youngsters swarmed the 
Gardens, while the street cars were jammed, and thousands 
making their way to the rendezvous on foot. At 1 1 130 the 
General's arrival was heralded by a discharge of cannon,' 
and the vociferous cheers of Lincoln school boys, whO' 
were drawn up at the entrance as a guard of honor. 
Escorted by the Board of Education, he walked between 
the files of children, crow^ded in every avenue, to the 
pavillion, where a stage had been arranged for the recep- 
tion of the party. Ten thousand boys and girls were 
crowded in the building, and as the General made his 
appearance, the cheers, stamping, whistling and "catcall- 
ing" were deafening, while from every part of the building 
bouquets rained upon the stage and the occupants. After a 
few minutes the enthusiastic youngsters were reduced to 
comparative quiet, when Mr. Ileister, President of the 
15oard of Education, addressed General Grant as follows: 

"General Grant: Your loyalty to the public 
school system of the United States has impelled the 
school children of San Francisco to extend this special 
greeting. The children, their parents, and the Board of 



TOUR AKOUXD THE WORLD. 3S1 

Education, recognize in you a true and fearless friend of 
popular education, and are proud to look you in the face 
and take you by the hand. Allow me, sir, to present you 
to the children and teachers connected with the joublic 
schools of San Francisco. These happy faces will tell 
their own story." 

Another uproarious outbreak of applause followed, after 
which the General addressed his audience to the following 
eifect : 

" It is a gratifying sight to witness this evidence of edu- 
cational privileges afforded by this young city. The crowds 
gathered inside and outside this building indicate that 
every child of an age fit for school is provided for. When 
education is universally diffused we may feel assured of the 
permanency and perpetuity of our institutions. The great- 
est danger to our people grows out of ignorance, and this 
evidence of universality of education is the best guarantee 
of your loyalty to American principles." 

More appropriate remarks could not have been made, 
and they deserve to be treasured up by the people as the 
embodiment of a great and incalculably important truth. 
No tampering with popular education should be tolerated 
in any part of the country. In the large cities the danger 
of this is very considerable. 

At the conclusion of his re-marks, Gen. Grant and the 
Board of Education made their way out of the building, 
and, following the winding avenues of the gardens, pro- 
ceeded to the great amphitheatre on the other side of the 
grounds. Children by thousands lined the walks, and 
pelted the party with bouquets, while shrill cheers and the 
continual rattle of drums with which each class was pro- 
vided, created a bedlam of noise. On reaching the . 
amphitheatre, where at least 20,000 boys and girls were 
massed, the storm of floral missiles became heavier, and. 



3S2 GENERAL U. S. ORaNT's 

on gaining the stand near the exit, the party proceeded, 
thoroughly dilapidated and crushed in appearance. 

The General took a seat at the front of the platform, 
and the assembled throngs then marched by to enable each 
one to obtain a good look at him. As the enthusiastic 
throng surged by, hundreds of hands were thrust out for a 
passing shake, and the demand for autographs was alto- 
gether beyond the General's ability to supply. The 
shower of flowers was kept up, despite the efforts of teach- 
ers and members of the Board to stay it, and the party 
was almost overwhelmed with these tributes. At least 
20,000 children were present, and, though the teachers 
were able to maintain reasonably good order, it was impos- 
sible to restrain the holiday spirits of the mass within the 
bounds of decorum. 

At I o'clock the young legions were still marching 
past in review with drums, banners, mottoes, and flags, 
while the General maintained his position and faced the 
constant fire of bouquets with his accustomed tenacity and 
pluck. 

At 2 o'clock the General returned to the Palace hotel 
and wrote some private letters. At 4 o'clock he, with his 
family, drove down to Milbrae, where he dined with a 
small party at D. O. Mills' house, returning late in the 
evening to the Palace hotel. 

Gen. Grant and party left Oakland wharf for the Yo- 
semite Valley at 8:30 A. M., Sept. 30th. The wharf was 
covered with a dense mass of people. As the train moved 
off" three cheers were given. The General occupied a 
special drawing-room car, and accompanying him were Mrs. 
Grant, U.S.Grant, Jr., G. W. Dent, Gen. John F. Miller 
wife, and daughter; Miss Flora Sharon, Miss Jennie Flood, 
and John Russell Young. Throngs of people were gath- 
ered at various way stations. At Martinez, a salute was 



TOUR AROUND THE WORLD. 383 

fired, and near the dejDot the houses were decorated with 
the National colors. At Antioch, school children were 
drawn up in line upon the depot platform, and waved their 
handkerchiefs as the train moved past. At Stockton, the 
General was welcomed by INIayor Ilyat and escorted along 
a line composed of military companies, the Stockton fire 
department, Union veterans, and veterans of the Mexican 
war, to a carriage drawn by four white horses. The pro- 
cession then formed and traversed the principal streets until 
the court house was reached, where there was a concourse 
of several thousand school girls dressed in white, who 
saluted the visitors by waving 'kerchiefs and clapping their 
hands. After passing the procession in review the General 
was driven to the Yosemite house, where he received the 
prominent citizens. 

At the conclusion of the reception at the Yosemite 
house, the General retired to his apartments. At 4 o'clock 
the distinguished guest and his party entered the dining- 
room to partake of a collation offered by the leading citi- 
zens. After viands had been discussed, Gen. Grant, in 
reply to an address of welcome by Mayor Hyat, said : 

" Gentlemen: I am very much pleased to be back 
in your city once more, which I have not seen in twenty- 
five years. I am very much obliged for the hearty recep- 
tion at your hands, and will say that, though I have been 
here several times, I have never stayed so long before. 
When I was on the Coast before I visited Stockton six 
times, but this is the first time a roof ever sheltered me in 
your city. Among many gentlemen I met to-day was one 
who was sure he knew me at Knight's Ferry in 1S49. 
While I would not dispute the gentleman's word, I was 
never on this side of the Rockies previous to 1852. I was 
only three times at Knight's Ferry in 1S53 and 1854, and 
think some one must have been personating me there. 



384 GENERAY U. S. GRANt's 

[Loud laughter.] However, I am glad to meet you to-day> 
and can never henceforth deny being in Stockton in 1879." 

Dr. G. A. Shurtleff and State Senator Hudson, spoke 
briefly, after which the company broke up. The General 
and party left at 7:20 for the Yosemite, via Madeira, 
Avhich point they reached after midnight, and remaining in 
the sleeping-car during the night, started by stage directly 
after breakfast. 

Previous to his departure from Madeira, the General 
had a brief reception with citizens and residents of Fresno 
City, and among the number who congratulated him upon 
his return to his native land were several Union and Con- 
federate veterans. At Fresno Flat he received further 
congratulator}' calls from Fresno County veterans. The 
coach which conveyed the party was handsomely decor- 
ated. Thirty -six horses were used in the trip, six changes 
being made. Upon the arrival of the distinguished party 
at Clarke's Station they were met at the stage and wel- 
comed by J. B. Bruce and S. Washburn, and escorted to 
the parlor of the hotel. The Mariposa brass band had 
crossed the mountains, a distance of thirty-six miles, to join 
in the ceremonies, playing " Hail to the Chief." Dinner 
followed, after which an informal reception was held in 
the hotel parlors. The General was serenaded, and retired 
at an early hour. 

On the morning of October 3d the General and party 
entered the Yosemite Valley from Clark's Station, the 
General and Mrs. Grant occupying the front seat of the 
" coach and six," with the driver, fully determined to view 
the delightful scenery, which the visitors said surpassed 
anything they had observed on the Rhine or in Switzer- 
land. Mrs. Grant was even more pleased than the ex- 
President, Monroe, the driver, stating to a bystander, " I 
never hauled a lady over these roads who was so enthusi- 
astic." 



TOUR AKOUND THE WORLD. 



585 



At Lookout Point, whence there is a view of the distant 
San Joaquin Valley and the hazy Coast Ran<re, the stage 
stopped awhile. At Inspiration Point, whence a sight is had 
of the whole valley, the point of view in some of Hill's 
pictures, the stage again stopped, and every one alighted. 
The General mounted the toji of the stage, and sat for some 
time viewing the splendid prospect, and evidently appreci- 
ated fully its grandeur and beauty. When all were satis- 
fied, the stage drove down the winding road and on to 
Bernard's seven miles distant. While going through the 
valley, the General allowed no object of interest to escape 
him. He noted all the domes, roads and peaks, and asked 
Monroe about bights and distances. The rest were equally 
delighted. At the lower bridge over the Merced, a dozen 
blasts had been set, which were fired in succession as the 
stage was passing, unrolling terrific echoes. Nearly all the 
population of the valley, including the tourists, were on 
horseback, skurrying all the roads, at the windows, or on 
the porches of the hotels, which were hung with flags and 
liberally adorned with boughs of evergreen. As the stage 
approached Leidig's, the proprietor of the hotel came out 
and tendered the hospitalities of his place to the party. At 
Black's the guests were on the front porch. The stage 
dashed on up to Bernard's, which had been trimmed with 
evergreens and flags, and in many ways given a gala ap- 
pearance, though Mr. Bernard had but a few hours' notice 
of the honor intended him. As the vehicle neared the 
steps, the Mariposa band, brought here for the purpose, 
woke the echoes of the surrounding cliflfs with " Hail to 
the Chief." Some cheering followed, and there was a gen- 
eral rush from the neighboring buildings tov/ard the hotel. 
The part}*^ were hardly recognizable for dust. There were 
few greetings; all were at once shown to their rooms. 

The following days were spent in exploring and visit- 
ing principal points of interest — Glacier Point, Sentinel 



3S6 GENERAL U. S. GKANt's 

Dome, El Capitaii, the Three Graces, the Three Brothers, 
Half Dome, North Dome and Yosemite Rock. After 
spending a few as delightful days as the General had yet 
seen, he, with his party retilrned to San Francisco, via of 
the Big Trees and ISIariposa and Merced. Arriving by 
special train 0:1 the morning of the 7th, after spending a 
few hours in the city, the General and pirty left early 
in the afternoon, with Senator Sharon, foi- Belmont, where, 
on the following evening, a grand reception was tendered 
him by Senator Sharon. This fete at Belmont was the 
most brilliant gathering that had ever taken place on the 
Pacific Coast. The richness of ladies' costumes, the mag- 
nificence of internal decorations, and the brilliancy of the 
superb grounds, illuminated by thousands of Chinese lan- 
terns, render the scene one of unsurpassed splendor. The 
preparations were worthy of Senator Sharon's reputation. 
Nothing had been omitted to give enjoyment to the guests, 
and lend eclat to the occasion. The picture gallery of 
the museum had been transformed into a vast banqueting- 
room, where, among other preparations for the visitors, 
figured one hundi'cd baskets of champagne and fifteen 
thousand Eastern oysters. Three trains took the city guests 
down. The first, advertised to start at 7:30, left fifteen 
minutes earlier, owing to the number of persons waitin;; 
on the platform. Some of these had arrived at the depot 
as early as six o'clock. 

Belmont was reached in about an hour, and there 
abundance of vehicles had been provided to convey the 
party to the mansion about a mile distant. Considering 
that each train consisted of ten cars, it will be understooil 
this was no slight task. Numbers of ladies carried their 
toilets in ba-kets with them, so that the uninitiated might 
have thought them bent on a picnic excursion. 

Nearly 2,500 guests were present. Dancing and ban- 
(jueting were the order of the evening. 



TOUR AROUND THE WORLD. 387 

At 1 1 o'clock the following morning, Gen. Grant re- 
turned to the city, and at 12 o'clock was received by the 
Chamber of Commerce and Board of Trade at the Mer- 
chants' Exchanire BuildinsT, in a manner exhibiting the 
greatest respect and admiration for the illustrious man. The 
two mercantile societies attended in full force. The rooms 
of the Chamber of Commerce were decorated in a gor- 
geous style for the occasion. Gen. Grant was escorted to 
the platform from the Chairman's desk by the Hon. J. P. 
Jones, and was met there by Governor-elect Perkins, the 
President of the Chamber of Commerce, and Jacob T. 
Taber, President of the Boai'd of Trade. Mr. Jones intro- 
duced the General with these words s 

"Presidents AND Members of the Chamber of 
Commerce and Board of Trade: I have the honor of 
introducing a most distinguished citizen of the United 
States, honored at home and abroad. Gen. Ulysses S, 
Grant." 

After enthusiastic cheers. Gov. Perkins made the follow- 
ing address of welcome. 

"General Grant: The merchants of Saa Francisco, 
represented by the Chamber of Commerce and Board of 
Trade, have the honor to pay you their respects, desiring, 
as merchants, to express their appreciation of your services 
to our common country, recognizing the fact that universal 
prosperity is best promoted by domestic and national inter- 
course, and that through commerce and trade the nations 
of the world are brought in most intimate relations, to 
which great end peace is absolutely essential. They regard 
you as the great chieftain whose military genius restored 
domestic peace and civil law throughout our country. In 
the hour of triumph your magnanimity did not allov,' you 
to forget that the good-will of all our countrymen was as- 
necessary as the success of the armies luider your command. 
When intrusted with the highest office in the gift of the 



388 GENERAL U. S. GRANt's 

people you proved to the world how war could be avoided 
and peace secured by friendly arbitration. We regard you 
as an honorable representative of our Republican citizen- 
ship, more especially to be so esteemed because, although 
successful in our war you have so fully appreciated the ad- 
vantages of peace, while the honors bestowed upon you by 
foreign potentates have never caused you to swerve from 
the path of Republican simplicity and true American citi- 
zenship. The merchants of San Francisco welcome you 
to your native land, wishing you a happy return to your 
home, many years of happiness, and an old age which shall 
command the continued honor and the reverence of your 
countrymen," 

General Grant replied as follows: 

" Gentlemen of the Chamber of Commerce and 
Board of Trade of San Francisco: I hardly know 
how to express my gratification at the kind and cordial 
reception you, and not only you, but the people in every 
place in the State and city that I have visited have given 
me. There is no question but that the prosperity of the 
country depends upon the class of people you gentlemen 
represent. It requires just such people as we see here to 
make it profitable for a man to labor with his hands; also, 
to make profits for the whole nation. Anybody who has 
been over the world as I have, has seen the degradation to 
which laborers have fallen without some head to guide 
them into the right course. In other countries the laborer 
is sunk far below the poorest and most abject citizen of this 
country. We have not a healthy person in America who 
is willing to work, who is not better off than the best 
laborers in any other country. We need not be envious 
or jealous of ;iny country in the world." 

Applause and hand shaking followed. 

A scroll on which the address of the two associations 
was engrossed in a handsome manner, signed by the 



TOUR AROUND THE WORLD. 3S9 

presidents and secretaries, was presented to the General, 
enclosed in a beautiful cylindrical case of Russia leather, 
with this inscription embossed in gold lettei's: 

" To General U. S. Grant, from the Chamber of Com- 
merce and Board of Trade of San Francisco." 

After leaving the Merchants' Exchange the General 
drove to the Palace Hotel, and thence to Front street 
wharf, where a vast crowd had gathered to see him depart 
on the steamer St. Paul for Oregon. 

The steamer and all other shipping in the vicinity were 
gayly decorated. As General Grant went aboard a beau- 
tiful American flag was run up to the masthead. There 
was no cheering among the people, who seemed sorry to 
have him go. Many distinguished people went on board 
to bid him good-by. The party from the tug, besides the 
General and his wife, included, among others, U. S. Grant, 
Jr., Miss Jennie Flood, ex-Governor Low, wife and daugh- 
ter. Senators J. P. Jones and A. A. Sargent, Lieutenant 
Otis, Jolm Russell Young, Louis Sloss, Captain Niebaum, 
Martin Bulger, Fred. Kabe, C. F. Crocker and Mrs. Mc- 
Dowell and daughter. 

At 2:15 the St. Paul swung gracefully out from the 
wharf, amid waving of handkerchiefs, quiet farewells, and 
admiring remarks of the people. 

The steamer St. Paul, with General Grant and party 
on board, arrived at Portland, Oregon, on the 14th, the 
citizens' committee and members of the press, having joined 
the General at Vancouver. Just before leaving the wharf 
at the latter place for Portland, the Honorable H. W. Cor- 
bitt, chairman of the committee of reception, made the fol- 
lowing address of welcome: 

General Grant: I take pleasure in introducing 
to you this committee, and these distinguished officers 
and gentlemen. We come to welcome you, and tender 
you the hospitalities of the citizens of Portland; also to 



390 GENERAL U. S, GRANt's 

the friends that accompany you. We evidently do not 
now welcome the Lieutenant that left us twenty-six years 
ago; neither can we receive you as a Lieutenant-General, 
or as a General of the once great army of the Republic, 
nor as President of these once more united States; but we 
do receive you as a pre-eminently distinguished citizen, 
who has enjoyed all these honors, who has won so many lau- 
rels, and who has worn them with so much modesty and 
grace. It will be the pleasing duty of another to express 
more fully our sentiments, at the general reception tendered 
you Wednesday evening at our new pavilion, where we 
shall have the pleasure of presenting to you friends and 
citizens from all parts of the State and the adjoining terri- 
tory, who desire personally to testify their appreciation of 
you and your valuable services to the nation. You are 
welcome, thrice welcome, to Oregon. It will give us 
pleasure to escort you to our city at your earliest conven- 
ience, where we hope to make your stay pleasant and agree- 
able. 

General Grant replied in a few words, simply express- 
ing his thanks. 

At least twenty thousand persons had assembled in the 
vicinity of the dock, awaiting the arrival of the distin- 
guished guest, amid the thunders of artillery, the clangor 
of bells and the screaming of whistles, the St. Paul came 
alongside her dock. 

General Grant was met at the wharf by Mayor Thomp- 
son, who said: "General Grant, as Mayor of the city of 
Portland, on behalf of the citizens of this city, we extend 
to you welcome, and tender you the hospitalities of Port- 
land." 

General Grant simply replied: " Mayor Thompson, I 
thank you." 

The ])arty were tlien escorted to carriages in waiting. 
The procession, under charge of Grand Marshal Colonel. 



TOUR AROUND THE WORLD. 39I 

McCracken, at once formed in the following order: Grand 
Marshal and aides, Twenty-first Regimental band, carriage 
containing General Grant, Mayor D. P. Thompson, Gov- 
ernor W. W. Thayer, and General O. O. Howard. The 
first division consisted of forty carriages containing promi- 
nent visitors and officials, Federal, State and military. Fol- 
lowing these came carriages containing officers of the Munic- 
ipal Government of Portland and East Portland, members 
of the Washington Territorial Legislature, and many other 
invited guests from abroad. The second division comprised 
various military companies, United States troops, and four 
militia companies of this city. The third division consisted 
of the entire Fire Department of Portland, five companies 
with their steam engines gayly trimmed and decked with 
flags and ribbons. The fourth division was composed of 
members of the Grand Army, civic societies and citizens. 

The procession arriving opposite the Central school 
building, were met by two thousand or more school child- 
ren, who were ranged along the sidewalk, dressed In gay 
holiday attire. When the carriage containing General 
Grant came opposite the centre column, the pupils' proces- 
sion halted. Four little girls, ea;ch bearing in her hand a 
large and elegant bouquet, stepped forward from the front 
line and ^advanced to the carriage In which General Grant 
sat, and presented him with the floral offerings. He took 
the tributes and bowed his thanks. When the quartet 
withdrew and resumed their places in line, two thousand 
childish voices immediately struck up the National anthem 
" America." At the close of the singing, the Twenty-first 
Regiment band responded, and rendered an appropriate 
air. 

The procession then resumed Its line of march. These 
exercises were witnessed by many thousands, and consti- 
tuted one of the most pleasing and attractive episodes of 
the day's demonstration. Continuing the line line of march, 



392 GENERAL U. S. GRANT's 

the procession moved down Morrison to Front, and down 
that street to the Clarendon hotel, where Genei^al Grant 
and party stopped. The city was attired in gay holiday 
trappings. Front and First streets presented to the eye a 
perfect wilderness of flags and bunting for nearly a mile. 
Shipping in the port displayed a profusion of flags and 
streamers on every hand. Enthusiasm assumed a form 
quite extravagant. For hours before the procession 
moved, and during the time it was ni motion, the streets 
were jammed for many blocks by eager and enthusiastic 
thousands. At times the streets were so crowded that the 
procession moved with difficulty. 

In the evening the General visited the Mechanics' 
Pavillion, and attended a ball, at which one thousand per- 
sons were present. Here he met many old comrades in 
arms. 

Late in the afternoon of the 15th, General Grant vis- 
ited, by special invitation, several public schools in the city 
in company with Mayor Thompson. Short addresses 
were made by the children, to which the General res- 
ponded. On taking his leave Grant was heartily cheered 
by the children. 

In the evening he was honored with a reception at the 
Cascades, which was an enthusiastic and fitting tribute. 
Eight thousand persons were present. Ex-Senator Corbitt 
welcomed the distinguished party, and was followed by 
Judge Strong in a most hearty manner. General Grant 
resjDonded at some length, alluding to his early residence 
and acquaintance on the Pacific Coast. He concluded: 

" In your remarks you have alluded to the struggles of 
the past. I am glad that they are at an end. It never was 
a ])lcasure to me that they had a beginning. The result 
has left us a nation to be proud of, strong at home, and 
respected abroad. Our reputation has extended beyond the 
civilized nations; it has penetrated even in the less civilized 



TOUU AlIOUNI) THE WORLD. 393 

j)arts of the earth. In my travels I have noticed that for- 
eign nations appear to respect us more than we respect 
ourselves. I have noticed the grandeur at which we have 
heen estimated by other powers, and their judgments 
should give us a higher estimate of our own greatness. 
They recognize that poverty, as they understand it, is not 
known with us. And the man of comparative affluence, 
with them, is sometimes no better clad or fed tiian our pau- 
per. Nowhere are there better elements of success than 
on the Pacific Coast. Here those who fought on opposite 
sides during the war are now peacefully associated together 
in a country of which they all have the same right to be 
proud. I thank the people again, through you. Judge 
Strong, for this reception." 

At the conclusion of the response. General Grant was 
presented to the citizens. He remained at the Pavillion 
about an hour, during which time thousands came forward 
and shook hands with the guest. On leaving the Pavillion 
the party proceeded to the Newmarket theatre to witness 
a rendition of the military drama, " Ours." 

On the 1 6th, the General and party visited Salem. 
They w'ere met at the depot by a large crowd of citi- 
zens. Members of the Common Council acted as a com- 
mittee of reception, and were in waiting at the depot. 
Mayor G. W. Gray met the Ex-President at the platform,, 
and delivered a brief address of welcome, to which a very 
short response was made. The entire party then entered 
carriages and proceeded to the hotel. As the procession 
filed past the court house, General Grant was saluted bv 
pupils with hearty cheers. The procession marched on to 
the hotel, and reaching which, the party alighted from the 
carriages and were conducted into the parlor. An address 
of welcome was delivered by S. C. Adams, to which the 
Ex-President responded in brief and fitting terms. The 
doors of the parlor of the hotel were thrown open, and a 



394 



GENERAL U. S. GKANT's 



general public reception followed. The reception lasted 
iibout an hour, during which time over one thousand per- 
sons passed through the room and were presented to Gen- 
eral Grant and the other members of the party. At two 
o'clock the reception ended, and the guests were escorted 
to the dining room, where a collation was spread; about 
one hundred and fifty persons sat down to the lunch. 
Among the party were Governor Thayer, R. P. Earhart, 
Secretary of State, and other State officials. Lunch being 
over, the j^'^^i'tj took carriages, and, preceded by bands, 
marched to the depot, and took a special train for Portland 
iit four o'clock. Salem was handsomely decorated in 
hoiior of the event, and great enthusiasm was manifested. 
General Grant stated that it was the first time he had ever 
visited the city, and expressed himself as being gratified 
with its handsome, thrifty apjDearance, and the hearty wel- 
come accorded him. 

At Gervais the citizens assembled at the depot, and 
gave General Grant a hearty welcome. Flags were dis- 
played from many buildings. The train stopped for only a 
few minutes. At Aurora a like enthusiastic welcome was 
given. At Oregon City over one thousand persons had 
gathered at the depot, and received him with deafening 
cheers and strains of music. ]Mayor Randall appeared on 
the platform, and in a few appropriate words welcomed 
the General, who responded by thanking him. The train 
stopped but a few moments, but hundreds improved the 
opportunity to shake hands with him. 

In the evening he attended a grand sacred concert at 
Turn Halle, given by the Handel and Hayden Society, and 
the following day the entire party sailed on the steamer 
St. Paul for San Fi'ancisco. 

On the morning of October 21, the steamer St. Paul, 
with General Grant and party on board, arrived at San 
Francisco, and the same evening they attended a reception 



TOt/K AROUND THE WOULD. 395 

at the residence of Cliai'les Crocker. The house was ele- 
gantly decorated for the occasion, and a brilHaiit company 
numbering nearly eight hundred were present. 

On the 23d, the General and party visited Vallejo, 
inspected the Mare Island works, and then boarded the 
train for Sacramento, arriving there at one o'clock, p. m. 
All along the route they were heartily greeted at stations, 
and a large concourse of people was at the dej^ot when the 
train arrived at Sacramento. A procession was formed 
which competely filled the neighboring streets. Gov. Irwin 
and Mayor Turner escorted their distinguished visitor to 
a carriage; after marching through the j^rincipal streets, the 
procession halted at the Capitol, where the Hon. Henry 
Kdgerton delivered an address of welcome. 

General Grant responded, thanking the people of the citv 
and State for their warm reception, which \vas alike at 
every place on the coast which he had visited. He said : 
*'. Of all the hospitality bestowed, all the honor conferred, 
there has been nothing so grateful to my heart as the recep- 
tions I have received at the hands of the people here. I 
would not say what has been clone abroad. It has been 
all that could be done for mortal, but it has not been done 
for me. It has been done for the people whom I see before 
me, — for the people of a great country that is recognized 
abroad as one of the greatest countries of the world. If we 
all — every one of us — could see other countries, as I have 
seen them, we would all make better citizens, or, at least, 
the average of our citizens would be better." 

In the evening. General Grant received in the Assembly 
room, and Mrs. Grant in the »Senate Chamber. Twenty 
thousand people were in and about the building, which, 
with the grounds, was brilliantly illuminated with calcium 
lights, while fii'eworks were generally displayed during the 
passage of the party to and from the Capitol. Nine 
thousand people shook hands with the General. 



396 GENERAL U. S. GRANx's 

At ten o'clock the following morning, General Grant 
and invited guests visited the Grammar school to meet the 
veteran soldiers and sailors and their families. He was 
introduced, and informally passed around the room, shaking 
hands with them. The children filed in and sang 
" America." 

After lunch, the party proceeded to Pioneer Hall, where 
General Grant was presented with a certificate of member- 
ship in the Sacramento Society of Pioneers. The General 
returned thanks for the honor conferred, stating that he 
supposed his early participation in the struggles which made 
California a State had made him eligible as a Pioneer. Pie 
paid a warm compliment to California and her people. 

Members of the society and their families were then 
joresented. 

The next place visited was Agricultural Park, where a 
grand military review and sham battle took place. Gen- 
eral Grant there, as elsewhere during the day, entered with 
zest and spirit into tlie entertainment. 

General and Mrs. Grant returned to San Francisco on 
the 24th. At 2 p. M., the General visited the hall of the 
California Pioneers, and was made a member; thence to 
the Mexican War Veteran's headquarters, and dined with 
Mayor Bryant. In the evening he attended the Pioneers' 
banquet at the Lick House. 

Notwithstanding the lengthy stay of General Grant on 
the Pacific coast, the excitement continued as intense as 
when he arrived five weeks before. Every thing possible 
was done to show him personal respect; and even more 
than this was done to express to the distinguished guest a 
national appreciation of his past services to his country. 
People of all classes and political parties vied with each 
other in their attentions showered upon him. At the resi- 
dences of Senator Sharon, Charles Crocker, Mayor Bryant 



TOUR AROUND THE WORLD. 397 

and at the Palace Hotel, elegant entertainments were 
given him, and everywhere even more than imperial 
honors were paid him. He was made an honorary mem- 
ber of the California Pioneers, of the St. Andrews, Cale- 
donian, Army and Navy Clubs, and, in fact, of every 
organization of note on the coast. Wherever he appeared 
he was greeted by an ovation. Fifty thousand people 
attended his public reception at the City Hall, while at 
Sacramento and Oakland the citizens turned out en masse 
on the occasion of his visit to those cities. Elegant, costly 
testimonials of regard were presented to the General and 
Mrs. Grant frotn admiring friends. 

In the afternoon of the 23th, the General and party, 
with Mayor Bryant, Senator Sharon, and Charles Crocker 
attended an exhibition trot at Oakland, where a large 
crowd greeted the ex-President with cheers. The first 
trot was a field of eight trotters; between the heats St. 
Julian was brought out to beat the best time made by 
Rarus. At the word he passed under the wire at a square 
trot, and for the entire mile made not a slip, finishing in the 
unprecedented time of 2:12^. The result was received 
with prolonged cheering, the General joining with the 
rest. 

In the evening, before his departure for Nevada, a ban- 
quet, more elegant, more numerously attended than any 
ever before given in that city, was tendered him at the 
Palace Hotel. Invitations were issued to the representa- 
tive men of the coast, and the result was that the banqueting 
hall was a perfect congress of learned and honored men. 
The banquet was held in the magnificent dining rooms ot 
the hotel. These were gorgeously decorated for the occa- 
sion. Rare exotics and flowering plants were there in full 
bloom, the odor from which permeated the air. Mayor 
Bryant presided, and toasted the guest of the evening in 



398 GENERAL U. S. GRANt's 

an appropriate speech, to which the General responded 
as follows: 

Gentlemen of San Francisco: The unbounded 
hospitality and cordiality with which I have been received 
since I first put my foot on the soil of Califox-nia has taken 
■deep root in my heart. It was more than I could have 
expected; and, while it entailed some little fatigue at times, 
I assure you I have been grateful for it. I have previously 
been in California and on the Pacific coast, but have been 
away a quarter of a century, and when I landed here the 
last time, I found that none of the pioneers had grown 
old, but if I should remain away another quarter of a cen- 
tury, I might be compelled to confess that some of you had 
grown old; and I want to see you again in your prime and 
youth. 

Gentlemen, in taking my departure, I want to thank 
you all for the farewell reception given me this evening, 
and to express the hope that whether or not I am to have 
the happiness ever to visit your city again, I shall, at least, 
meet one and all of you elsewhere, and if it should not be 
in this life, that it may be in a better countiy. 

At half j^ast eleven o'clock at night, the General's party 
bade good-bye. The company took a special train for 
Nevada, being accompanied to the depot by many citizens. 

General Grant's party arrived at Truck ee station at 
about noon the following day. From this point they visited 
Lake Tahoc — one of the most beautiful places on the 
Pacific coast. 

On arrival at the lake, the party was met by a number 
of ladies and gentlemen from Carson. General Edwards 
made a brief speech of welcome, after which the party took 
passage on a small steamer, and in an hour were landed 
at Glenbrook, where an open train, with two engines richly 
decorated, climbed up the mountain side, giving the guests 
a most ma<;nificent view of the forest lake. 



Toui? AKouM) Till-: \\o:u D. 399 

At Summit, only three miles distant from the lake, as 
the bird flies, but nine by rail, carriages were in waiting,, 
and Hank Monk, of Horace Greeley notoriety, with four 
prancing greys, drove the General to the capitol of Nevada^ 
On arrival there, the city seemed in a blaze. On the prin- 
cipal streets were bonfires twenty feet apart, which gave 
pleasant warmth to the welcome. 

On the 27th, the General visited Virginia City. As 
the train approached the city, they were greeted with a 
chorus of whistles, salutes, firing, anvils and shouts. There 
was a terrific jam at the depot. Mayor Young delivered an 
address of welcome, extending the warm hospitality of a min- 
ing town, the heaits of whose people would on acquaintance 
prove, like the mines, to be warmer as they are explored. Gen- 
eral Grant replied with a bow and word of acknowledgment. 
H e was escorted to a carnage, the military forming a hollow 
square about him ; the procession moving through the prin- 
cipal streets, they were joined by a large delegation from 
Carson. At the Savage ofiice he reviewed the people, of 
whom there was an immense concourse in line. In 
response to persistent calls, the ex-President spoke briefly, 
thanking the citizens for the reception. 

A sumptous lunch was served at 4 o'clock, after which 
the Mexican, Union, and Confederate veterans were 
received. 

In the evening a general reception was given and 
largely attended, followed by a grand banquet. 

On the 28th the General and party, as the guest of Mr, 
Mackey,visitcd the famous Consolidated Virginia Mine. Af- 
ter donning miners' costimies they entered the three-decked 
cage ; the ladies of the party taking the middle deck. The cage 
was lowered very slowly to the 1750 feet level. After in- 
specting the drifts, the ladies of the party returned to the 
surface, while the rest of the party went down to the 2 1 50 



4O0 GEXERAL U. S. GRANTS 

feet station, and thence to the 2340 feet station. After thor- 
oughly exploring the different drifts, they returned to the 
surface. General Grant expressed himself as highly pleased 
with his visit. 

While passing through the Assay Office a solid brick o 
gold and silver, four inches long and two and a half wide 
was presented to Mrs. Grant, with the following engraved 
inscription : 

Souvenir of the Consolidated Virginia Mine to 

Mrs. General U. S. GRANT. 

Virginia City, Nev., Oct. 27, 1879. 

Colonel Fair presented to Mrs. Grant a small phial with 
the inscription: 

One-half of my first day's work in California, 
1S49. 

Its value in dust did not probably exceed $40, but as a 
souvenir it was beyond jjrice. Before changing their miners' 
dresses a splendid photograph was taken of the party. Af- 
ter bathing and dressing they were driven to the stamp and 
pan mills, where they finished a most instructive day's ^vo^■k. 
In the evening the General visited the hall of the Pacific 
Coast Pioneers, where he was made an honorary member. 
A badge of office and the credentials of the society were 
given him. He was introduced by Dr. Harris. Colonel 
Robert Taylor delivered the address, to which the General 
responded as follows: 

Mr. President, Ladies and Gentlemen, Members 
OF THE Society of Pacific Coast Pioneers: Your 
President has already said what I feel in appreciation of 1113- 
reception here. Nothing which I received abroad was such 
a source of pleasure to me. I do not mean by that to dis- 
parage my greeting abroad. It was honest and hearty, and 
showed the high esteem felt for our country by foreign na- 
tions. It would have been quite different a quarter of a 



TOUK AROUND TJIE WORLD. 4OI 

■century ago. Now we are regarded as the most powerful 
nation on the earth. We have much which European na- 
tions have not — that is, we have a population which as yet 
docs not threaten to crowd any inliabited district or exhaust 
the productiveness of the soil. We have an extensive soil 
and immense undeveloped resources to exhaust before our 
population will become so dense as to make the raising of 
sufficient to live on a serious problem. In this respect we 
have great promise for the future. The fact of the matter 
is, we are more thought of abroad than we think of our- 
selves. Yet, at the same time, we think considerably of 
ourselves, and we are a little conceited over our advantages. 
Newspapers and politicians, however, think there are a good 
many bad j^eople in the world, and that things are on the 
verge of ruin, but I guess we are all light. Still, we can 
be improved. If I was not an American, I would not dare 
to talk like this for fear of being mobbed. I thank you all 
for this kindly expression of your esteem. 

The following day General Grant, accompanied by Gov- 
ernor Kingkead, of Nevada, Colonel James G. Fair, U. S. 
Grant, Jr., Philip Deidenhelmer, and a dozen Invited guests, 
visited the Sutro Tunnel. Upon arriving at the town of 
Sutro his welcome was emphasized by the ringing of bells 
and blowing of whistles at the company's workshops, and 
by a heavy discharge of giant powder from the mountain 
tops overlooking the town. 

The party were received at the Sutro mansion by Mrs. 
Adolphe Sutro, Superintendent H. H. Sheldon, and the offi- 
cers of the company. After an examination of the works 
of the company at the niouth of the tunnel, and the recep- 
tion of the citizens of the town and vicinity, a sumptuous 
loreakfast w'as served. 

The visitors went to the tunnel under the guidance of 
Superintendent Sheldon, Secretary Young, and Foreman 



403 GENERAL U. S. GHAJSIT S 






Bluett. The party were placed aboard the cars, and amid 
the cheers of the assembled citizens, disaj>peared in the dark- 
ness. Quick time was made underground. Shaft No. i, 
one mile from the entrance, was reached in eight minutes; 
shaft No, 2, two miles from the entrance, in seventeen min- 
utes; and the station of the north lateral tunnel, in thirty- 
five minutes. Here the part}- left the cars and walked to 
the north header, the better to examine the underground 
workings, and witness the performances of the powerful 
drilling appliances required in driving a work of this char- 
acter. The covered boxes, which convey the steaming hot 
water from the Comstock mines, were also an object of 
considerable interest. 

Returning to the cars the tiip was continued to the face 
of the south lateral tunnel, after which the party were 
escorted to the 1640 foot station at the "Savage Incline," 
where they were given in charge of the officers of the .Sav- 
age Company, and were hoisted to the surface at Virginia 
City. 

Throughout the entire trip the General evinced great in- 
terest in what he saw. He considei-ed the tunnel one of the 
greatest works of the age. 

Leaving Virginia City on the 29th the General arrived 
at Ogden, Utah, on the 30th. Governor Emery and Gen- 
eral Nathan Kimball welcomed him in addresses, to which 
he responded pleasantly. The special train left after half 
an hour's wait. 

At Laramie 2000 persons had assembled, the train 
stopping for breakfast. 

At Cheyenne, Gov. Hoyt and Gov. Pitkin, with their 
staffs, and prominent citizens of the State, received the Gen- 
eral, and were joined by several hundred members of the G. 
A. R. from Nebraska and other States. There were no 
speeches at Sidney, where a large crowd had collected. 




TOUR AROUND THE WORLD. 



403 



The General was introduced, but excused himself from 
making a speech. One old fellow m the crowd called out: 
" Old man, you can jest set it down that you've g-ot jest as 
many friends in this Western country' as anywhere else," 
to which General Grant good-humoredly rej^lied that he 
was glad to hear that. The crowd gave him three cheers. 
It was then that the most curious incident of the reception 
occurred. One of the bumpkins, who must have been 
slightly muddled, sang out: " General, I'm from Connecti- 
cut, and when you go back there, tell 'em you saw out 

West a from the old Nutmeg State." Grant, with 

great dignity, simply replied, " You should never swear. 
It has been a principle of mine never to swear at any time 
in my life." The reprimand was an effective one, and the 
fellow sknik away abashed. 

At Central City, Clark, Silver Creek, Jackson and 
Columbus he found a hearty welcome. At Schuyler, State 
Senator Clarkson, brother of Bishop Clarkson, presented an 
address of welcome. The General replied: 

vSenator: I am very much obliged for the kind words 
which you have said on behalf of your people of this prairie 
town, and I only express the gratification I have felt at all 
other points in your State through which we have passed, 
when I say that apparently you have all been out. I am 
glad to see this prairie State growing as it appears to be, 
the ground being dotted all over with farms and prosperous 
villages, and I hope that you may realize your expectations 
after the census af 1880, in having at least three Represent- 
atives in the Lower House of Congress. I thank you, 
gentlemen, for your attendance and your kindness. 

At North Bend, Millard's, a like cordial reception was 
given. As the train approached Omaha a salute of artillery 
announced the General's arrival. At the Union depot an 
immense crowd had assembled. The Grand Army, the 



404 



GENERAL U. S. GRANT S 



Ninth U. S. Inf-iatry, headed by their regimental band, 
formed the escort. Gov. Nance, Mayor Chase, and Gen- 
eral Crook riding with the General. 

The order of the procession was as follows: 

FIRST DIVISION. 

Platoon of Police. 

Battalion Ninth Infantry and Ninth Infantry Band. 

Section of Battery. 

Company G Second Regiment, N. S. M. 

[ SECOND DIVISION. 

I Union Pacific Band. 

Fire Department. 

THIRD DIVISION. 

Brandt's Band. 
Leyran Singing Society. 
Union Pacitic Shopmen. 

Civic Societies. 
Mannerchor. 

FOURTH DIVISION. 

University Cadets with their Band. 

Grand Army of the Republic. 

Carriages containing Gen. Grant, party, escort and prominent 

citizens. 

FIFTH DIVISION. 

City Band. 

Company H, Second Regiment, N. 8. M. 

" Trade representatives. 

The line of march was througli the principal streets. 
Crowds from Lincoln, York, Nebraska City, Fremont and 
adjacent towns, made up the enthusiastic throng. The 
decorations on the line of the route were generous in num- 
bers and attractive in display. 

At Capitol Hill an address of welcome by Gov. Nance, 
was brief and eloquent. 

General: On behalf of the State of Nebraska I 
extend to you a cordial greeting to Omaha, that vigorous 
young metropolis of the West. Nebraska is pre-eminently 
a patriotic State. A vast majority of our pioneers were 



TOUK AKOUXD THE WOULD. 



405 



•with you during vour marches, and helped achieve your 
victories at Donaklson and Shih:)h, and tlic Wilderness, and 
finally at the surrender of Lee at Appomattox. Doubtless 
■every regiment in every corj^s has its representative on 
Nebraska soil. As their confidence in you never wavered 
in the dark and troubled hours of the Nation's peril, I bid 
.a double welcome to Nebraska to-day. 

Mayor Chase in behalf of the city, said: 
General Grant: A very agreeable duty has devolved 
upon me upon this occasion, that of giving 3'ou welcome to 
our city. Since you were here four years ago, on this very 
spot where we stand, and addressed the school children, we 
are aware that you have traveled in foreign lands, that you 
have traveled at home, and made yourself as familiar with 
other countries as you were already wdth this, and we know 
full well tiie result of your travels. We are aware that the 
comity and amity of foreign nations has been greatly 
increased, and that their relations to this country have been 
favored b_v the fact that you have sociallv and freely had 
intercourse with those peoples abroad, and we are aware 
too, that our people throughout the United States have 
watched your progress wherever j-ou have gone, from 
place to place, and from port to port, with the deepest 
interest, and you know full well, sir, with what gratitude 
American hearts have beat from the fact that you have been 
everywhere welcomed, not only as an American citizen, 
but as a representative of this Republic, both for your per- 
sonal merits and virtues. 

And now, General, permit me to say that, while this 
little city of 30,000 people is not capable of presenting to 
you such external decorations as you have witnessed in your 
travels you have nowhere been where warmer hearts beat 
for 3'our welfare, and where more grateful greetings were 
extendctl to you. With gratitude to the kind Providence 



4o6 GENERAL U. S. GRANT's 

that has watched over you and yours in your travels, we 
remember with the greatest pleasure that you have returned 
to us to greet us once more. And now, sir, on behalf of 
this young city, I bid you again and again welcome, wel- 
come, welcome. 

Turning to the audience the Mayor presented General 
Grant to their view, and the air resounded with cheers 
for several minutes. As it ceased General Grant said: 

Ladies and Gentlemen of Nebraska and of 
Omaha: It would be impossible for me to make any 
number of you hear a word if I had anything very special 
to say. It is cold and windy, and there are multitudes 
waiting, and I will only say a few words, and that to 
express the gratification I feel at meeting you all here 
to-day. I state to you in addition how glad I am to get 
back again once more upon American soil. Wherever I 
have been in all my travels in the last two and a half years 
I have found our country most highly spoken of, and I 
have been, as a sort of representative of the country, most 
elegantly entertained. For the many kindnesses that I 
have received at the hands of foreign nations and Princes 
I feel gratified myself and I know that all of you do. The 
welcome given to me there has been a welcome to this grand 
Republic, of which you are all equal representatives with 
myself. As I have had occasion to say several times before 
since my ariival in San Francisco, we stand well abroad^ 
infinitely better than we did twenty years ago, as a nation 
and as ajDCople; and as a result of that to-day the credit of 
the United States in the European market is higher than 
that of any other country in the world. We are there 
more highly appreciated than wc appreciate ourselves as a 
whole, and I can and will say that as individuals we do not 
think well enough of ourselves. Gentlemen, I say again 
that I am highly gratified at meeting you here to-day, and 
thank you. 



TOUR AKOL'^ND THE WORLD. 407 

The welcome was most cordial and enthusiastic. A 
public reception at the Custom House followed. In the 
■evening a banquet at the Withnell House, at which 60 or 
more prominent citizens participated, this wound up the 
•day and the General left immediately afterwards for Fort 
Omaha as the guest of General Crook. 

On Sunday, Nov. 2, General Grant, General Crook, and 
escort, attended the First Methodist Church, where serv- 
ices were held. The church was filled to overflowing by 
regular worshipers and those drawn together out of curi- 
,osity to see the distinguished guest and visitor. The edifice 
was profusely decorated with banners, flags, evergreens, 
festoons and autumn leaves, and a small banner bearing the 
legend "Welcome" in bright gilt letters. 

General Grant and escort were given a reserved seat well 
in front. 

The opening prayer was made by Rev. James Haynes. 
In the closing invocation he referred to the more than ordi- 
nary character of the occasion, rendered extraordinary, in 
fact, by the jDresence of a distinguished fellow-citizen, who 
had been feted and honored all around the world; who was 
now returning in safety, and whose pleasure it was to wor- 
ship with God's people to-day. They were thankful he 
was able to be with them, and the reverend gentleman 
prayed that he might always be on the side of virtue and 
religion; that his influence might always be on the side of 
right and justice, and that God's special blessing might rest 
on him and those who worshiped with him. 

The sermon was delivered by Rev. J. B. IMaynard, pas- 
tor of the church, and was an able discourse on the origin 
of the Christian Church, and an interposition of Divine 
Providence in the aflfiiirs of men. His illustrations on the 
latter head were singularly striking. " It wasn't the peo- 
ple," he said, "who selected Islr. Lincoln to 'guide the 



4oS GKXERAL L7. s. GRANt's 

Nation in the hour of its peril. He was brought forward 
and placed at the head of the Government by One who 
knew the coming evils, and who selected him to guide the 
Nation through the impending storm. The same is true,"" 
continued the reverend gentleman, "in regard to leading 
minds in and out of Congress, and eminently so in regard' 
to the commanders of our army and navy. How blind 
most of their aiopointments, and how uncertain in conse- 
quence were our battles and campaigns! But at the right 
time, how strongly did an unseen power bring forward the 
men, and especially the one great commander to lead our 
armies through carnage and strife to final triumph of lib- 
erty! How clearly are God's acts vindicated! No matter 
how obscure and unpretending, God chose nim, and we at 
once saw in him the man for the emergency. Thus did 
Omnipotent wisdom adjust the conditions of our final suc- 
cess." 

The allusion was, of course, clear to everybody, inclu- 
ding General Grant himself, though his immobile features 
would never have revealed it. 

At the conclusion of the service the General and escort 
passed out first, and the pious and curious ones vied with 
each other to shake the hero's hand. 

General Grant's eastern journey was resumed on the 3d. 
General and Mrs. Grant, Col. and Mrs. Fred Grant, and 
daughter left Fort Omaha about 8 o'clock, under the 
escort of the officers of the garrison. Companies G and H, 
Ninth Infantry, and the Ninth Infantry Band. The party 
and escort were met at the Withnel House by the Nebraska 
Grand Army of the Re^Dublic boys and the Citizens' Recep- 
tion Committee. General Grant, Mayor Chase, and C. W. 
Mead, of the Union Pacific, rode together in a carriage to 
the depot, where a large crowd had collected to see the 
party off. The train was standing inside the Union depot,. 



TOUR AROUND THE WORLD. 409 

and its particularly haiulsomc appearance made it the cyno- 
sure of all eyes. D. W. Hitchcock, General Western Pas- 
senger Agent of the Chicago, IJurlington & Quincy, had 
laid himself out as he never did before to do something that 
would be memorable, and would redound to the credit of 
the road he represents. 

Very little time was lost after the party reached the 
depot. The troops were drawn up on the right 
of the train, forming a passage through which the 
escort led General Grant and private party. The crowd 
cheered itself hoarse. The engine-bell rang, the band 
played "Marching Through Georgia," and at 9:55, amidst 
all the display of enthusiasm, the train nioved out of the 
depot, and was soon on its way over the big bridge, out of 
Nebraska, and nearing Iowa. When it reached the middle 
of the bridge, General Manderson, who, with a number of 
the Nebraska Grand Ai-my boys, had remained on board, 
formally transferred the party to the care of the Iowa 
Grand Army boys, who were represented by Major A. A.. 
Perkins, of Burlington, Post Department Commander of 
Iowa. General Manderson was in his usually happy vein,, 
and his speech was as follows: 

Comrade Perkins: At their eastern terminus of the 
Union Pacific Railroad and the Eastern boundary of the 
State of Nebraska and in the middle of that classic stream, 
the Big Muddy, I have the pleasant duty to perform, of 
turning over to you the duty of escorting comrade Grant 
through the State of Iowa. I hope your journey will be 
as pleasant as ours was throiigh the State of Nebraska, and 
wish you and your comrades good luck and continued 
prosperity. 

Major Perkins, in a brief reply, accepted the trust. 
As the train drew vip at Council Bluffs, a large crowd 
welcomed it with cheers upon cheers. They were here 



4IO GENERAL U. S. GRANT S 

joined by Gov. Gear and Col. Griswold, Department Com- 
mander G. A. R., where formal speeches where made. Col 
Griswold welcomed the General in the following address:* 
General Grant: Knowing you would pass through 
our Department on your way home from your trip around 
the world, the Grand Army of the Republic, at our last 
semi-annual meeting, resolved to welcome you at our 
borders and escort you through the lines. We are here 
' to perform that pleasant duty. I have th© pleasure of in- 
troducing to you as such escort the officers and comrades of 
the Posts of the Department and the Chief Executive of 
our Commonwealth. 

General Gear welcomed the General as follows : 
General Grant: On behalf of our j^eople, I bid 
you welcome to the Commonwealth of Iowa, a welcome 
not alone to the soldier, who in the Nation's hour of 
supreme peril carried its flag to victory, nor yet to the 
public servant who in a critical period of this country's 
history, occupied the highest office, but also the illustrious 
citizen who, after many years of continuous and arduous 
labor in his country's service, has been enjoying a well- 
earned rest in visiting the people of the Old World, in 
seeing new phases of human life, and in returning home 
bringing an increase of honors to his country in the 
attention he has received at the hands of rulers and the 
people of other lands. To me, sir, is also allotted the 
pleasant dut}'- of extending to you a hearty welcome in 
behalf of the Grand Army of the Republic of the 
Dc'i^artment of Iowa, v/hose membership is composed of 
3'our old comrades in arms, most of whom have followed 
you in many a perilous campaign, and shared with you the 
triumphs of many well-fought battle fields. From all 
parts of this Commonwealth they went forth to swell the 
ranks of the historic Army of the Tennessee, whose fame is 



TOUIl AROUND THE WORI.D. 4I I 

SO imperishably bound up with yours, and so inseparably a 
part of the Nation's briUiant military record. The men of 
that army, and many others of many remote regions here 
to-day, and all over our State, feel them<;elves to have been 
honored in your person in all parts of the world, and }'Our 
brave comrades rejoice at the safe return of their renowned 
leader to his native land, a joy in which all of our people 
participate. We welcome, then with a glad welcome, you 
to our State, in the affection of whose people you have 
ever held a distinguis'.ied place. A hearty welcome to the 
soldier, statesman and citizen. 

General Grant replied: 

Gov. Gear, and Gentlemen of the Grand Army 
OF THE Republic: I am very glad to meet vou here, and 
I accept the escort which you have tendered me with great 
pleasure, having had your escort on former occasions when 
your protection was highly necessary. On this occasion I 
hope it will be a more joyous one than on previous occa- 
sions referred to. I believe that we might go through this 
State even without an escort, and "with an escort with- 
out arms we are perfectly secure. Governor, it's not nec- 
essary for me to say more on this occasion than to thank 
you and the citizens of Iowa, not only for their escort, but 
for their good will, as expressed by you. 

At Red Oak, Villasco, and Creston the General was 
received with enthusiastic and hearty ovations from the 
whole populace. At the latter place, in response to the 
address of the Mayor, he said: 

Citizens of Creston: I am very glad to meet the 
peojile of this State in your city. I looks very much as 
though a great many people had settled here within a very 
few years. My recollection is that the last time I crossed 
this part of the slate, the praries had very little upon them 
except grass and prairie chickens. Now you have 



412 GENERAL U. S. GRANTS 

got i^eople enough to stamp out the j^i'Jiii'ic chickens and 
to produce from the soil millions of bushels of grain to- 
support and sustain human life, and make America pros- 
perous. I am very glad to see all these citizens assembled, 
and glad to be among you." 

Brief stops were made at Murray and Osceola. At Char- 
iton he was received by all the school teachers and Fchool 
children in the place. Col. Duncan welcomed the Ge;-eral. 
At its close, a novel portion of the reception awaited hitn. 
A precocious little girl of six years, Mary Cushman by 
name, who was held in her teacher's arms, presented 
Grant with a boquet, and in an innocent, childish verse, 
made him a little speech, which closed with a wish that he 
would " always love and remember his countr}'." Grant 
kissed the little thing, who appeared to realize that it was 
the proudest moment of her young life. 

At Albia, Chillicothe, Ottumwa and Mount Pleasant, 
vast crowds had collected. It was dark, and huge bonfires 
were sending out weird glare; the decorations and crowds 
surging to and fro showed off well in the light of the bon- 
fires. 

At Burlington the reception was one of the noisiest, 
liveliest and most brilliant on the route. 

As the train entered the city they were received by long 
and piercing blasts from all the locomotives in the city, 
church and fire bells, salutes, and the display of fire-works, 
numerous bonfires and illuminations of nearly all the house 
windows, the great cheering crowds — all added to the noise 
and fury, and proclaimed a joyous welcome. The General 
was met by the mayor, who addressed his guest as follows: 

General Grant: Burlington bids you welcome. The 
formal words of greeting fall from my Ups, but they find a 
sympathetic response in every heart in this great assem- 
blage. If all these sjDoke, one word would rise and fi.ll the 



TOUR AKOLxNL) THE WORLD. 4I3 

autumn air with its glad chorus, until the rocks and clifls of 
old Fliiit Hills would send back the cordial, hearty tones in 
re-echoing refrain the one word, "welcome." We have 
been deeply interested in the magnificent ovations and 
receptions that have been tendered you in the many lands 
that you have visited. They have been given you as a 
plain American citizen without rank, position or credentials. 
Your fame, however, as a warrior and a statesman preceded 
you, and each nation was proud to render you the homage 
due to one w^ho had occupied and discharged the highest 
trusts in the Government of the United States with honesty 
and fidelity. The tones of welcome do not weaken as you 
journey towards your old home, but every city, town and 
hamlet on your route, from West to East, vie with each 
other in making the welkin ring with their shouts of wel- 
come to our distinguished fellow-citizen." 

General Grant replied : 
"Ladies and Gentlemen: The welcome 1 have 
received since coming into Iowa is exceedingly gratifying. 
I have seen a population in crossing your State, on a single 
line of railroad greater than that of the State a quarter of a 
century ago. This is remarkal)le, and shows a growth and 
enterprise in this great State that is most gratifying. The 
impossibility of making one hear all my remarks will force 
me to do as I have seen them do in Washington. I will 
ask permission to have my speech printed." 

The speech was received with cheers and laughter by the 
crowd. The ex-President and escort were invited to car- 
riages, and line of march taken up to the Mayor's house. 
The decorations encountered on every hand excited uni- 
versal admiration. The party proceeded with its escort 
through the principal streets to Mayor Adams' residence, 
where, as soon as possible thereafter, its members retired to 
rest. 



414 GENERAL U. S. GRANT'S 

The following morning General Grant, Governor Gear 
and Mayor Adams drove round Burlington's numerous 
hills. At noon a reception was given to Iowa journalists 
at the liawkcye office; here the General was presented with 
a copy of the Hawkeye printed on silk; this was followed at 
I : 30 p. M. by an elegant repast at the Mayor's residence, and 
later, by a public reception at the Barrett House, Mrs. Grant 
holding a reception at the Mayor's house, where were 
assembled the beauty and elite of the city to do her honor. 
The reception at the Barrett House over, the General 
and escort visited the High School building, where 6,000 
school children of all ages, their teachers and members of 
the school board had collected. C. B. Parsons, president of 
the school board, extended a formal welcome, to which 
General Grant replied: 

"Members of the School Board, and Scholars 
OF the City of Burlington, Iowa: It does me great 
pleasure to meet and see 5,000 or more of the school chil- 
dren of the city of Burlington. I think that if ever there 
is another war in this country it will be one of ignorance 
versus intelligence, and in that battle the State of Iowa will 
achieve a grand victory. Furthermore, I thmk that 
that war will be one of ignorance and superstition combined 
against education and intelligence, and I am satisfied that 
the children here will enroll in the army of intelligence and 
wipe out the common enemy, ignorance. I thank you for 
your kind attention." 

A vast chorus of young, fresh voices then sang "Amer- 
ica" The General was apparently much taken with the 
undisguised heartiness and earnestness of the reception he 
met. After a long season of hand-shaking, at 4 o'clock thj», 
ex-President returned to the JNIayor's residence, where final 
preparations were made to resume the join-ncy. A large 
crowd had collected at the depot, and cheered him as he 



TOUR AROUND THE WORLD. 415 

ascended the steps. While the bands played and cheers of 
the people the train moved off. 

At Monmouth a lar<^e crowd had assembled at the depot, 
and a dozen bonfires illuminated the scene. Capt. WalKer 
introduced General Grant, who said: 

" Gkntlemen: I am very glad to get back to Illinois 
again, and very glad to see you all, but I have a great deal 
of sympathy with these press-men who are along with us, 
and who take down every word I say. I am a man of 
economy, I believe in economy, and thev telegraph every 
word I sa}', and I want to save them expenses." 

At Galesburg the biggest kind of a reception awaited the 
party. Mayor Greenleaf introduced the General to the 
crowd, numbering at least 5,000 people. General Grant 
responded as follows: 

"Ladies and Gentlemen: It would be impossible for 
me to make myself heard b}' all of you or a large fraction 
of you, even if I was in the habit of public speaking. I 
will do no more, therefore, than thank you for turning 
out at this time of night to welcome me on my waj^ homcy 
and I will say to you that in the two and a half years that 
I have been away from you I have had a very pleasant 
time. I have seen a great many pleasant people, and I 
have been very well received at every place I have been as 
a mark of respect and honor to the great country' which you 
help to make up. But, as 1 have had frequent occasion to say 
since my return to my own country, I appreciate the welcome 
which I received from the sovereigns of my own country- 
above all other receptions that they gave us elsewhere. I 
have had the pleasure of seeing the people of Galesburg 
out on one other occasion. I passed through in iS6S,when 
I thought all the people in the city were about this spot. I 
am very glad to see you all again to-night." 

The speech was received with cheers, but it was only 



4l6 GENERAL U. S. GRANt's 

heard by those standing very near one side of the phitform, 
and, when the General stepped to the other side of the 
platform, the crowd on that side cried out, "Speech!" 
" Speech! " " General, only a few words." 

General Grant said: 

"My Friends: I have only been in Illinois one hour, 
and during that time I have already made two speeches, 
and feel talked out." 

A voice in the crowd — " We didn't hear the one you 
made here, General." 

General Grant — " Well some one," (indicating a rejDorter 
back of hiin), "will be pretty sure to print what I said. 
You can buy a copy of the morning paper and find it all." 

There were loud cries for Mrs. Grant, who appeared on 
the platform. She simph' bowed, and soon retired; the 
train then again started, and a final three cheers were given 
as they moved on. 

A short stop was made at Yates City, where the Gen- 
eral was enthusiastically received by those in waiting. 

Owing to the lateness of the hour the train was run 
down to Lombardville, some twentj'-five miles off the main 
line, and run on to a side track until the following morning; 
the distinguished party having a two-fold object, to get the 
election returns unmolested by a large crowd of people, a 
skillful operator having been taken aboard at Galesburg, 
and a good night's rest. Early the following morning the 
train was run back upon the main line of the Chicjigo, Bur- 
lington and Quincy, arriving at Mendota at 9:20 A. M. Mr. 
Potter, Captain Walker and General Hitchcock, of the 
Chicago, Burlington and Quincy, turned the General and 
his party over to the Illinois Central Railroad. These 
gentlemen, who had been tireless in energy, lavish in 
expenditure, and delicate in their attentions to their distin- 
guished guest, received the warmest thanks. 



TOlfR AlfOUND THE WOULD. 



417 



At Mendola vast crowds swarmed about the depot, 
■whose cheers, united to the thunder peals of ordinance, 
conspired to make the noisiest and heartiest kind of wel- 
come. A local reception committee were on hand, while 
Company F, Twelfth Battalion National Guards, under 
command of Capt. Ingalls, was drawn up on the platform. 
A line was formed, and General Grant passed through it, 
escorted by Gov. Gear, Collector Crocker. Mayor Hastings, 
Mr. Ruggles, and took seats in the first carriage. The 
procession formed with two bands at its head, followed by 
one platoon of militia in advance and one in the rear of 
the first carriage. The other carriages, containing the 
balance of the party and citizens followed, and the proces- 
sion ^vound its way along the finely decorated streets to 
the First Baptist Church, where it halted. Arches had 
been erected over its front doors, under which the General 
passed, being made of flags and evergreens, l)earing in large 
letters the word " Welcome." General Grant and escort 
passed up the church-aisle to the pulpit, which had been 
enlarged and handsomely decorated with flowers, flags and 
evergreens. An arch over its edge bore simply the word 
*« Grant." The church was filled to overflowing with 
citizens generall3^ and a large delegation of school-children. 
Mayor Hastings and General Grant rose from the sofa 
where they had sat down, and Mendota's Executive 
delivered the following address of welcome: 

"General Grant: In behalf of the citizens of 
Mendota and vicinity, independent of party, I congratulate 
you upon your safe return to the State of Illinois and the 
near arrival to your home. We have read with the 
greatest interest of the honorable manner in which j-ou 
have been received by the governments that j-ou have 
visited, and are happy to realize that your distinguished 
services to your country were as fully appreciated abroad 



4lS GENERAI, U. S. GRANt's 

as they are at home. In your reception this morning the 
citizens of this city and vicinity have turned out en masse 
to greet you, manifesting the same enthusiasm, in the 
appreciation of your distinguished services in tlie field and 
as President of this great republic, as had greeted you from 
San Francisco to this point. We sincerely hope that your 
life may be long protracted, and that you may always 
realize the deep affection of a grateful public for the services 
you have rendered your country." 

General Grant responded as follows: 

" Citizens of Mendota : The receptions which I have 
received on my return to my own country, upon my first 
arrival at San Francisco up to Jvlendota, have been to me 
gratifying. The receptions referred to abroad have been a 
mark of respect that foreign nations feel for the United 
States as a country, and for its citizens as energetic, progres- 
sive and independent people. The honor has been yours, 
and not mine. In getting back now, to my own home, I 
feel especially gratified to meet the citizens of my own 
state, and to be welcomed by them. I am sure I shouldn't 
v»ant to stay long in Illinois if I didn't feel that I could 
have had a good feeling and a reception of the people of this 
State. In conclusion, ladies and gentlemen, I thank you for 
what I sec here, before me, this morning, and tor the words 
which have just been heard." 

Hand shaking to an almost unlimited extent closed the 
reception at the church, after which the General was 
escorted back to the depot. Here the guests were joined by 
a large party of friends from Chicago, who had come 
down by special train to meet him and attend the recejotion 
at Galena, also by Gov. Cullom, who was greeted warmly 
by the General. Gov. Cullom after silencing the noisy 
crowd addressed General Grant in the following speech of 
welcome. 



TOUR AROUND IIIK WORLD. 419 

" General Grant: On behalf of your old friends who 
are here present, and in the name of the people of 
the State of Illinois, I extend to you and to your 
family a sincere and heartfelt welcome home. This great 
central valley is proud to acknowledji^e you as the 
most honored and best-beloved of all her living sons. 
Eighteen years ago you left us in the service of our common 
country, at the head of the Twenty-first brave regiment of 
Illinois Volunteers. I need not recite to those present who 
join in the greeting, the well-known story of your progress. 
We have followed you every step, through all the 
dark days, which ended in the glorious success of the 
army of the Union, and which gave to you that which 
you so richly deserved — the position of General of the 
Army. Later, you were twice called to the highest civil 
office of the nation. Illinois at each time gave to you her 
voice in no uncertain tones. When you laid aside the cares 
and toils of office, and sought in foreign travels the rest and 
recreation which you so much needed, your fellow-citizens 
from your o\vn State, have thrilled with pride and pleasure 
when they saw the recognition of your services to civilization 
and the age, of your abilities as a chieftain and a ruler, and 
of your virtues as a man by all the great and good of the 
entire world. Our pleasure and pride in following you 
from shore to shore, when nption vied with nation and 
princes with princes to do you honor, have not been 
lessened by any fear that all this adulation would in any 
way hurt you. We had an abiding confidence that the time 
would come when you would return among us, that same 
quiet, modest man whom we had last known, to assume 
your position and take \'our place as a private dtizen. And 
in that place I want to remind you that one of your chief 
duties is to hold yourself in readiness when your country calls 
for your exertions either in the Cabinet of the nation or in 



420 GENERAL U. S. (JUANt's 

the field. Again, in behalf of your old friends present, and 
in the name of the whole people of the great Republic, I 
welcome you home. 

General Grant's reply was a practical verification of 
Governor CuUom's remai-k, that adulation could not hurt 
him. Without apparently noticing the Governor's allusion 
to what the future might bring forth, he responded: 

" Governor: I thank the citizens of the State of Illinois, 
and I thank you, for the welcome you have extended to 
diie. I shall make no further remarks now. Having been 
•received in one of the churches of this city by the popula- 
tion of Mendota, and having already had an opportunity of 
taking, I think, nearly everybodv^ by the hand, I will there- 
fore reserve any thing further that I have to say for another 
occasion." 

Gov. Cullom proposed three cheers for General Grant, 
which were given with a yell and hurrah that must, indeed, 
have assured the General of his welcome, if anything niore 
were necessary. 

The train moved off amid the cheers and hurrahs of 
thousands of people. The first stop was at Amboy, where 
a great crowd had assembled; a brief stop was made at 
Dixon, where the General spoke briefly. On the arrival of 
the train at Polo it was boarded by a reception committee 
appointed by the citizens of Galena. At Forreston, Free- 
port and VV^arren, large and enthusiastic crowds had col- 
lected. The approach to Galena for miles swarmed with 
people, who cheered and waved their handkerchiefs as the 
train flew by. Galena, the General's old home, was reached 
at 3:20 p. M., and the trip overland came to a temporary- 
stop. 

A salvo of artillery greeted General Grant as he entered 
his old home, and 10,000 citizens gathered at the depot 
and on the streets adjoining to give a royal welcome to 



TOUR AROUND T]IE W OKI.D. 42 1 

America's most distini^uished living citizen. The crowd 
pi'essed back and forth, and there was some trouble about 
the landing; but in a few minutes this was adjusted, and 
'way was made for (jeneral Grant to his carriage. The 
depot of the Illinois Central is located in East Galena, 
while the city proper is on the other side of the river. 
When the General had reached his carriage, a procession 
was formed. The hour was late, and there was no time to 
lose if the business of the day was to be finished before 
.nightfall. The procession was formed as follows: 

Veterans bearing colors of the old Fortj-fifth Illinois 

Volunteer Infantry, better known as the 

Washburne Lead Mine 

Regiment. 

Gen. W. R. Rowley, the only living member of General 

Grant's Individual Staft", and Chief Marshal 

of the Day. 

'Gen. John C. Smith, State Treasurer, commanding the 

Militia, and Capt. J. W. Luke, Aid and 

Assistant Marshal. 

Two Companies of the Third Illinois Militia. 

An Iowa Militia Company with Band, etc. 

The Soldiers' and Sailors' Veteran Association of Jo 

Daviess County. 

The Veteran Corps of Dubuque, Iowa. 

The Dyersville, Iowa, Veteran Club. 

Crippled Veterans of the War, in carriages. 

Knights of Pythias from Dubuque and Galena. 

Liberty and Neptune Fire Companies. 

The carriage, drawn by four grey horses, which bore 

General Grant, Gov. CuUom, Senator 

McClellan, and Mayor 

Hunkins. 

Distinguished visitors and well-known citizens in 

carriages. 

A thousand citizens, many being old veterans. 

The procession moved rapidly through the principal 
streets to the corner of Main and Green streets, where a 



422 GENERAL U. S. GRANT'S 

grand stand had been erected. Stretching across the street 
from the De Soto House to the stand was an arch, embowered 
in green. On one side it bore the mottoes, " From Galena 
to Appomattox Court House." " From Galena to the White 
House." "From Galena Around the World;" and also 
the words, "Welcome to Your Home, General." On the 
other side was the motto, " Loved at Home and Honored 
Abroad," and the names of "Grant," " Sherman," " Sher- 
idan," " Rawlins." The whole was surmounted by a 
carved eagle, formerly the property of the Grey Eagle fire 
company. It was abt)ut 4:15 when the head of the proces- 
sion halted in front of the grand stand, and the vast crowd 
there assembled set up a welcoming cheer. At last every 
thing was in readiness for the oratorical features of the 
reception. After an address of welcome from the Mayor, 
State Senator McClellan addressed General Grant, as 
follows: 

"General: The Mayor and your fellow-citizens oi 
Galena have assigned to me the pleasing duty of tendering 
you, in their name and on their behalf, a hearty welcome 
home again. Without distinction of party, sect, or nation- 
ality, all your neighbors and townsmen give you cordial sal- 
utation, and hail your return to your old home with joy and 
profound satisfaction. They are deeply sensible of the 
honor you do them in continuing to make this city your res- 
idence, and they will be only too happy to contribute so far 
as they may be able to render your stay here profitable and 
agreeable. You, sir, have been the recipient of many ova- 
tions, remarkable alike for their spontaneous heartiness and 
their almost imperial magnificence. Your journey from the 
Golden Gate to this place has been one continual triumphal 
progress, marked everywhere by demonstrations of honor, 
respect, admiration, and homage, never heretofore accorded 
to a private citizen in this country. We in Galena cannot 



TOUR AROUND THE WORI-D. 433 

vie with those splendid displays. We are too poor, and too 
few for that. In our little city we cannot give you the 
plaudits of hundreds of thousands of people : we cannot erect 
triumphal arches emblazoned with gold and silver; we are 
not able to provide royal banquets with princely service, but 
we are able and glad to give you the homage of honest, lov- 
ing and loyal hearts. 

" We can and do give you and your family a supremely, sin- 
cere and heartfelt welcome. Other cities may make grander 
and more imposing demonstrations, but be assured, sir, that 
no people in all this broad land are so glad to see you as are 
your fellow-citizens of Galena. None greet you with a 
warmer affection, none can be more proud of you, your 
achievements and your fame, and we come to-day in our 
own humble fashion, with none of that pomp and pageantry 
to which you are accustomed on like occasions, to give ex- 
pression, as best we may, to the delight and satisfaction we 
feel in seeing you once more among us; to testify the love 
and respect we have for you as a man and a fellow-citizen, 
and the honor and esteem we entertain for you as a soldier 
and a statesman. 

" In the dark days of 1861 you left us to fight the battles 
of your country. Your career since then has become a large 
part of that country's most interesting and eventful history. 
The nation's integrity vindicated and the Union restored, 
the highest military honors a grateful people could bestow 
were lavished upon you. Twice have the suffrages of a 
free people placed you in the highest civil position in their 
gift, a position more honorable than that of a King or Em- 
peror, inasmuch as it is not determined by the accident of 
birth, but given as the reward of genius and ability, patriot- 
ism, and public service. As a private citizen you have just 
made the ciixuit of the globe. Nothing could equal the 
courtesies and distinctions you received from the powers ot 



4.24 GEXKRAL U. S. GRANT S 

the old world, save the modesty, good sense, and demo- 
cratic simplicity which characterized your reception ol 
them. Imperial splendors, the glitter and glare of royalty, 
never for a moment dazzled your republican vision. The 
guest of kings and prime ministers of extended empires, you 
bore yourself with the quiet dignity of an American citizen. 
The just compliments of the titled and great to your illus- 
trious services and personal worth you modestly disclaimed, 
and credited them all to your country. In the presence of 
sovereigns you never forgot that you were yourself a sover- 
eign — one of a nation of forty million sovereigns — and it is 
most gratifying, sir, to your own countrymen to learn from 
a speech made b}- yourself, that you return to your native 
land a more ardent admirer of republican institutions than 
ever before, and that your love for your country has been 
increased and your faith in the progress, future greatness, 
and grand destiny of this nation has been strengthened Hy 
your observations and experiences abroad. In all your for- 
eign travels you could doubtless say of your country with 
the poet: 

Where'er I roain, whatever reahns I see, 
My heart, uiitraveled, tbndlj turns to thee. 

" Again, in the name of this great congregation of patri- 
otic, admiring, enthusiastic people, I bid you thrice welcome 
to this little town — a town of small importance, indeed, of 
itself, but made flimous and heroic by tlie deeds of yourself^ 
and those of many other distinguished men who have gone 
forth from us to do service to the State. Some of these,, 
with their martial robes about them, sleep on battle- 
fields, some are still with the army guarding the frontier,, 
and some, illustrious in their .several spheres as jurists, for- 
eign ambassadors, and successful men of aflairs, we have the 
pleasure of seeing before us on this occasion. They have 
come back to this, their former home, to unite their acclaim 
with ours in your honor to-day. 




TOI'U AHOUXI) THE WORLD. *'i^5 

" In conclusion, sir, permit me to express the wish th;it 
) our future miiy he as serene and hapj^y as your past has 
been eventful and glorious; and as you pass into the 'sere 
and yellow leaf of life's autumn, may all that which should 
accompany old age, as honor, love, obedience, troops of 
friends be yours." 

In I'esj^onse to this cordial greeting. General Grant spoke 
as follows: 

"Ladies and Gentlemen, and Citizens of Gale- 
na : It is with some embarrassment that I reply. Your wel- 
come is exceedingly gratifying to me, but it is difficult for me 
to reply to what I have just heard, and to what I have seen. 
Since I first left here, eighteen years ago, it has always been 
the greatest pleasure for me .to return to Galena, and now, 
after an absence of two and a half years from your city, 
during which time I have visited almost every country ii> 
the world, it is a pleasure to be greeted in this manner by 
3'ou. During my travels I receixed princely honors, but 
they were all due to this country, and to you as citizens and 
as sovereigns of so great a country. When I saw during 
my absence, especially in the far East, how hard the inhab- 
itants had to toil even for a maintenance, I realized more 
than ever the greatness of our country, Avhere want is 
scarcely ever known, and whei'e the question of sustenance 
is not daily considered. I will only add, that I thank you 
again for your reception." 

Brief but feeling remarks were made by Gov. Cullom, 
of Illinois; Gov. Gear, of Iowa; Gov. Smith, of Wiscon- 
sin; General Logan, Senator Allison, of Iowa; Hon. E. B. 
Washburne and Major Hawkes. 

The open air ceremonies concluded with the presentation 
of Mrs. Grant to the people. Then three times three cheers 
were given to General Grant, and the out-door welcome 
home terminated. 

♦Siktecn pages are here added to correct omission in paging the illustrations. 



^3 GENERAL U, S. GltANT S 

General Grant repaired to the DeSoto House, where he 
received his friends. The parlors of the hotel were over- 
flowing for fully an hour, and the hand-shaking was almost 
endless. The General submitted with good grace to it all, 
and occasionally, when he met an old acquaintance, the 
ereetinsT was verv cordial. Behind him stood the color 
bearers of the Forty-fifth Illinois Volunteers, with their bat- 
tered ensigns. 

In the evening the city was brilliantly illuminated, and 
there was a fine display of fire-works. During this display 
the triumphal arch, which was well stored with rockets, 
Roman candles, etc., became ignited, and an explosion fol- 
lowed that shook the windows of the buildings in the vicin- 
ity. Postmaster Huntington was injured in the fire. Gen- 
eral and Mrs. Grant entertained a few friends at their resi- 
dence ; there were none but guests present from abroad, as 
the General will entertain his Galena friends later. And so 
ended the great reception, which was so general and gener- 
ous on the part of Galena. 

After a few days rest. General Grant left Galena 
at 5 o'clock Wednesday morning, November I2th, for 
Chicago. At nearly all of the stations on the route 
large and enthusiastic crowds collected, the train generally 
stopping a few moments to allow the General to satisfy 
their curiosity, and the General was often compelled to go 
through the ordeal of the pump, shaking hands with all 
who requested it. At one o'clock the train reached Park 
Row, and was received by General B. R. Raum, General 
Theodore Jones, Major A. Fitch, Colonel W. S. Oliver, 
General E. H. Murray, and Major H. C. McArthur, who 
escorted the distinguished guest to a carriage drawn by six 
horses. Then followed Mayor Harrison and Governor Cul- 
lom, who took a seat in the ex-President's carriage, and the 
cavalcade started. A body guard, consisting of officers Schu- 



TOUK AKOL NU IIIK WOULU. 443 

juacher, Fife, Lucders, Soergcl, Ricrdon and Bruton, sur- 
rounded the carriage. At this moment a drenching rain set in, 
iuid the multitude that but a minute before was a packed, solid 
aiiuss, began to move, at fir,>t slowly, and then quicker and 
quicker, until it almost reached a trot. Park Row and the 
lake front was transformed into a surging, seething mass of 
human beings and umbrellas, moving northward on Mich- 
igan avenue. It was a strange sight. In spite of the rain, 
patriotic throats would cheer, and resounding artillery would 
roar; in spite of the mud the crowd dashed on, cheering 
lustily, and in spite of all the elements combined, General 
Grant's advent into Chicago was signalized by a display of 
the most unbounded enthusiasm. 

The procession having formed, the command to march 
was given about 1.30 o'clock, by Lieutenant General Phil. 
Sheridan, Grand Marshal, and the column moved in the 
following order: 

FIRST DIVISION. 

Detachment of mounted police, under command of Major George Heinzman. 

Jefferson Barnicks B ind. 

General Sheridan and staff". 

General J. T. Torrence and staff". 

First Regiment of Cavalry, Major Welter. 

Second Reg-iment Infantry, Coli nel Qiiirk. 

Sixth Battallion Infantry, Colonel W. H. Thompson. 

Sixteenth Battalion Infantry, Colonel Scott. 

Battery D, Major Tobey. 

Battalion of miscellaneous companies. Major De Young. 

First Regiment of Infantry, Colonel Knox. 

First Reg-iment Cadet Corps. 

Lackey Zouaves. 

Janesville Guards. 

SECOND DIVISION. 

Loesch's Military Band. 
Captain Neelv and Staflf of aids. 

GENERAL GRANT, 

accompanied by Mayor Harrison and the Hon. Thomas Hoyne, in a carriage drawn 

by six caparisoned horses and escorted bv the Society of 

the Army of the Tennessee. 

Platoon of police, commanded by Acting Chief O'Donnell and associates. 

Carriages containing Governor Shelby M. CuUom and General W. T. Sherman. 

Carriages containing the Citizens' Reception Committee of 500. 



444 GENERAL U. S. GRANTS 

Carriages containing distinguished maimed and crippled soldiers. 

Lubbig's Milwaukee Band. 

Society ot the Army of the Cumberland, General Whipple. 

Northwestern Band. 

Society of the Army of the Potomac, General White. 

Nevans' Military Band. 

Union War Veterans. 

Union Democratic War Veterans. 

Veteran organizations in gtne'al Colnnel Scribner, 

Clarinda, Iowa, Cornet Band. 

Mexican War V.ti.r..ns. 

F"ort Wajme Band. 

Grand Army of the Republic, Colonel Swain. 

Grand Array Fife and Drum Corps Band. 

THIRD DIVISION. 

Columbus Barracks Band. 

General Wallace and Staff. 

Old Settlers, as invited participants, in carriages. 

Judges of the Federal and State Courts, carriages. 

^ The Chicago Common Council, carriages. 

The Board of Cook County Commissioners. 

Division composed of the County Clerk's and Shurifl'.^ Deputies. 

The City Clerk's and City and County rreasurcr's D. puties. 

Hyde Park authorities and South Park Commissioners. 

First Regiment Trumpeters. 

The Fire Patrol. 

Illinois Skirmishers' Battalion. 

Brothers of Union. 

United Fellows. 

Downer's Grove Band. 

The Union Labor League. 

Mail Carriers, detachment of 30. 

The Danish War Veterans. 

First Xcjrwepiian Total Abstinence Society. 

Jacksonville Drum Corps. 

Chicago Labor Union. 

Stock Yards Troopers. 

Langan's Band. 
Chicago Turngemeinde. 

l-OUKTII DIVISION. 

Elgin Military Band. 

General Sherer and staff. 

Detachment of 14 engines and 4 trucks of the Chicago Fire Department. 

Jackson, Mich., Band. 

Division of 360 decorated wagons, escorted by the West, South, and North Park 

Police, mounted. 

The commanders of the various divisions, who were 
seen after the march was over, stated that there were at 



TOUR AROUND THE WORLD. 



445 



the smallest estimate 10,000 or 12,000 participants in the 
procession. 

There were over 3,000, perhaps 3,500, in the First 
Division, over 2,500 in the Second, about the same in the 
Third, and nearly 1,500 in the Fourth. The route of 
march was about 4 miles long, and the rear of the column 
had not yet formed on Michigan avenue when the head 
had arrived at the Palmer House. The procession occupied 
about three hours in passing a given point. 

From a balcony erected at the N. E. end of Palmer 
House General Grant reviewed the first and second Divis- 
ions, when the General descended and proceeded to the 
platform erected in the rotunda of the hotel, and on behalf of 
the citizens of Chicago was formally welcomed to the city 
by Mayor Harrison (a Democrat), who spoke as follows: 

"General Grant: The people of Chicago recognize 
in you the most renowned of America's citizens. They have 
watched you for several months journeying around the world. 
They have seen you the recipient of honors heretofore con- 
ferred only upon those of exalted rank; and yet, sir, you 
had no other passport than that you were an American 
citizen. 

"Princes, rulers, and their people delighted to honoryou, 
and in honoring you they lavished honor upon yoiu" 
country. This people, sir, now that you are returning 
home, are desirous of tendering you a befitting reception. 
With this end they have appointed a committee of five 
hundred gentlemen to receive you here in the heart of the 
city and to welcome you to the homes of our people and to 
the hearts of the people. 

" Upon me as chairman of that committee, devolves the 
pleasing duty of clothing in words what their hearts would 
warmly express. Sir, for many long years you have been 
constantly before the eyes of this people." 



^6 GENERAL U. S. GRANT'S 

" Eighteen years and two months ago a neighbonng state 
had adopted the rule of neutrality in the dread internecine 
war then commencing. Our statesmen were deeply troubled 
and knew not how to solve the problem. You, Sir, like 
the Macedonian conqueror, with your sword cut the Gor- 
dian knot, and the first born daughter of the Constitution 
no longer w^avered in her devotion to the Union and to the 
Union's flag. Two months after we saw you writing 
your name in blood at fiercely contested Belmont. 
Before the frosts of winter had thawed, you threw your 
regiments around Donelson. Its commander, feeling the 
deatli-grip upon him, asked for terms of capitulation. 
That laconic reply, "Unconditional surrender; I propose 
immediately to move upon your works," enriched the page 
of military literature, and 15,000 of Confederate prisoners 
came here to Chicago, living witnesses of your great 
victory. Ere the buds of spring had burst into the sum- 
mers flower, Corinth, and Pittsburg Landing were your 
trophies. And the waters of the Cumberland and 
Tennessee rivers flowed freely, bearing the stars and 
stripes through the Ohio, through on the Mississippi 
to Memphis and below; but the mighty river refused 
to carry you on to the gulf. Vicksburg, deemed 
impregnable, frowned upon its turbulent waters, de- 
manding a toll of death. You resolved that Vicksburg 
should fall, and for you to resolve, has seemed in the past 
for you to do. After months of strategic movement, long 
marches, and many battles, you lay your army in front of 
the Gibraltar of the South. But Vicksburg was vulnera- 
ble only from the rear. Desirous of saving your army, you 
endeavored to make a new channel for the mighty stream. 
But the father of wateis, despising your human efforts, 
rolled on majestically — on beneath the enemy's guns. Sir, 
unable to bridle the monster, you mounted his foaming 



TOUK AROUND IIIE WOJII^D. 447 

back, rode through the storm of lire and hail of shot. 
Vicksburg fell, and Chicago shouted: " The backbone of the 
Confederacy is broken," Chattanooga, Lookout Mountian, 
and Missionary Ridge were then flowers in the chaplet 
encircling your brow. We then saw you at the nation's 
Capital commanding your country's armies. But your own 
special duty was to reach Richmond, which had in the 
past seemed a 7ioli me tangere. You chose the line of the 
Wilderness, and to the immortal Lincoln you declared that 
you would ' fight it out on that line if it took you all 
summer,' thus giving evidence of the tenacity of your 
own will, rousing the wavering and lifting up the down- 
hearted. You did, sir, 'fight it out on that line,' and 
Richmond was ours. 

" We next saw you, sir, at Appomattox Court House,, 
receiving the sword of the brave, but mistaken Lee. You 
handed it back to him. 'Keep it,' said you; 'a braver 
man never wore a sword.' You bade him keep his horses^ 
for his folks would need them at the plow. You bade his 
armies return to their homes, to rebuild their broken fire- 
sides, and to re-establish their shattered fortunes. Sir,, 
Chicago and the world then applauded the clement 
conqueror, as before they had admired the dauntless soldier. 
The bloody war over, you said, ' Let us have peace,' and 
a grateful nation lifted you to the highest position in its gift; 
aye, the highest in the world. Eight years you were 
President. Then, wearied with sixteen years of service to- 
your country, you sought rest in travel, turning your eyes 
to the East. Moving off toward the cradle of the sun, you 
were greeted in all lauds, and received every greeting in 
the name of your country. 

" Sir, you have served your country nobly ; your country 
has honored you grandly. Like the immortal Washington, 
you rose from the lowly v^^alks of life, passed through all 



448 GENERAL U. S. GRANt's 

military grades until you commanded its victorious armies. 
Like him, you filled the office of Piesident two long terms. 
He, when his two terms were over, was offered a crown; 
but, preferring the immortality of fame to temporary power, 
he retired to private life, lives in the hearts of his people, 
«nd all time will call him his country's father. You, too, 
sir, when your two terms were over, obeying that part of 
your country's Constitution in its unwritten traditions, hal- 
lowed by the example of the immortal Washington — you, 
too, retired, and you, too, sir, live and will live forever in 
your countrymen's hearts. 

" Sir, in the name of Chicago and its people, I prophesy 
that when time shall have grown old ; when the page of 
history shall have become dim by the side of the great 
quartet who have gone before you, your name, your statue, 
will be placed, and by the side of Washington, of Jefferson, 
of Jackson, and of the immortal Lincoln, will live the name 
of Grant. 

" Sir, again allow me to tender to you a hearty welcome 
to the homes, to the fire-sides, and to the hearts of all the 
i:)eople of Chicago, regardless of creed or of party." 

At the conclusion of the Mayor's remarks, General 
Grant bowed slightly, and responded as follows: 

"Mr. Mayor, Gentlemen of the Committee of 
Reception, Gentlemen of Chicago and of Illinois: 
I feel very much honored by the welcome which I am 
receiving at your hands to-day. I feel highly honored by 
the speech of welcome which has just been uttered by your 
worthy Mayor. It is something that is so personal to my- 
self that it would hardly be in good taste for me to respond 
to the language of it, and it leaves nothing, therefore, for 
me to do than to repeat my thanks to this committee and to 
the citizens of your city for the hearty reception which they 
have "iven me. 



TOUR AltOLND TIIK WORLD. 449 

"In regard to one allu-ioti, to my receptions abroad, I 
will say that in every case I felt it was a tribute to my own 
country. I will add, further, that our country stands differ- 
ently abroad In the estimation of the Europeans and East- 
<;rn nations from what it did a fpiartcr of a century ago. 
An American citizen is regarded in a different light from 
the American citizen of a quarter of a century ago. At 
that time it was believed that we had not a nation; that it 
was merely a confederation of st ites tied together by a rope 
of sand, that would give way upon the slightest friction. 
They have found out their grand mistake. They know 
that we have now a go\ ernment, that we are a Nation, and 
that we are a strong, intelligent, and brave people, capable 
of judging and knowing our rights, and determined on all 
•occasions to maintain tnem against either domestic or 
foreign foes. And that is the explanation of the receptions 
Avhich you have received through me while I was abroad. 
Gentlemen, I thank you." 

As General Grant concluded his remarks, the Mayor 
invited the crowd to come foi ward in twos and shake hands 
with the General, stating that the General had seen a great 
deal and was very hungry. Many of the old comrades 
came forward and reminded him pleasantly in passing ot 
the last time the}' met. 

The pressure of the crowd became so great that Mayor 
Harrison was compelled to ask them to desist, and at 4 
o'clock the Mayor and Colonel George R. Davis took him 
in charge, and conducted him to his private parlor, where 
a small company was assembled, consisting ofMi^s. General 
Grant. Mrs. Sheridan, the Hon. Thomas Hoyne, and 
others. After a few complimentary remarks, he was con- 
ducted to his carriage by General Chetlain and the Hon. 
Thomas Hoyne, and departed to take dinner at his son's 
house. 



450 



GENERAL U. S. GRANT S 



Speaking of the decorations, the Inter-Ocean of the I3lh 
says: " The appearance of the city was a surprise to the 
people of Chicago themselves. The gay attire which they 
had been planning for weeks being richer and more com- 
plete than had been pictured in anticipation. There were a 
number of establishments that might be named which spent 
over a thousand dollars in each adornment; but when thou- 
sands worked with willing hands and loving hearts, if with 
a smaller expenditure of money, to swell the general wel- 
come of the city to her guest, it would be perhaps unfair, 
as it is unnecessary, to mention the few who, in this respect, 
were able to surpass the rest." 

" The grand arch, upon which the General first looked as 
he stepped from the cars, spanned his path, with the words, 
' Chicago's Welcome,' and as he rode over the four miles 
of the route Chicago's welcomes were spoken "all along 
the line" in bowers of living green; in arches bright with 
the colors of gay bunting; in lovely festoons of flowers 
which drooped to the very ground from the highest tops of 
the brown-stone fronts of Michigan avenue ; in rich cano- 
pies which carried their tributes out to the very steps of his 
carriage; in the magnificent trappings and beautiful hang- 
ings on marble fronts; in floating pendants and waving ban- 
ners; in the millions of flags which covered the city almost 
as a great mantle of patriotism and loyalty, and finally in 
portraits on every side of Grant himself, and in matters 
which repeated again his own terse and patriotic utterances 
that have become the dearly-prized household words of the 
people. 

" From out such wondrous profusion in decorations and 
such bewildering beauties of embellishment along four 
miles of thoroughfare, it is a manifest impossibility to 
describe the appearance of each building, or even any con- 
siderable number of the most prominent." 



TOUR AKOIND THE WOIiLD. 45 1 

The St. Louis Globe Dcjiiccrat, in speaking of tht C 
cage reception on the I2th said, " Chicago was gloriouisly 
decorated. * * * The scenes along the route of the 
procession were ahnost beyond description, * * * the 
four hundred thousand people who lined the streets were 
wildly, madly enthusiastic." St. Louis Republican (Dem.): 
" The whole central part of the city was a gorgeous scene 
of jDatriotism, embodied in bunting and flowing out in 
colors such as would make the r;iinbow hide its head." It 
seems as if the whole Northwest had poured out its pop- 
ulation to the citizen thus auspiciously returning to his 
home." 

The Cincinnati Cotnmercial ?>7nd: "A noticeable fea- 
ture of the decorations was that not only were buildings own- 
ed by Republicans replete with ornaments, but those of jDrom- 
inent Democrats were among the most brilliant in their dis- 
play of colors and evergreens. Messrs. Field & Leitcr, both 
outspoken Democrats, made a lavish display. The Demo- 
cratic Palmer House, besides having made itself his head- 
quarters during his stay, presented adornments in profusion, 
which were of the most patriotic character. McVicker, who 
is a life-long Democrat, enveloped his theatre from top to 
bottom wnth red, white, and blue, with flags at every avail- 
able point, and allegoi'ical paintings fifty-two feet long and 
fifteen feet high, representing General Grant as a tanner at 
Galena, as the victorious soldier at Appomattox, and as the 
inaugurated President of the nation. 

The Cincinnatti Gazette said : " The military display 
was fine. * * * The reception in the evening was 
an indescribable ovation." 

The Cincinnati Eiiquii'er (Dem.) said: "This was 
Grant's day, The Soldiers of the State of Illinois, of the 
State of Indiana, of Michigan, and of Wisconsin gave him 
such a demonstration as was never before seen in this city, 



452 GENERAL U. S. GRANT's 

or indeed any Western city. There was no concealing or 
denying it because the enthusiasm was so unusual that every- 
body had to acknowledge the fact." 

The Louisville Courier- yournal (Dtm.) said: "Gen- 
eral Grant and party appeared at the head of the 
second division, and the enthusiam was indescribable. He 
appeared tired, wearied, and exhausted, but as cheer on 
cheer arose he lifted his hat wearily and smiled. A descrip- 
tion of the entire progress of the procession might be 
summed in the words, no living or dead man ever received 
such an outburst of enthusiam. Ten minutes after the pro- 
cession started, the sun burst through the clouds, adding 
fresh zeal to the excitement. No such a rain storm has 
occurred this year; no such a dejjth of mud was ever known; 
so grand a street pageant was never seen, and no such wild 
and unbridled excitement was ever ex^Dcrienced, is the 
verdict." 

The Indianopolis Journal said: "Chicago to-day 
gave Grant a heroic reception, a cosmopolitan wel- 
come, and to her hundreds upon thousands of popu- 
lation there were added a hundred thousand visitors. 
Never has this city been so densely packed, and never was 
an American citizen accorded such a hearty greeting as has 
been given this man. Chicago is celebrated for great deeds, 
but this event will pass to record as the grandest and the 
greatest and there is no event in the prophesy of man that 
can call out a more brilliant one." 

The Detroit Post said : " Chicago has never seen any- 
thing like this day in all its history, or rather, it has seen 
several occasions bearing some analogy to it, but none to 
equal it in magnitude. Never before has the city pre- 
sented such a festive apjDcarance. Millions of flags and 
banners were floating to the breeze, and every building on 
the South Side and thousands of private residences every, 
where were covered with the decorations." 



TOUR AROUND THE WORLD. 458 

The formal reception by the society of the Army of the 
Tennessee, at Haverl\'s theatre, in the evening, fitly closed 
the extraordinary record of the day. The stage had been 
transformed into a picturesque war scene, the hills in the 
vicinity of Vicksburg rising in the distance, and nearer, the 
fortifications of the Union troops. Field pieces were in 
place pointing outward through the embrasures, and on 
them and about them were grouped artillery men in regula- 
tion dress. The grouping had a tableaux effect that 
brought into clear relief the gathering of distinguished 
gentlemen in front. The theatre was beautifully and elabo- 
rately decorated in flowers and evergreens. 

In the parquette, dress circle, balcony and gallery was 
a select audience, taking in the members of the different 
army societies and many of Chicago's leading citizens. As 
many of the veterans wore uniforms, and as many of the 
ladies, even in the gallery were in full dress, the assemblage 
was a brilliant one, even for that city. 

Prayer was offered by Rev. Dr. H. W. Thomas. 

The first address of the evening was by the Hon. E. B. 
Washburne, who spoke a general welcome to the society 
and to General Grant. Mr. Washburne was at his best, 
and his courtly manner and well chosen words gave to his 
speech of welcome a special charm. A warm tribute to 
McPherson, and a graceful mention of Grant, called out 
responsive bursts of applause. 

He was followed by Governor Cullom, who spoke the 
welcome of the state. His unusually clear cut tones, his 
dignified deliberation, and his special emphasis were hints 
to those who knew him that his speech was not to be an 
ordinary one, and it was not. His first reference to national 
sentiment and nationality was the signal for a hearty round 
of enthusiasm, and the plain talk that followed was 
applauded to the echo. He made a dramatic mention of 



454 GENERAL ^. S. GRANT S 

Grant that brought that gentleman to his feet in response 
to continued calls from the audience. A reference to the 
incomjjarable Sherman and the chivalric Logan compelled 
each of those gentlemen to follow the example of Grant, 
and rise in answer to the calls from the people in front. 

Mayor Harrison spoke the welcome of the city, speaking 
in his usual style, and saying many good things, whenever 
he dropped an incidental remark about the distinguished 
ex-President, the audience stopjDed Mr. Harrison with 
cheers, and kept up the noise until General Grant arose and 
acknowledged the compliment with a bow. 

General Sherman responded briefly and pointedly, his 
first remark, to the effect that Chicago was ready and will- 
ing, for a consideration, to feed the world, calling out a 
double round of applause. 

The annual address, by General Gresham, was read in 
a smooth, lawyer-like manner, and, coming after the 
impromptu speeches, seemed at first as not likely to claim 
the close attention of those outside of army circles. But 
soon the people awoke to the realization that a scholarly 
gentleman was discussing vital questions of general interest, 
and the speaker not only had the closest attention of all, 
but the heartiest commendation. 

After the presentation of a banner to the Society by 
General Logan in a graceful speech, and a response, half 
playful, half earnest, by General Sherman, it was an- 
nounced that there would be a song. This was met by a 
determined call for General Grant, and he arose as if to 
excuse himself, saying he would fill the regular order on 
the programme. The audience, quick to see the drift of 
this remark, informed him that he was not on the pro- 
gramme, and insisted that he should go on. As he took 
from his pocket a few pages of manuscript, the crowd 
cheered, and the ofiicers on the stage turned toward him 
with new interest on their faces. 



TOUR AROUXD THE WOitl.D. 455 

The General stepped forward and said : 

Comrades of the Society of the Army of the 
Tennessee: After an absence of several years from the 
gatherings of the society of the Army of the Tennessee, 
it affords me heart-felt pleasure to again he with you, my 
earliest comrades in arms in the great conflict for nationality 
and union of all the states under our free and always-to-be 
maintained government. In my long absence from the 
country I have had the most favorable opportunity for seeing 
and comparing, in my own mind, our institutions with all 
European countries, and most of those of Asia — comparing 
our resources, developed and dormant, the capacity and 
energy of our people for upholding and developing its 
resources, with most of the civilized people of the world. 
Everywhere, from England to Japan, from Russia to Spain 
and Portugal, we are understood, our resources highly 
appreciated, and the skill, energy, and intelligence of the 
citizens recognized. My receptions have been everywhere 
kind, and an acknowledgement that the United States is a 
Nation, a strong, independent, and free Nation, composed 
of strong, brave, and intelligent people, capable of judging 
of their rights, and ready to maintain them at all hazards. 
This is a non-partisan association, but comjDOsed of men 
who are united in the determination that no foe, domestic or 
foreign, shall interpose between us and the maintenance 
of our grand, free, and enlightened institutions, and unity 
of all the States. The area of our country, its fertility, 
the energy and resources of our people, with a sparsity of 
population compared to area, postpones the day for genera- 
tions to come when our descendants will have to consider 
the question of how the soil is to support them, how the 
most can be joroduced to sustain human life, without refer- 
ence to the taste or desires of the people, and when but few 
can exercise the privilege of the plain luxury of selecting 



\^6 GENERAL U. S. GRANt's 

the articles of food they will eat, the quantity and quality 
of clothing they wear, but will remain the abundant home 
of all who possess the energy and strength, and mijke good 
Use of them, if we remain true to ourselves. Such a country 
IS one to be proud of. I am proud of it — proud that I am 
an American citizen. Every citizen, North, South, East, 
and West, enjoys a common heritage, and should feel an 
equal pride in it. 

"I am glad these society meetings keep up their 
interest so long after the events which, in a sense, they com- 
memorate, have passed away. They do not serve to keep 
up sectional feeling or bitterness toward our late foe; but 
they do keep up the feeling that we are a nation, and that 
it must be preserved, one and indivisible. We feel and 
maintain that these who fought, and fought bravely, on 
the other side from us, have equal claims with ourselves in 
all the blessings of our great and common country. We 
claim for them the right to travel all over this broad land 
and select w4iere they please, the rightt o settle, become 
citizens, and enjoy their political and religious convictions, 
free from molestation or ostracism either on account of them 
or their connection with the past. We ask nothing more 
for ourselves, and would rejoice to see them become pow- 
erful rivals in the development of our great resources, sn 
the acquisition of all that shall be desirable in this life, and 
in patriotism and love of country." 

The little speech was extremely well received, and as 
the General folded his paper and put it in his vest pocket, 
there was a round of applause, interrupted by a vigorous 
call for General Sheridan, which soon brought him to the 
front to make a happy little two-minute speech. Then, at 
the order of the now determined audience, came Pope, 
Oglesby, Schoficld, and Mark Twain, each to speak briefly. 
Frank Lumbard's quartet did fine service. 



TOUR AROUND THE WORLD. 457 

The tattoo was then given, and the president announced 
tlie society adjourned till the following morning. 

The Jnter- Ocean in summing up the welcome given 
General Grant, said: 

Chicago has spoken her welcome. With what warmth 
and demonstrativeness is best shown in our reports giving 
particulars of the great display. If the warmth and earnest- 
ness of the great display are to be judged by the magnitude 
of the parade, by the numbers and enthusiasm of the people, 
by the presence in the procession of repi'esentatives of every 
department of government, every branch of business, every 
industrial interest, and every class of citizens, then Chicago 
has spoken as has no other community. The commanders 
and soldiers of the old armies, the commanders of the pres- 
ent army, the miltary authorities and military forces of the 
state, the different departments of the city government, the 
manufacturing and commercial interests of the state and 
city, were never before combined to speak so grand a wel- 
come. Chicago has spoken as only Chicago can speak. 
And she means it. 

The following day the General attended a reception 
given by the Union Veteran Club, given at McVicker's 
theatre, at 10:30 A. m. The speech making was preceded 
by an allegorical tableau. 

The tableau presented a semicircle of young girls, with 
a throne in the middle of the arc bearing the presiding 
genius. This central figure was a representative of Colum- 
bia, who excited unanimous approval. She was seated on 
a dais, and above her gleaming helmet she bore a standard 
— that of the Twenty-first Illinois Infantry — which was a 
mere tatter. The bare arms were bound at wrist and upper 
arm with broad gold bracelets. The pure white of the 
waist was relieved by a silken flag draped as the skirt. 
The lady, Miss Adella Barker, by her many charms, pre- 



458 GENERAL U. S. GRAXT'S 

sided a worthy Queen over the goddesses. On her broad 
shield she bore the sahitation to General .Grant, "In the 
name of the United States you saved, I welcome you." 

The young and charming representatives of the states 
who supported them, were dressed in pure white, with 
strands of flowers caught in their skirts and clusters of 
flowers on the breast and in the hair. They wore graceful 
crowns of blue, edged with crimson and ornamented, each 
with three silver stars. Flowing down from the crowns, 
the luxuriant hair, in almost every instance blonde, reached 
to the waist. In her right hand each goddess held a blue 
shield bearing the name of a state and the words after it, 
" Welcome you." In the other hand she flourished a small 
flag. 

Six little goddesses, representing the Territories, stood 
a little in advance of the main line, directly in front of 
Columbia, and bloomed all over with gay flowers. 

A noticeable representative of a State was the tall bru- 
nette, bearing on her shield the legend, " Michigan wel- 
comes you." Her raven hair sweeping down her shoulders 
was matched b}^ a broad, black scarf, in memory of 
Chandler. 

General Chetlain, President of the Union Veterans, 
made an address of welcome. An eloquent address by 
Gen. Ilogan received hearty and enthusiastic notice; he was 
followed by General Grant, who said: 

"Comrades and Veterans of the Late War: I 
was entirely unaware ot the object of my coming here this 
morning. I thought it was to be the place where we were 
to meet this evening, or some other j^lace. I was not aware 
that I was going to meet so many of my old conn-ades. I 
assure you it affords me great pleasure to meet you here, 
and to meet you everywhere. 

"Veterans of the old war, and my former companions in 



TOUR AROUND TITK WORLD, 459 

all mv travels, I have not been in a country, in hardly a 
town, and in hardly a place, in the two and a-half years 
that I have been away from my own country where I 
have not met some of your number. As we heard last 
night, wars, while not desirable, still are not always unat- 
tended with good. We believe sincerely that the war 
which we M^aged was attended with great good to our coun- 
try. We believe that our victory redounded to the benefit 
of the vanquished, as well as to ourselves. We believe 
that they to-day would have been in a very much worse 
condition had their cause succeeded, and we certainly would 
have been infinitely worse off. Wars render another ben- 
efit. People who grow up in time of profound peace are 
very apt to vegetate and live along in the place, or near 
the place, of their birth, but having been torn away from 
their homes, as you all were, and having passed through 
the struggles and privations of the war, you were the more 
content to return to your homes, or to go to the best places 
for the development of your intelligence and your talents. 
The veterans of the war are now scattered over this broad 
land, are now developing our Territories, opening new 
mines, clearing new farms, and in every way adding to the 
greatness and prosperity of our nation. They are making 
our country felt, known, and appreciated wherever a flag 
can wave. 

"Now, gentlemen, I have said a great deal more than I 
had any idea I could say when I got up. But, as Mark 
Twain very aptly remarked last evening, I could make a 
very much better extemporaneous speech if I had a couple 
of hours to prepare it." 

The General's address aroused the wildest enthusiasm, 
the audience springing to its feet and giving round after round 
of applause. Hon. Emory A. Storrs delivered the address of 
the dav, and was accorded a flattering reception. In 



460 GENERAL U. S. GRANt'S 

response to repeated calls from the audience, Gen. Fuller, 
ex-Gov. Oglcsby, Gen. Woodford, of N. Y,, made brief 
but eloquent addresses. " Taps " ended the programme, 

At 12 o'clock, General Grant lunched at the residence 
of Hon. E. B. Washburne. The affair was private and 
unostentatious. At 2 130 o'clock he attended the reception 
of the society of the Army of the Tennessee. Mrs. Grant 
received with the General. Receiving with her were Mrs. 
Gen. Logan, Mrs. W. Q. Gresham, Mrs. P. H. Sheridan,. 
Mrs. A. L. Chetlain, and Mrs. Fred Grant. The ladies 
who received with the General, were in full dress. 

Gen. Chetlain and Gen. Logan presented each of the 
long line, announcing their names and passing them on. 
The General stood the ordeal with grim silence, occasion- 
ally muttering a word with old acquaintances. Each comer 
was presented to Mrs. Grant, and the receiving ladies as 
far as possible, but the encounter with the General and his 
wife was generally sufficient for all who passed. 

To carry out the programme of the day, at 3:30 the 
General was compelled to leave, and attend the reception 
of the Union Veteran Club, where the wildest enthusiasm 
was manifested. Shortly after 4 o'clock, he withdrew to 
his private parlors to seek the needed rest and prepare him- 
self for the evening's business. 

In the evening the General attended the grand banquet* 
at the Palmer House, given by the members of the Army 
of the Tennessee. No handsomer sight was ever seen in 
Chicago than that afforded, when the 460 banqueters had 
all found seats at eighteen tables, which had been prepared 
for their reception. The iiall was handsomely draped with 
flags and embellished with evergreens and flowers. Gen. 
W. T. Sherman presided. The supper itself was a success. 
We give the menu: 



TOUR AROUND THE WORLD. ^1 

THIRTEENTH ANNUAL BANQUET 

OF THE 

SOCIETY OF THE ARMY OF THE TENNESSEE, 

MENU. 

Blue Point Ojsters on the Shell. Sauterne. 

Green Turtle Soup. Sherry. 

Boiled California Salmon. Holland Sauce. Civet 

Parisienne Potatoes. 

Roast Fillet of Beef, Larded with Mushrooms. 

Champaj^ne. 

Croquets of Potatoes. 

Cutlets of Minced Game. 

Sweet-breads with Spinach. 

Croquets of Chicken. 

Roman Punch. 

Roast Saddle of Venison. 

Roast Prairie Chicken. 

Buffalo Steaks. Truffle Sauce. 

Breasts of Ducks, Larded, Currant Jellj. 

Fillet of Wild Turkey. Cranberry Sauce. 

Cliicken Salad. 

Shrimp Salad. 

Celery Salad 

Neapolitan ice Cream. 

Ices. 

Cakes, assorted. 

Wine Jellies. 

Charlotte Russe. 

Meringes, assorted. 

Fruits. 

Hard Tack. 

Roquefort and English Cheese. 

Celery, 

Coifee. 

Cognac. 

Cigars. 

Palmer House, Nov. 13, 1S79. 

At 10:45 General Sherman arose and quieted the tumuH 
and proceeded to say: 

"Gentlemen: We have a long- list before us, and one 
of the richest I have ever had spread before me. And I am 
extremely anxious that this evening shall be a bright one in 
our future memories. We can only accomplish this result 
by almost absolute silence; and I beg, almost implore of 
you, every man, to be just as quiet as possible, because 



462 GENERAL U. S. GRANt's 

sounds added together reverberate in this hall, and will spoil 
the best speech that can possibly be made." 

He then complimented the musicians upon the excel- 
lence of their efforts thus far; and suggested that where the 
programme called for music, they simply give a soft strain 
and not a whole tune. " Alake it, as it were, a loop be- 
tween the speeches. With a few admonitions of this kind, 
I am sure we will have an evening, a night, if you please, 
of cheering entertainment. 

"I do not pretend to say any thing myself; but will call 
the toasts in the order in which they are recorded on the 
programme, simply introducing each speaker. There hap-, 
pen to be three speakers absent, but their places have been 
filled by the Committee, and I have recorded their names, 
so that the speeches will follow each other in quick succes- 
sion. Each speaker is requested to speak as long as he 
holds his audience. As to applause, gentlemen, recollect 
that that takes a good deal of time. A good, hearty laugh 
and marked applause are all right, but don't drawl it out 
into a long giggle, or into a noise. Let the applause be 
short and emphatic. 

"Now, gentlemen, we will proceed at once to the regu- 
lar order of the evening. And I am pleased to see every- 
body smiling and pleasant. Some of the speakers who are 
in your midst will speak from their present position, either 
by getting on a chair or standing as they please. But, 
wherever they are, I beg the audience to give them a re- 
si^ectful hearing." 

" The first toast of the evening," said Gen. Sherman, "is 
Our Country — Her Place Among Nations, " and will be 
responded to by Gen. U. S. Grant." 

As General Grant arose he was received with tumultu- 
ous applause and cheers, which lasted several minutes, the 
greeting being extremely cordial. When silence was re- 
stored he said: 



tour ajiound tuk world. 463 

"Mr. President and Genteemen of the society 
OF THE Army of the Tennessee, and Guests: Notice 
was sent to me some days ago that I was to respond to a 
toast here, but I paid no attention to it at the time, and had 
no idea, until I got here, of the toast I was to reply to. I 
had relied upon it that there would be half a dozen or more 
speakers before I would be called upon, and that, during 
that time, there would be a man out in the hall I would 
want to see, or thought I would exert some other flank 
movement by which I would get out of it. Finding, how- 
ever, after my arrival here, that I was to be the first one 
called upon, and hardly feeling it would be proper to look 
for that man so early in the evening, I put in a substitute, 
but the President of your Society has not called upon the 
man. I know if he h d called the name on his paper you 
would have heard much more said about the position of our 
country among the nations of the earth than I can say to 
you. I can feel what the Mayor would probably have said 
if the President had called upon him. But, as I have to 
say a word, I shall rely now upon your signifying, in a very 
few moments, your disapprobation of what I am saying, so 
as to let me off. The President has given notice that we 
are not to speak any longer than we can hold the audience. 
Our Nation we have been in the habit ourselves of looking 
upon as being one of the first nations of the earth. 

"For a long period back the Yankee has had not only a 
very respectable opinion of himself individually, but of his 
country as a whole. It has been our own opinion that we 
had nothing to fear in a contest with any other Power. I 
am pleased to say, that from the observations that I have 
been able to make in the last two and a half years, we are 
beginning to be regarded a little by other Powers as we in 
our vanity have heretofore regarded ourselves. We do, 
among other nations, I think, to-day, not only in our own 



464 GK.NERAL U. S. GRANt's 

conceit, but in the acknowledgment of other nations, occupy 
the position of one of the first Powers in all that goes to 
make up a great nationality. We have the strength, we 
have the individual self-assertion, independence; and we 
have to a greater degree than almost any other nation the 
power of colonizing, of settling up new country, opening it 
and developing it. We have also the very great advantage 
of being without neighbors to molest or make us afraid. It 
is true we have a northern frontier, and we have a southern 
frontier, but we get along with- a very small army. We 
keep no standing army. What little we do keep, as some 
one remarked the other day, is a standing army because it 
has no time to sit down. Mr. President [who was seated], 
I find you filling the position with a good deal of ability. I 
don't know of anything I can specially add to what I have 
said, except in the way of advice; and that is, let us be true 
to ourselves; avoid all bitterness and ill-feeling, either on 
the part of sections or parties, toward' each other, avoid 
quarreling among ourselves, and we need have no fears for 
the future of maintaining the stand that we have taken 
among nations, so far as opposition from foreign nations 
goes. Gentlemen, I am much obliged for your attention." 

The "President and Congress" was responded to by 
General Logan, in an eloquent address, which was received 
with rapturous applause. "The Army of the Tennessee" 
was responded to by General Hurlburt, and was a glorious 
tribute to its two commanders. Grant and Sherman. The 
speaker took his seat amid great enthusiasm . and cheers. 
The toast, "Our First Commander, Gen. U. S. Grant," 
was responded to by Col. Vilas, of Madison, Wis., — a War- 
Democrat — as follows: 

" Your call invites me, sir, I am conscious, to give 
expression to the profound feeling with which every heart 
of our assembled companions respond to the stirring senti- 



TOUR AROUND THE WORLD. 465 

ment. But how shall I attempt to choose, in the brief 
compass the occasion allows, from the multitudinous 
thoughts that crowd the mind? Our first commander, the 
illustrious General, whose fame has grown to fill the world! 
Nay, more! Our old Band of the Tennessee was his first 
army! What honorable memories of old association you, 
companions, may now recall ! How splendid was your 
entrance on the scene of arms! The anxious eye of the 
North had long been fixed on the Eastern theatre, almost 
unconscious of the new-formed Armv of the Tennessee 
and its unknown General. Suddenly there fell on the 
startled ear the roar of your fight at Donelson and your 
chieftain's victorious cry, — which waked the country's heart 
to ecstasy, and rung, like a prophetic knell, the doom our 
Army of Salvation bore to Rel)els, — 'Nothing, but uncon- 
ditional surrender.' 

" Then, but a few days later, there burst, at Shiloh, upon 
this Army of the Tennessee, the flame and fury of ' the 
first great field-fight of the war.' In desperate doubt the 
night-fall of the bloody day closed on the unequal struggle. 
Higher, then, rose the iron n solution of that great com- 
mander. Urged by cautious counsel to prepare the way 
for retreat,, with trust in your valor, he gave the character- 
istic answer, ' I have not despaired of whipping them yet.' 
And loyally, on the morrow, was he vindicated in that 
reliance, as he rode before his soldiery, driving the enemv 
over the victorious fields. How darkly comes back in recol- 
lection the long and dismal toil in the pestilential swamps 
before impregnable Vicksburg. The sky was overhung in 
gloom, and the soaked earth sunk under the foot. Unlit by 
the flash of powder, unheralded by the noise of arms, in 
miserable darkness, the last enemy irresistibly plied his 
fatal work, changing the river levees — where only was 
solid ground for burial — into tombs for our treblv-decimated 



^66 GENERA). U. S. (illANT S 

ranks. Then, again, new light broke from his troubled 
genius on the scene, and displayed the possible path of 
valor. Breaking past the rebel battlements and across the 
great river, he flung our army into the midst of the hostile 
host, like a mighty gladiator surrounded by his foes, choos- 
ing no escape but in victory. There, w^ith fiery zest, in 
fierce rapidity, he smote the foe the crushing strokes for 
Fort Gibson, Raymond, Jackson, Champion Hills, and 
Black River, and seized the doomed city with the unrelent- 
ing grasp of his Arm}' of the Tennessee. 

"And when, on the new birthday of the Republic, her 
flag shook out its beautiful folds above the ramparts of that 
boasted citadel, the territory of revolt was finally split in 
twain, — the backbone of the Rebellion was broken. 

" Such, in a glance, N-our splendid story ,companions, under 
our first commander. He and his army of the Tennessee 
entered on the page of history together. Together they 
achieved the first great prophetic triumphs for the Union;, 
together the}' followed and fought her enemies from field 
to field, pushing our advancing arms in steady career 
towards the Gulf; nor were their eflforts for our country 
disunited until, having dismembered the vast Rebellion, the 
beginning of its utter downfall had been seen. 

"Guided by his genius, your army had learned to fight 
only to conquer. Parted from him, it forgot not the teach- 
ing. Its march and war struck every revolted State save 
two, but never General anywhere lamented over its retreat 
from the field of arms. Joyfully may we point to that 
exalted fame which, rising like a pinnacle of the Alps, 
breaks thi^ough the firmament above to carry up the name 
of the unconquered Grant; for it is our felicity that, on the 
solid base from which it lifts, history has written the proud 
legend of the Army of the Tennessee, which never shunned 
and never lost, a battle with its foes. 



TOUR AROUND THE WORLD. 467 

Joined to it by such a story, and especially when so 
assembled, his old associates and soldiers in war, we may 
rightfully without censure and without adulation, claim and 
speak the just measure of his merit and renown. Nor shall 
his presence deny that satisfaction to us. His reputation is 
not his, nor even his country's alone. It is, in part, our pecu- 
liar possession. We, who fought to aid its rising, may well 
rejoice in its meridian splendor. 

The foundations of his title are deep laid and safe. 
There was reaction in the minds of our people after the 
intense strain of war, and many distracting subjects for 
attention. But, with regained composure and reflection, 
his reputation augments, and its foundations appear more 
and more immovably fixed for lasting duration. They 
spring not from merely having enjoyed possession of the 
honors of place and power which his countrymen have 
bestowed; others have had them too. They lie not spe- 
cially on his shining courage and personal conduct before the 
enemy, who was never outdone in calm intrepidity, nor in 
the splendid daring with which he ever urged the battle he 
immediately ordered; though long these will live in song 
and story. Beyond the warrior's distinction, which was 
his earlier glory, his is the true genius of the General. The 
strategic learning of the military art was to him a simple 
implement, like colors and brush to a Raphael, not fetters 
to the mind. How like a weapon in a giant's hand did he 
wield the vast aggregation of soldiery whose immensity 
oppressed so many minds! How easily moved his divis- 
ions, yet how firm the place of all ! How every soldier 
came to feel his participation a direct contribution to the 
general success. And when, at length, his merit won the 
government of the entire military power of the North, how 
perfect became, without noise or friction, the co-operation 
of every army, of every strength, throughout the wide ter- 



46S GEXERAI, U. S. GRAN'T'S 

ritory of war towards the common end! Subordinate every 
will and jealous soul, the profound military wisdom of the 
capital even, to the clear purpose and comprehensive grasp 
of the one commanding mind. Then how rapidly crum- 
bled on every side the crushed revolt! When shall we find 
in past records the tale of such a struggle so enormous in 
extent, so nearly matched at the outset, so desperately 
contested, so effectively decided ? Through what a course 
of uninterrupted victory did he joroceed from the earliest 
engagements to a complete dominion of the vast catastro- 
phe! Nor should it be forgotten, he fought no barbai'ians, 
ill-equipped, undisciplined, not commanded by educated 
skill ; but against soldiers of the finest spirit, armed with the 
best weapons, standing on their own familiar ground, and 
led bv veteran Generals of well-trained science, one of 
whom, at least, was never overmatched on his chosen field 
before. 

" Sjoare, in pity, the poor brain which cannot see, in this 
career, more than a dogged pertinacity! Out upon the 
unjust prejudice which will consciously disparage the true 
meed of genius! Leave it where his reliant silence leaves 
it; leave it to history! leave it to the world. 

" But in the great cause, so well understood, and the great 
results to men, so well accomplished, the basis of his renown 
is justly broadened. For the salvation of this Government 
of freedom for mankind we took up arms. When liberty 
was safe they were laid down again. Risen to the highest 
seat of power, he has descended as a citizen of equal rank 
with all. This goes to the soul of American liberty, 
ennobling individual citizenship above all servants in 
oflice. His is indeed the noblest grandeur of mankind who 
can rise from the grasp of overtopping power above the 
ambition of self to exalt the ambition of humanity, 
denying the spoils of the brief time to the lasting 



__!: 



TOUll AKOl'ND TIIK WORLD. 469 

guerdon of immortal honor. The judgment of innne- 
diate contcmpoi'arics has been a])t to rise too high or 
fall too low. But let not detraction or calumny mislead. 
They have ever been the temporal accompaniments of 
human greatness. That glory cannot rise beyond the clouds, 
which passes not through the clouds. We may confidently 
accept the judgment of the world. It has been unmistak- 
abh' delivered. I'ut latch', as he had pressed his wander- 
ing course about the round earth, mankind have every- 
where bowed in homage at his coming, as the ancient 
devotees of the East fell before the sini at rising. These 
honors were not paid to his person, which was unknown; 
they were not paid to his country, for which he went on no 
errand, and whose representative never had the like before; 
they were not paid to him as to some jDOtentate of a people, 
for he journeyed not as a man in power. They have been 
the willing prostration of mortality before a glory imper- 
ishable. 

"His memory shall, indeed, be in the line of the heroes of 
war, but distinctive and apart from the greater number. 
Not with the kind of Alexander, who ravaged the earth to 
add to mere dominion; nor of Beiisarius, who but fed the 
greedy craving of an fmperial beast of prey; not with 
iSIarlborough, Eugene, Wellington, who played the parts 
set them by the craft of diplomacy ; not with the Napoleons, 
who chose " to wade through slaughter to the throne, and 
shut the gates of mercy on mankind;" not with Ca3sar, who 
would have put the ambitious hand of arms on the delicate 
fabric of constitutional freedom; America holds a higher 
place in the congregation of glory for her heroes of 
Liberty, where sits in expectation, her majestic Washington. 
In nobler ambition than the gaining of empire, they have 
borne their puissant arms for the kingdom of man, where 
Liberty reigneth forever. From the blood poured out in 



470 



GENERAL U. S. GRANT S 



their warfare, sweet incense rose to Heaven; and angels 
soothed, with honorable pride, the tears which sorrow 
started for the dead. 

" Home again now, our first commander, after the journey 
of the world! Here, here again, we greet him, at our 
social board, where with recurring years, we regale on 
the deeper-ripening memories of our soldiership for Free- 
dom. Partakers of the labors, the perils, the triumphs, 
which were the beginnings of his glory, we join now, with 
exultation, in the welcoming honors by which his grateful 
countrymen tell their foreknowledge of the immortality 
of his renown. Long and many be the years, illustrious 
leader before your hour of departure come! Green and vig- 
orous be your age, undecayed every faculty of mind and 
sense, in full fruition of the w^ell-earned joys of life; happy 
in the welfare of your native land, the love of your coun- 
trymen, the admiration of the world ! " 

The vast assembly rose to its feet as the eloquent 
Colonel concluded his I'esponse and sat down. The hall 
resounded with applause and cheers, and everybody waved 
a napkin or a handkerchief in the air to show appreciation 
of what must be considered as the most dignified and 
scholarly response, made all the more enjoyable by the 
Colonel's eloquence, of the entire evening. Colonel Vilas 
was obliged to respond to all this enthusiasm by remounting 
his chair and receiving three rousing cheers as he did so. 
The " Officers and Soldiers of the Mexican War,'* 
responded to by General Woodford. " The Army of the Po- 
tomac," i*esponded toby Leonard Swett. "The Army of the 
Cumberland — its leaders." Response by General Wilson. 
"The other Armies. " Response by General Pope. " The 
Volunteer Soldiers," by Colonel Robert G. Ingersoll. 
« The Patriotic People," Emory A. Storrs. "Woman," 
General Fletcher. The last regular toast of the evening 



TOUR AROUXD THE WORLD. 47I 

was, " The Babies; as they comfort us in our sorrows, let 
us not forget them in our festivities," responded to by 
Mark Twain. He said : 

" I like that. We have not all had the good fortune to 
be latlies. We have not all been generals, or poets, or 
statesmen, but when the toast works down to the babies we 
stand on common ground, for we have all been babies. It 
is a shame that, for a thousand years, the world's banquets 
have utterly ignored the baby, as if he didn't amount to 
anything, If you will stop and think a minute, — if you will 
go back fifty or a hundred years to your early married life, 
and recontemplate your first baby, — you will remember 
that he amounted to a good deal, and even something over. 
You soldiers all know that when that little fellow arrived 
iit family headquarters you had to hand in your resignation. 
He took entire command. You became his lackey — his 
mere body-servant, and you had to stand around, too. He 
Mas not a commander who made allowances for time, dis- 
tance, weather, or any thing else. You had to execute his 
■Older whether it was possible or not. And there was only 
one form of machinery in his manual of tactics, and that 
was the double-quick. He treated you with every sort of 
insolence and disrespect, and the bravest of you didn't dare 
to say a word. You could face the death storm of Donel- 
son and Vicksburg, and give back blow for blow, but when 
he clawed your whiskers, and pulled your hair, and twisted 
your nose, you had to take it. When the thunders of war 
were sounding in your ears, you set your faces toward the 
batteries, and advanced with steady tread, but when he 
turned on the terrors of his war-whoop, you advanced in the 
other direction, and mighty glad of the chance, too. When 
he called for soothing-sj'rup, did you venture to throw out 
any side remarks about certain services being unbecoming 
an officer .and a gentleman? No. You got up and got 



472 GENERAL U. S. (JKANT S 

It. When he ordered his pajj bottle, and it was not warm 
did you talk back? Not you. You went to work and 
warmed it. You even descended so far in your menial 
office as to take a suck at that warm, insipid stuff, just to see 
if it was right, — three parts water to one of milk, — a touch 
of sugar to modify the colic, and a drop of peppermint to 
kill those immortal hiccoughs. I can taste that stuff. And 
how many things you learned as you went along! Senti- 
mental young folks still take stock in that beautiful old say- 
ing, that when the baby smiles it is because the angels are 
whispering to him. Very pretty, but too thin — simply 
wind on the stomach, my friends. If the baby proposed to 
take a walk at his usual hour, 2 o'clock in the morning, 
didn't you rise up promptly and remark, with a mental 
addition which would not improve a Sunday-school book 
much, that that was the very thing you were about to 2:)ro- 
pose yourself? Oh! you were under good discipline, and, 
as you went faltering up and down the room in your 
undress uniform, you not only prattled luidignified baby- 
talk, but even tuned up your martial voices and tried to sing 
" Rock-a-bv baby in the tree top," for instance. What a 
spectacle for an Army of the Tennessee! And what an 
affliction for the neighbors, too, for it is not everybody within 
a m.ile around that likes military music at three in the morn- 
ing. And when you had locen keeping this sort of thnig 
up two or three hours, and your little velvet-head intimated 
that nothing suited him like exercise and noise, what did 
you do? You simply went on until you dropped in the las^t 
ditch. The idea that a baby doesn't amount to anything! 
Why, one baby is just a house and a front yard full by 
itself. One baby can furnish more Inisiness than you and 
your whole Interior Departinent can attend to. He is 
enterprising, irrepressible, brimful of lawless activities. 
Do what you please, you can't make him stay on the reser- 



'lOUK AKOUND THE WORLD. 



473 



vation. Sufficient unto the day is one baby. As long as 
you are in your right mind don't you ever pray for twins. 
Twins amount to a permanent riot. And there ain't any 
real difTerence between triplets and an insurrection. 

"Yes, it was high time for a toast to the masses to recog- 
nize the importance of the babies. Think what is in store 
for the present crop! Fifty years from now we shall all be 
dead, I trust, and then this flag, if it still survive (and let us 
hope it may), will he floating over a repub-ic numbering 
300,000,000 souls, according to the settled laws of our 
increase. Our present schooner of state will have grown 
into a political leviathan — a Great Eastern. The cradled 
babies of to-day will be on deck. Let them be well trained, 
for we are going to leave a big contract on their hands. 
Among the three or four million cradles now rocking in the 
land are some which this nation would preserve for ages as 
sacred things, if we could know which ones they are. In 
one of these cradles, the unconscious Farragut of the future 
is at this moment teething; think of it, and putting in a 
word of dead earnest, inarticulated, but perfectly justiflable 
profanity over it, too. In another the future reno\\-ned 
astronomer is blinking at the shining milky way with but a 
liquid interest, poor little chap! and wondering what has 
become of that other one they call the wet nurse. In 
another the future great historian is lying, and doubtless 
will continue to lie until his earthly mission is ended. In 
another the future President is busying himself with no pro- 
founder problem of state than what the mischief has become 
of his hair so early, and in a mighty array of other cradles 
there are now some 60,000 future office-seekers, gettin--'- 
ready to furnish him occasion to grapple with that same 
old problem a second time. And in still one more cradle, 
somewhere under the flag, the future Illustrious commander- 
in-chief of the American armies is so little burdened with 



^74 • GENERAL U. S. GRANT'S 

his approaching grandeurs and responsibihties as to be giv- 
ing his whole strategic mind at this moment to trying to 
find out some way to get his big toe into his mouth — an 
achievement which, meaning no disrespect, tlie illustrious 
guest of this evening turned his attention to some fifty-six 
years ago; and if the child is but a prophecy of the man, 
there are mighty few who will doubt that he succeeded." 

Letters of regret were read from President Hayes, 
members of the cabinet, governors of states, judges of the 
Supreme Court, civil, military and naval officers. The 
Chicago T'rihu7ie, sj^eaking of speeches at this banquet, 
said : 

' These were specimens of oratory, for the most part, that 
every American may be proud of; one or two of the addresses 
were so brilliant that, like Ingersoll's eulogy on Blaine 
in the Cincinnati Convention, they are likely to find their 
way into the prints of all countries; one or two others were 
strikingly characteristic of the humor and sentiment of the 
American people. In an oratorical tournament General 
Grant is, of course, better as a listener than as a talker; he 
is a man of deeds rather than words. The same might be 
said of General Sherman, though, as presiding officer and 
toast-master of the occasion, nis impi-omptu remarks were 
always pertinent and keen." 

Col. Bob. Ingersoll succeeded in retaining the laurels 
which was so long since placed upon his brow, though 
when Col. Vilas, of Madison, sat down, it was thought 
that even Ingersoll's powers of oratory would be severely 
taxed to arouse equal enthusiasm. Ingersoll's theme — " The 
volunteer soldiers " — was one that drew from his warm heart 
the most earnest outpourings of gratitude and eulogy. lie 
had an opportunity to pay a tribute to the men whom he 
most loves and respects in all the world, because they fought 
freely and heroically in the cause of the nation and univer- 



TOUR AROUND THE WORLD. 475 

sal humanity. His siDeccli glittered with hyperbole, rendered 
more brilliant by the orator's earnest delivery, and nearly 
every word seemed like a beautiful picture to the delighted 
senses of his hearers. What more bountiful imagery could 
have been presented than when he spoke of the volunteer 
soldiers as "the defenders of humanity, the destroyers of 
prejudice, the breakers of chains," or, again, as "the sav- 
iors of the Republic and the liberators of men !" How strik- 
ing the figure that Lincoln, in his Emancipation Proclama- 
tion, "copied with the pen what the grand hands of brave 
comrades had wi'itten with their swords!" How pictur- 
esque the greeting to Grant as, "the great leader who, hav- 
ing put a shining band of friendship — a girdle of clasped 
and loving hands around the globe, came home to find 
that every j^romise made in war has now the ring and gleam 
of gold!" How appropriate and stirring was his final apos- 
trophe, ending: "Let us drink to all the living and all the 
dead — to Sherman, and to Sheridan, and to Grant, the 
laureled soldiers of this world, and last to Lincoln, whose 
loving life, like a bow of peace, spans and arches all the 
clouds of war!" There is little wonder that IngersoU was 
interrupted at every sentence with loud and ringing ap- 
plause, though the night was far spent and the assembled 
hundreds weary." 

The speech of Col. Vilas, who responded to the toast, 
" Our First Commander — U. S. Grant," was a genuine 
surprise. Even those who had reason to expect something 
brilliant from him must have been astonished at the rich 
garnishment of language which this Wisconsin orator 
brought to Grant's glory. The latter-day prejudice against 
what is known as " fine writing " was dissipated by the 
sonorous and well rounded periods which he turned off so 
magically, and which took the multitude off their feet. 
This tribute to Grant's renown was the more effective 



476 GENERAL U. S. GKANt's 

because it came from an old Democrat, and there was 
something very like a pointed rebuke to many member,'- of 
his own party when Col. Vilas exclaimed : " Spa; e, in 
pity, the poor brain which cannot see in this career more 
than a dogged pertinacity! Out upon the luijust prejudice 
which will consciously disparage the true meed of genius! 
Leave it where his reliant silence leaves it, — leave it to 
liistory, leave it to the world." The sketch of Grant's 
military achievements was rapid, impetuous, and vivid, but 
the most eloquent part of the speech was that contrasting 
America's military heroes with those of other nations, illus- 
trating their worthier motive's, and ending: "In nobler 
ambition than the giaining of empire, they have borne their 
puissant arms for the Kingdom of Man, where Liberty 
reigneth forever; from the blood poured out in their war- 
fare sweet incense rose to Heaven, and angels soothed with 
honorable pride the tears which sorrow started for the 
dead." 

There were other speeches at the Pahiier House 
banquet which, if not so spirited as the two from whith we 
have quoted, were still specimens of oratory of which all 
Americans will be proud. Notable among these were the 
address of Gen. Woodford who spoke for the Army of the 
Potomac, and that of Mr. Storrs, who paid tribute to the 
patriotism of those who fed and clothed our armies. Mark 
Twain's speech was a characteristic specimen of that 
peculiar American humor that perplexes the people of 
other lands and other manners, and its success is best 
attested by the roars and convulsions of laughter with 
which it was received at an hour when people ordinarily 
find it dillicult to hold up their heads and keep their eyes 
0]Den. His sketch of the immature heroes of the future 
was made up of genuine wit, and, altogether, he was 
delivered of one of the happiest efforts of his life. 



TOUR AROUND THE WORLD. 



477 



The eloquence of the Pahner House banquet will be 
felt throughout the length and breadth of the land, and 
will be memorable in the annals of the Army of the 
Tennessee till the last survivor of that Association shall 
pass away. 

On the 14th, Col. and Mrs. Fred Grant gave a recep- 
tion at their home from 12 to 4 o'clock, and was one of the 
most pleasant gatherings given the honored guest, and was 
attended by the elite of the city. Everything was elegant 
and in perfect order. A profusion of rich and elaborate re- 
ception toilets were displayed by the ladies present, and the 
tasteful blending of colors sei'ved to lend an additional 
beauty to the already brilliant picture. 

Mrs. Grant was richly attired in a princess dress of heavy 
royal purple velvet, ^\'ith front of fringe and purple beads; 
corsage square, and filled in with point lace; heavy wrought 
gold bracelets; diamond cross and earrings; hair in coil, 
fastened with tortoise comb. 

Mrs. Fred Grant wore a rich dress of white striped 
grenadine, embroidered with white silk, with clusters of 
pinks and white roses; diamond jewelry ; hair dressed high, 
with gold band and bangles, and gold ornaments. 

In the evening a reception by the Chicago Club at their 
club house, was second only, perhaps, in importance in the 
series of receptions given General Grant, to that of the 
banquet by the Army of the Tennessee; 1,200 were pres- 
ent. Mr. and Mrs. Grant and the reception party arrived 
early, and took their places in the card room — which is the 
largest apartment in the building — promjjtly at 8 o'clock, in 
the following order: Mr. Grant, with Mrs; Grant immedi- 
ately on his right. Next came Mrs. Gen. Sheridan, then 
Mrs. Fred Grant, then Mrs. Rebert Lincoln and INIrs. Wirt 
Dexter. Immediately on the left of General Grant stood 
Mr. J. M. Walker and E. B. McCagg, who acted as an in- 
troductory committee. 



478 GENERAL U. S. GRANt's 

At about 10 o'clock supper was announced. 

At about 10:45 o'clock the guests began to call for their 
carriages and take their departure for their homes. From 
this time forth the rooms rapidly thinned out, for at a little 
after 11 o'clock the reception closed, and Mr. and Mrs. U. 
S. Grant, accompanied by their son, Col. Fred Grant, and 
his wife, were driven away to the home of the latter. 

Everybody seemed to be well pleased with the enter- 
tainment, and from beginning to end it was a stupendous 
success. The Chicago Club established its reputation for 
giving receptions at the entertainment given in honor of 
President and Mrs. Hayes a 3'ear ago, but last night's effort 
capped the climax. Not a break or a hitch was perceptible 
throughout, and every person must have felt that special 
arrangements had been made for his or her entertainment. 
A more thoroughly enjoyable occasion is not on record in 
Chicago. 

On the Saturday morning the Mexican veterans called 
upon the General in a body, and were received with great 
warmth and cordiality. Speeches were made by Leonard 
Swett, Col. Buell, of California, Hon. A. L. Morrison and 
others. The speakers were rewarded by prolonged 
applause. At two o'clock a general reception was given at 
the Grand Pacific Hotel, and was very generally participated 
in by the jDCople. The reception closed promptly at five 

o'clock. 

In the evening Potter Palmer entertained the dis- 
tino-uished guests, and was fully up to the high order of 
entertainments wliich had been given to the General since 
he first planted foot in Chicago. It being Saturday, the 
reception was not intended to be prolonged until a late 
hour. At eleven o'clock, the guests were greatly dimin- 
ished in numbers, and General and Mrs. Grant took their 
leave of Mr. and Mrs. Palmer, and drove to their son's res- 
idence with the latter and his wife. 



TOUR AROUND THE WORLD. 479 

The display of elaborate and costly toilets outshone any 
previous disj^lay of the week, and each lady seemed to vie 
with the other in the elegance of her costume. 

Mrs. General U . S. Grant wore an elaborate toilet of 
white satin, with white duchess lace front and shirred bot- 
tom, black drapery of lace and trimming of rich embroidery 
and pearls, very low corsage and short sleeves; heavy 
wrought gold bracelets, and diamond and pearl ornaments. 

Mrs. Potter Palmer was richly dressed in a while satin 
plaited skirt, trimmed with wine and gold brocade; superb 
diamond ornaments. 

Mrs. Col. Fred. Grant wore a rich robe of white satin, 
covered with Spanish lace; gold coronet and diamonds. 

Mrs. General Sheridan was tastefully attired in a plain 
black cashmere dress, cut low, and trimmed with duchess 
lace; jet ornaments. 

On Sunday morning, the General attended the Cente- 
nary Methodist Church, H. W. Thomas, D. D., pastor, 
being " at home " during the rest of the day only to his 
most intimate friends. 

The visit of the school children to General Grant at the 
Exposition building on Monday was one of the most not- 
able features of his sojourn. The huge building sv^^armed 
with the little people, forty or fifty thousand in number, all 
of whom had an opportunity to see the hero of the war of 
the rebellion, and many of them a chance to shake hands 
and speak with him. 

The Calumet club entertained the General and Mrs* 
Grant, in the evening at their club house. The guests were 
not so numerous as at the Chicago club reception on Friday 
evening. There was a decided effort made to eclipse the 
other affair by making the list smaller and more select. 
There was a greater display of dress and fashion also. The 
people present numbei-ed about five hundred, and besides 



480 GENERAL U. S. GRANt's 

being representative of the first society of Chicago, com- 
prised also a fair proportion of distinguished persons froir 
abioad who were in the city. 

The toilets were generally of the most fashionable make, 
iind of extremely rich materials. Experienced society peo- 
ple expressed astonishment at the beauty of many of the 
costumes worn and at the bi-illiancy of the display of jewelry 
— diamonds especially seemed to be as fashionable as evei', 
and imported laces for neck wear and trimming were 
idmost the rule. 

ISlrs. General Grant was attired in an elegantly made 
M'hite silk, watered, in combination with garnet brocaded 
silk, with rich fringe of the same; elegant oriental fan, bou- 
quet, tortoise-shell comb in hair, which was dressed high; 
elegant diamond brooch, and solitaire pendants. 

Mrs. Colonel Grant wore a combination creani-colored 
and wine-colored 'brocaded silk; point lace and diamonds. 

The menu was of the most artistic j^ieces of culinary 
art seen in Chicago for many a day, and will doubtless 
become one of the models of the season. It was as follows: 

CALUMET CLUB. 

Reception to 

GENERAL AND MRS. GRANT. 



MENU. 

Escalloped Oysters. 
Oyster Patties a la Bachamel. 



Gelatine of Turkey with Triifiles, en Belle \ ue. 

Boned Partridge with Jelly, en Volierc, 

Boned Quail with Truftles, a la Regence. 

Sliced Buffalo Tongue, a la St. Hubert. 

Breast of Chicken, with Mayonaise, a la Parisenne. 

Gulf Shrimp Salad, Wine Jelly. 

Fillet of Salmon with Mayonaise. 



TOUIi AROL'ND THE WORLD. 481 

Rolled Sandwiches. Vienna Cream Rolls. 



Ornannental Confectionery. 

Assorted Creams and Ices. 

Pudding Glace. Bisque Glace, 

Pudding, a la Yiesselrode. 

Charlotte Russe, Wine Jelly. 

Assorted Cake. 



Fruit. Coffee. 

November 17, 1S79. 

The last day of General Grant's stay in Chicago was 
crowded full of incidents of interest. In the forenoon oc- 
curred a visit to the Chicago Comniandery of the Order of 
the Lo^-al Legion of the United States, where General 
Grant was formally received and decorated as a member of 
the Order. Then followed a call from the only four sur- 
viving veterans of the war of i8i3 residing in Chicago, all 
of them octogenarians, and proud of the privilege of greet- 
ing a military hero wlio ^vas born ten years after their ser- 
vices ended. General Grant's visit to the Protestant Or- 
phan Asylum, the lirst charitable association organized in 
•Chicago, was an important episode in the history of that 
worthy institution, and a memorable experience for its in- 
mates. In the evening the General shed the lustie of his 
presence upon tlie performance at McVicker's Theatre, as 
the guest of the Second Regiment, and thus ended the pub- 
lic portion of 1 is sojourn in Chicago. 

The General and Mrs. Grant left Chicago Wednesday 
morning for their home at Galena, where they arrived 
safely the same day. 

The Jnfer- Ocean, m summing up the week's series of 
■entertainment, said : 

"The demonstration last nio-ht at AlcVicker's closed the 



4S2 GENERAL U. S. GRAXt's 

week in Chicago devoted to the reception of General Grant. 
The week has been a memorable one, and Chicago may 
well be proud of the record she has made. Thei"e has been^ 
from the time of the great demonstration on Wednesday, 
scarcely a break in the line of receptions and entertainments. 
On Wednesday thej'e were over one hundred thousand 
strangers in Chicago, and these, with the citizens who took 
part in the parade, or who turned out to witness it, swelled 
the crowd on the streets to over three hundred thousand. 
Although people were wild with enthusiasm and greatly 
excited, not a single serious accident occurred that da}' or 
during the week. The railroads centering in Chicago 
brought the great crowd of visitors to the city within the 
space of twenty-four hours, and although scores of extra 
trains came in such a way as to bewilder through passen- 
gers and suburban residents, there was little confusion, no 
disarrangement of time tables, and no accidents. 

"Chicago has succeeded in speaking vociferously a most 
hearty welcome to General Grant, and in prolonging the 
festivities and formalities incident to so great an occasion 
without having the record marred by any public or private 
calamity." 

In all these gatherings Grant has been the central 
figure. The people have employed every possible means ta 
express their enthusiam and good feeling. The numerous 
receptions, banquets, and informal meetings were but the 
outgrowth of this sentiment. Not content with a general 
shout of acclamation, or with one great outburst of 
enthusiasm, finding expression in swelling cheers and 
elaborate decorations, the peoi:)le of Chicago have sought 
to testify their appreciation of the work and character of 
General Grant in ways that seemed to them most fitting 
and most expressive. They had only a week in which to 
speak volumes, and they have made good use of the time. 



TOUR AROUND THE WORLD. 483 

The scries of receptions has been In effect a continuous ova- 
tion, and when the people say good-bye to General Grant, 
on his departure for Galena to-day, they will feel that, after 
all that has been said and done during this week, so 
remarkable for its demonstrations, Chicago has not spoken 
half as earnestly as she feels. Through all this experience 
General Grant has conducted himself in such a way as to 
make old friends still more devoted, and to make new ones 
quite as enthusiastic as the old ones. 



4.84 CHRONOLOGICAL, 



CHRONOLOGICAL. 



AROUND THE WORLD CONDENSED. 

The following chronological statement marks the leading incidents 
of General Grant's round the world tour: 

MAY, 1877 

Departure from Philadelphia 17 

Arrival at Queenstown 27 

Arrival at Liverpool 28 

Arrival at Manchester 30 

JUNE. 

Arrival at London I 

Banqueted by Duke of Wellington at Apsley House 2 

Reception at Minister Pierrepont's 5 

Presented with the freedom of the City of London — 15 

Dinner with the Marquis of Lome and Princess Louise 16 

Breakfast with London literati 18 

Dined with the Reform Club 18 

Dinner with the Prince of Wales 19 

Banqueted by the Trinity House, the Prince ot Wales pre- 
siding 24 

Visitto Queen Victoria at Windsor Castle 26-27 

Banqueted by Liverpool citizens — 28 

Dinner with London Journalists 3° 

JULY. 

Address by deputation of British workingmen 3 

Banqueted by the United Service Club, Duke of Cambridge 

presiding 3 

Reception at the American Legation.. — 4 

Departiu'e for the Continent 5 

Arrival at Brussels 6 

Dinner with the King of Belgium -- 8 

Banqueted at Frankfort 12 

Laid corner-stone of new American Protestant Church at Ge- 
neva 27 

AUG. 

Visit to Lake Maggiore 5 

Visit to Copenhagen. . 18 

Returned to England 25 

Presented with tlie freedom of Edinburg and banqueted 31 

SEPT. 

Presented WMth the freedom of Glasgow and banqueted 13 

Monster labor demonstration in the General's honor at New- 

caslle-on-T vne -- 22 

Visit to Siieifield 26 

Vibilud bhakspeare's tomb 28 



CHRONOLOGICAL. 485 

OCT. 

Visit to Sartoris family at Southampton 2-15 

Banqueted at Dirmingham. lO 

Departiu-e for Paris 24 

Arrival at Paris 25 

Call upon President MacMahon 26 

Visited bv the Count de Paris and the Duchess of Magenta.. 27 

Grand Banquet at Minister Noyes' _. 29 

NOV. 

Dined by President MacMahon i 

Banqueted by American residents in Paris 6 

Feted by Mrs. "Bonanza" Mackay 21 

DEC. 

Visit to Lyons, France 2 

Visit to Marseilles - 3 

Visit to Genoa 15 

Visit to Naples 17 

Meeting with Prince Alfred, the Duke of Edinburg, at Malta.. 28 

JAN., 1878. 

Arrival at Alexandria, Egypt 5 

Arrival at Cairo - -. 7 

Visited by the Khedive of Egypt — 8 

Departure for trip up the Nile 16 

FEB 

The Holy Land reached at Jaffa 10 

Reception at Jerusalem 13 

MARCH. 

Arrival at Constantinople 3 

Banqueted by the British Minister to Turkey 4 

Banqueted by the King of Greece 13 

APRIL. 

State dinner by King Humbert of Italy at Rome 15 

Florence visited - .- 20 

Venice reached — .- 23 

MAY. 

Arrival at Turin -- 5 

Visited Paris Exposition lo 

Visited by President MacMahon and the Duchess of Magen- 
ta, Prince Hassan of Egypt, Prince Albert and Prince Fred- 
eric of Austria, Prince and Princess of Denmark 14 

JUNE. 

Dined by Prince Orloff, Russian Minister to Paris 3 

Dejeuner at the Hague with H. R. H. Prince Frederick, uncle 

of King of Holland 6 

Dined by the Burgomasters of Rotterdam 8 

Grand banquet at Amsterdam 12 



486 



CHRONOLOGICAL. 



Arrival at Berlin 26 

Interview with Prince Bismarck ... 27 

Special audience with the Crown-Prince of Germany 27 

JULY. 

Reception by King Oscar of Norway and Sweden at Christi- 
ana 13 

Banquet at Stockholm 24 

Arrival at St. Petersburg 30 

Visited by Prince Gortschakoff 31 

AUG. 

Audience with the Czar 1 

Formal interview with the Czar 4 

Dinner with Prince Dogaroff at Moscow 10 

Audience with the Emperor of Austria 19 

Dinner with the Austrian Imperial family .. 21 

Dined by the citizens of Zurich, Switzerland . 23 

OCT. 

Dined by Minister Noyes at Paris 3 

Interview with ex-President Castelar of Spain at San Sebas- 
tian - . - 9 

Interview with King Alfonso -. 13 

Arrival at Madrid 16 

NOV. 

Dinner -with King Louis of Portugal i 

Breakfast with the Due de Montpensier at Madrid 9 

Dinner with Lord Napier of Magdala, at Gibraltar i& 

TAN., 1879. 
Arrival at Dublin, Ireland, and presented with freedom of the 

city 3 

Feted at Londonderry 6 

Reception at Belfast ._ 9 

State dinner and reception by President MacMahon at Paris 14 

Arrived at Marseilles. 21 

Sailed for India 22 

FEB. 

Arrival at Bombay 13 

State dinner and reception by the acting Governor at Bombay 17 

Visit to the Maharajah of Jaypore 20 

Visit to the Maharajah of Burtpoor 24 

Visit to Delhi 26 

Arrival at Calcutta, and banquet by Lord Lytton, Viceroy of 

India -- — 2S 

MARCH. 

Visit to British Burmah 23 

AP^'IL. 

Visit to Singapore .... I 



CHRONOLOGICAL. 487 

Entertained bv the King of Siam 14 

Arrival at Saigon, Cochin China 25 

Arrival at Hong Kong 30 

MAY. 

State dinner at tlie Government House 3 

Arrival at Hong Kong and entertained by the Viceroy 6 

Reception of a deputation of Chinese 7 

Arrixal at Shanghai 19 

Interview with the Viceroy, Li-Hung Chang, at Tientsin 24 

JUNE* 

Arrival at Pekin. - — 3 

Interview with Prince Kung, Regent of China 5 

Arri\-al at Nagasaki, Japan 2i 

State dinner by Governor of the Province 23 

Banqueted by Nagasaki citizens 24 

JULY. 

Tokio visited 3 

Grand Reception by the Emperor of Japan __ 4 

Banquet by the Emperor of Japan. 7 

Visit to Yokohama 9 

Visit to Shrine of lyeyasu 17 

AUG. 

Private conversation with the Emperor of Japan ic 

SEPT. 

Departure from Yokohama 3 

Arrival at San Francisco.. 20 

NOV. 

Arrival at Galena. 5 

Arrival at Chicago - 12 



Catalogue of Our Publications. 

^UB3CF(IPTI0N AND JhJ^DE ^OOK^. 



General U. S. Grant's Tour Around the World. 

Edited by L. T. Rtmlap, {Palmer.) 

Contains a full and accurate description of General Grant's 
Tour; the receptions, both public and private, tendered him ; 
addresses of welcome — his responses; his conversations with 
public men, and a full description of entcrtninments, gossip, 
etc.; also receptions on the Pacific Coast, and the unprecedented 
series of receptions at Chicago, November 12th to 20th, inclu- 
sive. Elegantly illustrated. One large quarto volume, 500 
pages. Fifteenth thousand ready November 20, 1879. The 
only book on the General's Tour printed in English and 
German. 

Cloth, Back and Side in Black and Gold $2' 00 

" Gilt Edges, Back and Side in Black and Gold 2 50 

Popular edition. Paper cover 1 25 

Leaders of Our Church Universal, t^m the succes- 
sors of the Apostles to the (ieneration just departed. A " Book 
of Saints," from the Evangelical staud point. Comprising 
EARLIER leaders, latkr leaders in Europe, America, AsIm, Africa 
and Occanica, by Dr. Ferdiuind Piper, of Gernuiny; and Dr. 
Henry McCracken, of America. Tiie reader is carried along 
with glowing interest throuirli the five successive periods. — 
"The Church's Spread in tin- SmiuIi," " in ilic North :"' "The 
Ciiiirch's Centralizaticin;" •'The Church's rvclbnuation," and 
" The Church's Reformed Progress." 

Tlic names of the European writers arc of the most eminent: 
Tholuck, Kruinmaclier, Neander, Ilagenhach, Van Ooslerzce (of 
Holland), 1-eciilcr, I.orimer (England), MacCrie (Engbmd), 
Monod (Paris), witli more tirm a (-core of others hardly 
bcliind these in eminence and world wide reputation. ij 

Tlie following is the comiileie roll of American wrilcrs: 
Dr. II. C. Alexander, Dr. Ili^lurt Beard, Dr. C. W. Bennett, Dr. 



i: 






W. M. Blackburn, Dr. S. L. Caldwell, Dr. Rufus W. Clark, Mrs. 

Helen Finney Cox, Dr. Timothy Dwight, Dr. J. H. Goode, Dr. 

Lewis Grout, Dr. Arch. A. Hodge, Dr. Samuel Hopkins, Dr. Z. 

H. Humphrey, Dr. J. B. Jeter, Dr. Herrick Johnson, Mrs. 

Helen Kendrick, Dr. D. R. Kerr, Dr. Heman Lincoln, Dr. 

Henry MacCracken, Dr. J. M. Pendleton, D. W. K. Pendleton, 

Prof. B. F. Prince, Bp. W. Bacon Stevens, Mrs. Harriet B. 

»; Stowe, Dr. Thomas 0. Summers, Bp. J. Weaver, Dr. A. Webster, 

I Dr. Thomas AVebster, S. Wells Williams, LL. D., Bp. R. Yeakel, 

.{i representing the fourteen denominations. 

'. Four appendices are added. Appendix IIT. is a "Table of 

Statistics of our Church Universal by Denominations and 
Countries." Appendix IV. is an "Index of One Thousand 
Biographical illustrations contained in the Lives, for the use 
of the Preacher and of the Teacher in the Sabbath-school." 
This will prove exceedingly valuable. 

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ness and Heaven, ^p J- J'- ^«^««' -•!• -'^• 

The design of this work is a harmonious combination of sub- 
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\ 



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Tlie work contains nearly forty chapters — on as many sub- 
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Rev. John Gordon, Rev. T. B. Stevenson, and many others. 

176 pages, 16mo. paper covers 50. 

aoth 76 

The Bible and Sunday-School.— Edited by Rev. w. f. 

Crafts. It contains Outline Lectures, " Bible Readings," and 
Addresses by Lyman Abbott, D. D.; Rev. Henry Ward Beecher, 
Richard Newton, D. D.; Rev. W. F. Crafts, Mrs. W. F. Crafts, 
C. H. Payne, D. D.; H. W. Warren, D. D.; P. P. Bliss, Miss 
Jennie B. Merrill, Rev. J. L. Hurlbut, Rev. H. M. Parsons, 
Miss Frances E. Willard, Miss M. E. Winslow, M. C. Hazard, 
Esq.; A. 0. Van Lennep, Charles M. Morton, D. L. Moody, 
Ralph Wells, E. 0. Haven, D. D.; J. H. Vincent, D. D.; and 
others. 

These Outline Lectures are arranged in a form suitable for a 
Regular Course of Normal Class^Study, or for personal study. 
The divisions are as follows: 
1— THE BIBLE, THE WORD OP GOD. 

2-THE BIBLE AND ITS STUDENTS. 

3-THE BIBLE AND ITS TEACHINGS. 
4— THE BIBLE AN::^ CHILDHOOD. 
5-TUE B IB LE AND APPLIANCES. 

6-THE BIBLE AND THE WORLD. 

171 pages, 16mo. paper cover 50 

Cloth 75 

The Coming IV?an is the Present Child; or. 
Childhood the Text-Book of the Age. 

By Rec. W. F. Crafts. 

The following points about the book make it specially attractive: 

1. It has a Score of Beautiful Eng-ravings of child life, most 
of them copied from famous sculpture and paintings in great 
galleries of Europe, collected especially for this book. Tkese 
pictures will greatly interest Parents, Artists, and Teachers. 

2. The book has short, characteristic events from the child- 
hood of Jiftg great men, with pictures accompanj'ing, which will 
also attract the interest not only of Barents and Teachers, but 
also of the Bogs themselves. 

3. The book has numerous incidents of child life, short, bright, 
amusing things. This feature will greatly interest all educators, 
while it amuses the general reader. A " Childhood' Diction* 
ary," containing 100 cute definitions from, thelips ofCtuidxoa, 
is a point of inieresi in the book. 



7 



4. The theoretical portion of the book (12 chapters) discuss 
the relations of Cliildhood to the age, to science, to tempera7ice, to 
educatim, to religion, etc., each chapter commending itself to 
p stars, parents, teachers, and all lovers of childhood. 
Paper covers, 156 pages, 16 Illustrations, price. 60 

Instincts and Incidents of Childhood. 

By Hev. W. F. CrafU. 

This little volume gives in a scientific "Caliinot " four hundred 
"specimens" of the sayings and doings of cliildren, arranged as 
if upon "Shelves" and in 'Cases" under the seven instincts of 
childhood as discovered by Froebel, and made familiar through 
the Kindergarten System. The incidents will be found not only 
instructive to students of human nature, but highly amusing 
and interesting to all classes of readers. 
115 pages, 5 Illustrations. Paper covers 40 

Lessons for Little Folks. For Home and Sunday-School. 
Including S -ngs and Keciiations, also Thoughts for Older Folks. 
By Mrs. V. J. Kent. 

This book contains attractive material for use in Primary 
Classes, and is suitable as a help for Teachers, and also as a 

gift for children. 174 pages. Paper 50 

Cloth 75 

Nail Heads, or Helps for Primary Teachers. 

Y^y Mrs. George Partridge, with an introduction by J. Bennet 
Tyler. 

Commendation from a S. S. worker. "Let me speak a word to 
the Primary Teachers about that excellent book, 'IS'ail Heads,' 
by Mrs. George Partridge. It is a little book, not expensive, 
and contnius, in my opinion, the best help, outside of the 
Bible, that a primary teacher can find. I have used it in my 
class with great satii-faclion. The books are so few that really 
aid in the work, that I hasten to give my testimony in regard 
to tills, and hope that you will each secui-e a copy. One needs 
only to examine it to sec that it was prepared by a worker, 
and contains only that will help. Its simplicity and direct- 
ness are very marked. Mrs. G. R. Aldicn ('Pansy'), 

"New Hartford, N. Y." 

Clolh, limp 85 

Handsomely hound, tinted paper 60 

From Earth to Heaven. By ^4. p. Graves, d. d. 

Mr. Graves has made this book to enlarge his Evangelistic use- 
fulness. It contains a sketch of his life, a fine steel-plate en- 
graving of liiniHflf, many of his most vahiahlc revival sermons 
and Bible Readings, and several imporlimi rcforni pnjier.s. In 
jts size, newrly ."..'JO pages, it is woi'th $1 :><), but to put it in 
tlie reach of all the people, the price is put down to 1 00 



Down Grade. ^ ^^ok to save tempted young men. A. P. 
Graves, D. D. 5th thousand now ready. 

Cloth 60 

Twenty-five Letters to a Young Lady. J^st pub- 
lished. A. r. Grilles, D. D. 
Cloth 60 

Sermons for Boys and Girls, ^«''- J- o. MerriiL 

(Just publithed.) 

160 pages. Qoth , ~ 76 

Hints on Bible Marking. By Mrs. Stephen ifemes, with 
preface by D. L. Moody. 

32 pages, sq. 18mo. Paper 15 

Paper, per dozen 1 25 

How to Study the Bible. By D.L.Moody. 

A valuable little work, which should be carefully read and 
studied by all who desire to enjoy the study of the Word. 

Paper cover ~ 15 

" " per dozen 1 25 

A Dictionary of Scripture Proper Names. ^'^^^ 

their pronunciation and explanation. 

Cloth 26 

Froggy's Little Brother. By Brenda. 

A Temperance Tale ior Children, handsomely lUuBtrated, 

294 pages 1 26 

Th© Little Captain. — a Temperance Tale. — By Lynde Palmer. 

Illustrated, 131 pages 60 

25 Sermons to Children.— By Rev. J. g. Merrill. 

70 pages, paper cover 25 

Our Christmas Gift.— By ii/rs. v. J. Kent. 

Handsomely printed in Blue and Red, tied together with 

Blue Ribbons ^ 25 



A Neat, Clean, Air-tight, Fountain Pen, 

Can be carried in the Pocket with perfect safety. Holds 

sufficient ink lor Twenty-lour Hours Continuous 

Writing. 

^. T. Cross' Fatents. 

October 6, iSbS; April lo, 1S77; ^^^y ^i i877; June 12, 1S77; 
January, 20, 1S78. 

The Pen is very simple in its construction, and is easily under- 
stood and managed, and if thoroughly understood requires but little 
attention or care. Never allow any one to meddle with your Pen 
who does not understand it. 

N. B. — Should the needle become brnt by accident so as to prevent its 
working freely, it can be straightened by rolling it between two flat smooth 
surfaces with slight pressure. If you fail to put it in order, return the Pen 
to the address below. If you should break the filler, ask your druggist for 
a medicine dropper. If any part of your pen is lost or injured at any time, 
send it to us by registered parcel, in a small paste-board box, with your name 
and address plainly written across one end of the wrapper, enclosing twelve 
cents to pav return postage and registration fees, and we will return it in 
good order at as slight cost as possible. 

1=1^ ICE XjIST- 

The numbers indicate the Style of the Stylographic Pen as follows: 

Net. 

No. I, Gold Mounted, 6 inches long-, Solid Iridium ( I")i;im()nd ) Point $5 00 

No, 2, " " 4'/^ " " " " 4 SO 

No. 3, Chased, 6 " " " " 4 5° 

No. 4, " 4/^ " " " " 400 

No. 5, Gold Mounted, 6 " Iridium Alloy, " 400 

No. 6, " " 4'/^ " " " " 3 5° 

No. 7, Chased, 6 " " " " 3 5° 

N0.8, " 4K " " " " 300 

N. B. — Positively the Gold used in mounting the Stylographic Pens is 18 
carats fine. Pure native Iridium is absolutely indestructilile, and each solid 
Iridium ( Diamond ) point, is hereby warranted for the term of three years. 

J. FAIRBANKS & CO. 



University of California 

SOUTHERN REGIONAL LIBRARY FACILITY 

305 De Neve Drive - Parking Lot 17 • Box 951388 

LOS ANGELES, CALIFORNIA 90095-1388 

Return this material to the library from which it was borrowed. 




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